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View Full Version : Echo trimmer problem SRM-230


Knight511
05-11-2009, 09:11 AM
My Echo SRM-230 is having major issues. The engine starts and idles fine. When you pull the trigger to throttle up, the engine barely revs and blows more smoke than normal. It is useless for the work. I have gotten around this because I swapped my engine from my edger (same engine) over to the trimmer, but I still want to fix it. I have checked the compression on the engine (fine) and taken the trimmer apart to check to make sure the magnetic pick up for the ignition is clean (it was).

Has anyone run into the problem on a trimmer not spooling up to full trimming speed? Any ideas as to what it could be?

I have thought it may be the ignition module itself, but would like a little confirmation before i start throwing money at the thing (if it is hopeless, I will just replace it).

If all you have to say is "that trimmer is crap, buy XXX brand instead" like so many help threads turn into, please move along... nothing to see here.

Charles
05-11-2009, 09:25 AM
Could be the fuel filter, muffler screen clogged, piston scratched(if not 89 octane fuel--likely), carb could have dirt in it, water in fuel, spark plug, cooling vents clogged

ALC-GregH
05-11-2009, 09:25 AM
Could it be the mix is too rich? The ignition module shouldn't do that. When they're bad, they don't work. Also the needle settings could have been changed. Did you try to clean the carb up? It could have dirt in the needle/seat area making it dump fuel.

Knight511
05-11-2009, 09:32 AM
I did move this to the repair forum.... I don't know how I have missed that sub forum for so long, but I have never seen it... just found it while searching for my problem...

Fuel - My Honda mower requires 89, so all of my equipment gets 89.
Mix - Very careful while mixing the oil gas for the right amount.
Spark arrestor - cleaned and then replaced (no change)
Carb - Cleaned and then swapped between the mower edger (no change)
Spark plug/air filter/fuel filter - All change regularly and after the problem start (no change)
Fuel - tank has been drained and refilled; no water in fuel (no change)
Spark plug - cleaned, gapped, replaced, gapped (no change)
"Scratched" piston - no foreign debris have been in the cylinder and the compression is fine... so the piston is not crack and the rings and ring lands are still functioning properly

The thing that makes this pretty annoying is that when I swapped the carb from my 230 series engine on my edger, I thought that would fix it for sure after reading about so many problems with the needles and dirt in the carb... then when I started it up, the engine ran the exact same. And that is what made me think it could be electrical.

Knight511
05-11-2009, 09:39 AM
thanks for the move :)

topsites
05-11-2009, 02:37 PM
Well it's been 4 years, my srm-260s sat all that time...
It wouldn't run right.
Finally I got it.

Took many, many hours.
Was it worth it, you decide.

Spark plug, air filter, fuel filter for starters.
Totally cleaned the carb, I may have even replaced it but it's been so long, and like yourself, no change.
De-carboned the exhaust port itself, unfortunately in the process of removing the muffler I ruined it
and had to replace it, lo and behold did you know a Stihl muffler fits on an Echo?
Good thing, I had an FS-85 sitting around that's broken, use it for parts.

(On another note, the FS-85's coil works on an FS-100rx, although it did require some delicate modifications).

But, all the same, it ran crappy if at all, I even tried running it without the muffler so I was sure it wasn't clogged.
Other than some sparklies and a lot of noise thou, it still didn't run right.
After this it must've sat another 6-12 months.

Then I had to twist some arms at the dealership to get them to send me...
No, wait, how was this?
Oh yeah, I had to PAY them to replace the coil so that I could get a free one under
Echo's lifetime coil warranty, only way they said it could be attested that it was bad.
(Indeed, of course, it was).

New coil and all, it would run great for a bit and then get crappy again, so I made an adjustment and then it wouldn't run at all.
After that I about lost all hope, this was 2-3 years ago.

What did I learn?
NEVER throw it away, so I kept it.

Two days ago, as one learns things over the years.
I decided to check the coil's gap between that and the magneto.
I didn't even have to check, just looking at it I could see a LOT of air there.
Bastards didn't gap the coil proper, or maybe I messed it up?

Anyhow, after re-gapping the (new) coil it works.
Runs like it did first day.

Knight511
05-11-2009, 06:06 PM
Crap... No privatemessages here...

That sounds promising. Did you set the gap to aan actual measurement or did you just "eye ball" it?

ed2hess
05-11-2009, 07:59 PM
Well did you replace the fuel filter and breather? And did you check to see if the ports are clean. Any sign of fuel leakage anywhere like head gasket or the crank seals? And when you took the carb off did you run a wire into the hole inthe gasket that vents fuel into the cyclinder?

Knight511
05-11-2009, 09:22 PM
Well did you replace the fuel filter and breather? And did you check to see if the ports are clean. Any sign of fuel leakage anywhere like head gasket or the crank seals? And when you took the carb off did you run a wire into the hole inthe gasket that vents fuel into the cyclinder?

Did you bother to read the thread before responding? We have covered all of this ;)

topsites
05-11-2009, 09:28 PM
Crap... No privatemessages here...

That sounds promising. Did you set the gap to aan actual measurement or did you just "eye ball" it?

No.
The trick is to use a business card, I just learned that over the years.

Way to do it is, with the coil removed turn the flywheel until the magnetos are lined up near the top,
right below where the coil would go, then place the business card onto the magnetos.

It is so, the magnetos need to be in a position that, when you put the coil in place, will match up against the coil, hope that makes sense.

Once that is there, hold the business card in place with one hand and with the other gently bring the coil into place
and SNAP the magnetism between the two will clamp it in place, make sure the coil is lined up the right way first lol,
but now all that's left to do is tighten the bolts, you might have to nudge the coil a bit to get the holes to line up.

Once everything is all secure, easy does it but you gotta wedge that business card back out of there.
Either pull on it by hand, sometimes I have to turn the flywheel, it might tear the card up a bit.

DO:
After it's installed, turn the flywheel by hand once or twice around completely to make SURE there is NO contact!
(Just in case heh)
Reconnect the electrical wires.

In the end there should be VERY little air in that gap.
Oh btw, a matchbook cover works as well, most any thin piece of cardboard really.

Breezmister
05-11-2009, 09:57 PM
And that is what made me think it could be electrical.

let me throw my two cents in here. I don't think your problem is electrical...but I did have a Shindawa that had bad wires coming from the throttle back to the engine. One of them was cracked, and every time you applied power, the trimmer would vibrate a little which caused the wire to rub against the side of the engine and ground out....

I think you have an air leak some where. When you had the carb off, did you take the insulator off and clean the pulse port hole ? It runs through the insulator, in to the cylinder. I use a piece of a coat hanger to clean them out. Also, if you take the insulator off, make sure that the end that goes up against the cylinder is flat/square. I have seen them warp. Also, check to see if the bolts/nuts that hold the cylinder on are tight and there is no liquid/dampness (oily) any where around that base. Lastly, the seals, if you have any dampness (oily) behind the recoil starter or the fly wheel, those seals should be replaced....

Good Luck

ed2hess
05-11-2009, 10:30 PM
Did you bother to read the thread before responding? We have covered all of this ;)

upps sorry to waste your time........I work on them as mechanic for our business but quess I don't read so good.:hammerhead:

Knight511
05-11-2009, 10:57 PM
upps sorry to waste your time........I work on them as mechanic for our business but quess I don't read so good.:hammerhead:

NP... I have done just about all I could think of... up to replaciong the carb with a known good carb.... so now I will check the magneto one more time... and inspect all of the wiring to make sure I don't have a short...

And there are no fluid leaks on my engine... :)

Prodeje79
06-07-2010, 11:45 AM
What happened with this?

Knight511
06-08-2010, 12:24 PM
Ooops.... I thought I updated this. After replacing everything dealing with fuel delivery, I determined it was either the spark or the motor was beyond repair. I took a shot and order a replacement coil/ignition module (like $35) and replaced it...

VIOLA!

Motor runs like the day I bought it again.