Electric Clutch Maybe???

[jlink]

I've got a Toro 223-D (Model Number 30569) 4WD Groundsmaster with a 62" recycler deck. The problem is when I engage the blades with the switch, it starts off very very slow and it takes like 20 seconds to get the blades spinning at full speed even on pavement. Sometimes it will be 5 seconds after I flip the switch before the blades even start to turn. If I hit tall or thick grass, the blade speed slows down a great deal. Its almost like the clutch is slipping. I've checked all the belts and they seem to be okay. The air gap on the clutch is .015. I've had electric clutches go bad before on other mowers and they froze up without ever slipping. Is Slipping a common problem on these clutches???? Any other ideas??? Thanks.

[4.3mudder]

No they don't slip, I would check your fuel, sounds like it is starving for fuel. When you start to encounter problems they will start to squeak and squeal, then, sometimes I have seen they will cause a great deal of a load on the fuse and they will quickly pop, then finally the bearings give and it freezes. So, I would look into your fuel system, filter, pull your plugs and see what they look like.

[Restrorob]

Sorry mudder, The D in the model number denotes diesel.....


jlink,

Make sure you are getting FULL voltage to the clutch, If so you can remove the clutch and disassemble. Part reference #4 below has raised ribs around it, If these ribs are worn smooth it could cause slippage.




http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Toro/AdjustablePTOClutch.jpg

[4.3mudder]

Sorry mudder, The D in the model number denotes diesel.....




You got me! Guess I didn't pay attention to that. :waving:

[betmr]

You didn't say what the engine is doing when this happens, does it keep running at full speed ? 223D that's a pretty old machine, am I right....I sure wish people would add a model year to these posts, Age helps diagnose lots of things.

If your engine is changing when you engage the clutch, that may be where the trouble is, could be many things, if it's engine.

[ed2hess]

Sorry mudder, The D in the model number denotes diesel.....


jlink,

Make sure you are getting FULL voltage to the clutch, If so you can remove the clutch and disassemble. Part reference #4 below has raised ribs around it, If these ribs are worn smooth it could cause slippage.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Toro/AdjustablePTOClutch.jpg
Rob,
Is that the adjustable kind of clutch? Air gap may be wide if it is. I just realized that on Scag they say to adjust them yearly.

[jlink]

You didn't say what the engine is doing when this happens, does it keep running at full speed ? 223D that's a pretty old machine, am I right....I sure wish people would add a model year to these posts, Age helps diagnose lots of things.

If your engine is changing when you engage the clutch, that may be where the trouble is, could be many things, if it's engine.


It is a 1995 model. Yes, the engine keeps running at full speed. The engine doesn't bog down or act like it is starving for fuel. It just acts like something is slipping between the motor and the blades.

[jlink]

Rob,
Is that the adjustable kind of clutch? Air gap may be wide if it is. I just realized that on Scag they say to adjust them yearly.

The air gap was around .030 until I re-gapped it to .015 like the manual says. I couldn't tell any difference it the way it was acting after changing the air gap from .030 to .015

[jlink]

jlink,

Make sure you are getting FULL voltage to the clutch, If so you can remove the clutch and disassemble. Part reference #4 below has raised ribs around it, If these ribs are worn smooth it could cause slippage.




http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Toro/AdjustablePTOClutch.jpg

Thanks for the info. Do I check the voltage at the plug??.. If the ribs are worn on the Field Coil Assembly (part #4), is it worthwhile to just replace that part or does the whole Electric Clutch need to be replaced?

[Restrorob]

Do I check the voltage at the plug??..

Yes, Right at the clutch.

If the ribs are worn on the Field Coil Assembly (part #4), is it worthwhile to just replace that part or does the whole Electric Clutch need to be replaced?

That would be up to you, Replacing the one part may work for a little while but there's no telling how long. It would most likely be better to replace the whole clutch then you know you'll be good to go for a while, Keep up with the adjustment and it should last a good long time.

[betmr]

I'm going to suggest, before you go too crazy, that you take a little sand paper or something that can clean up your electrical contacts nice. sort of like a battery with dirty terminals, any corrosion there can limit your electric flow. then put some Di-Electric grease on the terminals before reassembly. Get it at auto parts store.

Old machine, been sitting, could just be corrosion.

[RonAyersMotorsports]

Sorry guys Restro has it. Its the clutch. Keep up with adjustment on the new one before it starts slipping and it will last much longer.