View Full Version : Lets talk about buildings for equipment
all ferris
02-28-2009, 05:06 PM
What is the most economical building right these days...pole barn, stick built, all steel, the ever popular kwansit hut????
I'm considering building a 40x64 (that's feet for you Canadians) and I want ideas. I like the "energy mizer" Cleary has http://www.clearybuilding.com/Media/Media.php?mov=cbc0701_12energy.wmv I have also considered a steel building. I have no idea what the pricing is????
If you were going to build what features would you include? I like the idea of white steel on the inside to brighten things up. Currently, I have a 32x40 and I like it but it's too small.
BTW- I'm kidding about the kwansit hut
stuvecorp
02-28-2009, 06:17 PM
What is the most economical building right these days...pole barn, stick built, all steel, the ever popular kwansit hut????
I'm considering building a 40x64 (that's feet for you Canadians) and I want ideas. I like the "energy mizer" Cleary has http://www.clearybuilding.com/Media/Media.php?mov=cbc0701_12energy.wmv I have also considered a steel building. I have no idea what the pricing is????
If you were going to build what features would you include? I like the idea of white steel on the inside to brighten things up. Currently, I have a 32x40 and I like it but it's too small.
BTW- I'm kidding about the kwansit hut
Quonset's are awesome.:laugh:, put one over two shipping containers and you are golden. A pole building is probably the cheapest, are you putting a floor in? If you are sometimes it can be cheaper to build stick frame. Steel usually doesn't come in until you are over 70-80' wide.
My perfect size would be 50x120 with at east one 25' lean on one side.
NEUSWEDE
02-28-2009, 06:18 PM
I built a 24x40 pole barn last year. Very easy to build and I like how it is simple to add onto it to make it bigger. It was a great way for me to build it myself save some money and have something great to start out with. Haven't insulated it but plan to this year after adding onto the building as I have run out of room.
IMAGE
02-28-2009, 06:33 PM
i built a small 24L x 24W x 13H a couple yrs ago, and the cheapest for me was a pole barn style with galvanized steel outside and roof. I did set it on a heated slab and finished the interior with R19 also. total cost was under 8k including running a 100amp service line and having all plywood walls and a small loft. With a 10 x 10 commercial insulated door also. I still need to paint, hang ceiling lights, and hook up a water heater, so probally another $500 or so. I barely use it though so it hasnt been a priority. Maybe this summer it'll get finished lol.
I like the pole barn style building. Easy to build, easy to insulate. Some suggestions I would make. I would put the electricity in exposed conduit. Make sure you have enough service to power whatever you need now and in the future. Much easier to add boxes or to hard wire air compressors and what ever. The more boxes around the perimeter the better, never can have to many. Makes sure your eve height is sufficient for whatever long term plans you may have. I have a 14' eve height which is sufficient for the class 8 trucks as long as the stack isn't too long. I can also tuck my 160 inside.
Consider how you plan on heating it. Floor heat works well for me, but whatever I would work that out before you build, especially since floor heat needs to go in the concrete. Get an electric overhead door insulated upfront. I would not waste time with sliding doors. Put ballards in at the doors. good luck
bobcat_ron
02-28-2009, 06:46 PM
A tarp with 4 2x4's would work for me, collapse the tarp over the machine and store the 2x4's under the machine. Sometimes you need to think like IKEA.
NateV
02-28-2009, 08:47 PM
Doesnt anyone build out of block anymore??
IMAGE
02-28-2009, 09:08 PM
Doesnt anyone build out of block anymore??
Not around here. But poured sub walls are very common. 4'-5' poured and then build a stick wall on top i see that alot.
ford550
02-28-2009, 09:18 PM
I built a 40'w x 75'l x 14'h (inside to rafters) pole building w/ 2-12'x12' oh doors. Paid $27,000 (installed) in '05. 6" concrete floor (paid $5,600 (concrete only) in '05). It's not insulated or heated yet but it will be soon. What ever size you are thinking, double it. It's never big enough. I am out of room with mine. Its the building behind the trucks :)
all ferris
02-28-2009, 11:00 PM
I like the pole barn style building. Easy to build, easy to insulate. Some suggestions I would make. I would put the electricity in exposed conduit. Make sure you have enough service to power whatever you need now and in the future. Much easier to add boxes or to hard wire air compressors and what ever. The more boxes around the perimeter the better, never can have to many. Makes sure your eve height is sufficient for whatever long term plans you may have. I have a 14' eve height which is sufficient for the class 8 trucks as long as the stack isn't too long. I can also tuck my 160 inside.
Consider how you plan on heating it. Floor heat works well for me, but whatever I would work that out before you build, especially since floor heat needs to go in the concrete. Get an electric overhead door insulated upfront. I would not waste time with sliding doors. Put ballards in at the doors. good luck
What are ballards??? Are those the steel pipes filled with concrete things you see at gas stations?
My current shed is stick built, fully insulated, OSB on the interior walls (which I wish I would have painted white), concrete floor, 10' wall height (which is far too short), and a insulated garage door (16x8). My shed is currently big enough to work in but it could be taller and I need more room to store equipment.
I was thinking if I build a 40x64 I would have it in 2 sections. I think I would put a wall right through the middle so I would have one 40x32 insulated and concrete floor and the other 40x32 uninsulated with rock floor for just parking equipment. I would also have 3 overhead doors at least 16x12 to go in both sides of the shed and to pass through the shed.
all ferris
02-28-2009, 11:06 PM
And on any buildings with high ceilings I would recommend ceiling fans.
Gravel Rat
03-01-2009, 05:18 AM
You want the tallest ceiling height as possible. To save some money start looking around for used building materials like large wood beams etc.
A conventional pitched roof is the cheapest a flat roof your looking at some dollars for tar and gravel.
Votum Gardens LLC
03-01-2009, 07:15 AM
You might want to look at the Hoop structures by FarmTec. I've seen at least five of them go up in the last year vs one pole barn. I don't know if it's stick built or steel, never saw it go up. It's just not farmers who are using the Hoop, two landscapers and an excavator are also using them for cold storage.
RockSet N' Grade
03-01-2009, 09:12 AM
I have owned or built them all. I have built tilt-ups, solid grout concrete block, stick frame, metal pole barn, quonset hut.......yada, yada. I currently have a pole barn and quonset. Stick to a building that has vertical sides whatever you do. Rounded sides give you less usable space - can't build shelving, can't park a truck next to them and they are expensive to insulate, difficult to run electrical.......just a general pita. Whatever you choose, choose vertical sides with height! Whatever you want to do with the shell after that is your choice, but choose the right shell system first.
bobcat_ron
03-01-2009, 10:42 AM
Bollards are the steel pipes filled with concrete that keep old people from hitting the gas instead of the brake when they park and giving your building a premature renovation.
YellowDogSVC
03-01-2009, 11:05 AM
i think the pole barn concept would be most economical. Down south, I don't have to worry too much about insulation. I have an enclosed shop next to a large pole barn that is enclosed on the back but open on the front. It is over a slab. Works out very good other than leaves blowing in during the winter due to it facing north. I have a gravel wash bash that is to the right of the building outside the picture and I keep my attachments to front left of the enclosed part of the structure. I keep my tools, chainsaws, a refrigerator, etc., inside the shop that also doubles as a place for some of our ranch tools.
It was originally a useless buildling set up similar to the enclosed section but it leaked, had two gaping holes where doors were never installed so we cut it in half, demolished it and reused materials we could salvage. Since I had an existing slab, it was easy to decide on the tall pole barn. I can park a truck, 18' trailer, or just about anything else under there and still have room to work.
RockSet N' Grade
03-01-2009, 11:59 AM
YellowDog.........and you have included one of the most important components of any barn........a refrigerator! I've been kicked out (or should I say overrun) of my garage, my pole barn and now use the quonset hut as "mine" - until she decides to put her stuff in that too! A nice chair and fridge make any structure you put up "home".
YellowDogSVC
03-01-2009, 12:12 PM
RockSet.. I have been quite lazy about fixing up the shop since my folks, my wife, and even the kids store a little crap in it. I started with a few posters, an American Flag, and some signage hanging on the inside walls. I have a chair and a fridge but don't spend that much time there. Something is missing. I think it is music or a t.v. It just doesn't feel homey enough so I do my repairs or load up for the next day and go the 200 yards back to my house. I did put some goldfish over there in the cow water tank and that gives me something to do. I have been wanting to put a picnic table or at least a bench and some bird feeders. The cows hang out there occasionally and the goats come to visit but it still doesn't feel homey enough to spend more time there than I do in front of the computer at home. I guess having 3 kids and 6 dogs makes home feel more alive than the shop!
mrsops
03-01-2009, 05:54 PM
Pic of my shop before i painted it up last year. I'm having the same problem for about the last 2 months not being able to decide on what kind of building i want to put behind this one.
Bollards are the steel pipes filled with concrete that keep old people from hitting the gas instead of the brake when they park and giving your building a premature renovation.
Or dumbass employees which are much like old people.
bearmtnmartin
03-02-2009, 01:03 AM
I have one of those farmtec buildings. Its a 30 X 48 clearspan. I had it in my yard for 8K including freight, and it took me and my operator 2 weeks to set up, between jobs. I put it on a 10 inch high footing, and anchored the hell out of it, because we do get the wind out here. It came with a 12X12 roll up door and a steel mandoor. I have 200 amp power now, and a concrete floor is on the way. I am sheeting the inside with roofing steel, just in case some waste of skin decides to make a visit some night. So I have a nice shop with a 16 foot ceiling, and my investment will be about 14K when the floor is done. I bought it as a stop gap until I could afford a new shop, but after I put it up I decided it was good enough that it would probably do me for quite a while.
dirtybiz
03-02-2009, 06:38 PM
What is the most economical building right these days...pole barn, stick built, all steel, the ever popular kwansit hut????
I'm considering building a 40x64 (that's feet for you Canadians) and I want ideas. I like the "energy mizer" Cleary has http://www.clearybuilding.com/Media/Media.php?mov=cbc0701_12energy.wmv I have also considered a steel building. I have no idea what the pricing is????
If you were going to build what features would you include? I like the idea of white steel on the inside to brighten things up. Currently, I have a 32x40 and I like it but it's too small.
BTW- I'm kidding about the kwansit hut
I am building a 40*64 right now w/ a 12*64 lean-to on each side (pic's soon) w/ 16' sidewalls on the main building. Pole buildings were quite a bit cheaper than stick built when i priced them out, and never considered steel.
I had a bid from Cleary to put my shop up (did not go w/them) for $63k. Mine is a bit more materials/labor (twice as many posts) and a bit bigger (basicly 64*64). I would think you could get a 40*64 from them in the $40's. This all depends on hom far you are going to have them go w/it (insulation, etc....). I also got a quite from Morton Buildings (better quality IMHO) but they were about 20k higher than Cleary!!
I ended up going w/a local contractor who was willing to work w/me and put a couple of my guys to work for the next month or so helping. Plus he has done business w/us so i figured it's only fair to give it back when we can! I will post pic's, as they are concreting the posts in tomorrow!!
I am building a 40*64 right now w/ a 12*64 lean-to on each side (pic's soon) w/ 16' sidewalls on the main building. Pole buildings were quite a bit cheaper than stick built when i priced them out, and never considered steel.
I had a bid from Cleary to put my shop up (did not go w/them) for $63k. Mine is a bit more materials/labor (twice as many posts) and a bit bigger (basicly 64*64). I would think you could get a 40*64 from them in the $40's. This all depends on hom far you are going to have them go w/it (insulation, etc....). I also got a quite from Morton Buildings (better quality IMHO) but they were about 20k higher than Cleary!!
I ended up going w/a local contractor who was willing to work w/me and put a couple of my guys to work for the next month or so helping. Plus he has done business w/us so i figured it's only fair to give it back when we can! I will post pic's, as they are concreting the posts in tomorrow!!
Morton builds a great building, but they sure are proud of them. Its always good to throw work back at the guys that feed you. It more than comes back to you.
dirtybiz
03-02-2009, 08:11 PM
Yeah, the sales rep took me to a shop they had built, and i was impressed, but, if money only grew on trees. I have no doubt mine will be just as nice w/out the hefty price tag.
Construct'O
03-02-2009, 11:57 PM
When i build mine it is going to have shop in one end,with office and living corders in the other end:)
dirtybiz
03-13-2009, 11:58 AM
Not to jack this thread, but here is what we are doing:
We are in the process of putting up a 40*64 w/2-12'*64 lean to's. One side will be enclosed w/a garage door at one end to back equip. in for winter storage. On the other side 1/2 will be office/bathroom/meeting room, and the other 1/2 will be open from side to put attachments/bobcats under during summer months. We are really looking forward to getting it finished.
Right now we have all the posts in and set and rafters for one of the lean to's up. Next week we hope to have the rest of the rafters up, trusses up, and ready to start framing!
Trying to decide what to go with for the ceiling of the main shop right now, sheet rock or steel?? Anyone have any input here? Looks like steel would cost about 1k more. If anyone has any ideas that they did @ their shop that i should consider, i would love to hear input, as this is the first shop i have had built. Thanks!
Junior M
03-13-2009, 12:01 PM
Nice, take some more pics as you finish it Dirty, and as far as the ceiling, I'd go metal so you could wash it, it will get dusty and dirty and drywall will be hard to clean..
riverwalklandscaping
03-13-2009, 03:39 PM
Pic of my shop before i painted it up last year. I'm having the same problem for about the last 2 months not being able to decide on what kind of building i want to put behind this one.
what did u steal the awning from the shereton ?
bearmtnmartin
03-13-2009, 04:01 PM
Trying to decide what to go with for the ceiling of the main shop right now, sheet rock or steel?
A friend put up a big shop last year and he used aluminiun soffiting for the ceiling. He figured that was the cheapest way to go.
mrsops
03-13-2009, 04:35 PM
what did u steal the awning from the shereton ?
:laugh: That is my initial of my last name
dirtybiz
03-23-2009, 07:43 PM
shop update from last week, trusses are up, and sheeting is on all of the roof now, almost ready for tin
bobcat_ron
03-23-2009, 07:46 PM
That's what we call a bunker and 2 lean-to's!
Is that a NH I see in the backround? Your getting closer to Power Tan.:weightlifter:
stuvecorp
03-23-2009, 08:13 PM
Looking good, Dirty.
dirtybiz
03-23-2009, 08:58 PM
Is that a NH I see in the backround? Your getting closer to Power Tan.:weightlifter:
HaHa, not even close to mine! I told the contractor that it was a bobcat and bobcat only zone :nono:!
all ferris
03-23-2009, 09:41 PM
Not to jack this thread, but here is what we are doing:
Jack away....I want to see your shed finished!
Junior M
03-23-2009, 09:44 PM
Is that a NH I see in the backround? Your getting closer to Power Tan.:weightlifter:
Ha! Its true, you really can spot s#it from a mile away! :laugh: :laugh:
dirtybiz
03-24-2009, 08:12 PM
Today's pic's: Trusses are up, sheeting is on roof, and framing is happening on front and rear walls to finish enclosing structure. Windows showed up today! It's actually startin to look like a building, i cant wait!!
Had to throw in a pic of the S300 w/vts as i was cleaning up a bunch of downed trees/branches today, to show ksss that i am not going yellow or tan!!! I did not get any pic's in action, but i was able to do alot of cleanup in just the few hours i had today!
Junior M
03-24-2009, 08:14 PM
not to hijack this thread any farther, but how are you liking the VTS now that you've had a little time with it?
I had mine in deep mud yesterday, powerwashing it out was not a lot of fun. A lot of places for mud to collect. I had it packed tight. I am sure the CTL guys are used to that but I am not.
Junior M
03-24-2009, 08:53 PM
I had mine in deep mud yesterday, powerwashing it out was not a lot of fun. A lot of places for mud to collect. I had it packed tight. I am sure the CTL guys are used to that but I am not.
Its not fun, hey, thats another thing you havent posted pics of!
stuvecorp
03-24-2009, 08:58 PM
I had mine in deep mud yesterday, powerwashing it out was not a lot of fun. A lot of places for mud to collect. I had it packed tight. I am sure the CTL guys are used to that but I am not.
It does suck trying to clean, I have to clean mine from this weekend.
Dirty, are you only putting two windows on each side up top? I would recommend to put a window in each bay, never can have enough natural light. Will be a sweet building.
nnj18
03-24-2009, 09:12 PM
shop update from last week, trusses are up, and sheeting is on all of the roof now, almost ready for tin
wow thats gonna be a nice shop! whats that costing you if you dont mind??
Its not fun, hey, thats another thing you havent posted pics of!
Mine looks just like Stuve's (just with different numbers on the side) which is why I have not taken a picture of it and posted it. Once I get it out on more jobs I will take some pictures of it.
Sure wish the JD bucket I bought at auction for the VTS 440 was 80" instead of the 78" bucket that I bought. I was sure it was 78" wide at the auction. I am about 1.5" short (story of my life), I have tried every OEM in town to trade but no luck yet.
dirtybiz
03-24-2009, 09:24 PM
It does suck trying to clean, I have to clean mine from this weekend.
Dirty, are you only putting two windows on each side up top? I would recommend to put a window in each bay, never can have enough natural light. Will be a sweet building.
Yes just two big ones. I decided to go that route rather than 6-7 little ones. Don't worry the inside will be lit up like a christmas tree!
dirtybiz
03-24-2009, 09:27 PM
not to hijack this thread any farther, but how are you liking the VTS now that you've had a little time with it?
I really like them! Now that i have the side window stiffener kit in, no vibrations at all! I just got my 84" bucket on fri, so i haven't done much dirt work w/it yet. Other than the width, it is great. Still have yet to put on the bolts they made me for the tensioner so that i can hopefully fit on my bumper pull trailers :rolleyes:. Hopefully it will do the trick. Other than that, i wish i have 2 speed, but what can you do? Yes, cleaning them out is no fun at all, better be ready to get muddy!
all ferris
03-24-2009, 10:21 PM
not to hijack this thread any farther, but how are you liking the VTS now that you've had a little time with it?
Dirtybiz may jack my thread
Jr. may NOT jack my thread!!!!:angry:
Junior M
03-25-2009, 08:07 AM
Dirtybiz may jack my thread
Jr. may NOT jack my thread!!!!:angry:
Ah shucks, its a little late now! :laugh:
dirtybiz
03-30-2009, 07:52 PM
A couple more pic's as of fri. of last week. Ordered doors today, and steel should be here tomorrow. I can't wait! A couple of pic's of the cleaning/clearing of trees we did just adjacent to the shop as well.
dirtybiz
04-14-2009, 08:58 PM
Here's a few updated pic's of our shop under construction. We ran the pex in the floor and they poured the floor last week. The wainscoating is now up, exterior man doors are in, and office area is framed in. Now if the weather will cooperate so we can get the rest of the tin up!
JosephLawnCare
04-14-2009, 09:23 PM
Holy chit, that shop is sweet!!!
dozerman21
04-14-2009, 10:58 PM
Looks good dirtybiz.:clapping:
I have a couple of questions on the radiant floor heat...
Do you have to set the PEX on rebar or chairs so it "floats"?
Also, do you or anyone else have any idea on what a system like that costs, maybe on a per square foot basis, installed yourself.?
stuvecorp
04-15-2009, 01:04 AM
Dirty, you cheated. Using a pump on the concrete, that's too easy.:) Lookin good.Thumbs Up
Looks good dirtybiz.:clapping:
I have a couple of questions on the radiant floor heat...
Do you have to set the PEX on rebar or chairs so it "floats"?
Also, do you or anyone else have any idea on what a system like that costs, maybe on a per square foot basis, installed yourself.?
I can answer how I did it. I tied the PEX to the wire mesh that I laid
out on the floor. I used bricks to elevate the PEX into the upper half of the concrete. I paid about 3500 for the parts. I used my plumbing accounts to buy the components at wholesale prices. I then found a guy to help me design and put it together for cheap. I really like it, except when you need a lot of heat right now. Like when you have a vehicle or piece of equipment that is froze up. Other than that its sweet.
dozerman21
04-15-2009, 09:56 AM
I can answer how I did it. I tied the PEX to the wire mesh that I laid
out on the floor. I used bricks to elevate the PEX into the upper half of the concrete. I paid about 3500 for the parts. I used my plumbing accounts to buy the components at wholesale prices. I then found a guy to help me design and put it together for cheap. I really like it, except when you need a lot of heat right now. Like when you have a vehicle or piece of equipment that is froze up. Other than that its sweet.
It sounds like a nice set up. My problem is I have a big area to cover and I'll be pouring the floor in sections, starting with about 1/4 of it (hopefully) this summer. What method are you using to heat the lines? Just a water heater? I'm also considering one of those outdoor wood furnaces too.
jefftb
04-15-2009, 10:29 AM
I think companies that own equipment/trucks like most of us do here should run used oil furnance and/or boiler setups. I'm not lacking in the used oil department around here.......
It sounds like a nice set up. My problem is I have a big area to cover and I'll be pouring the floor in sections, starting with about 1/4 of it (hopefully) this summer. What method are you using to heat the lines? Just a water heater? I'm also considering one of those outdoor wood furnaces too.
I use a 75 gal. propane water heater. Although like JeffB says, I think waste oil burner is a good idea. I just bought a tank to store the oil in at a car dealership auction this Spring. I plan adding an oil burner as soon as I can justify the expense.
Actually Dozerman it may still work for you depending on how its laid out. Typically the in floor heat is divided into zones. The loops are continuous so each roll of PEX does not have a connector. We laid out the 300 feet or whatever it was and then brought it back to manifold, that was one zone. You could pour each zone one at a time. It may work for you. You might have a guy who does that in your area come help you design the system out. I would bet that you could find help with it on the Net somewhere. Its not rocket science, but the parts are expensive.
dirtybiz
04-15-2009, 01:12 PM
[QUOTE=dozerman21;2929975]Looks good dirtybiz.:clapping:
I have a couple of questions on the radiant floor heat...
Do you have to set the PEX on rebar or chairs so it "floats"?
Also, do you or anyone else have any idea on what a system like that costs, maybe on a per square foot basis, installed yourself.?[/QUOTE
We put the "bubble wrap" down first, then rebar set on chairs, then put the pex on top of the rebar and zip tied the crap out of it right to the rebar. Alot of guys just use rebar ties, but i did not have a gun, and found a good deal on zip ties so we went to town.
Mine ended up costing about $3k in materials including the insulation bubble wrap. We just did two zones, one for the shop, and one for the office. We built a manifold to tie all of the lines (300') together for the main shop area. I had a plumber friend come out and help us lay it out. Knowing what i know now, anyone can do it, the manifold, etc. is the hardest part. You just have to make sure all of your runs of pex for the zone are the same overall length.
For example we needed about 380' to cover our office area, so we had to run two lines of 190' plus a little extra for manifold since our rolls were 300'. Hope this helps. If you look around their are companies around that will help you w/the design/layout if you purchase the materials from them.
We had a blizzard here this morning, so i am sure not much will be happening on my shop today! :S Supposed to be 70 by the weekend though! :clapping:
dozerman21
04-15-2009, 01:32 PM
[QUOTE=dozerman21;2929975]Looks good dirtybiz.:clapping:
I have a couple of questions on the radiant floor heat...
Do you have to set the PEX on rebar or chairs so it "floats"?
Also, do you or anyone else have any idea on what a system like that costs, maybe on a per square foot basis, installed yourself.?[/QUOTE
We put the "bubble wrap" down first, then rebar set on chairs, then put the pex on top of the rebar and zip tied the crap out of it right to the rebar. Alot of guys just use rebar ties, but i did not have a gun, and found a good deal on zip ties so we went to town.
Mine ended up costing about $3k in materials including the insulation bubble wrap. We just did two zones, one for the shop, and one for the office. We built a manifold to tie all of the lines (300') together for the main shop area. I had a plumber friend come out and help us lay it out. Knowing what i know now, anyone can do it, the manifold, etc. is the hardest part. You just have to make sure all of your runs of pex for the zone are the same overall length.
For example we needed about 380' to cover our office area, so we had to run two lines of 190' plus a little extra for manifold since our rolls were 300'. Hope this helps. If you look around their are companies around that will help you w/the design/layout if you purchase the materials from them.
We had a blizzard here this morning, so i am sure not much will be happening on my shop today! :S Supposed to be 70 by the weekend though! :clapping:
Thanks for the info everybody. I am also considering the used oil route. I have one buddy that uses one in his barn, I think it's a Clean Burn burner. He likes it and the maintenance doesn't seem too bad. I don't go through that much used oil even if I store it all year, but I might be able to collect enough of it through other guys. I like the radiant heat but the cost and the fact that I'll need more "instant" type heat is why I'm probably leaning toward a used oil burner or outdoor wood furnace. I guess I have until about November to think about it!:cool2: It's been cold lately, but supposed to be around 70 here as well by Friday.
dirtybiz
04-15-2009, 03:00 PM
One of my good friends has one of those outdoor wood furnaces and uses it to heat his house and shop through radiant floor tubing. It takes alot of wood out here though to keep it going, as we don't have the hardwoods around here. He collects all year round, and by fall he has a massive heap of wood sitting around. In my opinion it's not worth the hassle, but again if you have equipment to move it around and easy, close access to hardwoods it might be. Just my .02.
When i get ready to hook up my tubing next fall (if finances allow) i am going to look into solar panels. Their was a shop not to far from here that put some on, and i talked to him and he said it was about 30k for the panels/tubing, install, etc..., but his shop/warehouse was about 3 times the size of mine as well. If i can do it for 10k, i would probably do it, and save $300/month in the winter.
We got hit as well, not as much snow as rain. Supposed to get up to another 4 inches of snow tonight. It just wont dry out.
dirtybiz
04-15-2009, 05:26 PM
We got hit as well, not as much snow as rain. Supposed to get up to another 4 inches of snow tonight. It just wont dry out.
That just means it's time to go snowmobiling again! Rode till the end of May around here last year. Might be a repeat.
dirtybiz
05-16-2009, 04:28 PM
Well, shop is finally pretty "close to done", for now anyhow. Here are some updated pic's. We are still waiting for power and gas from to be put in by the utility company (which is why it looks like a bomb went off still on the one side), and a little paint on the man doors, and a few electrical fixtures to be put up.
stuvecorp
05-16-2009, 04:33 PM
That is sweet. Bet you are enjoying it.:)
bobcat_ron
05-16-2009, 06:42 PM
I could go for that, gimme a large enough living space inside, and I could call it home and an office/work shop.
Junior M
05-16-2009, 06:44 PM
I could go for that, gimme a large enough living space inside, and I could call it home and an office/work shop.
Same here.. :cool2:
Dountman
05-16-2009, 08:15 PM
Oh man that's friggen Nice!
Ground Effects NH
05-16-2009, 08:24 PM
Thumbs Up Now that is a "MAN" cave. I'd be proud of that structure
YellowDogSVC
05-16-2009, 08:25 PM
Very nice. Well done. I could live there as well. Looks like a really nice fire station!
I'm jealous! :)
dirtybiz
05-19-2009, 09:34 PM
Thanks guys! I could live there if i was single as well. I was originally going to put a living quarters above (for foreman), and then i decided to go with 14' overhead doors and i really didn't want the building to have 20'+ sidewalls :S!
Now if i could only get some power. The power company around here is a joke. I gave them my money and contract over 2 months ago, and they told me they would be here the first or second week in may. Well, it's now the third week in may and i can't even get the biatch to call me back! I am about to buy a very big generator and tell them to screw themselves, lol!
I will take some pic's of the interior once we get it cleaned up.
cat320
05-19-2009, 09:57 PM
Well, shop is finally pretty "close to done", for now anyhow. Here are some updated pic's. We are still waiting for power and gas from to be put in by the utility company (which is why it looks like a bomb went off still on the one side), and a little paint on the man doors, and a few electrical fixtures to be put up.
Looks very nice.
stuvecorp
05-20-2009, 02:02 AM
Thanks guys! I could live there if i was single as well. I was originally going to put a living quarters above (for foreman), and then i decided to go with 14' overhead doors and i really didn't want the building to have 20'+ sidewalls :S!
Now if i could only get some power. The power company around here is a joke. I gave them my money and contract over 2 months ago, and they told me they would be here the first or second week in may. Well, it's now the third week in may and i can't even get the biatch to call me back! I am about to buy a very big generator and tell them to screw themselves, lol!
I will take some pic's of the interior once we get it cleaned up.
Do what my dad did, the power company was telling him they couldn't make it after they promised they could. He went and trenched it in, called them and told them it's ready and if anything falls in it's on them - the next day we had power. The power company was not too happy with him.
BIGBEN2004
05-20-2009, 08:47 AM
Do what my dad did, the power company was telling him they couldn't make it after they promised they could. He went and trenched it in, called them and told them it's ready and if anything falls in it's on them - the next day we had power. The power company was not too happy with him.
Or you could go push the pole over down the street and say a car ran into it and then when they come out say "Hay by the way my building still needs power ran to it". A little more dangerous and most definitely illegal but it could start to get their attention.:waving:
dirtybiz
05-20-2009, 05:30 PM
LOL :nono:
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