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View Full Version : 5 HP Tecumseh Help


GravelyGuy
06-21-2009, 05:42 PM
I have a Craftsman chipper that a customer gave to me and it is like brand new. They used it about three times and left the old gas in it. The book says that it is a 97:dizzy: There was no gas in the tank it had evaporated, but when I removed the carb bowl, sryup poured out. The bowl itself was in bad shape. I cleaned everything out and I put it back on. It won't start for anything. I took the carb back off and it is floating in carb cleaner right now. The carb looks good in the upper parts and the fuel line is clear. Please let me know what I should look for here.

The engine model is 143.965021, but this is a Craftsman number not Tecumseh.

Help me out please:confused:

GravelyGuy
06-21-2009, 05:47 PM
Check this thing out it's flawless, help me get it working!

jkilov
06-21-2009, 06:07 PM
Mmmm.. a tecumseh, not the finest motor around.

I would do the usual checks, suck as compression, spark before writing it on the carb.

If the carb is oxidized badly or any nonmetallic pieces melted I would just replace the whole thing. Tecumseh went out of business so good luck finding parts.

GravelyGuy
06-21-2009, 06:11 PM
compression and spark is good, the engine is like new.

jkilov
06-21-2009, 06:24 PM
I understand you want to keep the chipper and mulch does come handy these days. I actually have bought equipment from my customers before, that mostly needed a simple fix and ran fine after. Very good deals too.

Clean the caruretor completely, yes completely. The nozzle is surely gummed up. Spray something through it, carb/brake cleaner or wd, anything you have and several times. I'm pretty sure it'll fire after that.

dutch1
06-21-2009, 08:04 PM
As long as you have spark and compression the only thing you need is fuel.

The bowl nut is the main jet for the carburetor and there are four ports in the bowl nut--two larger ones at the bottom, one down through the center and a very small one just at the end of the threaded portion of the nut. It will take a very small wire to clean the small one.

Secondly, the fuel nozzle in this carb is plastic and you will see it either from the bottom or as you look through the venturi. The nozzle has two orings(#632547), one which the bowl nut seals up against and another as it enters the venturi. You have to be quite careful pushing the nozzle out from the top as it is quite fragile, particularly at the bottom. Those orings degrade quite rapidly when left with old fuel. The oring at the top usually will stay in the carb when the nozzle is pushed out so you will need to fish it out--I use a crochet hook(actually the crochet hook is part of a Tecumseh carb tool). After installing the orings on the nozzle give the throat opening a shot of lube then push the nozzle into the throat.

Button it up and you should be good to go.

If the unit has a fuel filter, replace it. I'd also replace the needle/seat/bowl gasket(#631021B, if I remember correctly). The seat can usually be blown out with air pressure, if not use the crochet hook again. Just remember when reinstalling the seat, the end of the seat with the small ring goes to the carb body.

Dutch

If you go to searspartsdirect.com you can get a parts break by entering your model number.

4.3mudder
06-21-2009, 08:14 PM
I know my dealer I use can look up the craftsman number and get the engine information for it. I would soak the carb, thouroughly clean it, put a kit in it, and try it. Should be fine after that. Most likely the main jet is plugged.

GravelyGuy
06-21-2009, 10:06 PM
You guys are great. Do you think I can get away without removing the fuel nozzle? Do I remove it by simply pushing from the top?

GravelyGuy
06-21-2009, 10:48 PM
What is this hole that the tooth pick is pointing to? Does it need cleaning?

I can't get the fuel nozzle to move with my finger.

dutch1
06-21-2009, 11:27 PM
The hole you are indicating is plugged but your picture does bring to mind that there is a port in the barrel about a half inch, give or take, right below(inside the barrel) where your tooth pick is pointing but you may have to get the nozzle out to see/access it . I generally use a flat bladed screwdriver to push down on the nozzle through the venturi of the carb then use a pick or a short bend on a paper clip to pull it out of the bottom. I will not rebuild a carb with the plastic nozzle without replacing the orings. If the orings are damaged you will not get the proper air/gas mixture.

Dutch

GravelyGuy
06-22-2009, 08:51 PM
The hole you are indicating is plugged but your picture does bring to mind that there is a port in the barrel about a half inch, give or take, right below(inside the barrel) where your tooth pick is pointing but you may have to get the nozzle out to see/access it . I generally use a flat bladed screwdriver to push down on the nozzle through the venturi of the carb then use a pick or a short bend on a paper clip to pull it out of the bottom. I will not rebuild a carb with the plastic nozzle without replacing the orings. If the orings are damaged you will not get the proper air/gas mixture.

Dutch

I was able to get at that hole through the low speed needle hole. I blew through the hole after removing the needle and stuff shot out that tiny hole. I cleaned the carb and replaced a couple of orings that were included with a kit I bought for $7.00. The only part that I left alone for fear of breaking was the fuel nozzle, so I was able to clean everything except for the hole at the bottle of the nozzle. I cleaned the center of the nozzle very well.

Chipper works like new now:cool2: I traded it for two 39$ mowing and a $65 shrub job. I'm happy, but it's a Craftsman so I won't expect much. I did check to make sure that you could still get parts throughs Sears.com and I can. They have these units listed at $759.00 on sale:dizzy:

Thanks again for the help.