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MaineFarmer
03-07-2009, 12:32 PM
Hey everyone

I got a job working on my pops farm in till I find some work (I'm a handy man, was working to keep up a local guys apartments hes rentin). So I know how to do some general stuff fixing things and what not.

My moms birthday is coming up and pops sendin her to a cruise for 10 days with her friend. Mainly he can't leave the farm for that long or he'd go to. She has been wanting to have a pavered patio for a long time. Pop and I were thinkin we'd put one is while shes gone and want to do it right.

None of us work doin landscapeing so we've not done it before, but want it done good. We don't care if it has some problems because its for us and not a customer. I was reading on google how to make one and found this site. I understand from farming a proper base is good. Do I want to do some big stone (3inches) then 1andhalf inches then some sand?

Was askin because it freezes 18inches down up here and I thought the water would go down into the drainage stone and freeze up and shift things around. I know when we need a road in a wet spot on the farm we put down big stone 3-5 inches then some 1 and half inch stone then put 3/4ths inches stone on the top and run it over with the tractor alot.

Got a backhoe so I can dig down pretty far if I need to, but the soil is normal. I know I got to make drainage like the slabs by the barn. I figured 1/4 in per foot would be plenty. Also what do I put around the edge of the patio. I read on here that you guys put fabric and edge down, what do you mean about that. I know I should hire someone to do this but as a farmer we just cant afford it. I read on google and some videos but they look like just average joes that are not doin a very professional job. Wanted to do it like the pros so moms real happy about it. Thank ya'll for the help, Maine Farmer

Here is a picture kinda like what the patios going to go

riverwalklandscaping
03-07-2009, 12:35 PM
What kind of stone do you want to use? Patio stone like bluestone, bricks, concrete manufactured pavers? Some of the answer will depend on what kind of patio you want.

MaineFarmer
03-09-2009, 10:32 PM
Riverwalk I googled pavers to find a picture of some that look like what I can get at a place near me they look like this is the one I want

How do I put these in

http://www.budgetdeckbuilders.com/pavers.jpg

we want some old lookin ones for matching the old house at the farm

shovelracer
03-09-2009, 11:03 PM
Very basic description. Should get you started. Most manufactures have tech guides.

1. mark out area for patio
2. excavate to 15" depth from desired surface and 12" outside your patio marks on all sides
3. Be good with your excavation and make sure sub grade is compacted
4. Install geotextile fabric in hole, overlap seams
5. Install base, QP, 2A, 0-3/4 whatever its called up there in 2" lift increments to a total of 12"
6. Compact each lift real good ( very important )
7. Ensure that base is level with consideration to pitch and no undulation more than 1/4" in 10'
8. place a few 1" pipes on base, cover with concrete sand, screed to 1" without compacting, remove pipes and fill voids
9. install paver in desired pattern
10. install paver edge restraint on base not sand
11. compact pavers
12. sweep joint sand of choice into cracks
13. have a cold beer

Skimastr105
03-16-2009, 10:15 PM
That's a pretty good guide and should get you started pretty well. Most of the paver stores will help answer any questions you may have.

If you do build the patio - post some pictures of it up here - i'm sure we would all like to see how it turned out. Good luck!

KCLandscape
03-16-2009, 10:30 PM
Before, during and after. Cool project, make the Mom happy!

Mid-Ohio Scaper
03-17-2009, 12:34 AM
Very basic description. Should get you started. Most manufactures have tech guides.

1. mark out area for patio
2. excavate to 15" depth from desired surface and 12" outside your patio marks on all sides
3. Be good with your excavation and make sure sub grade is compacted
4. Install geotextile fabric in hole, overlap seams
5. Install base, QP, 2A, 0-3/4 whatever its called up there in 2" lift increments to a total of 12"
6. Compact each lift real good ( very important )
7. Ensure that base is level with consideration to pitch and no undulation more than 1/4" in 10'
8. place a few 1" pipes on base, cover with concrete sand, screed to 1" without compacting, remove pipes and fill voids
9. install paver in desired pattern
10. install paver edge restraint on base not sand
11. compact pavers
12. sweep joint sand of choice into cracks
13. have a cold beer

You're gonna want to sweep sand and tamp at the same time until you've filled all joints. Just sweeping sand into the joints wont fill'em up.
Then you can have a beer.

One more thing, it's not imperative but I like to use #57's for base and #9's for screed, if you can use all clean gravel it doesn't hold moisture.

riverwalklandscaping
03-17-2009, 09:09 PM
Your base also Depends also on what type of dirt that the base is going onto. If you put drainage stone on a clay base the water will sit in that drainage stone depending on how dry it is at the end of the year and may freeze and heave. If your installing it on sandy well drained soil you wont have this problem. I would imagine Maine winters are as bad or worse than Vermont so I think in your case the proper base is quite important. There seems to be a wide variety of installation methods used for pavers around here.

I have always put in what we call 3/4minus base (which is stones 3/4inches and smaller), and used sand or dust depending on if its pavers or something like bluestone to get the grade and place the pavers directly onto that. A guy I used to work for would put drainage stone, then smaller drainage stone, then smaller drainage stone, then dust down. I never do it this way but I never saw his patios heave so who knows. I do go pretty deep with my base though, and compact, compact, compact.

Mid-ohio, what is #57 and #9? lol I think there needs to be one uniform name for stone in this country, I feel like I hear a new one every day.

KCLandscape
03-17-2009, 10:00 PM
Base is called AB-3 around here.

shovelracer
03-17-2009, 10:33 PM
You're gonna want to sweep sand and tamp at the same time until you've filled all joints. Just sweeping sand into the joints wont fill'em up.
Then you can have a beer.

One more thing, it's not imperative but I like to use #57's for base and #9's for screed, if you can use all clean gravel it doesn't hold moisture.

Its not real important, but I left that out because it isnt alway the best approach. For most products it can be, but I have found certain style pavers are more prone to crack after they start to get locked in. For small areas it is easier to pay someone to sweep it in a few more times before you wet it in.

riverwalklandscaping
03-17-2009, 11:14 PM
Also the size/force of the plate compactor you are using might be causing them to crack. I haven't cracked a paver before but I use a small compactor.

Bru75
03-18-2009, 12:00 AM
I use a 5,500 pound compactor and used to crack pavers until I got a mat to put on it. Haven't cracked one since.
In VA 3/4 minus is 21-A. Funny how the name varies across the country.

Mid-Ohio Scaper
03-18-2009, 07:33 AM
Your base also Depends also on what type of dirt that the base is going onto. If you put drainage stone on a clay base the water will sit in that drainage stone depending on how dry it is at the end of the year and may freeze and heave. If your installing it on sandy well drained soil you wont have this problem. I would imagine Maine winters are as bad or worse than Vermont so I think in your case the proper base is quite important. There seems to be a wide variety of installation methods used for pavers around here.

I have always put in what we call 3/4minus base (which is stones 3/4inches and smaller), and used sand or dust depending on if its pavers or something like bluestone to get the grade and place the pavers directly onto that. A guy I used to work for would put drainage stone, then smaller drainage stone, then smaller drainage stone, then dust down. I never do it this way but I never saw his patios heave so who knows. I do go pretty deep with my base though, and compact, compact, compact.

Mid-ohio, what is #57 and #9? lol I think there needs to be one uniform name for stone in this country, I feel like I hear a new one every day.

I always give the water a place to go, you have to give it drainage, even if it's sandy soil. If not, like you said the water will sit, freeze, and heave, that's just common sense.

Around here they give different size crushed limestone gravel a number. #57's are a clean washed three quarter inch crushed limestone gravel, and #9's are an eighth to a quarter inch clean washed fine chip limestone gravel.(about the smallest I can get before dust)
You're right though, they should keep the sizing of gravel uniform throughout the country.