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STRINGALATION
05-26-2009, 02:44 AM
well first i have searched and i have to ask because i cannot find it worded right.


i hear terms like crusher run, 57, fines, screenings , clean and the like

im sure i'm about to put up a small 2 course and cap 40' wall

here 57 gravel is what i believe is used to back fill. its clean larger sorta drive way gravel. now for my base i'm planning on using what is called dense grade here. i have used it for parking pads. once it gets wet and sets up its like a slab was poured. not sure what else to use this seems fine to me. any help welcomed

NewHorizon's Land
05-26-2009, 11:24 PM
You are correct. Use the dense grade for the base and the clean for the drainage stone.

Dont use fines or screenings as the bulk of your base. It is ok to use for leveling (last 1/2" to 1").

STRINGALATION
05-27-2009, 01:44 AM
let me get this correct. at the yard there is a pile of fines ergo dense grade with out the larger chucks. i ask because you say dont use fines for the bulk. as if i could buy the dese grade and then a load of fines to put on top of the dense grade. if i sound like i'm making this difficult i apologize but when i go to the yard i visit there amaybe 40 stacks of different aggregate. this place is not small they off load from barges so it gets cofusing as to which ones everyone is refering to....i still dont get the diff. between the sand for leveling and the finishing patio sand you know what you sweep with so. i need to read more

STRINGALATION
05-27-2009, 01:47 AM
ooh and love your logo

NewHorizon's Land
05-27-2009, 02:24 AM
ooh and love your logo

Thanks.



You want sand if you are doing a patio. This should be a washed concrete sand. (C33 spec). You do not want mason's sand or play sand. These are to fine and hold to much moisture plus other things that make them unsuitable.

Your dense grade aggregrate should have 3/4" and every stone size smaller than that including "dust".

Your leveling "bed" for walls should be stone dust or the smallest size stone you can get. You could use sand for the leveling bed but the stone seems easier to work with.

Any more questions just ask

STRINGALATION
05-27-2009, 12:03 PM
alright one more since this is only a 2course and cap wall that is just holding back and really just edging a 6" raised bed should i still run a drain tile. it seem the gravel will be fine but is it standard procedure to run drain tile.
thanks very much.

i want this wall to be really nice. i have seen enough wavy walls around here i want mines to look like a company installed it. i dont see alot of caps here and see everything from blocks stacked directly on top of each other without over lap, blocks upside down because the lip wont let it lay flat ,you name it trying to stand out here

NewHorizon's Land
05-29-2009, 01:38 AM
Are you saying with the 6" buried block the wall is still only 6" out of ground

STRINGALATION
05-29-2009, 03:34 AM
the blocks are 6" plus the cap. i will bury maybe 2" of the base block. . the 6" i was refering to was the height of the beds. i plan on elevating with about 2 yards of garden mix.

NewHorizon's Land
05-30-2009, 03:39 PM
Even though its a short wall you should still bury a whole block. It will add stability and help keep everything level in years to come.

STRINGALATION
05-31-2009, 12:15 AM
WELL. thanks for all the help. the wall is mostly finished. will bury next time. my supplr place did not have fines so i went with concrete sand which was more than powder. so far the job has gone ok. a little disappointed on my leveling skills. i also have to figure out how to cut a few caps. to make the turns and one end i want flush with the wall. gonna remove a small section aN raise it. the plate made that dense grade fell like i was walking on a side walk i could feel the dipS and rises. i have to be more aware of plumb. i was flat but its not plumb. pitches forward a tad bit. my first wall and man that was tough. you can check out the whole project on my thread AN OLD UPSELL

AGAIN THANKS


http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/STRINGALATION/HPIM1781.jpg

neighborguy
05-31-2009, 11:43 AM
When building a wall you need to check for level in four spots on every block. (my opinion) It sounds like you were only checking level from left to right and I am guessing in the middle of the block. I teach everyone to check the level in four spots:

1. From left to right on the front face
2. From left to right on the back face of the block
3. From front to back on the left side of block
4. From front to back on the right side of the block.

I am guessing that steps 3 and 4 will solve your plumb problem. After all that I then obviously check the longest run of block that I can.

STRINGALATION
05-31-2009, 06:35 PM
When building a wall you need to check for level in four spots on every block. (my opinion) It sounds like you were only checking level from left to right and I am guessing in the middle of the block. I teach everyone to check the level in four spots:

1. From left to right on the front face
2. From left to right on the back face of the block
3. From front to back on the left side of block
4. From front to back on the right side of the block.

I am guessing that steps 3 and 4 will solve your plumb problem. After all that I then obviously check the longest run of block that I can.
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Kylec3
05-31-2009, 07:26 PM
In my opinion...that type of block looks horrible with caps...thats probably why you havent seen it much..we have actually done a few jobs with that type of block (paverstone brand) and it looks a lot better just leaving the caps off...a lot of the nicer stuff looks really good with caps though...we use a lot of EP Henry around here