Blades leaving stripes of long grass?

[CK82]

Im trying to figure out what I am doing wrong, if anything while sharpening my blades. I have a RBG 3/4hp. grinder. I believe the angle is correct, and when Im finished generally I have a clean edge. Except for a few nicks every now and then. My 60" Toro leaves stripes of long grass periodically. If my blades have large nicks in them it will take days to get them ground down with the RBG. Any solution on how to remove the nicks without ruining the angle of the edge. Would a bench grinder work good just for the nicks, then hit them with the RBG grinder?

Please any advice or past experience on this type of an issue would help!

Thanks, Chris

[topsites]

I never take nicks out like that, I sharpen them the same as always and let that ding work itself out over time.
Now some folks might disagree but just thinking of how much steel I'd have to take off BOTH sides (due to balancing) makes me sick.
Three or four nicks in a row like that and I can replace the whole blade, financially I can't do that.

But as a rule those won't cause a really bad cut, I don't think I've ever noticed a difference so long it's no more than a few nicks.
Maybe you're going a little too fast at times?

[IMAGE]

not enough lift on the blades. Mowing to high to get good suction.

[Nosmo]

I may get bashed for this but ......... I don't try to remove the nicks when I sharpen the blades. I put a 30 degree bevel which is sharp and my cut on the grass is very good with no stringers.

Doesn't a serrated knife cut better than a non serrated one ?

Nosmo

[B&A lawn care]

My lawns dont know my blades have nicks either. All of mine have some nicks, "large" though, is subjective. How large? The cause of stripes of uncut grass depends on where they are in relationship to the deck. If between the blades then it could be blades that are too short, either worn or wrong to start with or a large radius worn on the leading edge. I have seen decks that have taken a big hit and are so crooked in relationship to the carrier that the blades cant overlap. If the strips are behind your front tires then you need to slow down and/or get blades with more lift. It seems like that as the blades wear and are ground back the front tire affect is more pronounced. In certain grasses and conditions the grass that goes under the front tires cannot all be lifted back up in time to be cut and you just have to live with it, or double mow it.

[DiyDave]

Im trying to figure out what I am doing wrong, if anything while sharpening my blades. I have a RBG 3/4hp. grinder. I believe the angle is correct, and when Im finished generally I have a clean edge. Except for a few nicks every now and then. My 60" Toro leaves stripes of long grass periodically. If my blades have large nicks in them it will take days to get them ground down with the RBG. Any solution on how to remove the nicks without ruining the angle of the edge. Would a bench grinder work good just for the nicks, then hit them with the RBG grinder?

Please any advice or past experience on this type of an issue would help!

Thanks, Chris
90% of the cutting is done by the first inch of the blade. That is what they taught, a few years ago, and I still believe it. If you are leaving stringers, look at the crap buildup under the deck, the blade tip sharpness, and the diagonal length of the blade. Ground down wore out blades are more trouble than they are worth. Also check blade geometry, occasionally it is necessary to make sure that the front tip of the blade is hitting the grass 1/8" to 1/4" lower than the back.:waving:

[Breezmister]

Any solution on how to remove the nicks without ruining the angle of the edge.

How about raising your cut a 1/2 to an 1 inch, picking up the stuff that is causing the nicks, change out you blades daily, slow down.

You can sharpen a blade to it's razor sharp, but hitting stones or branches or what ever and you are wasting your time trying to get a sharp edge.

As for the nicks you have, Topsites has the right idea.

[CK82]

Thanks for the reply's guys! I would say it is a combination of everything explained. When the grass is thick/long and we are cutting at a shorter length the cut is generally flawless. Like it was stated, when its more dry we cut higher and most likely there is less suction to stand the grass back up after the front caster wheel rolls over it. I think I will replace blades a little more often to keep the outer edge of the blade true, and maybe switch to a high lift when the grass is cut higher during the dry summer months.

Thanks again,
Chris

[Two Seasons]

Thanks for the reply's guys! I would say it is a combination of everything explained. When the grass is thick/long and we are cutting at a shorter length the cut is generally flawless. Like it was stated, when its more dry we cut higher and most likely there is less suction to stand the grass back up after the front caster wheel rolls over it. I think I will replace blades a little more often to keep the outer edge of the blade true, and maybe switch to a high lift when the grass is cut higher during the dry summer months.

Thanks again,
Chris

CK82:
Try adjusting your baffles on the deck for better vacuum. We are currently mowing at 4" over here.