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View Full Version : Cub 33" drive cable workaround.


dishboy
06-14-2009, 04:23 PM
With 49 hours on my Widecut 33 the drive cable where it mounts on the handle bar started to fray. I knew this was going to be a issue and no way was I going to be into a new cable every 50 hours so I robbed the Bell crank, Bell crank support and rods that ran the blade engage off a old duel idler Exmark Viking. While I was at I rotated the handle to the other side of the bar and disabled the brake that locks the tranny if you release the drive without the blades running which was a major inconvenience. Big improvement in ergonomics and operator comfort!

dishboy
06-15-2009, 12:45 AM
I guess there's not to many cub owners eh?

greenred
06-15-2009, 01:15 AM
Nice ingenuity

Richard Martin
06-15-2009, 03:50 AM
Why did you buy such a lightweight mower?

I mean, that a nice job you did upgrading it and all.

kaferhaus
06-15-2009, 09:19 AM
Why did you buy such a lightweight mower?

I mean, that a nice job you did upgrading it and all.

Actually I (the champion of ONLY buying commercial equipment) just bought (stole) one of these used with 12hrs on it. The reason being is we have a few residentials with large back yards that only have a 36" gate that has required 2 guys with 21" mowers to cut it in order to keep up with the guy on the ztr doing the front yards. Now all three guys are getting finished cutting at about the same time which has cut 10 minutes off of those jobs as all three can then go to trimming, edging and blowing at about the same time.

The mower leaves a good cut, is faster than any 21" walk behind both in area cut per pass and ground speed. It is NOT a commercial grade mower but is constructed better than the average residential mower and with the limited use we'll be putting it through should last a few years. I paid half of what a new Honda 216 would have cost.

I'd like to see more pictures of your modifications to this mower... the top mounted handles are a PITA and make the machine a bit awkward to operate. In fact my first thoughts were on moving the controls under the bar. I did not realize it had a transmission brake at all.... that's likely the other isssue with manuverability. Pulling the machine backwards without shifting it into reverse is a PITA. Did your disconnecting of this cable solve that issue?

I'd appreciate any other mods or solutions you come up with. I've only bought this thing last week from a guy who started up a service and quickly found out he couldn't compete (IE: wasn't as easy as he thought it would be).

Jason Rose
06-15-2009, 09:32 AM
dishboy: Great upgrade! That's how they SHOULD come from the factory. Looks just like the old design troybilt used now. I know the mower will be 100% easier to run now.

Also, the old machines just had a brake for the drive on the same lever that also was the blade kill lever. It worked well as a brake and to move the machine with the blades off you just hold down that presence control.

TomberLawn
06-15-2009, 10:08 AM
I'm starting to have the same problem with mine. It's got about 50 hrs, I think. The hour meter is no good anymore, because I put a pull start on and just turned the key switch to ON. Friday, the cable end on the drive cable starting cracking and pulled out. I flipped it to the other side of the handle and it works ok for now, but I need to do something to it.

I'm just wondering, how hard is it to grip the lever with it on the bottom side? I like them being on top so I can just use the weight of my arms to hold them down and not really grip the handles that hard. It seems like the levers are pretty tight.

kaferhaus
06-15-2009, 10:11 AM
I'm starting to have the same problem with mine. It's got about 50 hrs, I think. The hour meter is no good anymore, because I put a pull start on and just turned the key switch to ON. Friday, the cable end on the drive cable starting cracking and pulled out. I flipped it to the other side of the handle and it works ok for now, but I need to do something to it.

I'm just wondering, how hard is it to grip the lever with it on the bottom side? I like them being on top so I can just use the weight of my arms to hold them down and not really grip the handles that hard. It seems like the levers are pretty tight.

I'm thinking the spings can be either loosened up or swapped out with lower tension springs. The spring tension is likely what's destroying the cables to begin with.

dishboy
06-15-2009, 10:30 AM
dishboy: Great upgrade! That's how they SHOULD come from the factory. Looks just like the old design troybilt used now. I know the mower will be 100% easier to run now.

Also, the old machines just had a brake for the drive on the same lever that also was the blade kill lever. It worked well as a brake and to move the machine with the blades off you just hold down that presence control.

This machine has two cables, shown on my picture that go from the drive lever and blade lever to a disk brake on the tranny. So put it in high gear to transport or load with out the blades running and release the drive and the machine comes to a ABRUPT stop. I hated this feature so I pulled the drive brake cable all the way out and wire tied. I may use a clamp instead or bailing wire on the actual arm . Since I do not think this machine is suited to hills and it does not run away otherwise I see no reason in my application for this feature.

dishboy
06-15-2009, 10:35 AM
I'm thinking the spings can be either loosened up or swapped out with lower tension springs. The spring tension is likely what's destroying the cables to begin with.

Spring tension does not seem to be great, I think that melting lead over cable in the shape they do is the issue. Selling cables every 50 hours to naive users is not bad for a company's profits. `

dishboy
06-15-2009, 10:41 AM
I'm starting to have the same problem with mine. It's got about 50 hrs, I think. The hour meter is no good anymore, because I put a pull start on and just turned the key switch to ON. Friday, the cable end on the drive cable starting cracking and pulled out. I flipped it to the other side of the handle and it works ok for now, but I need to do something to it.

I'm just wondering, how hard is it to grip the lever with it on the bottom side? I like them being on top so I can just use the weight of my arms to hold them down and not really grip the handles that hard. It seems like the levers are pretty tight.

I did not find pulling up bad, my biggest complaint with the stock design was the length of lever throw. Now I only have about 1.5" travel from full on to full off so feathering the drive in tight quarters is now really easy.

dishboy
06-17-2009, 12:20 AM
Why did you buy such a lightweight mower?

I mean, that a nice job you did upgrading it and all.

I believe LIGHT is a good thing if it mulches as well as these before and after pictures and leaves a cut like the this mower does.

kaferhaus
06-17-2009, 12:24 AM
Nice job! Hope the one I bought lasts awhile with my guys..... we'll see.