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4 seasons lawn&land
03-16-2009, 09:45 PM
This will be my 2nd year, I got my mower new so this will be the first time to do any important maintainance. What should i do other than grease the fittings? Motor oil? how often do you need to do that? It's a fan cooled so the coolant should be fine since it doesn't exist. What else? Thanks

Lex Lawn
03-16-2009, 09:54 PM
I would reffer to your manual. Here's what I do. Change oil, grease points, charge battery, check tire pressure, check belt and replace if needed, check hydro reseviour, clean or replace air filter, check spark plugs and replace if needed, sharpen blades, I may have forgotten some things but this should get you going...I preform all this maintenance after I pressure wash the machine.

4.3mudder
03-16-2009, 09:56 PM
I would reffer to your manual. Here's what I do. Change oil, grease points, charge battery, check tire pressure, check belt and replace if needed, check hydro reseviour, clean or replace air filter, check spark plugs and replace if needed, sharpen blades, I may have forgotten some things but this should get you going...I preform all this maintenance after I pressure wash the machine.

Ditto, that's about all you need to do.

4 seasons lawn&land
03-16-2009, 10:26 PM
oil filter?

ALC-GregH
03-16-2009, 10:34 PM
yep.......

MileHigh
03-16-2009, 10:53 PM
This will be my 2nd year, I got my mower new so this will be the first time to do any important maintainance. What should i do other than grease the fittings? Motor oil? how often do you need to do that? It's a fan cooled so the coolant should be fine since it doesn't exist. What else? Thanks

At Zero Hours: Install Hour Meter.

After 2hrs: Inspect PTO clucthing belt tension.

After 5hrs: Change engine oil and filter

After 100hrs: Check wheel hub-slotted torque spec.

After 250hrs: Change Hydro Filter.

DAILY: CHECK- oil, mower blades, loose hardware, grease wheel bearings, grease castor pivots, correct tire pressure, clean grass build up under deck.

EVERY 25 HOURS: service Air Cleaner, check belts, grease pump drive idler pivot, grease clutch arm pivot, grease pump control bearings, grease mower deck idler pivot, inspect PTO belt tension.

EVERY 40 HOURS: CHECK- hydro oil level, tire pressure

EVERY 80 HOURS: Remove engine shrouds and clean cooling fans.

EVERY 100 HOURS: Change engine oil with Synthetic oil. Change oil filter with recommended filter.

EVERY 160 HOURS: Change spark plugs.

EVERY 500 HOURS: Check wheel hub-slotted torque specs.

hope this helps you out :drinkup:

4.3mudder
03-16-2009, 11:01 PM
Come on, oil filter, that is common sense with the oil :hammerhead:

4 seasons lawn&land
03-16-2009, 11:04 PM
just tryin' to get a list together. I will forget:dizzy:

topsites
03-17-2009, 12:54 AM
Don't forget the bearing buddies!

4 seasons lawn&land
03-17-2009, 05:41 PM
i dunno what that is...

mowerbrad
03-17-2009, 05:52 PM
Depending on the oil that you use, if you don't use synthetic then you should change it every 50hours.

ZTR_Diesel
03-17-2009, 06:06 PM
Depending on the oil that you use, if you don't use synthetic then you should change it every 50hours.

Given the common avability of synthetic oil these days, it's likely just best overall to change to that - after the engine has had a time to break in. Recall if it's a diesel it needs to be "CG" rated oil, such as Rotella 5W-40. If it were my machine, I would run with a 5 & 50 hr oil changes with mineral oil, then drain and fill with synthetic, increasing the interval to 100 hours thereafter. It all comes down to use.

Now - my mower when I recieve it will have 450 hours on it. It's an '02 with a Briggs V-twin. Would it be best to run to 500 hrs prior to switching it over to synthetic oil?

milo
03-17-2009, 07:44 PM
also check your muffler bearings:dancing::laugh:

Busa_bill
03-17-2009, 08:31 PM
I make sure the gas tank's full

4 seasons lawn&land
03-17-2009, 10:27 PM
also check your muffler bearings:dancing::laugh:



Damnit! I can't find any of this stuff! How often do these thing's need new brake pad's?

ZTR_Diesel
03-17-2009, 11:29 PM
Personally, I would check the mower balde eject button for proper use - while running at rated speed of course!!

Green Machine Mowing
03-17-2009, 11:47 PM
you can run mineral oil in your engines??? :confused:

DaughtryLC
03-17-2009, 11:51 PM
I give mine a BIG KISS!!

CFB
03-18-2009, 12:13 AM
you can run mineral oil in your engines??? :confused:

assume this is a joke but just in case....he's talking about conventional oil (not synthetic)

topsites
03-18-2009, 01:55 AM
Given the common avability of synthetic oil these days, it's likely just best overall to change to that - after the engine has had a time to break in. Recall if it's a diesel it needs to be "CG" rated oil, such as Rotella 5W-40. If it were my machine, I would run with a 5 & 50 hr oil changes with mineral oil, then drain and fill with synthetic, increasing the interval to 100 hours thereafter. It all comes down to use.

Now - my mower when I recieve it will have 450 hours on it. It's an '02 with a Briggs V-twin. Would it be best to run to 500 hrs prior to switching it over to synthetic oil?

There is now a minority crowd, myself included who as of about 2 years ago started to run synth in new
engines right off the shelf, throughout the break-in period and all, without any problems whatsoever.

And I can't tell you what to do, because it is still a new concept but that's what I've been doing.

Only thing I have conventional oil around for is the air compressor and the hydraulics.

Busa_bill
03-18-2009, 07:27 AM
As far as I know, the only reason to run dino oil during break in would be to allow time for the rings to seat. Initially, there will be some difference in surface finish, size and ovality between the rings and cylinder wall. All engine components are machined to a +/- tolerance. Sometimes, the components mated together have been produced to opposite ends of the tolerance spectrum. The break in procedure allows time and condition for a "coming together" of the mating surfaces. In the cylinder, the benefit is optimum compression.

Some car motors come from the factory with syn. installed. Obviously, they are able to produce the engines in such a way that they have overcome the traditional issue. I have reservations as to if small engines are yet produced to the same standard.

Allens LawnCare
03-18-2009, 07:37 AM
Come on, oil filter, that is common sense with the oil :hammerhead:

But your forgetting the Hydro Filter! J.K