Brand new homeowner!!

[littlewing52]

My wife and I just bought our first home. It is brand new and has brand new sod. I am pretty good at mowing, edging, etc. but since we have rented up until now, I don't really know much about fertilizing and weed control. Watering has been a non-issue lately because we've been getting a ton of rain. I would love to be able to make my lawn gorgeous on my own without having to hire out. What tips do I need to know to make this happen?!?

[Marcos]

My wife and I just bought our first home. It is brand new and has brand new sod. I am pretty good at mowing, edging, etc. but since we have rented up until now, I don't really know much about fertilizing and weed control. Watering has been a non-issue lately because we've been getting a ton of rain. I would love to be able to make my lawn gorgeous on my own without having to hire out. What tips do I need to know to make this happen?!?

Where exactly in the country are you?
You did not indicate any location! :confused:

How big is your lawn...a quarter acre, half acre?
What did they sod with...bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, or do you even know?
What type of soil texture do you have...clayey, sandy, rocky, or something in between?
How much shade do you now have, or... will you have in the near future?
Do you have pets that go, or stay outdoors?
Will there be certain areas that children will be playing harder on, vs. other areas?

Post a couple digital pics of your newly sodded lawn, if you'd like! :)

[benjammin]

Get familar with your state's ag ext. Submit a soil sample and read up on the ag ext website and links.
And if you want a gorgeous lawn I'd get irrigation installed.

[littlewing52]

Where exactly in the country are you?
You did not indicate any location! In Oklahoma

How big is your lawn...a quarter acre, half acre? - A little less than a half acre.
What did they sod with...bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, or do you even know? - Bermuda
What type of soil texture do you have...clayey, sandy, rocky, or something in between? More sandy than clay.
How much shade do you now have, or... will you have in the near future? - Little shade now, but have a baby spruce planted. Maybe more trees in the future, and a fence.
Do you have pets that go, or stay outdoors? - Two small dogs that are "indoor" dogs but they go out regularly.
Will there be certain areas that children will be playing harder on, vs. other areas? - No kids yet but there will be.
Hope that helps!

[Marcos]

Where exactly in the country are you?
You did not indicate any location! In Oklahoma

How big is your lawn...a quarter acre, half acre? - A little less than a half acre.
What did they sod with...bluegrass, fescue, bermuda, or do you even know? - Bermuda
What type of soil texture do you have...clayey, sandy, rocky, or something in between? More sandy than clay.
How much shade do you now have, or... will you have in the near future? - Little shade now, but have a baby spruce planted. Maybe more trees in the future, and a fence.
Do you have pets that go, or stay outdoors? - Two small dogs that are "indoor" dogs but they go out regularly.
Will there be certain areas that children will be playing harder on, vs. other areas? - No kids yet but there will be.
Hope that helps!

Hmmm....

I'm not a bermudagrass authority by any means, as this is fescue-bluegrass territory.
But I'll do what I can! :waving:

Having more sand than clay means that your lawn will probably drain fairly well. This can be good; and it can be bad.
"Good"... in terms of deeper rooting of your turf, in general, and a lack of puddling in the lawn.
"Bad"....because soils that drain well may dry out faster, thus may potentially require more artificial irrigation in stressful periods!

Weed Control

I suggest that you write this rule down, and put it up in your garage next to your sprayer and/or spreader:

"The goal of having a lawn that is relatively free of weeds is NOT obtained by the use of bag, bottle, or hose-end sprayer.
This goal should be centered on the promotion of good soil, air movement within the soil, and thick healthy turf that will in essence choke out most weeds before they can have a chance to gain a foothold. Pesticides should be used very sparingly, only when necessary."

This isn't just about reducing pesticide usage.
It's all about common sense.

Fertilizer

I'll let you take the direction...
Are you interested in talking about organic bio-programs, or "traditional" 5-step store-bought programs, or a little of both? :confused:
What type of application equipment do you have now, if any?
What are your nearby neighbors doing? Are they happy?

[littlewing52]

I'll let you take the direction...
Are you interested in talking about organic bio-programs, or "traditional" 5-step store-bought programs, or a little of both? :confused:
What type of application equipment do you have now, if any?
What are your nearby neighbors doing? Are they happy?

In regards to the above: I've heard that I should get a "starter" fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle #, correct?). I am planning (for now) to use store bought grainules with some sort of broadcast spreader. Any advice on that? If that doesn't work, or is more expensive, I may hire out.

[All Season Bill]

If you purchased a brand new home, the contractor probably put down BlueGrass sod in the front which means you already have a thatch problem (that's what holds it together). Aerate annually ,but not now wait until the sod gets aclimated.
Perhaps in the Fall or even next Spring.

[Smallaxe]

Hmmm....

I'm not a bermudagrass authority by any means, as this is fescue-bluegrass territory.
But I'll do what I can! :waving:

Having more sand than clay means that your lawn will probably drain fairly well. This can be good; and it can be bad.
"Good"... in terms of deeper rooting of your turf, in general, and a lack of puddling in the lawn.
"Bad"....because soils that drain well may dry out faster, thus may potentially require more artificial irrigation in stressful periods!

Weed Control

I suggest that you write this rule down, and put it up in your garage next to your sprayer and/or spreader:

"The goal of having a lawn that is relatively free of weeds is NOT obtained by the use of bag, bottle, or hose-end sprayer.
This goal should be centered on the promotion of good soil, air movement within the soil, and thick healthy turf that will in essence choke out most weeds before they can have a chance to gain a foothold. Pesticides should be used very sparingly, only when necessary."

This isn't just about reducing pesticide usage.
It's all about common sense.

Fertilizer

I'll let you take the direction...
Are you interested in talking about organic bio-programs, or "traditional" 5-step store-bought programs, or a little of both? :confused:
What type of application equipment do you have now, if any?
What are your nearby neighbors doing? Are they happy?

:laugh: Imagine the possibilities if - HomeOwners actually thought about what you just said... :laugh:

[Grasssales2001]

Yea smallaxe it would be amazing wouldn't it! A lot of lco's need to read and ponder those thoughts too. Little wing - what kind of shape is the yard in now? Does it have good color ( are you happy with the way it looks)? Is it relatively weed free? What type of mowing equipment do you have? At what height are you currently maintaining the grass? A good lawn requires proper mowing , watering, and fertility. Bermuda can be maintained several ways depending on the look you want and the amount of time you are prepared to spend on it.

[Marcos]

In regards to the above: I've heard that I should get a "starter" fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle #, correct?). I am planning (for now) to use store bought grainules with some sort of broadcast spreader. Any advice on that? If that doesn't work, or is more expensive, I may hire out.

Well, you said the bermuda sod was new, but how new? Laid last fall, this spring? :confused:
If it was laid last fall, my guess is that the contractor who put it down probably already used a high P starter fert.
If it's been laid recently and it's not rooted in well, go ahead and buy something with a 2 : 3 : 1 nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio on the bag.
(I.E.....'16-26-10')

A 50# bag of 16-26-10 would cover a 1/4 acre, so you would need two bags.
Don't get sucked into buying smaller 'customer friendly' 20#, 25# bags at HD or whatever, you'll pay through the nose!
HD will sell 50# bags, you just have to go outside & get down & dirty sometimes to find them! :laugh:

You need to buy a broadcast spreader?
Go out and buy something decent, preferably with pneumatic, rubber tires & a frame that won't rust very easily (fertilizer is corrosive if you don't wash it off BTW).
DON'T....buy anything with el-cheapo plastic wheels because you'll probably be throwing it away in about a year!
A good spreader is worth the investment.

All Season Bill is 100% correct.
An annual core aeration is a good thing for rhizomous turf like bermuda.
Wait until the fall, when the soil's good & moist.

Thinking about hiring out?
If this is the avenue you go down, don't necessarily go out there shopping the lowest price.
Look for a company that'll be able to prove to you from the get-go that it has an excellent record of vendor-customer communications, that has a good track record locally.
The absolute best LCOs are the ones that strive to continually involve their clients toward the path of their own success.
Both LCO & customer, after a certain amount of time, will begin to look at each other sort of as...."partners". :waving: