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bobzam
06-06-2009, 09:01 PM
I am going to try a carburetor from ebay first but considering replacing the motor on my Encore 48k200. I really don't want another Kawasaki if the parts are going to just go away - this also needs a new peerless trans so I may be putting about $900 into it...
My trans is 5 speed w/reverse but there are no numbers on it to determine if it is the 9 or 36 spline - 1 gear works fine so I will likely use it until it gives out completely. I only use it for my residence and it is less than a 1/2 acre. Any advise on what model Brigs would fit? Can/should I bump up the hp over the 12.5 fb460v? The deck and everything else are in fantastic shape so I don't want to just go grab another used one for 800-900 and face the same thing in a few years.

Breezmister
06-06-2009, 10:28 PM
I really don't want another Kawasaki if the parts are going to just go away - ...
My trans is 5 speed w/reverse but there are no numbers on it to determine if it is the 9 or 36 spline

A Kawasaki replacement engine for that is the FH430v As for the Peerless, there should have been a little tag on the back, what I can tell you is that it is a 700 series. You will have to take one of the Jackshafts off to see what spline you have.
If you need any of the manuals, just Google your md. number.

DT Lawn Care
06-06-2009, 11:01 PM
Ya, I had one of those 460v's go out, and I'm looking for a good used motor now. I swore to myself I would never buy one of those again unless it was like brand fricken new.

I'm looking to replace with a Kohler Command single, because it looks to have the same output shaft and bolt pattern as the 460v. I have 4 of these Commands, never any serious problems, aside from a choke problem once and a bad coil on a 20 year old one (still runs strong):).

Good luck

WhitakerServices
06-07-2009, 10:39 AM
the problem in your trans may just be worn keys. If that is the case the parts are only about 50$ or so. The repair is not that hard to do and is something that all belt drive walk behind owners should know how to do. My scag needs keys about every other year.

bobzam
06-07-2009, 07:44 PM
Think this may work? http://tewarehouse.com/PA-41582
"If you are using this engine to replace an FC420V Kawasaki, make sure the oil filter placement of the Kohler doesn't interfere."

I don't see why the oil filter would be in the way? Maybe the muffler???

WhitakerServices
06-08-2009, 11:17 PM
It should bolt right up. However you will have to be sure that the crank will accomidate your mowers pulley/pto setup.
I have had a few 15h Kohlers and I wouldn't expect much power gain over the 13h kawi.
the Kawi always seemed to have more torque than the Kohler.

B&A lawn care
06-10-2009, 07:18 AM
We replaced the FB460 in our Emark WB with 13HP Honda and love it. Small Engine Warehouse has great deal on them right now at $469 to your door. Was a direct bolt in deal mechanicaly. Simply remove the supplied tank (if you need to) and hook up your fuel line, The wiring change over was dead simple for all but the most challanged electricaly. We also made up a battery box and hooked up the electric start but you dont have to as it starts easily. I think we could pay for the conversion in fuel savings alone.

Here is a link to the Honda.
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=GXV390DET3

bruno_rs
06-13-2009, 11:23 PM
I am going to try a carburetor from ebay first but considering replacing the motor on my Encore 48k200. I really don't want another Kawasaki if the parts are going to just go away - this also needs a new peerless trans so I may be putting about $900 into it...
My trans is 5 speed w/reverse but there are no numbers on it to determine if it is the 9 or 36 spline - 1 gear works fine so I will likely use it until it gives out completely. I only use it for my residence and it is less than a 1/2 acre. Any advise on what model Brigs would fit? Can/should I bump up the hp over the 12.5 fb460v? The deck and everything else are in fantastic shape so I don't want to just go grab another used one for 800-900 and face the same thing in a few years.

hey bob, i used those engines (fb460v) for years... early on in my career. i have to say, that engine eats up valve seats and blows head gaskets. unfortunately the seats are pressed and not serviceable. i'm not sure why you think the carb is in need of replacement but i can tell you that is what i thought the problem was with mine. i went to the expense of completely rebuilding then brand new (carb) replacement and still had the same problem.

got tired of "valve grinding" every season so i replaced the 12.5 hp with a new 14 hp kawi... the difference was night and day. not only was it more powerful but with the overhead cam, fuel consumption was almost 1/2!!! sad to say but the japanese engines are way more bulletproof. you couldn't pay me to take a briggs. i see you're interested in kohler... only had 3 machines w/kohler (scag turf runner, 2 toro groundsmasters)... each had quirks and the fuel efficiency was NOT there at all.

my .02... i'd stick with a larger kawi or honda as a new replacement. good luck. make sure you let everyone know how you make out. hope all is well otherwise. have a good one.

DT Lawn Care
06-14-2009, 10:00 AM
hey bob, i used those engines (fb460v) for years... early on in my career. i have to say, that engine eats up valve seats and blows head gaskets. unfortunately the seats are pressed and not serviceable. i'm not sure why you think the carb is in need of replacement but i can tell you that is what i thought the problem was with mine. i went to the expense of completely rebuilding then brand new (carb) replacement and still had the same problem.

got tired of "valve grinding" every season so i replaced the 12.5 hp with a new 14 hp kawi... the difference was night and day. not only was it more powerful but with the overhead cam, fuel consumption was almost 1/2!!! sad to say but the japanese engines are way more bulletproof. you couldn't pay me to take a briggs. i see you're interested in kohler... only had 3 machines w/kohler (scag turf runner, 2 toro groundsmasters)... each had quirks and the fuel efficiency was NOT there at all.

my .02... i'd stick with a larger kawi or honda as a new replacement. good luck. make sure you let everyone know how you make out. hope all is well otherwise. have a good one.

Yeah totally agreed. On my 460v I replaced the intake valve and it made it only a little while before it quit running, and then the exhaust valve and the same thing happened. I'm sure it's the camshaft now which is absolutely not worth replacing. My 420v (14hp) is 500 times better of a motor. No problems, more power, and it has the overhead valve like you're saying so it hopefully will never have that problem at least for a very long time. By the way I have never had a machine go bad that has an overhead valve.

bobzam
06-14-2009, 12:36 PM
We replaced the FB460 in our Emark WB with 13HP Honda and love it. Small Engine Warehouse has great deal on them right now at $469 to your door. Was a direct bolt in deal mechanicaly. Simply remove the supplied tank (if you need to) and hook up your fuel line, The wiring change over was dead simple for all but the most challanged electricaly. We also made up a battery box and hooked up the electric start but you dont have to as it starts easily. I think we could pay for the conversion in fuel savings alone.

Here is a link to the Honda.
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=GXV390DET3

B&A- I ordered the Honda on Friday - hope it gets here soon. I am having trouble removing the belt and trans pulley. Any help there would be appreciated. SEW was most helpful in looking for a direct replacement. What did you use for the keyed start?

Grass Happens
06-14-2009, 12:59 PM
You guys with shift key problems: Do you knee the lever into gear while the unit is moving? That was the most common reason for those keys going out that we saw at the shop, otherwise those peerless are pretty solid units.
I have a variable speed bobcat 48 that lost the motor last year, siezed up, which pissed me off, as I am one of the most anal people you will meet when it comes to checking oil (5 years at a mower repair shop will do that to ya);however, the mower is almost 20 years old. It was my first real mower, and it still cut as nice as my new bobcat 36. I just don't want to drop 900$ into it. So I keep looking for a 12 or 14hp Kawasaki for cheap...

bobzam
06-14-2009, 08:51 PM
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/3/7/0/0/5/webimg/276959899_o.jpg

B&A lawn care
06-14-2009, 09:23 PM
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/3/7/0/0/5/webimg/276959899_o.jpg

What you have there is a QD type taper lock bushing. The two holes that did not have bolts in them are the pusher holes to remove the bushing and are threaded. The same bolts should work, Usually the threads will need cleaned out in the pusher holes. A tap is used for that, If you don't own a tap and die set you can try running the bolts in 'till they get stiff and back them out oiling a bit and back in again, sometimes that will get you by. Once past that you simply run the bolts in evenly against the pulley and tighten them and it should push the pulley off the hub. You asked about the switch, we used a replacement switch that we purchased at a mower shop. Can get a number but there is two basic types, you need the one for a magneto that grounds a kill wire for stoppingthe motor. Should easily be able to get it locally

bobzam
06-15-2009, 09:38 PM
Thanks for the tip - worked exactly as you said - made room to get the gear puller under and took it off with ease - can't wait to get the new engine in and back to cutting. Going to throw on a new trans belt that may just solve the problem of the 2-5 forward working on level ground and slipping up hills? If not I'll try the keys. I never shift while moving - but it has always been this way since I got it. When I took it to a mover shop (didn't know better) they just said I needed the 4 wheel belts and it really made no difference at all.

bobzam
06-17-2009, 10:50 PM
Engine arrived and of course the grass is high and it's raining. The oil filter was in the way of the deck mount so I hit it (deck mount) with the saw-zaw and it fits fine now. New belt seems to have a much tighter fit and doesn't slip nearly as much in the higher gears. Not perfect though? Engine has a lot of power and didn't seem to struggle at all with wet, high grass.

Didn't hook up the 2 wires from the safety switches because I was a bit confused and wanted to cut as quickly as I could with the rain expected to be here for a few days. B&A I must be electrically challenged. The diagram seems to me that the kill switch wire should hook up to 1 wire and I guess I ground the other? I am not hooking up the starter just yet but would like to know the simple sequence there.

B&A lawn care
06-18-2009, 08:43 AM
Hey, Glad all went well, Did you notice your fuel tank didnt go down near as fast? LOL. You have the safety switch wiring nailed if it is the same as our Exmark. Remember that the safety system is just a long loop in the kill wire circuit. I am not where I can go look at our mower at this time so I am going from memory (dangerous thing) so please double check my wire colors. There is a gray wire in the engine harness, this is the kill wire and one of your safey harness wires goes to it, the other is grounded as you summized. This same wire will kill it when you add your switch for electric start. You probably noticed but the Honda also has a kill switch over where you hooked up your throttle cable. Pull the throttle back hard past idle and it will also kill the motor.

Ours is well broken in now since we have been using it all spring and the fuel usage is unbelievably low. Anyone who runs one of the old Kawa's commercialy could pay for the Honda real quick IMO

I can post the starting motor wiring but be patiant with me,going to be gone for a few days.

bobzam
06-18-2009, 09:55 PM
Hey, Glad all went well, Did you notice your fuel tank didnt go down near as fast? LOL. You have the safety switch wiring nailed if it is the same as our Exmark. Remember that the safety system is just a long loop in the kill wire circuit. I am not where I can go look at our mower at this time so I am going from memory (dangerous thing) so please double check my wire colors. There is a gray wire in the engine harness, this is the kill wire and one of your safey harness wires goes to it, the other is grounded as you summized. This same wire will kill it when you add your switch for electric start. You probably noticed but the Honda also has a kill switch over where you hooked up your throttle cable. Pull the throttle back hard past idle and it will also kill the motor.

Ours is well broken in now since we have been using it all spring and the fuel usage is unbelievably low. Anyone who runs one of the old Kawa's commercialy could pay for the Honda real quick IMO

I can post the starting motor wiring but be patiant with me,going to be gone for a few days.

Thanks B&A I hooked it up the way described - the kill near the throttle is the one I used and the other to ground - it worked. I'm not sure if I will end up doing the switch and battery where the old tank was or "make it fit" with the tank back on. I'll post a picture of the before and after in a day or 2.