View Full Version : vinca minor
04-09-2002, 10:27 PM
I know this might seem like a dumb question but here it goes. Does anyone have an easier way to plant vinca minor than either a hand shovel or by digging a trench? The size of the vinca is 50 plants per flat. I was just trying to come up with ideas to save time planting these so any info would help.
04-09-2002, 10:52 PM
Thanks for the reply. I am a little confused by your reply though. Are you referring to a standard auger or those ones for bulbs/annuals? I am assuming you mean the ones for the bulbs/annuals. I have been looking for one of these, so if you have any idea as where to get one it would be appreciated. If we are on a different page all together, let me know that too.
04-10-2002, 04:45 AM
i have this stuff all over my yard in the spring
04-10-2002, 11:27 AM
If possible, I'll spend a little extra time preparing the area to be planted, tilling or shovel tilling. Once the ground is loose and prepped really good, I just use my hand to create hole. This is how I do seasonal color ( flowers) anyway and those are 4" pots or 18 / flat. The actuall planting goes fast.
I've also seen little auger bits that will fit a regular 5/8 drill.
Hope this helps, Landscraper.
P.S. You did say 50 / flat, right? Really small plants?
04-10-2002, 01:06 PM
Check out Musser Tree Nurseries, they sell a neat little spade-type thing for planting seedlings, you basically stab it in the ground drop the plant in the center pull the tool out and heel the hole in. Done.
04-10-2002, 01:38 PM
We have an 2 cy Echo gas auger that we can put different drill bits or augers on depending on what we're doing.
You could use a 2" or 3" auger bit on a gas powered drill to open up your holes. Only draw back here is if the soil is compacted the auger may catch easily (have to ease into the soil and back it out regularly). This will help to loosen the back fill soil, as you will have augered it out. Only draw back is that the bed soil is not well prepared and the relative success of the myrtle planting will show with time.
Best way we've found is prepare the bed with light tililng (like an annual bed) and then plant with trowel, by hand, etc. into the loose soil.
04-10-2002, 02:09 PM
Agree. Tilled, loose soil is the way to go. Soil prep is key. Plant is happy with loose soil and can't go much faster than hand planting for plants that small.
04-11-2002, 05:17 AM
a mantis tiller w/ compost tilled in to 4-6" will plant any annual /ground cover fast using hands. when we re-do annuals in beds we tilled a season ago, we'll go with pull out and auger on dewalt 14/4 cordless and two batteries. on planters we'll auger as well. they have them at Lowes or Home depot, or spend 30=50 bucks and get them from an echo dealer for thier gas drill. David
Here's how we do it- First we loosen up the soil in the entire area to be planted. Next we take a long metal prybar (like you would use for moving large stones) and poke holes in the soil at the correct spacing. Then we move through planting the vinca in each hole and backfilling each as we go. Some holes get accidentally filled in as you go, but its easy to poke new ones.Try it, it 's fast!
04-12-2002, 01:57 AM
If there is no other maintenance to be done to the bed besides planting the vinca. I would either use a hand held bulb planter or the 3' kind that you push in with your foot. We've had great success transplanting lirope this way. The method I use for transplanting lirope might work. I cut one hole with the bulb planter and then cut anther hole the lenth of the bulb cutter away(which is about 8" Meaning after the fist hole is cut I turn the bulb planter [hand held] on its side as use it a measuring guide). Using this method I can plant a row that is evenly spaced. You might try to alternate widths when planting vinca, I do this when filling areas with lirope.
Around here you can pretty much throw vinca minor or major down and it will grow. Although I would not advise doing this on a job your being paid to do. (LOL)
Good luck with this job it should be easy.
04-12-2002, 11:11 AM
As to a quick and easy method of planting things like myrtle or packysandra, there are no real 'breakthrough' methods that I know off.
Easiest method is to first prep the area that is going to be planted. You either will till, remove the grass, add topsoil, etc. Its easier if you give yourself a couple inches of soft ground to plant into, however, not necessary. For instance, in a cleared wooded area, you may be able to just plant right into the soil.
Now heres a point to be argued. In the past, when planting large areas of groundcover, we have found that it actually is easier to mulch the area first, and then plant the groundcover directly into the mulch. I have seen very good success rates with this method. One of the biggest problems with ground covers is that after you plant, it is very difficult to mulch the area without covering up/damaging all of the plants.
If you are buying the plants by the flat, planting in the mulch is better yet because you can include some soil with each plant as you pull it from the flat. When using bagged material, you don't get much soil and more or less plant bare root. The fact that you can buy the material bagged is kind of proof that you can plant directly in the mulch. As long as the medium that the plant is in stays moist, it will be ok. If you want to argue that the top one inch of soil is going to stay wetter than the top 1" of mulch you plant in, go ahead, but I don't can't prove it. Really, you are planting on the surface, not in the ground for all matters.
Also, as you plant into a layer of mulch, you dig into the ground a little bit and more or less are planting into a 'mulch/soil mix' when you backfill each plant.
If the area is to be irrigated, then you really should be able to plant directly into the mulch. I've always had excellent success with planting annuals in mulch if it is irrigated.
As for tools, anything will work to poke holes in the ground. Some guys simply use RR tie spikes to make a hole, rather I prefer the sharp end of a rock hammer to dig the holes. If the ground is soft, you can basically use you fingers to make the holes.
The bulb auger is convenient, but not necessary. You really don't need that deep of a hole....you are almost planting such things as packysandran and myrtle on the surface, not really in the ground. However, if you want to try one, I know Cerbos down in Parsippany has them in stock most of the time, and may have a few up in their hampton nursery. You see them around in other places too (think condursos' in montville has them) but its kind of hit or miss.
One last thing. When planting in mulch, or anything else for that matter, use a good fertilizer at the start. Miloganite is perhaps the best ( same thing growers use). Its a 100% organic fert that is sold for lawns, but is excellent for ground covers. You can buy the stuff at home depot next to the lawn ferts or other garden centers.
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