headlock or a firm grip?

[RhettMan]

what do you use for rotor head work?

[Wet_Boots]

Slip-Joint Pliers

http://tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:T9WlNQcI_ocSbM:http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/57/5768_300.jpg

[Mike Leary]

Slip-Joint Pliers

Takes two to tango; one to hold the body and the other to unscrew the cap.

[RhettMan]

the reason i ask is because i found it aggrevating that the pop-up head kept wanting to slide back down as I adjusted the head from 180 to 90 etc. and it would have been nice to have my left hand free

maybe i should just adjust while the head is operational(up)....

i do need some slip joint pliers boots, and thanks mike for reminding me to get two...

[Mike Leary]

maybe i should just adjust while the head is operational(up).....

That's really the best way, but do it in small increments; otherwise get set to eat water when you adjusted the wrong way. Not that I've ever done that. :rolleyes:

[Wet_Boots]

For something like a PGP, you can wait until it pops up. There are little holders made for them, which support the head after you pull it up with the key. Never used them.

[Tony Clifton]

Don't need no fancy tools, just a little practice and awareness and you will make out fine.

[AI Inc]

For something like a PGP, you can wait until it pops up. There are little holders made for them, which support the head after you pull it up with the key. Never used them.

They sure do come in handy for nozzling an I-40

[Mike Leary]

They sure do come in handy for nozzling an I-40

Those springs are so freakin' strong, even those holders are hard to get on.

[AI Inc]

Ever get bit in that little spot between the thumb and index finger? I think its worse then a slide bite from an auto handgun.

[unit28]

Ever get bit in that little spot between the thumb and index finger? I think its worse then a slide bite from an auto handgun.

or retrieving an arrow with a broadhead out of a target.
Morel of the story...imposable thumbs aren't user friendly.

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

If I grab a rotor stem while it is up to make arc adjustments I always turn clkwse. I hope that it will make a 180 if needed. If not then the pliers come out to finish off. Every now and then I get one that won't make the 180 and it will be too loose coming back so I leave tight to the nipple take out the body and reinsert as close to where I want it to be. In other words don't get lazy and turn it counter clkwse to get the stops set.

Comprehende?

[Wet_Boots]

The PGPs will ratchet, so you can goof up and fix it when the zone turns on.

[RhettMan]

If I grab a rotor stem while it is up to make arc adjustments I always turn clkwse. I hope that it will make a 180 if needed. If not then the pliers come out to finish off. Every now and then I get one that won't make the 180 and it will be too loose coming back so I leave tight to the nipple take out the body and reinsert as close to where I want it to be. In other words don't get lazy and turn it counter clkwse to get the stops set.

Comprehende?


si, gracias amigo

[unit28]

chanca,

con javes..retrieva las stema para arriba.
agallalo avaco, Y topa.
con implemento...trabajo el sprinkle rapido..no camino:laugh:
--------

Peter:..indicar el camino a alguien
:clapping:

[Kiril]

1) Never use up all the threads when installing
2) Adjust when system is not pressured up by spinning head to check stops
3) Fine tune arc & radius when running

[Wet_Boots]

Never use up all the threads?

[Kiril]

Never use up all the threads?

Try to keep that gray matter together Boots.

[hoskm01]

1) Never use up all the threads when installing





I do this, too, especially with rotors. Leave 1/4 turn or so so that the head has some play with the set side. If you tighten it down all the way, how will you take the set back without unscrewing the head (not body)

[Mike Leary]

I do this, too, especially with rotors.

That's what's such a neat feature on the RB 5500 rotor; you can adjust both sides of the arc. :clapping:

[Wet_Boots]

I ask, because using Marlex elbows sometimes didn't allow any installation slack. Back off a bit from tight, and it's all loosey goosey. It was brand-specific, or a combination of brands, of head and elbow.

[RhettMan]

"USE NO PIPE DOPE"..........this left me scratching my head

[Wet_Boots]

Old paste-type pipe dopes weren't formulated with plastic in mind.

[RhettMan]

Old paste-type pipe dopes weren't formulated with plastic in mind.

OHHH

by the way, let say i have a rainbird 5000 with left fixed( for example)....

after tightening the head onto the threaded fitting all they way, would it be acceptable to loosen the head within one 360 rotation to position the fixed side where i want it to spray?

of course, followed by setting the right side with the tool

[mitchgo]

why not just leave a thread or two exposed, then you can tighten instead of loosening to have your correct set?


Slip joint???? They are called Channel Locks!

[RhettMan]

why not just leave a thread or two exposed, then you can tighten instead of loosening to have your correct set?

yes this to,

I guess the better question would have been..

Is it okay to not tighten the head ALL the way?

[Wet_Boots]

ChannelLock is a brand name - slip-joint pliers covers all brands, including those kickass Knipex pliers.

[Wet_Boots]

You get a feel for what's tight enough. Modern marlex ells seem to give you some wiggle room.

[RhettMan]

1) Never use up all the threads when installing


i just noticed this, you had already answered it for me

[RhettMan]

and hosk did too,

my brain just isnt firing right today i guess