Hitch Pin vs. Grade 8 bolt

[YellowDogSVC]

Since this is for heavy equipment and a 12k trailer, I wanted to post it here.

My slide in 2.5" receiver feels sloppy and has some movement with my 5/8" locking pin. I wanted to switch that out for a grade 8 bolt that I could tighten down and try and take out some of the rattle. Is this a good idea or an unsafe idea? I figured the heat treated pin was no stronger than a grade 8 bolt but am I misinformed?

Thanks!

[Jason Rose]

I bought one of those hitch carrier racks for my snow blower, it uses a bolt instead of a pin to keep the rack solid on the hitch.

Theirs has a large square "nut" with a spring welded to it that goes inside the tube of the rack (just like the removable hitch). The spring is just there for friction to hold it in place so you can get the bolt through it. It's a special made bolt (though you could fab the same thing) it's somewhat pointed on the end to aid in alignment and it has a hole for your usual spring pin at the end of the threads. Just tighten it down and it sucks the hitch up tight with one side of the receiver. Seems to work good.

Lol. Spent all that effort describing it when I could have just googled it. You can buy them, but I'd look for a better price than this... This is what I'm talking about though:
http://hitches4less.com/clasiiisilhi.html

[Gravel Rat]

The only time you would sheer a grade 8 bolt is if its really sloppy and the receiver insert really flops around. You will oval out the holes in the hitch before you break a bolt.

[bobcat_ron]

Even stainless bolts are good, the non-magnetic types only.

[YellowDogSVC]

After posting, I found this thread on another site:

http://thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?p=689868#post689868

[minimax]

YellowDog,I have made the hitch tighter by build up the ball hitch tube with weld and then grind to fit.You only have to build up two sides.I did this on the hitch we use for my dump trailer and my big mud flaps.A hitch will wear like any thing else!
minimax