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ron mexico75
06-08-2009, 01:51 PM
Installed a set a couple of weeks ago for a walk behind and they are awesome! One thing though I guess I didn't consider. I use my trailer to haul mulch once in a while. Once these things are installed it appears they cannot be removed unless you unscrew them due to the straps being fed through the chocks BEFORE you screw them down.

Anyone else run into this? Did you just through the mulch or dirt over top of them and let them get all nasty? Guess this is one of the drawbacks. DOH!!!

ALC-GregH
06-08-2009, 02:30 PM
Not sure what you mean by putting the straps on before you screw the chocks down. I have no problem at all threading the straps through with them in place. At first I left the straps on which made it harder to shovel the mulch, now I take the straps off AND lay a tarp down before I have them fill it up.

ron mexico75
06-08-2009, 04:03 PM
Not sure what you mean by putting the straps on before you screw the chocks down. I have no problem at all threading the straps through with them in place. At first I left the straps on which made it harder to shovel the mulch, now I take the straps off AND lay a tarp down before I have them fill it up.


Well I guess what I'm saying is; I threaded the chocks with the straps before I screwed them down per the instructions. So, they are threaded through the bottom of the chocks which you can't really get to once installed. Does that make sense? Or, is there another way to thread them? It looks like I could maybe thread them like I initially did by going under the chocks and grabbing the strap tip with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Sorry to be possibly blowing something minor out of proportion.

DRBLawnBuster
06-08-2009, 08:52 PM
yes i ran into the same problem. Mine are also threaded through the back so its hard to take thme out.

ALC-GregH
06-09-2009, 08:54 AM
maybe you guys are not trying hard enough. I can remove and re-install them in a minute. Sure it's tight but it's really not hard at all.

DA Quality Lawn & YS
06-09-2009, 09:13 AM
I agree you cannot re-strap the fastraps without un-screwing the chocks from the floor.
So, what I do is put down a big piece of cardboard over both the chocs/straps if I am hauling mulch/dirt/trimming debris. Not a perfect solution, but it works.

Mowbizz
06-09-2009, 10:09 AM
Installed a set a couple of weeks ago for a walk behind and they are awesome! One thing though I guess I didn't consider. I use my trailer to haul mulch once in a while. Once these things are installed it appears they cannot be removed unless you unscrew them due to the straps being fed through the chocks BEFORE you screw them down.

Anyone else run into this? Did you just through the mulch or dirt over top of them and let them get all nasty? Guess this is one of the drawbacks. DOH!!!


I have a dump trailer for mulch jobs but used to use a tarp when I used my lawn trailer for hauling mulch and debris. I don't think the fastraps will mind being covered up...

I would also duct tape them in place under the tarp as well...just to eliminate sharp edges under the tarp...maybe even do a sheet of luan plywood over them to ensure you're not going to hack them up with the mulch fork??


B y the way I just installed my fastraps last week and I love them...!:drinkup:

ALC-GregH
06-09-2009, 10:29 AM
I agree you cannot re-strap the fastraps without un-screwing the chocks from the floor.
So, what I do is put down a big piece of cardboard over both the chocs/straps if I am hauling mulch/dirt/trimming debris. Not a perfect solution, but it works.

I guess I could set-up my video camera and take a video clip of how easy it is to thread the straps through the chocks while bolted down. :) It's so easy a caveman could do it. :D It's all in manipulation of the strap.

BCNU
06-09-2009, 01:19 PM
I ran into this problem also. I can take my straps off or put them back on without removing the chocks in less than a minute or two. You just need a little pocket screwdriver and a pair of neednose pliers. I always take my back pack blower and blow the mulch out of the chocks before reinstalling.

Supper Grassy
06-09-2009, 03:16 PM
If you are really concerned you could use bolts so you would be able to take the chocks off the trailer deck

DA Quality Lawn & YS
06-09-2009, 04:19 PM
I guess I could see how you could rethread the straps with a needlenose pliers.

ALC - please watch your references to your fellow industry-men as cavemen. We have a little more smarts than that.

ron mexico75
06-09-2009, 05:07 PM
I guess I could set-up my video camera and take a video clip of how easy it is to thread the straps through the chocks while bolted down. :) It's so easy a caveman could do it. :D It's all in manipulation of the strap.


Ha ha ha ha....cavemen could do it? Now are we all supposed to make mad faces and walk away?:laugh:

Yes post a video just for the hell of it. I'll watch it. By the way, I'll have my stop watch out as I'm watching.......nah not really.

The idea about cardboard and a tarp are all good. On a serious note though, post a video because that is always better then words over the internet.

ALC-GregH
06-09-2009, 06:10 PM
I guess I could see how you could rethread the straps with a needlenose pliers.

ALC - please watch your references to your fellow industry-men as cavemen. We have a little more smarts than that. It was a joke, get over it.

Ha ha ha ha....cavemen could do it? Now are we all supposed to make mad faces and walk away?:laugh:

Yes post a video just for the hell of it. I'll watch it. By the way, I'll have my stop watch out as I'm watching.......nah not really.

The idea about cardboard and a tarp are all good. On a serious note though, post a video because that is always better then words over the internet.
It rained most of the afternoon here, it will have to wait.

ALC-GregH
06-10-2009, 06:50 PM
OK, I took the time to make a very short video clip of me un threading the strap then threading the strap back into the metal chock. I think it took 20 seconds! :D Here's the link, hope it works.

http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e160/americanlawncare/?action=view&current=MOV01631.flv

Richard Martin
06-10-2009, 07:39 PM
Quick and easy. That's how mine work.

Hey Greg, big boys run Nitro Methane, not batteries. :)

ALC-GregH
06-10-2009, 07:58 PM
Quick and easy. That's how mine work.

Hey Greg, big boys run Nitro Methane, not batteries. :)

hahaha that's a buddies Camaro. He's working on a huge motor for the car. 750+ci! He's a nitrous freak for the most part. :) I guess that's what your talking about? :D

Richard Martin
06-11-2009, 03:33 AM
hahaha that's a buddies Camaro. He's working on a huge motor for the car. 750+ci! He's a nitrous freak for the most part. :) I guess that's what your talking about? :D

Nah, you have 4 pics of an electric buggy on page 5. Looks to be 1/5 scale or something like that.

ALC-GregH
06-11-2009, 08:13 AM
LOL, I didn't think anybody on here knew what that stuff was. That's a friend's Baja 5B converted to brushless. In this case, the brushless set up in it is by far the fastest I've ever seen a 5B move. After he had it finished, he let me wheel it for a bit. I couldn't pull the trigger more then 1/2 throttle and it would leave 2 ruts in the grass down to dirt. Ungodly wheel spin it had sooo much power.

But I do agree, nitro is much more realistic and fun to race. I ran nitro 1/8th scale buggy every weekend for about 8-9 years. Won god knows how many events over the years to include the ROAR region 2 championships in 2000, region 2 being a 4 state region. I was TQ at most of them. I drive pretty strapped up when I'm racing. Always pushing it to the edge. LOL Around 2000, guys use to see me pull up at the track and say "great, he's here, now we don't stand a chance at winning this weekend. LOL I raced r/c cars for over 15 years. Could have bought a farm with the money I blew on r/c stuff. It started costing too much to race at even a club race. I'd spend $100+ each weekend to club race and well over $300 at big events. I guess you could call me a big boy. :D

ron mexico75
06-11-2009, 08:31 AM
thanks for the vid. I'll have to check mine out this weekend.

On mine I had to straddle 2 of the deck boards with the chock rather then centering it on one. What type of bolts do you have on them? I can clearly see its not the stock screws. Did you mount wood blocks underneath your trailer deck for the bolts to go into. Or, are they the same length as the stock screws?

Only reason I ask is I think I want to upgrade because I do overkill on everything I do.....especially eating wings :laugh:

ALC-GregH
06-11-2009, 08:45 AM
thanks for the vid. I'll have to check mine out this weekend.

On mine I had to straddle 2 of the deck boards with the chock rather then centering it on one. What type of bolts do you have on them? I can clearly see its not the stock screws. Did you mount wood blocks underneath your trailer deck for the bolts to go into. Or, are they the same length as the stock screws?

Only reason I ask is I think I want to upgrade because I do overkill on everything I do.....especially eating wings :laugh:

Ron, hope the short video helps. I used 3/8x2.5in carriage bolts with fender washers under the bottom. No extra wood blocks needed. I also opened the existing holes in the chocks up to allow the square carriage to fit through the chock.
It wouldn't bother me if the chocks are on 2 different boards. As long as you have them tightened down good. If at all possible, use a bolt all the way through the boards, not the wood screws they provide.

I love the fastraps. I use them (same location) to strap my Grizzly 660 down on the trailer. I'm thinking about getting another set for the Quick dually I have on the way.

ron mexico75
06-11-2009, 10:00 AM
cool man I appreciate it. A vid. is always better then words even when it assume to be simple. Yeah I bet having another set for the Grizzly would be great. They are so damn nice to have after you have used them, kinda wish I had invented them!

Yeah, I think I will change over to the design you did with the bolts. You'd think they would come like that stock you know? You're holding down I would assume a minimum of a 36" walk behind which start around 450-500 pounds if you're using fastraps in the first place.

michaelee2
06-11-2009, 10:43 AM
Maybe they have theirs different than I have mine but I thread and unthread my fastraps every week. Takes about a minute to thread them up and I do not have to remove my chocks either. Maybe you put them on wrong or something. :confused:

dwost
06-11-2009, 12:23 PM
Mine just showed up yesterday, can't wait to install them!

ALC-GregH
06-12-2009, 07:19 AM
cool man I appreciate it. A vid. is always better then words even when it assume to be simple. Yeah I bet having another set for the Grizzly would be great. They are so damn nice to have after you have used them, kinda wish I had invented them!

Yeah, I think I will change over to the design you did with the bolts. You'd think they would come like that stock you know? You're holding down I would assume a minimum of a 36" walk behind which start around 450-500 pounds if you're using fastraps in the first place.

Ron, I use the same fastraps on both the mower and 4wheeler. The mower is a Scag Tiger Cub. Weights in at 1100.

ron mexico75
06-12-2009, 09:04 AM
Oh yeah I know. I was just saying in general, if a person is using fastraps then they are probably using them on a 36" at a minimum which would be light compared to 48's and riders and ATV'S.

If I had a rider like you do, NO QUESTION I would be using the bolts. Seems like the screws they provided would be a liability when holding down 1100 plus pounds that is moving on a trailer.

ALC-GregH
06-12-2009, 09:33 AM
Oh yeah I know. I was just saying in general, if a person is using fastraps then they are probably using them on a 36" at a minimum which would be light compared to 48's and riders and ATV'S.

If I had a rider like you do, NO QUESTION I would be using the bolts. Seems like the screws they provided would be a liability when holding down 1100 plus pounds that is moving on a trailer.

That's why I used 3/8 bolts. :) In your case, I wouldn't worry if the chock over laps onto another board. Bolt them down with 3/8 bolts. You'll have to open up the holes on the chock as well. The chock will give it enough strength to hold just fine once bolted tight.