How soon to seed after Turf Conditioner/Crabgrass Prevent

[synapse88]

I live in Raleigh NC and about 3-4 weeks ago I put down some Crabgrass Prevent/Fertilizer product, along with some lime (had the soil tested and it was off)

Now that it's warming up I was wanting to put some seed down but didn't want to risk over fertilization with the starter fertilizer. How long should I wait between the prevent/turf conditioner and the starter fertilizer?

Also I'm kinda new to lawn care, are there any sites that have guides etc (by region) about general lawn care (when/how to seed etc)? I've found some great info on this site, but I was looking for a non-forum source for lawn info too.

Thanks!

[RAlmaroad]

At least 90 days maybe longer. What kind of turf are maintaining. The crabgrass preventer will fry the hair roots of any seed as well as the crabgrass. I'd wait till this fall to seed. Also the lime will take 3 or more months to break down to be beneficial to the turf. There is a great site:http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/ Hope this will help.
I know Raleigh well, attended NC State in the 70s, and have lots of friends still there.
Roy

[synapse88]

Thanks for the response! It's a fescue lawn, and is in pretty nice shape save for a number of dog spots.

So I should wait about 3 months after doing the pre-emergent before seeding? So I guess I'll have to wait until the fall then to seed. And I don't need to put anything else down on the lawn this spring or summer? The next fertilizer will be the starter fertilizer in the fall when I seed?

I'm going to try to fill in some the dog sports with that Scotts Patchmaster stuff to see how it works. Have you guys ever used that product?

[RAlmaroad]

Thanks for the response! It's a fescue lawn, and is in pretty nice shape save for a number of dog spots.

So I should wait about 3 months after doing the pre-emergent before seeding? So I guess I'll have to wait until the fall then to seed. And I don't need to put anything else down on the lawn this spring or summer? The next fertilizer will be the starter fertilizer in the fall when I seed?

I'm going to try to fill in some the dog sports with that Scotts Patchmaster stuff to see how it works. Have you guys ever used that product?

No matter what seed you put down now will be a waste of money as the pre-em will attack it. You could try to water those dog spots many times but that pre-em is there. I wouldn't do it. Apply some extra fertilize-10-10-10 (if you don't want to mow) or a better slow release Nitrogen from Anderson's or Lesco about three months from now. If you have some organic matter to overdress it, the grass will love it. Adding organic material like manure from HomeDepot will be great for the yard. It does not smell.

[synapse88]

No matter what seed you put down now will be a waste of money as the pre-em will attack it. You could try to water those dog spots many times but that pre-em is there. I wouldn't do it. Apply some extra fertilize-10-10-10 (if you don't want to mow) or a better slow release Nitrogen from Anderson's or Lesco about three months from now. If you have some organic matter to overdress it, the grass will love it. Adding organic material like manure from HomeDepot will be great for the yard. It does not smell.

So it would be ok to apply 10-10-10 about three months from now (June), then apply Starter Fertilizer when I seed in early September?

And I put down this organic material on top of the 10-10-10 or slow release when i fertilize in 3 months? What type of organic material should i get.

Thanks for all the info!

[RAlmaroad]

Firstly, did your pre-em have fertilize with it? If it did, what was the analysis (Numbers on the bag) like 18-5-18, etc.
Any grass loves organic material. I put it down in a form of liquid called Essentials Plus. However, it take a good pump to spray it. You can't really use a regular hand can. Do this: Go to Wal-Mart and buy 20-25 bags of cow manure. It does not smell, is free from seed as it has been heated high enough to kill the weed seed. Use gloves or a good shovel. It should be dry enough to spread over the yard fairly even. Throw it with a shovel until it is somewhere around 1/2, then take a tined rake, not leaf rake, and even it out with the back of the rake. Let the rain break it down. You can do this now. It will not burn the grass. Fescue is a forgiving grass and will fill in a lot of bare spots from the root system, especially if you have some of the creeping red fescue in the mix.
On those dog spots, add a little miracle grow if you have any or mix up just a little of that cow manure with water in a bucket and pour a little on it every week or so.

If your pre-em did not have fertilize with it, add the 10-10-10 now as well. Go by the label on the bag for now and a little less than bag rate in June as the heat will react with the Nitrogen and could burn.
Make sure the grass gets at least an inch of water a week. Preferable all at one time. Measure this with a large pan in the path of the sprinklers.

You will be amazed how pretty the yard will look.

These suggestions are no means perfect, but having not seen your lawn, you could do worse than these. I'm cautioning on the lighter side, but more will not make it better. Grass has to grow and must have light, water, and nutrients. Later on a little iron will help.

Keep up the good work.

[readycutlawncare]

At least 90 days maybe longer. What kind of turf are maintaining. The crabgrass preventer will fry the hair roots of any seed as well as the crabgrass. I'd wait till this fall to seed. Also the lime will take 3 or more months to break down to be beneficial to the turf. There is a great site:http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/ Hope this will help.
I know Raleigh well, attended NC State in the 70s, and have lots of friends still there.
Roy

yes the nc state website is the best source of info for our area. I would like to wish you good luck on your new business. I hope you do it right, get your insurance, get your licenses etc. We need to stay strong now more than ever cause ever one that has lost there job is going to be grabbing a mower and trimmer trying to cut lawns.

[Smallaxe]

...On those dog spots, add a little miracle grow if you have any or mix up just a little of that cow manure with water in a bucket and pour a little on it every week or so...

One thought on why "Dog Spots" occur is the excess urea". I believe that , that is more true than the "Acid Theory".

Adding Miracle Gro (water soluable urea) could make the problem worse.

Approach with caution. :)

[Whitey4]

Thanks for the response! It's a fescue lawn, and is in pretty nice shape save for a number of dog spots.

So I should wait about 3 months after doing the pre-emergent before seeding? So I guess I'll have to wait until the fall then to seed. And I don't need to put anything else down on the lawn this spring or summer? The next fertilizer will be the starter fertilizer in the fall when I seed?

I'm going to try to fill in some the dog sports with that Scotts Patchmaster stuff to see how it works. Have you guys ever used that product?

Patchmaster sucks. Don't use it. What pre-emergent did you use? Some last longer than others. I'll guess you used the Scotts with Halts, which is pendimethelin. Gives you about 2, maybe 2 and a half months of CB barrier.

Dog spots... nitrogen burn. Adding more nitrogen will only hurt. That means no fert there, Miracle grow or otherwise. Notice how the grass grows rapidly around the dead spot? that is grass that got a huge shot of N but not enough to burn it and kill it. There is only ONE way to prevent urine spots. put in a dog run, or live with it.

Some Scotts products are very good... Patchmaster sucks. I could explain why, but take my word for it. The Scotts starter soil is very good however for reseeding in the FALL... not now, not after putting down a crabgrass pre-Mproduct.

[synapse88]

Patchmaster sucks. Don't use it. What pre-emergent did you use? Some last longer than others. I'll guess you used the Scotts with Halts, which is pendimethelin. Gives you about 2, maybe 2 and a half months of CB barrier.

Dog spots... nitrogen burn. Adding more nitrogen will only hurt. That means no fert there, Miracle grow or otherwise. Notice how the grass grows rapidly around the dead spot? that is grass that got a huge shot of N but not enough to burn it and kill it. There is only ONE way to prevent urine spots. put in a dog run, or live with it.

Some Scotts products are very good... Patchmaster sucks. I could explain why, but take my word for it. The Scotts starter soil is very good however for reseeding in the FALL... not now, not after putting down a crabgrass pre-Mproduct.

Well I figure it can't hurt anything right?

I've got these brown spots at the moment, and fescue sure isn't gonna fill them in. So worst case I put this stuff down and the seeds never germinate right? Plus is't been raining for the last 10 days straight almost so maybe that will help with the pre-emergent :)

[Whitey4]

Well I figure it can't hurt anything right?

I've got these brown spots at the moment, and fescue sure isn't gonna fill them in. So worst case I put this stuff down and the seeds never germinate right? Plus is't been raining for the last 10 days straight almost so maybe that will help with the pre-emergent :)

If you are into wasting time and money, and that doesn't hurt, then sure, it can't hurt. The rain isn't going to wash away the pre-m barrier. If you are hell bent on this, dig the soil out of those spots, and save it somewhere until you might need it at a future date. Fill in the holes with some quality top soil, seed, and use the Scotts starter soil as a top dressing. Then you will get grass and won't be wasting time and money.

[signature lawns]

I live in Raleigh NC and about 3-4 weeks ago I put down some Crabgrass Prevent/Fertilizer product, along with some lime (had the soil tested and it was off)

Now that it's warming up I was wanting to put some seed down but didn't want to risk over fertilization with the starter fertilizer. How long should I wait between the prevent/turf conditioner and the starter fertilizer?

Also I'm kinda new to lawn care, are there any sites that have guides etc (by region) about general lawn care (when/how to seed etc)? I've found some great info on this site, but I was looking for a non-forum source for lawn info too.

Thanks!

You can seed right away with Tupersan (siduron-active ingredient) which is also a pre-emergent product...it will allow grass seed to germinate, but not crab grass...it's pricey though

[RigglePLC]

Synapse,
My opinion--go ahead and seed the spots--with a top quality tall fescue. The label says you cannot seed for 3 months after crabgrass control. However, I have had customers do it --and some were successful. Dig it up and turn the soil over. Add a little fresh topsoil. Add some quality ryegrass seed--for quicker response--but it will not tolerate the heat well. And use plenty of seed as the germination may be poor because of the chemical. What part of the country are you in? You need to wait until the temps are about 65. Or the first mowing. Cold soil really slows down the seed germination.

[Jason Rose]

I agree with Riggle. I've always said that you can't seed after pre-emergent apps. and I've had customers do it, including my own grandma, and the seed came in fine. Not supposed too, but it did. If all you are doing is trying to fill in the dog spots, I'd say go for it. Even if it dosn't survive 100% you aren't out much in the way of seed. Use a garden claw to scratch the seed into the spots.