first app of spring questions

[jsf343]

Hello, I am looking for advice on first spring app. In the past I have waited until around mid April to lay a 21-7-14 4% iron it is a great way to get a good green up but I am not that excited with the growth (just a biit too much) so my question for those of you who really know your fertilizer formulations is this...

1. Is there something I can lay for a good green up, slower growth, but better root growth for the first part of spring? would something like an 18-8-18 (or that neighborhood) be good? Also can you lay a bit less and also lay a moss killer?I have some with moss issues, or is this almost an overload? (my guess is yes)

2. then very late spring go to the 21-7-14? I like it, just do not like the slightly quuicker growth especially early spring when it rains a lot.

thanks for your feedback, I appreciate it.

[RigglePLC]

Get a few soil tests. You probably don't need the phosphorus, and maybe you could get by with less potash. Now use less nitrogen and most of the problem is solved. Since growth in spring is rapid anyway--less nitrogen would probably work fine--or go with a very high slow release--say a 75 percent poly coated scu. Not sure about the moss problem. Crabgrass--do you need it?

[jsf343]

Get a few soil tests. You probably don't need the phosphorus, and maybe you could get by with less potash. Now use less nitrogen and most of the problem is solved. Since growth in spring is rapid anyway--less nitrogen would probably work fine--or go with a very high slow release--say a 75 percent poly coated scu. Not sure about the moss problem. Crabgrass--do you need it?

crab isn't too much of a problem, I run every yards turf as high as I can, mostly 3.5"-4" thicker, less weeds, less watering, etc. Probably don't need to tell any of you. As for the moss it is only on the shorter cut yards with a lot of shade. I have tried to keep the ph balanced the best I can with lime, it is just a problem every year for about 3 yards, so not too big of an issue.

As for soil tests do you know of a good on site tester, seems quicker and less $$$$. Maybe there aren't any good ones out there though I don't know.

[RigglePLC]

It is best to get a real soil test--by a major automated computer equiped lab. Be sure to tell them it is for turf. And collect the samples correctly. So you get good recommendations. And for even better results --get a "Tissue test" It analyzes the actual green tissue and can spot nitrogen deficiencies, problems of poor root uptake. The best soil lab: http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu6yP.atJsyABtu5XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=11itgu6nd/EXP=1236093711/**http%3a//www.al-labs-plains.com/Ph meter:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu99s96tJPlMA2OVXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=11qn605ci/EXP=1236093164/**http%3a//www.gemplers.com/shop/ph-meters

Or the cheapie(accuracy--not much): http://www.merrifieldgardencenter.com/products.php?openparent=147&pid=

[jsf343]

It is best to get a real soil test--by a major automated computer equiped lab. Be sure to tell them it is for turf. And collect the samples correctly. So you get good recommendations. And for even better results --get a "Tissue test" It analyzes the actual green tissue and can spot nitrogen deficiencies, problems of poor root uptake. The best soil lab: http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu6yP.atJsyABtu5XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=11itgu6nd/EXP=1236093711/**http%3a//www.al-labs-plains.com/Ph meter:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu99s96tJPlMA2OVXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=11qn605ci/EXP=1236093164/**http%3a//www.gemplers.com/shop/ph-meters

Or the cheapie(accuracy--not much): http://www.merrifieldgardencenter.com/products.php?openparent=147&pid=


hmm.. I will look into them. Thanks for the info.

[Smallaxe]

Low N to none is good for the early spring. Rapid growth means too much N.
I would go with Riggles' scenario, with the slow release or even make the switch to compost now, or milorganite later in the spring.

Too much water could cause the grass to yellow some, but it doesn't mean that once it dries out a bit, the N isn't still there.