PDA

View Full Version : Good Candidate for a Refacing? Pics


4 seasons lawn&land
04-25-2009, 09:32 PM
These are either poored concrete forms or super huge pavers and they've been here at least 20 year's... maybe a hundred, IDK. But they arent moving or setling anymore, 4 inches thick, and currently have a maximum of 1/2 inch of height difference between block's.

I've never done a reface but obviously it would be wet construction. What do you use? Thinset? Thinking of facing this with 1/2 or 3/4 inch flag.

I dont think it's nesessary to remove them.

wurkn with amish
04-26-2009, 10:45 AM
ummmmm








right?
you don't even know a concrete sidewalk when you see one?
tearout and pour new!

4 seasons lawn&land
04-26-2009, 10:50 AM
what the hell are you talking about?

wurkn with amish
04-26-2009, 10:55 AM
Quote: "They are either pour concrete forms or huge pavers" end quote.
tear out the old sidewalk, pour new, put flagging on new! how hard is that.

4 seasons lawn&land
04-26-2009, 11:24 AM
what? very hard! Why the "F" would I tear that out and pour a new one? It's already there... If I tore it out to do flagging why would I put another concrete walk back in?

4 seasons lawn&land
04-26-2009, 11:30 AM
and why are you quoting me, they are either poured concrete forms or pre-poured and brought in like that, like a paver.

Summit L & D
04-26-2009, 12:28 PM
I don't think those are pre-poured slabs. The main issue I see you having with using the existing concrete is unevenness. Those slabs are pitched all different directions. You may be able to get the flagstone perfectly level, but it's going to be a challenge. I see what you are saying about the settling being finished, but I don't think I'd want to lay on top of what's there.

bullet4547
04-26-2009, 01:53 PM
shouldn't be a problem with 3/4 or 1" flag.clean the surface and set with type s masonary...make a full bed of mortar...

4 seasons lawn&land
04-26-2009, 03:35 PM
I agree they were most likely poured right there, the part that makes me wonder is them being poured in 4 seperate forms rather than just one and then cut the stress cut's... I just realized why as I typed this, I bet the cutting equipment was not as readily available as it is today and this was probably done by a home owner.

welcome to the forum bullet. That's pretty much what I had in mind.

Bru75
04-26-2009, 03:56 PM
IMO I'd tear it out.
If you do leave it you will have to have control joints in your flagstone to match the ones in the concrete, these slabs will move with freeze/thaw.
I use 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement for this type of thing.

Duffster
04-26-2009, 04:24 PM
.... the part that makes me wonder is them being poured in 4 seperate forms rather than just one and then cut ....

It is a tooled joint that cracked (as it should) then filled with moisture and froze, pushing them apart then filling with dirt. This has happened every year for many years and is why the joint is so big

lblmike
04-26-2009, 05:00 PM
it appears to be a cast in place sidewalk with what appears to be control\expansion joint made from 1/2" thick asphalt impregmated fibreboard (tentest). All municipal sidewalks are still done this way in our area. IMHO you will defintely need to follow these control joints when laying your flagstone on this surface.

lblmike
04-26-2009, 05:04 PM
have you not been having problems of flagstone popping off of concrete during freeze thaw cycles?

Here flagstone set in concrete was very popular in the sixties but our freeze thaw cycles would cause the stone to pop of the concrete especially with the thickness of flag that you are plannig to use.

4 seasons lawn&land
04-26-2009, 06:32 PM
I would deffinately have the stones meet the side walk joints, as in NOT bridge a gap with a stone. This is what you guys are saying right? I also dont see how they could ever pop if they were built onto the individual blocks because there is no flex or torsion in those block forms. Hardest part would hopefully just be matching the pitch between form's and they are all pretty close.

Top Dog Pavers
04-26-2009, 09:36 PM
Those have to be removed to install flagging..thats a poured sidewalk that has cracked and moved to reveal a tremondous joint...do it right-do it once

betmr
04-26-2009, 10:43 PM
I would deffinately have the stones meet the side walk joints, as in NOT bridge a gap with a stone. This is what you guys are saying right? I also dont see how they could ever pop if they were built onto the individual blocks because there is no flex or torsion in those block forms. Hardest part would hopefully just be matching the pitch between form's and they are all pretty close.

Your in NY. It freezes. Water is going to seep into the joints, it is going to freeze in there and your flags are going to pop loose, and concrete in joints is going to spaul. Lets not forget also, the amount of De-Icer the home owner is going to throw down there (= freeze/thaw cycles). I say, sell them a new concrete sidewalk. problem solved. You could even flare the end to match the width of the stairs.

That's my opinion.

bullet4547
04-27-2009, 08:28 AM
Thanks for the welcome,the control joints might have been wood that has rotted out over time.If your sure the movement is done,just lay the flag,use larger pieces to bridge the control joints.stay with type s masonary.I have been a mason for 41 years .

wurkn with amish
04-27-2009, 10:08 PM
Bullet....
you are also in Texas, huge difference from NY.

sbvfd592
04-30-2009, 12:10 PM
The right way to do this job is remove all existing. Form a new walk and pour fresh then overlay. I would make the walk as wide as the stair case. This will last 20 years. If you overlay it will last maybe 5 or 8 years depending on what part of ny you are in