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GMTA
03-14-2009, 06:14 PM
Is it bad practice when you do not trim aluminum siding and just lay product up to it. Base is below the siding but bedding sand/pavers will be higher than original height of the bottom of the siding. Can I do this without future problems or should I hire a siding specialist to trim the siding to desired height?

Bru75
03-14-2009, 07:48 PM
Depends on what is behind the siding. Concrete or masonry would probably be ok, but not wood.
It would definitely look better to have the siding above the pavers.

DVS Hardscaper
03-15-2009, 09:51 AM
This is no one answer to this question.

It depends on how high you would go. 8-inches? probably would be fine. 20-inches? Maybe not a good thing.

Now you said "aluminum". But in terms of vinyl - what people do not realize is that vinyl has vent holes on the bottom of it's lip. So if you go a few inches over the vinyl.....it WILL breathe.

AllHardscaping
03-15-2009, 02:19 PM
The siding always has some flex so make sure you get the base compacted against it well enough otherwise you will have settleing issues. Especially when you get wind blown rian that drips or flows down the siding and wants to erode the material between the siding and base. If you do pave up to it I would use a plyemric sand to help with the erosion issue.

Like the others said, if it is backed by wood I wouldnt pave up to it.

GMTA
03-15-2009, 05:09 PM
Thanks for the responces all!

Having a siding guy come out to remove just the bottom row to give me the clearance needed.

DVS Hardscaper
03-15-2009, 10:06 PM
ok, talk to us.

so he's gonna remove the bottom row, then what?

You cover the wood with aluminum flashing?? Thats what We do. But the reality is.....moisture is moisture! You can nail on 3 layers of flashing, it's not gonna keep moisture out!

Think of a basement finishing job. All properly finished basement's wall's studding are attached to pressure treated 2x4's that are anchored to the floor. This way moisture that comes through the concrete - doesn't rot the wood that the concrete is in contact with.

DVS Hardscaper
03-15-2009, 10:37 PM
This is kinda along the lines of my pet peeve on pop up emitters.


Another analogy is think of an addition on a home. Masonry foundation and just a crawl space under the addition. There will be vents on the foundation walls. This is to allow air to circulate.

Again, same concept applies to patios constructed up against wood sides of a dwelling. This is something that needs to be accounted for when the house is constructed, This way they can use proper materials (pressure treated, etc). Once the house is constructed, it's kinda to late.

Steiner
03-16-2009, 05:43 PM
Add a layer of sticky back underlayment under the flashing. I will fill all holes and imperfections created by nails and flashing. Not sure what its called in all areas. Ice dam, ice block......

Cheap insurance....

GMTA
03-18-2009, 08:08 PM
ok, talk to us.

so he's gonna remove the bottom row, then what?

You cover the wood with aluminum flashing?? Thats what We do. But the reality is.....moisture is moisture! You can nail on 3 layers of flashing, it's not gonna keep moisture out!

Think of a basement finishing job. All properly finished basement's wall's studding are attached to pressure treated 2x4's that are anchored to the floor. This way moisture that comes through the concrete - doesn't rot the wood that the concrete is in contact with.

Understand your concern but the siding to be removed is under a front covered porch. Removing the lower section of siding, adjusting for the necessary height, then closing everything back up should not change anything regarding future moisture. My guy is confident this is an easy adjustment and will not change the protection that's already in place.

wurkn with amish
03-19-2009, 07:57 PM
Ice guard, roofing rubber... then flashing is good cheap insurance.
caulk nail heads even better.