seeding in spring

[fordnut]

I just got a new account,its a bed and breakfast in town. Its a very high profile place.There is mainly fescue and some weeds.The yard has filtered sunlight all day, no direct sun.My know that fall is the best time to plant,but my ? is do you think planting this time of year I would get decent results? I will be using a slit seeder. thanks

[Smallaxe]

To germinate the seed needs moisture and warmth. Some seeds also need light to germinate. That is what triggers the absorbtion of water into the caruncle.

Bango - the seed sprouts. The reason seed sprouts better in the summer and fall is because soil temps are alot higher. Especially in places like Wisconsin.
I seed anytime I need to - IF - there is steady water available, even July.

[grassman177]

yup, plenty of h2o and warth it will do fine. the concern is really if they are willing to water in the hot summer as well after establishment to keep the newer fine rooted seedlings alive. you also run the higher risk of fungus due to the young plants neeed more moisture which without they will fail

[Smallaxe]

I agree, overseeding can be risky with the older grass. But usually get germination in less than a week - and - be sure the blades are dry by 4pm.
The ground doesn't loose moisture after that time, due to the dew. [in most days]

[glfredrick]

Here is the text of an email I recieved from Dr. Powell, U of Kentucky Ag Department -- one of the turfgrass experts in this region.

First, my question:

Dr. Powell,
I am the Manager of Grounds for The Southern Baptist Theological Seminary in Louisville. Of course, like so many in Kentucky, we took a big hit on our turf from the drought years the past two years. We need to overseed in many areas, and time is a critical factor for us this year due to the campus celebrating the sesquicentennial of the seminary’s founding beginning in April.
How early can we begin this process without risk of loosing valuable seed due to ground moisture, cold temperatures, etc.?
Currently, our soil temps run between 37 and 40 degrees F across campus.

Dr. Powell's response:

The answer is ASAP. The seed and new seedlings will survive any late winter or early spring weather. If you seed now, it has a chance of germinating earlier - but probably not until mid to late March.

I would personally seed a turf type tall fescue and seed with some type of slit seeder. Even if most of the turf is bluegrass, the tall fescue will establish much better than bluegrass and will grow much better in the shade than bluegrass.

If you cannot slit seed, then you must find some way to scarify the surface soil , either with an aerifier, heavily weighed chain drag, disk with the coulters straight, etc.

With a slit seeder, you can calibrate to go over the lawn with about 1 lbs seed/1000sq ft for each pass, and preferably make 2 or 3 passes. If you can only make one pass, then I would first broadcast about 4 lbs of seed per 1000sq ft and follow with another one lb in the slit seeder.

Also, remember that when the seed germinates, you must fertilize the new seedlilngs. I would want a soil test, but without it, I would probably apply about 120 lbs per acre of urea (45-0-0).

A. J. Powell, Jr.
Extension Turfgrass Specialist
859-257-5606
ajpowell@uky.edu<mailto:ajpowell@uky.edu>

The urea application seems a bit hot for new seedlings to me, but otherwise his info appears sound, and it is what we are doing on an account that is also very high profile.

Additionally, I would probably mix in some annual rye (burns down once it gets hot, but greens up the lawn very quickly in early spring), and use a seed blend that has at least 5 varieties of mixed shade/semi-shade seed. The likelyhood of one seed making it is greatly increased.

[GracesLandscaping]

not arguing to that whatsoever but i would think THAT much N would burn the grass come summertime...