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View Full Version : what mower do U use for Gates


lawnkid14
06-19-2009, 03:46 PM
Hey i was just wondering what you do with customers that have fenced in yards. What mower do you use. Just trying to get advice.

kidcuts
06-19-2009, 03:48 PM
i usually use a 33 inch or a 21 inch mower. that works the best

razor1
06-19-2009, 04:00 PM
If it's a big yard we usually take the fence apart. :weightlifter:

freshprince94
06-19-2009, 04:09 PM
My Gravely fits through most of the gates down here. I use a crapy Toro Residential 21" anywhere it doesn't fit.

kaferhaus
06-19-2009, 04:12 PM
42" ZTRs if they have a 4ft gate and 21" or 33" WBs for 36" gates. Depending on the size of the backyard.

igotdiesel2
06-19-2009, 04:12 PM
I have a 50" WB Gravely. I can get it through a 42" gate. It is fun but I can do it. -Jason

ohiogreenworks
06-19-2009, 04:30 PM
36 inch Toro hydro walk behind

doug1980
06-19-2009, 04:31 PM
Whichever one fits in it. Makes sense I think. :)

Keith
06-19-2009, 04:40 PM
I have managed to get all of our existing customers to install larger gates. Now, when we run across a new customer with a small gate, I give them a fairly high price, but tell them if they install a 72" opening that I can lower the price substantially. Not surprisingly, people like to save money ;) On several occasions we have mowed the back yard with the 36" or 21" mower one week, only to find the gates enlarged the next.

Tharrell
06-19-2009, 05:07 PM
I decided to keep my 32" Bob-Cat walkbehind just for that. I also have a 36" Bob-Cat but the 32" will go just about anywhere. I would recommend a 32" if you can find one. Tony

ed2hess
06-19-2009, 05:47 PM
Wright Sentar Sport 36" get 98% of the gated properties and has a seat.

MileHigh
06-19-2009, 06:16 PM
I always use the biggest possible mower you can fit onto / into a yard and still have it look good at the end.

Most of time I have to use the 36" or 32". I have some where a 48" or 60" is suitable. I always make my helper mow with the 21" if needed...haven't touched one of those crappy things in a while.

jdogg399
06-19-2009, 06:20 PM
i use a 36 metro it gets in all my fenced in yards
but if you going to get one i would go 36 with hydro
a viking or something like that

KS_Grasscutter
06-19-2009, 06:26 PM
32" fixed deck Toro Tbar belt drive. The ONE that it doesn't fit in get's done with my Husqvarna commercial 21".

metro36
06-19-2009, 07:18 PM
Lesco hydro 36. If that does not fit toro 21 unless it is a big back yard then I make my lesco fit. :weightlifter:

snowjeep
06-20-2009, 12:06 AM
I have not run into a 36" gate my Gravely 34z will not go thru.

ALC-GregH
06-20-2009, 12:16 AM
Quick 36 dually.

corey4671
06-20-2009, 12:33 AM
34" Everride Scorpion FX

redmax fan
06-20-2009, 12:37 AM
32" exmark metro with 15 horse kawasaki has been a great machine for us and fits thru every gate weve ever encountered

KCfireman
06-20-2009, 12:39 AM
36" Wright Stander or Encore 36" WB.

LBLC_LCO
06-20-2009, 12:47 AM
36" Stander/ 32" Encore WB. I don't even carry a 21", the 36 pretty much gets into everywhere.

accuratelawn
06-20-2009, 12:59 AM
Great Dane gateway

KCfireman
06-20-2009, 01:02 AM
Great Dane gatewayHow do those work for you? I always thought that 3rd wheel would mess the cut up? Where @ in SW MO are you?

vateam
06-20-2009, 01:23 AM
When i got my ZTR i was debating on selling my 36'' WB... So glad i didn't b/c ended up picking up a client who has their yard fenced off into 4 sections!!! PITA!! So what i use is my good ol Giant Vac 36'' wb

topsites
06-20-2009, 01:33 AM
I learned how to make entire sections of fence removable.

If it's a big yard we usually take the fence apart. :weightlifter:

Hey, check out the 'convertible fence' section I did :)
I saw this at another customer's house and it took me a minute to figure out what it was,
at first glance I thought this looks like the most backwards redneck gate but once I 'got' it
I thought it was the most brilliant thing I ever did seen.
It makes it so an entire section of a fence becomes 'removable.'
However, it's not a gate!

The labor to do it takes some skill, I spent about 4 hours on this, my first one.
I think once past the learning stage, if I got it down good I can do one in 1-2 hours.
Mind you, I can do spindle bearings in 1-2 hours and I just replaced one of my car's convertible tops, too :p
To do it right, I would grade this job around an 8 on a level 1-10 difficulty scale for DIY'ers.

Very IMPORTANT!!!
The section of fence HAS to lend itself to it!!!
Not ALL sections DO!!!
Matter of fact, most sections do not!
However, most fences have one, maybe two sections that will work, just have to walk all around and find it.

It is done by using four hinges, to 'remove' the section one pulls the pins out of
each of the hinges, then the section lifts (carefully) right out.
To put it back in, aligning it can be a bit tricky but once it's in there just re-insert the 4 hinge pins.

Cost: $35 parts.
Tools used: Hammer, drill and a specific size bit, 4 hinges, 4 pins (I used bolts), crowbar, angle grinder, extension cords, hacksaw.
Oh, Phillips head screwdriver, heck I brought the whole tool box.

Once installed, to remove...
It helps to have a hammer and a long Phillips screwdriver handy to help drive
the pins out, also sometimes the pins need a little tapping to go back in.

In the pictures below, unfortunately I didn't think of taking pics with it removed...
But that whole section comes off, once the pins are took out of the hinges.

lyube
06-20-2009, 01:44 AM
32" or 36" walk behind.

And if I'm dumb, I might put a 72" hole in the fence from a 72" ZTR running through, thus creating an opening for larger mowers.

topsites
06-20-2009, 01:55 AM
Oh, I forgot, removable section installation steps:

Take measurements so you know what size hinges to buy, also get a very good mental picture of the hinges
that are currently on any gates for that fence, then go get those at HD or Lowe's, try your dangedest to find
hinges that look super close to the ones that are already in use at said fence, oh and 4 bolts (sorry, forgot size)
You might have to...
Take these home and with a vise and some tools like a punch and a hammer, first wrap the hinges in a cloth
then clamp them in a table vise, now drive out the existing pins, these will break off because it's a POS.
Once it's all apart, ensure you have the correct size bolt that fits through the hinges,
if you didn't get the bolts at first now you can go to HD / Lowe's with the hinges and find that,
then take it all to the fence.

Do NOT REMOVE the section of fence FIRST!!!
If you do that this job won't turn out a snug fit!
It HAS to fit snug, so it won't rattle every time the wind blows, for all practical purposes the
fence and this section should still serve its original purpose.

Instead, with the section intactly installed, deftly line up the first hinge and
after you make sure it is straight and looks good, with a pen mark the screw holes.
Then, with a drill and the CORRECT size bit!!!
This takes a few tries to get it right, if the bit is too small the screws are a PITA to drive through the wood,
and if the bit is too big the screw won't hold, it has to be JUST the right size thou it is best to start small,
if too small it's ok because you can go bigger, but once you drill too big a hole!
So, find the correct size drill bit, it might help to have a spare piece of wood around to practice.
So then pre-drill the screw holes, then install the first hinge by driving the screws into the wood with the screwdriver.
Note: Failure to pre-drill those holes will make driving the screws in to the wood next to impossible.
Repeat this process for the rest of the hinges.

Once all four hinges are installed, hopefully everything is lined up beautifully, yes?
Good.
Now, remove all of them.
Sorry, this was necessary in order to ensure a snug fit.

Once all the hinges are removed, and this is tricky as well because it can mark the wood.

But with a crowbar SLOWLY and CAREFULLY start prying the section away from the upright poles that hold it to the ground.
> Note: I found that by prying where the hinges will go, it hides the marks the crowbar will leave.

Do NOT try to pull it out completely, most fences have long nails that are specifically made to hold it there and are very stubborn!
Instead, once you have some clearance, cut through the nails with the hacksaw.

Once the section is clear from the fence, take the angle grinder and carefully grind the remaining stubs of nail down to the wood.
Now, re-install all four hinges.

Should be gtg. :)

Paul's LC
06-20-2009, 02:26 AM
i just have one of those gravely waw 34 walk. not comm but it doesnt get used much. and hey it leaves a good cut too

BadRancher
06-20-2009, 03:02 AM
The trusty exmark 36" or the Troybilt 21"

lawnboy dan
06-20-2009, 09:20 AM
toro 32 tbar. what kind of nimrod has the time to install a removable gate in all his porperties? not to mention getting permission and the liability if they have a pool

silverado212
06-20-2009, 09:33 AM
32" toro t-bar gear drive or my 22" toro self propelled

topsites
06-20-2009, 11:00 AM
toro 32 tbar. what kind of nimrod has the time to install a removable gate in all his porperties? not to mention getting permission and the liability if they have a pool

The kind who...
1. Wants the account, although granted if it's just for mowing...
2. Doesn't own small deck mowers of any kind because big decks make much better time.
> Heck my 48" cuts 25% more path than a 36"
3. Can do it in 1-2 hours, which is easily made up for over a year's time.
4. Might get that customer to aerate and seed in the fall, and other stuff, too.

Permission usually comes easy, I use the angle of 'you can then get any size machine in the back yard anytime
in the future, when or if it's needed by any contractor, yourself, anybody.'
Be it a Bobcat, an aerator, a big mower like mine, a stump grinder, a chipper,
might even help you out on days you need to get something big in or out the back.
Those pictures help, it has to look good and work right, but they'll go for that!

In terms of the cost it works out, pay for it once and over and done, usually customers are willing to split this,
it's either that or deal with a PITA every time something needs doing at that house.
So it costs me some time, the first time's the worst because of the learning curve.
Don't need the truck and trailer to do it, I did this out of my car.
Either way less than $100 in parts and labor takes care of it, customer pays half.
The rest can be made up for easy on a good account.

That was just my attitude about it all.

razor1
06-20-2009, 11:12 AM
If it's a big yard we usually take the fence apart. :weightlifter:

....and then we use a 60" Exmark. Works great! (Like some others on here we have re-worked the fence and a few customers have installed larger gates)

redmax fan
06-20-2009, 11:18 AM
you make good points topsites . ive argued with my partner about ourselves installing larger gates at potential customers houses for less than $100 and at most 2 hours work and he always disagrees . so we turn down jobs right in our core area that would have been good money for years / saved us travel time for years / been easy to cut with big machine thru new big gate for not spending 2 hours and a hundred bucks , it really pisses me off :cry:

frotis
06-20-2009, 10:02 PM
This is a hell of a deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-40-TORO-HYDRO-WALKBEHIND-15HP-ZERO-TURN-LAWN-MOWER_W0QQitemZ110401176418QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b46c4362&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Dealers around me want $1500 more for this mower. Only problem is they can't deliver, its pickup only.

accuratelawn
06-20-2009, 10:49 PM
How do those work for you? I always thought that 3rd wheel would mess the cut up? Where @ in SW MO are you?

I'm in Spfld. The third wheel does leave another mark, but nobody minds.
It is an excellent trim mower with 18" of the deck hanging off to the left.

Jason Rose
06-20-2009, 10:58 PM
I use a 36" GHS Walker. Only have a couple tiny spots that I have to use a 21" on.

Widening the gates only works where there's ROOM to do so. I have a number of places that only have a few feet between structure (house or garage) and the neghibors property.

STIHL GUY
06-20-2009, 11:19 PM
i only one account where my mower doesnt fit. i use the string trimmer for the gaed in area and it takes less than 5 minutes

LouisianaLawnboy
06-21-2009, 12:06 AM
I have a 50" WB Gravely. I can get it through a 42" gate. It is fun but I can do it. -Jason

IMPOSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

redmax fan
06-21-2009, 12:15 AM
they must shut the mower off / one guy steer and push from the handles / the other guy lift it up from one side so that its on the other sides 2 wheels
and push it through :dizzy:

LouisianaLawnboy
06-21-2009, 12:20 AM
they must shut the mower off / one guy steer and push from the handles / the other guy lift it up from one side so that its on the other sides 2 wheels
and push it through :dizzy:

Long empty stretch and a ramp!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

redmax fan
06-21-2009, 12:39 AM
Long empty stretch and a ramp!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

speaking of ramp , put a ramp on each side of fence . then a cross member between the two and make a bridge to drive over :cool2:

and i was wondering when i saw youve both a redmax and shindaiwa whip which you like best . because ive ran redmax over 5 years but am considering trying a shin next whip . im wondering about any power differences between the two , plus which one holds up longest . ive been running the 2401 / 22cc redmax for its lightness because i whip 100 residentoal accounts per week with minimal heavy grass / weeds , and with the light whip i can fly faster . for past 3 years been running the new strato charged which i dont like as well as the pre strato bc225 i was running which was a excellent machine i wish they still made . if they did ide never think of changing , but this new strato charged isnt as smoothly running as the pre strato so considering changing

LouisianaLawnboy
06-21-2009, 12:50 AM
speaking of ramp , put a ramp on each side of fence . then a cross member between the two and make a bridge to drive over :cool2:

and i was wondering when i saw youve both a redmax and shindaiwa whip which you like best . because ive ran redmax over 5 years but am considering trying a shin next whip . im wondering about any power differences between the two , plus which one holds up longest . ive been running the 2401 / 22cc redmax for its lightness because i whip 100 residentoal accounts per week with minimal heavy grass / weeds , and with the light whip i can fly faster . for past 3 years been running the new strato charged which i dont like as well as the pre strato bc225 i was running which was a excellent machine i wish they still made . if they did ide never think of changing , but this new strato charged isnt as smoothly running as the pre strato so considering changing

Of course I can't talk for all the models, but the RedMax I have now is super light and runs great. I use it on everyday trimming, but if I want power or really want to roll I grab that Shindy T270. That thing is a beast. SUPER powerful. One of the best trimmers Shindy ever made.

redmax fan
06-21-2009, 12:59 AM
Of course I can't talk for all the models, but the RedMax I have now is super light and runs great. I use it on everyday trimming, but if I want power or really want to roll I grab that Shindy T270. That thing is a beast. SUPER powerful. One of the best trimmers Shindy ever made.

ok great , thanx

i was looking at a shindy 280 and really like it ,
im just thinking about if it'd be too heavy to
carry all day . plus twirl around quickly to get the
whip vertical for edging work . i'll prob stick with
redmax for work because their simple round rubber
handle and trigger fit my grip perfect which allows
me to do my best detail work , but i like that
big shin 280 so much i might buy for my personal / home machine

redmax fan
06-21-2009, 01:05 AM
i coulda swore it was a 280 i saw at dealer but at sight it looks like this below 272 , maybe the 280 is a discontinued model . but anyway this one below looks just like one i saw , it doesnt have the top lever on handle to push down which i really like . link =

http://www.shindaiwa.com/usa/en/_images/products/trimmers/enlarge/t272-1.jpg

sflannig
06-21-2009, 05:12 PM
I use a 36" Toro Proline. I have a buddy who can fit his 48" John Deere through a 40" gate. he backs it through, the wheels are narrow enough to fit through . he angles it to get one side of the deck through and then swings the other side through. its cool to see

redmax fan
06-21-2009, 05:17 PM
backwards never dawned on me , ecspecially if backwards and up on the rear wheels . then you pivot on one of the rear tires to do a 180

Florida Gardener
06-21-2009, 05:34 PM
In my area, the winning combo is a 48/52 and a 36. The 36 will fit into 90% of gates here and anything it doesn't, using a trimmer is quicker than the 21. I have a 48 Toro Z and a 36 Stander. I love the Stander for backyards, it is lightning quick and beats the hell out of a WB.

B.K.'S Lawn Service
06-21-2009, 10:11 PM
2008 32 inch Wright Stander w/ 17 hp Kawasaki electric start

MSLandscaping
06-22-2009, 01:50 PM
Here on Cape Cod, lots of small backyards. We use our 21 inch Honda, but looking to purchase a small 32 or 33 inch Walkbehind. Taking the fence apart or reworking it, seems like a lot of work, can be half done with the lawn in the same amount of time.

barlowlawncare
06-22-2009, 03:32 PM
where ever possible we take the fence apart. It's hard to make money push mowing a back yard, so if we can't figure out a way to get something in there we normally turn the job down, I think we only have two lawns that we have to push the back and the only reason we kept them is because they are long time customers and the yards only take 5mins to push

mowerdude777
06-22-2009, 04:24 PM
I will use the ferris 32, or will make a worker use a 21, but one of my workers is learning to use the 32, so I can use the 48 in the front well he is in the back with the 32

lawnboy dan
06-23-2009, 06:06 PM
taking the fence apart dosnt make sence in 95 deg heat . too much effort . there are also strict laws about how fences are to be built around pools here in fla-must have a self closing gate etc-its a huge pain and having a 32 is the best soultion.

barlowlawncare
06-24-2009, 04:32 PM
taking the fence apart dosnt make sence in 95 deg heat . too much effort . there are also strict laws about how fences are to be built around pools here in fla-must have a self closing gate etc-its a huge pain and having a 32 is the best soultion.

a 32 is fine if the yard is small but we have some half acre or better back yards that we cut and they have 36" gates but It only takes me less than 5mins to take the fence apart get in there with the xmark 60 and out again and onto the next job, I would be sweating a lot more with the wb then I do sitting on my lazer and after the first time we get the job we set it up to where we can take the fence apart and put it back together with ease wether I use bolts with wing nuts or just zipties on some as long as the home owner is ok with it I believe for me anyway its the best way to go

Jason Rose
06-24-2009, 06:29 PM
one of you guys that's even remotely close to me needs to buy my 36" walker I have for sale! (see below).

ed2hess
06-24-2009, 07:27 PM
taking the fence apart dosnt make sence in 95 deg heat . too much effort . there are also strict laws about how fences are to be built around pools here in fla-must have a self closing gate etc-its a huge pain and having a 32 is the best soultion.

We have pulled he pins on cedar gates to get in when people had them locked and they had a FIT.

barlowlawncare
06-25-2009, 10:19 PM
We have pulled he pins on cedar gates to get in when people had them locked and they had a FIT.

we always ask before we mess with anyones fences! We've actually gotten more work also a couple of the homeowners hired us to instal wider gates for them, so sometimes it pays to ask

lawnboy dan
06-26-2009, 07:04 PM
use a sulky -you wont sweat on the 32