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View Full Version : Honda HRX217 ground drive speed selector cable replacement - help needed (pics).


Roger
07-02-2009, 07:02 PM
The cable broke on my HRX217 today. I have a new one, but have found it difficult to install. I was told to take out the black panel toward the rear of the mower for access. The cable comes from the handles, down through a shroud, into the area above the transmission. A small port hole beside the transmission is enough to see the connection, but too small to work (getting the old one out, getting the new one installed.

I do not understand how to get the one panel out, so that I can get access. I was told "take out the two bolts and it will come right out." In my experience, not so!

I have taken out one bolt, and removed one nut from another bolt. But, the panel is large, and must have other connections that I don't see. Also, I believe the shutter panel will have to come out as well.

Or, is there another way to get access to the transmission from the top, so that this panel doesn't have to come out?

Any help? My machine is down for now, until I can get this cable installed.

Thanks.

Restrorob
07-02-2009, 08:09 PM
Roger,


I would remove the shutter #3 and see if that back panel then can be removed. It looks like screws #19 and #10 will let plates #4 & #5 drop then #1 & 2 with the shutter.



http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Honda/HondaWBShutter.jpg


Good Luck

mowerknower
07-02-2009, 10:48 PM
Gotta love honda cables! If you are not very mechanical you are better off sending it to the dealer. I work on those all day and they are the biggest pita cable around

Roger
07-02-2009, 10:50 PM
Thanks for taking the time to look it up on the parts diagram, and make your suggestions. I downloaded the same diagram, along with one other that includes the black section in my pics.

I had little time to spend with it today -- rainout, back out to work, then more rain, .... When I got the cable, I thought the task of installation should be easy and quick. Pretty soon, I'm realizing this install isn't quite as straightforward as I had expected.

Getting #3/#10 out of the shutter doesn't look very easy. The bolt has a flat bottom, and the top doesn't have very good access. I couldn't even see what kind of nut was on top -- that area is inside the discharge chute.

There must be another bolt to remove that is more obvious once I get the shutter out. The other parts diagram isn't very clear on the location of another bolt.

What is frustrating is the cable and hook at the end are tantalizingly close at hand. But, the working space there just isn't enough for my hands to squeeze through.

I will have to see the weather in the morning, whether I spend time then trying to fix, or get back out to work. With the weather today, our schedule is behind, and I don't want to push too many mowings over until Saturday. If not tomorrow, then I will wait until the weekend to make another attempt at repair.

dishboy
07-02-2009, 11:13 PM
Blade brake cable?. After I changed the first on on the Honda Commercial I decided a velcro strap keeping that sucker on 99% of the time was was a way better option. Have not ever had to replace another since.

Roger
07-02-2009, 11:18 PM
No, not BBC, rather the hydro speed selector cable (see thread title). But, I can see the bottom end of the BBC, and it has access. This one is visible, but not accessible.

dishboy
07-03-2009, 08:39 PM
No, not BBC, rather the hydro speed selector cable (see thread title). But, I can see the bottom end of the BBC, and it has access. This one is visible, but not accessible.


I am surprised you ate a drive cable, I think in twelve /fifteen years of using Honda I have only replaced 2.

Roger
07-03-2009, 08:47 PM
I have the mower fixed, with a new cable. I'm preparing annotated pics with an explanation on what was done. Perhaps the story will help somebody else with either cable problem, or a belt install.

Pics to follow soon.

Roger
07-04-2009, 09:37 AM
OK, here are a series of pics that cover the replacement procedure -- as I have done it. Restrorob - your ideas were on the right path. The entire procedure required a bit more, but it got me started properly. Thank you! When I made the OP, I was a bit frustrated. I took the advice of the dealer when he told me "... just take out the two bolts." I guess we can't believe everything we hear, even though we think our source is knowledgeable.

It took much longer than it should have. But, it is one of these projects, when looking back, I ask, "What was so difficult about that? Why did it take me so long?" I am never ceased to be amazed at my incompetence and stupid decisions after these tasks are done. I share all this because if either the BBC or speed selector cable needs replaced, or if the belt (engine to transmission) needs to be replaced -- most likely this is what will be needed. I hope it helps somebody else.

Machine was immediately put into service and worked well. I make no excuses for all the pics, but do ask for slack on the quality of the annotations. I only have MS Paint -- anybody have a better suggestion?

There will be several posts because each one is limited to four images (I think).

Roger

Roger
07-04-2009, 09:39 AM
More ........

Roger
07-04-2009, 09:42 AM
More ..........

Roger
07-04-2009, 09:43 AM
More ...........................

hate2work
09-20-2009, 09:26 AM
Restrorob ( or whoever knows )-

Where do you access the parts diagram for this Honda mower? Do you pay for a service that allows you access?

TIA~

Restrorob
09-20-2009, 10:33 AM
You can look up/purchase parts here;


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/parts.html

Merkava_4
09-20-2009, 11:05 AM
Roger, you might want to edit that one caption:

"Three support segments are not back in place."

Change to:

"Three support segments are now back in place."

hate2work
09-20-2009, 11:51 AM
You can look up/purchase parts here;


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/parts.html

Thanks Rob :)

Roger
09-20-2009, 08:55 PM
Merkava ... thanks for the correction. I cannot change my post here.

I'm surprised that anybody looked at the images, let alone read the commentary.

Cleve
09-21-2009, 01:29 PM
Merkava ... thanks for the correction. I cannot change my post here.

I'm surprised that anybody looked at the images, let alone read the commentary.


Not so...
This is the kind of post that makes a site like this so valuable.
And, other than having to look at the grass under the deck, you did a perfect job of photos with captions.
I have two of the older models of these and have replaced a throttle cable here and there but never the transmission one.
Now, if you would just do a like a similar photo shoot and instructions on how to do the carb rebuild, I would be most happy. Finally just took it to the dealer and let him do it.
Anyway, great post.
Cleve...:):)

hate2work
09-21-2009, 02:29 PM
Not so...
This is the kind of post that makes a site like this so valuable.
Anyway, great post.
Cleve...:):)

I could not agree more. Most people won't take the time to take pictures and post them, let alone take pictures, post them and then provide a play by play on how they did the repair.

Roger, you are the man :weightlifter:

bob
09-21-2009, 06:46 PM
Great job on the pics. I have the exact same mower. Hopefully, mine wont break in the near future.

mnms0562000
12-01-2009, 07:32 PM
[QUOTE=Cleve;3196644]
Now, if you would just do a like a similar photo shoot and instructions on how to do the carb rebuild, I would be most happy. Finally just took it to the dealer and let him do it. [/QUOTE


Let me find my camera, and I'll Start taking pictures.

deere615
12-01-2009, 09:18 PM
wow I never saw this thread before nice job on posting all the pictures! But yeah I did mine the first time then the other 2 times I took it to the dealer!

Rick54
04-23-2010, 11:32 PM
Roger, thanks so much for your posts on this drive cable replacement. I tackled this project today on the same mower that I own. I could not have possibly done it without your excellent pictures and text!!

Roger
04-24-2010, 06:07 AM
Rick, glad the pics and text helped.

I had to make a second replacement a couple of weeks ago. Unlike the first cable that had a kink at the top, right down from the adjustment point, the second one failed at the braided cable/hook connector at the top end. Most of the strands had broken where the cable is molded into the hook itself.

Before I put the new one on, I wrapped several wraps of duct tape at the top end, right below the adjustment screws point. My intent was to relieve some of the bending in the cable at that point. Knowing my first one broke at that point, I tried to mount the replacement in a way that minimized the sharp bend. However, the design just makes that change difficult. The cables need to be tied wrapped to the handles because the bag comes in and out, and the cable will get hooked if not tied down tight.

When I made the second replacement a couple of weeks ago, the time from start to finish was only about 1.5 hours, unlike the five or six the first time around. I put the mower up on a table this time (saved my back). Also, I pressure washed everything down as clean as possible before starting. Of course, I knew the sequence to take things in and out this time, and it went very smoothly. The whole process was quick and I was able to do it after my daily mowing schedule, and I did not loose any work time. I had seen the cable failing, so made the replacement before it broke entirely.

How did your cable break? I'm concluding that this cable may be a weak point in the design. Having said that, we use this machine heavily every day. The first failure happened at about 300 hours, the second one after another 350 hours. How about the hours on your machine? Perhaps I should get a cable and be prepared for another failure at mid-season this year.

Rick54
04-24-2010, 10:40 AM
Roger, my cable got caught on something while I was mowing and got a kink in it. No amount of adjusting would make the drive work correctly after that. Thankfully the new cable fixed the problem.

It took me about 3 hours to replace the cable. Like I said, without your help I would have NEVER figured it out. A lot of time was spent trying to hook the end of the cable on the clutch lever. Holding the lever forward while hooking the cable on with one hand took at least 30 minutes for me. Once that was done it went back together fairly quickly.

Please know that your efforts to document this process were truly appreciated!!

deere615
04-24-2010, 06:42 PM
yes they are a weak point for these mowers I replaced a total of 3 on my 2 mowers, But for as much use as they get they are not that bad imo

JCanaday
05-10-2010, 07:32 PM
Great tutorial! My problem is a little more simple - my drive belt has come off. I'm trying to replace it but, I'm stuck (literally) at removing the Pivot Arm (drawing item # 6). While the arm has the slots for the pin (#20), I can't make out that there is a pin in there. I have the thin plate off and, mine looks exactly like your photo (Thin plate has been removed) but, I can't get the pivot arm off. I've even tried light heating with a torch (until the base started softening). Any suggestions? This is a HRX217HXA, purchased in 2005 - if that helps.

Roger
05-10-2010, 10:17 PM
You must be using a different drawing from the one I was using. Your part numbers make no sense. Here is a link for the drawing of my mower:

http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/honda_hrx217_bbc_assembly.shtml

Maybe you could post a link to the drawing you are using. I'm not able to follow your explanation without an appropriate drawing.

JCanaday
05-10-2010, 11:00 PM
Sorry. I was referring to the drawing that was in the comment from Restorob (dated 07-02-2009):

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Honda/HondaWBShutter.jpg

My Swing Arm (6) seems to be a press fit into shaft (8) with no pin (20). Other than that, mine looks identical to the pictures in your post of 07-04-2009 - right up to the one captioned: Another thin plate covers.... But from your description, it sounds like after you removed the "thin plate", your swing arm all but fell off. After I remove the thin plate, I'm still seeing what is shown in the next picture (Thin plate has been removed) but, I don't see a pin even though it looks like there should be one there. I can't tell from that picture if your pin is visible there or not. But I just can't get that swing arm off. Did yours just come right off?

Roger
05-10-2010, 11:17 PM
post #10 shows the arm off, and my comment says "careful, the pin will fall out." Frankly, I cannot recall exactly the sequence there, but I don't remember having any trouble getting #6 off.

I'm confused about #6 being press fit onto the shaft. That doesn't make any sense. How could it be manufactured? It is possible that #6 was placed over the post, #8, when hot, and allowed to cool for a shrink fit. That procedure is not typically done for these mass marketed machines, and for a simple connection as this one. Surely, the design is intended for these two parts to be separated.

Look for another parts diagram for earlier models. Try plano, or boatsparts.net for parts manuals.

Can you shoot some pics and post? Maybe there is something more obvious at work here. There are many others who follows these threads, people that are a whole lot smarter than me.

Maybe you can look to parts diagrams for earlier models. Mine is 2009, a couple of years after your model. Perhaps there is a design change in the intervening years.

AlexK
05-14-2010, 12:38 PM
Roger,
I remembered one additional item I forgot to mention. After installing the replacement ground speed control cable, I also installed a retention tie to try to improve the alignment of the cable where it attaches to the tranny. I used one of those adjustable plastic ties of the same type used to retain the cables on the mower handle. I looped the plastic tie around the cable just behind where the cable fitting snaps into it's retainer. I also ran the tie though the end of one of those ordinary picture hanger hooks of the type made of narrow flat metal stock. With the hook secured over the lower left edge of the removable skirt section, I tightened the adjustable tie to align the cable squarely with it's retention arm on the tranny. Time will tell, but hopefully this will reduce the wear and tear on the cable at the point where the original one failed.
Regards,
AlexK

mnms0562000
05-15-2010, 08:54 PM
Sorry. I was referring to the drawing that was in the comment from Restorob (dated 07-02-2009):

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Honda/HondaWBShutter.jpg

My Swing Arm (6) seems to be a press fit into shaft (8) with no pin (20). Other than that, mine looks identical to the pictures in your post of 07-04-2009 - right up to the one captioned: Another thin plate covers.... But from your description, it sounds like after you removed the "thin plate", your swing arm all but fell off. After I remove the thin plate, I'm still seeing what is shown in the next picture (Thin plate has been removed) but, I don't see a pin even though it looks like there should be one there. I can't tell from that picture if your pin is visible there or not. But I just can't get that swing arm off. Did yours just come right off?

Its kind of just a wiggle and jiggle fit. I usually move the green knob back and forth a few times while rocking that arm. Never failed me yet

davep7
08-22-2010, 12:38 AM
Roger,

Just wanted to share with you that your post continues to be appreciated. Isn't the internet a great thing when used for good purposes. Well, my story is that I jumped into the cable replacement project much like you did. I started the tear down on Friday which was going great, I got the shutter off without any problem but like you the first time, I couldn't figure out how the rest of the job could be accomplished without the rear scroll out of the way. I didn't see that there was a bolt near the left rear wheel etc. so after an hour or so I got fed up and decided this job was over my head and buttoned everything back up and resolved to take the job to a dealer. Well I couldn't take being defeated, so I googled the job and your thread popped up - Thankfully. After seing your pic. showing the bolt in front of the left drive Wheel I was convinced I could complete the job. So this morning I went back and did the tear down got that scroll off no problem. Although getting the belt and spring off was no picnic all in all it went unbelievably fast (and no bloody knuckles!).

Got my lawn mowed today too and the speed control worked great!

Roger Thanks again for taking the time to put such a detailed post online.

Dave P Mpls. MN

Roger
08-22-2010, 06:36 AM
Dave, I'm glad the repair was successful for you. I feel the same way on some of these kinds of projects, "can't take being defeated." However, nobody ever advances or learns much until they are stretched a bit.

If you ever need to replace the handles, be sure to shoot lots of pics of the levers at the top of the handles. There are so many parts, springs, plates, etc, the parts diagram just doesn't help much. To add to the confusion, there are some extra tabs with holes that are not used. Apparently, these are parts that work for a variety of mowers. When it goes together, "sure, this is so simple, and wonder why I made it so difficult."

I'm glad the pics of the cable replacement were helpful to you.

Tomahawker
11-21-2010, 07:00 PM
Roger,

Thanks for posting such detailed pictures of the disassembly of this mower. The drive belt for the self-propelled mechanism came off on my mower, and I was stumped trying to figure out how to get to the pulley under the one-piece housing. After several dead ends, I was about to give up, when I found your post after a Google search. I'm eternally grateful for the internet and people like yourself that take the time to post for the purpose of helping others.

Thanks again!

- Drew

mustang87gt5ltr
04-20-2011, 08:44 AM
So, I don't know if anyone on here still looks at this thread, but i have a 2005 Honda HRX217HXA and this thread has helped me quite a bit... except for the last part where the cable attaches to the transmission. Instead of the hook and lever My cable has a pin that goes into the lever. It's supposed to come out the side but when I try ti remove it, it hits the side of the deck. The cable i ordered was the wrong one, and i had a previous style cable. Do i have to take out the transmission on this one?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can post pics of my transmission if it will help.
Thanks
Justin

Roger
04-20-2011, 08:52 AM
Justin, I am the one who started this thread and posted the pics, so I think I understand your problem. I am unsure, however, of "wrong one," and "previous style" cables. On the repair I made, the cable had a hook on the end. The hook was draped over a hook on the transmission.

Are you saying that your transmission has a pin & clevis connection, not a double hook? I do recall the working envelope was pretty small. If you can get some pics, maybe somebody here can help. Are you sure you have the right cable? Taking out the transmission is pretty drastic and adds a new level of complexity.

mustang87gt5ltr
04-20-2011, 08:59 AM
that was my thinking as well. I'll post pictures when i can get some good light but yes, the cable they ordered for me was a 54630-AH7-A02 where my old cable is a 54630-VH7-A011.

larryn3
04-20-2011, 05:48 PM
hi, just joined and have to replace a honda tranny cable. I have been taking things apart and putting them back together for over 50 years now and Roger has presented one of the best descriptions of how to do a procedure that I have ever followed. I never would have figured out how to get to that cable otherwise. great job Roger and thanks. larry

mustang87gt5ltr
04-30-2011, 05:15 PM
ok, well finally got ahold of Honda and found there's an adapter kit to change my tranny to the one that uses the loop.. lol. got that fixed, not just to try and get it started after 3 years, lol... Thank you again!

davidcalhoun
05-10-2011, 01:28 PM
Hi Roger,

This thread is great. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pics and the complete procedure.

I am getting ready to replace the speed cable on a Honda HRX217 HXA. The serial number is MAGA-1183789

When I looked up the cable in the parts diagram, there were two part numbers. #06225-VH7-305 and #54630-VH7-A02. Could you tell me which one I need to order?

Thanks

perryg
05-23-2011, 08:12 AM
Your help Roger has made the trip to Winnipeg Canada. Many thanks for the excellent post. I'm stuck at how to remove the collar under that bolt. It definitely doesn't fall out on its own! How did you remove it?

All the best,

Perry

tommyc3
06-12-2011, 08:46 PM
Again, thanks Roger. I was stumbling all over the internet to try to find out how to replace the belt. Your post made it very easy (although time consuming just to replace a belt).
Only issue I have since replacement is that the left drive wheel pulls harder than the right. Is there an adjustment possible?

Roger
06-12-2011, 08:54 PM
tommyc3 ... I'm unsure why the change of belt would alter the way the drive wheels are operating. Are you sure that both wheels are pulling, albeit one more than the other? Is it possible that one is not powered at all? The power coming from the transmission should be the same to both wheels.

First, make sure that you are getting ANY power to one wheel. If one is not driving at all, then something is probably wrong in the key/gear assembly at the end of the outboard shaft. Did you take one wheel (both wheels? off? There was no need for belt replacement, but you may have done so anyway for other reasons.

tommyc3
06-12-2011, 09:07 PM
Belt had popped off. I had both wheels off (before I knew what I was doing), but reassembled them. Both wheels are being driven, but when I lift the back end of the mower I can stop the right wheel with my foot, but I cant do the same with the left.

tommyc3
06-12-2011, 09:17 PM
Well Roger, all you had to do was bring up the key/gear assy and it made me wonder if I could have put one of the gears on backwards. Answer is yes I can. I flipped the right gear over and now it pulls like crazy. Thanks a ton for keeping your eye on the forum.

Tom

Roger
06-12-2011, 09:30 PM
I understand the false start about taking the wheels off, ... had plenty of false starts myself, so no explanation is needed.

I would question, "... wheels are being driven ...," and "... stop the right wheel ...." If the right one is being driven, you should NOT be able to stop it with your foot. That would tell me that the wheel is not being driven with power. Most likely, the outboard drive shaft is turning, but the key-driven pinion gear is not locked into place with forward motion. The outboard shaft has an inset, that is a square recess into the shaft near the end. It is about 1/8" wide, and 3/8" long. A small spring is set into this recess, and a key is placed over the spring.

The key engages the inside of the pinion gear. The inside surface of the pinion gear has three engagement points for forward operation only. The engagement slot has a hard angle on one side the of the slot, the other side is sloped. This allows for the gear to rotate backward when the operator pulls the mower in reverse.

My guess is that something is wrong with the pinion gear engagement with the outboard driving shaft. The key is not engaging the pinion gear, so that the pinion gear is nearly full floating. When you raise the rear of the mower, there is enough friction to make the pinion gear turn the free-wheeling wheel. But, when resistance is applied (e.g. your foot to the wheel), then the friction will no longer drive the wheel. The outboard shaft is rotating freely inside the pinion gear.

This is my first-best guess as to what is happening. If none of this makes sense, let me know. I have some pics of the pinion gear assembly. (I just changed out the lever arm to holds the rear wheel -- have yet to get some annotations, but intend to provide a similar tutorial on how to make this repair).

Roger
06-12-2011, 09:32 PM
OK, our posts "passed in the night." It sounds like I was right about the key and pinion gear not engaging.

Good to go... MOW GRASS!

marknelson
07-21-2011, 02:32 PM
Thanks for the instructions! This helped me replace my cable a couple of weeks ago.

Since replacing my cable though I've noticed that my mower is now sometimes really hard to pull backwards. I assume I must have put something together wrong but I can't figure out what it might be.

Bas08
07-31-2011, 01:02 AM
Newbie here, Okay I followed all your instructions just to get where I am today. I am trying to replace cable # 54630-vh7-000 on my Honda HRX217 HDA Mower. Where I am stuck at, there is a screw under the pulley that the cable connects to, which I believe keeps the cable in place. My question is how do I remove the pulley to get the screw out so I can remove it, and the replace it with my new cable. Thanks so much for all your help and pics. I have been so frustrated and this site has been a lot of help.

Roger
07-31-2011, 06:57 AM
Screw? The model in these pics uses a hook and loop connection. I've seen others that have a pin and clevis connection. I'm unsure what you mean by screw? Is the end of the cable connected to the control arm out of the transmission with a bolt? Is this a newer model, or one that is much older, perhaps an early design that now has been changed.

If you need to get better access, then you may have to take out the transmission. That would solve the access problem, right? If removal is needed, then you may need to take apart the parts to the outboard shafts, including the pinion gears. When both outboard shafts are clear of any c-clips, or anything else, then you can move it one side to the other, far enough to one side to take out the shaft from one side, then slide to the other side, and remove the shaft from the bushing. I am doubting that you need to go to this extent to make the cable connection.

Any pics?

Bas08
07-31-2011, 11:59 AM
There is rectangular piece of plastic attached to the end of the cable, apparently that end attaches to the top of the of the transmission by this screw. The screw locks the cable down up under the pulley. Is there a way to take the pulley off so I can attach that rectangular piece of plastic to the transmission. Access to the transmission is not the problem, its removing that one screw under the pulley. Sorry, I will try to post pics later.

wernerhal
08-01-2011, 08:03 PM
I found this thread and have the problem of connecting the cable to the transmission. My mower has the clevis and pin. I have not been able to move the pin sufficiently to clear the clevis because it hits the plastic housing. Is there a suggestion without removing the wheels, drive axle, and transmission? Thanks.
Hal

Roger
08-01-2011, 08:41 PM
wernerhal, look at post #40. This post speaks about having a pin arrangement. He found a kit to use the loop/hook connection.

However, I assume the pin still has to come out of the clevis. I don't know. Perhaps you can PM the other user to learn what he did to solve the problem. I've not seen the pin/clevis arrangement, so cannot comment about how to remove the pin. Sorry.

wernerhal
08-01-2011, 08:53 PM
Thanks, Roger.

I found the parts diagram that looks like the hook attachment adapter. But I presume that I would need to take the transmission loose to convert to the adapter. Thus, I would be able to mount the cable on the clevis without the adapter.

By the way, thanks for the picture post. I used that to tear the mower apart on my basement work table.

Hal

joecurt
08-10-2011, 10:36 PM
Roger:

Thanks so much for your post. I replaced my cable today.

Do you have any suggestions on adjusting the cable? When I finished with the replacement of the cable, the mower would not pull backwards. I did some adjusting, thought I had it fixed, but it still locked up when I tried to pull back once I started mowing.

Again, your post was a lifesaver!

Roger
08-10-2011, 10:41 PM
Joe, the problem is most likely in the wheels, not the cable. Did you take off the wheels? Will the wheels drive when power is applied?

Roger
08-10-2011, 10:42 PM
Actually, I should have been more specific in my question. Did you take off the pinion gear that meshes with the gear in the wheel?

joecurt
08-11-2011, 04:50 PM
Actually, I should have been more specific in my question. Did you take off the pinion gear that meshes with the gear in the wheel?

Roger:

I removed the left wheel to gain access to the side bolt, but I did not remove the pinion gear. The drive works perfectly when going forward but the wheels are locked when trying to pull it backwards (95% of the time, every once in awhile it rolls free).

Roger
08-11-2011, 10:24 PM
Joe, a couple more questions:

1. What speed range do you have going forward? When the speed selector lever is in the Turtle position, are you getting much, if any, forward motion? When pushed to the Rabbit position, do you have to run to keep up?

2. Have you made adjustments to the jam nuts on the anchor position beneath the handle? If not, how did you make a decision where to make the adjustment position?

I am thinking that you have the wrong position at the anchor point. The present position of your cable is pushing the arm at the transmission too far one way or other, thus locking up the outboard shafts. Normally, when you pull the machine backwards, the outboard shafts are spinning. Maybe your adjustment position is wrong to the extent that the transmission is not allowing the outboard shafts to spin.

P.S. I asked the above questions, wondering if you removed the pinion gears thinking it would help get access to the cable/transmission connection. And, in the process, the pinion gear was reinstalled wrong. The three machined grooves on the inside of the gear are cut differently, one edge is sharp, the other is sloped -- all three of them are cut this way. The sloped edges permit you to push your machine ahead when no power is coming from the transmission -- that is the click-click-click you hear when pushing the mower, engine off. Since you did not take the gears out, you did not get them reinstalled incorrectly.

joecurt
08-15-2011, 09:30 PM
Roger:

I diagnosed and fixed my problem tonight, couldn't stand the thought of using the mower again without being able to pull it backwards.

The control shaft on the transmission was releasing 99% of the way, but the last 1% was disengaging the forward motion but not unlocking the transmission. There are two spots side by side on the transmission case where one end of the coil spring under the control arm can fit it. I thought I had it in the same spot as it was when I disassembled the first time. Maybe not. There is no way to move the spring without totally disassembling again and removing the control arm.

I tried the lazy man's way first, WD-40, to no avail. I grudging took everything back apart and moved the spring anchor to the adjacent slot. It works perfectly now.

Again, thanks so much for your time to do your original post and to answer my questions. Your help was invaluable.

Joe

Roger
08-15-2011, 09:38 PM
thanks for sharing your finding. Perhaps your comment will help somebody else.

Just curious, how did you find this thread? Your post about this topic was your first -- implies you joined LS for this topic, right?

joecurt
08-15-2011, 09:49 PM
That is correct. My cable busted on one of our 105 degree days and I didn't enjoy pushing the mower like the old days. I did a google search, looked at lots of useless pages, then came across your post for replacing the cable. I did not plan on registering until the problem pulling the mower backwards came up.

I am in the home improvement business but not the lawn service business. Just one of those guys who doesn't like to pay someone for something I could fix myself. I am intrigued, though, by LawnSite.com. I like to take care of my yard and see a wealth of information here.

That is, of course, unless my registration is revoked since I have "come out of the closet" as not being a lawn and landscape business owner:)

Thanks again.

bob
08-17-2011, 10:15 PM
In post #10 , 4th picture, ( the honey comb part) what sizesocket do I need to remove the bolt? I'm replacing my BBC cable and tried every socket, but can't seem to find the right one.

Roger
08-17-2011, 10:23 PM
bob, ... I don't remember. It must be either 1/2" (more likely) or 9/16".

If I recall correctly, I used a socket on the end of an extension, then a ratchet to loosen. I doubt a deep socket would reach, without an extension.

Sorry, can't be more specific...

fcasteve
09-11-2011, 03:35 PM
mustang87g55ltr:

I have the same issue you ran into with the Honda HRX217. My old drive cable broke, part number: 54630-VH7-A011. The replacement cable is 54630-VH7-A02. You mentioned that you got a kit that converts the transmission from pin (A011) to loop connector (A02). Where did you get the kit? Do you have a part number?

gama27
10-12-2011, 02:34 PM
You need Honda part # 06225-VH7-305 ARM CABLE KIT.

larryn3
04-21-2012, 08:54 AM
Hi, last year I found this thread after discovering that I had a broken cable on my HRX217. Thanks to Roger's great tutorial I was able to replace it. However, when I replaced it last year, I wasn't very comfortable with the way that the cable's rectangular loop fit on the transmission lever. I tapped it on but it really didn't seem to fit correctly. There is a spring end that sticks up close to the lever and the lever itself didn't quite seem made for the loop. Anyway, I left it the way I could only get it on, replaced everything and the mower worked fine for last season. This season, after a couple of uses, it wouldn't travel forward. I took it apart, found that the loop had come off the lever so I'm putting it back on again but thought I would see if anyone has any other suggestions regarding this part of the repair? Also, for what its worth, my mower really doesn't travel very fast even at high speed. Not sure though how fast it should travel as I received this mower last year with the broken cable so never used it new. As you know, there is not much working room around the lever and taking out the tranny looks like something to avoid unless absolutely necessary. Thanks for your reply. larry

Roger
04-21-2012, 09:14 AM
Wow, this old thread lives on! I can't remember the number of PMs I've received as a result of this thread, as well as postings here and other threads. When I put this together, I never imagined it would have this kind of usefulness.

Do a search on other threads about this topic. As I understand, Honda made a change on the connection between the cable and the lever out of the transmission. I think a change was made on the hook/loop to (or from?) a clevis/pin.

As I recall, the loop went over the lever well -- no question it was made to fit. So, if you saw it wasn't a clean and simple fit, then something isn't right. Maybe you have a mismatch on lever and cable connector. From other threads, I believe Honda made a conversion kit -- some device that made the hook cable and the clevis lever work properly. It must be something very small and short to fit in between.

What is the part number of the cable you are using? I have a spare and can compare. I don't think I have a good picture of that connection. Had I realized this was an issue, I would have taken more care to document.

Roger
04-21-2012, 09:15 AM
Oh my, ... I posted, then scrolled back up the thread and find posts related to the conversion kit. This is what I was speaking about. Maybe this is what you need.

Sorry, ... I should have reread the last parts of the thread before I posted.

larryn3
04-21-2012, 09:37 AM
Roger, thanks for your super fast reply. My cable number is 54630-VH7-A02. When I read the posts on the "cable conversion kit", it seems like that kit is for older models that now must use the A02 cable. At least that is how it appears to me. My mower is only around 5 years old. I tried to look up pictures of the kit just to be sure but couldn't find anything useful as I thought perhaps that could be a factor. Something is amiss however, as when I installed the cable last year, I had to adjust the nuts at the control lever to the extreme end of the adjustment in order to get the mower to move forward at what I think is pretty slow anyway. Of course, I can get to the cable quite quickly now after doing this twice, but would like to resolve this before reassembly this time if i can do it before the lawn needs its next mowing. I haven't posted pictures to this site yet but if it will help, I will draw a picture of the lever and loop and post it. I don't think I can take a picture that will be helpful but I can try that too. larry

larryn3
04-21-2012, 10:45 AM
here are two pictures that show the cable "installed" on lever

Hoosemon
04-29-2012, 04:11 PM
Roger - I had to register for this site just to say Thank You for taking the time to post instructions and pictures for the Honda Transmission cable replacement.

You saved me a tons of time and cussing!

Thanks again!

Hoosemon

Roger
04-30-2012, 08:11 PM
Hoosemon, you are welcome. I am glad it was useful to you.

I never dreamed that this thread would still have legs. Obviously, many posts are included in the thread, but I've also handled many PMs as well. Clearly, my post has created much more response than any other LS thread that I've started.

leon2245
08-13-2012, 05:19 AM
Would this belt & cable replacement issue you're all doing be covered by honda's 5yr warranty on this mower (I understand it's quicker & easier for everyone here to just do it themselves, I'm just curious)?

And what's the difference between the hrx hydrostatic drive that makes it not free roll in reverse, where the hrc does?

Roger
08-13-2012, 06:42 AM
I have no idea about the warranty. Like you stated, it is quicker to do these repairs yourself that wait for somebody else to do them, warranty or not.

The HRX217 does roll free in reverse. I'm not sure what your question means.

leon2245
08-13-2012, 07:45 AM
The HRX217 does roll free in reverse. I'm not sure what your question means.

Oh, okay. I just noticed some resistance when rolling the hrx217 on showroom floors, compared to snappers & even honda's own hrc216 models, which all rolled much smoother. Either way it's obviously not much of a real world issue if you haven't even noticed the increased resistance.

Actually even snappers have a little resistance, but still less than the hrx. The hrc216 is most impressive- it rolls just as freely as its push hrc version, & I was just curious why. Figured you guys who have gone this far into them might know (sorry for the off topic).

Roger
08-13-2012, 07:56 AM
Oh, okay. I just noticed some resistance when rolling the hrx217 on showroom floors, compared to snappers & even honda's own hrc216 models, which all rolled much smoother. Either way it's obviously not much of a real world issue if you haven't even noticed the increased resistance.

Actually even snappers have a little resistance, but still less than the hrx. The hrc216 is most impressive- it rolls just as freely as its push hrc version, & I was just curious why. Figured you guys who have gone this far into them might know (sorry for the off topic).

The pinion gear coming from the outboard shaft of the transmission remains engaged in a ring gear on the wheel. The pinion gear has a spring-loaded cog that engages in one direction,but has tapered inset for reverse motion. The gears remain engaged at all times, so when the mower is pulled backwards, the pinion rotates on the shaft, with the cogs cycling across the tapered insets. You will hear clicking when pulling in reverse (while mower is shut down), as the cogs pass across the insets.

Other mowers may have a complete release, making them feel different when pulling in reverse.

leon2245
08-13-2012, 11:48 AM
Thanks, I thought something was resisting there. Shame they just didn,t replicate the hrc's drive.

Roger
08-13-2012, 07:46 PM
Thanks, I thought something was resisting there. Shame they just didn,t replicate the hrc's drive.

More and more replications of the HRC, then you have the price of an HRC.

Reverend Truth V Wicked
08-26-2012, 04:46 PM
Roger -

I stumbled upon this thread when I was looking for what parts I needed to repair my mower. Thanks for posting this. I don't think I would have figured this out on my own. Who would think you'd have to remove so many parts for what should be a simple cable replacement?

Mine is an older mower and I needed the conversion kit for mine. I took a few photos to help folks that need to take this extra step.

To get to this point, I had to remove the belt and the tensioning spring before pivoting the transmission down to get at the cable.

Roger
08-26-2012, 07:57 PM
Rev ... I'm glad to know that this thread was useful to you. As you have gathered from the previous posts, others have found it useful too. When doing a Google search, it comes up near the top of the list, when using some reasonable search words.

But, you have made a significant addition. Others have talked about the older models, adapter, etc, but nobody has posted good pics like this. Your pics should be helpful to others who are in need of making this repair to their older models.

Thanks for taking the time to document and to post. I'm sure others will appreciate your efforts.

topalka
09-14-2012, 10:08 AM
More ........

Hi Roger,
Your posts have been VERY helpful, but I have been unable to get the control arm off of the pivit point. My mower was purchased in 2004, but the layout looks the same as yours. Is there something I'm missing
Tom O.

Roger
09-14-2012, 11:00 PM
Hi Roger,
Your posts have been VERY helpful, but I have been unable to get the control arm off of the pivit point. My mower was purchased in 2004, but the layout looks the same as yours. Is there something I'm missing
Tom O.

Tom, apparently your mower is similar to the one of Rev ... Wicked. On my original post, with the pics, my new cable only needed to be looped over a hook. Rev ... Wicked has an older mower that requires an adapter plate. As I see his pics, it looks like the adapter plate does fit over the post coming from the transmission.

As I understand your question, and understand what Rev ... Wicked did (plus others) with the adapter plate, your question is best directed at those with the older mower. I'm sorry, but I help. Maybe others who have used the adapter plate can reply with useful information.

topalka
09-15-2012, 12:28 AM
Tom, apparently your mower is similar to the one of Rev ... Wicked. On my original post, with the pics, my new cable only needed to be looped over a hook. Rev ... Wicked has an older mower that requires an adapter plate. As I see his pics, it looks like the adapter plate does fit over the post coming from the transmission.

As I understand your question, and understand what Rev ... Wicked did (plus others) with the adapter plate, your question is best directed at those with the older mower. I'm sorry, but I help. Maybe others who have used the adapter plate can reply with useful information.

Roger,
Thanks for the quick reply. I've attached a couple of pics of the control arm part that I'm trying to remove. This part of my unit looks just like the parts in your photos. I don't think it has anything to do with the cable or adapter plate....just can't see how it is removed from the pivot point (your description in your photo).
Until I remove it, I can't take off the honeycomb black plastic piece to access the cable end. I've soaked it in penetrating oil thinking that the corrosion is preventing its removal and tried to pry it off without luck. I can see the pin which allows the selector rod to move the control arm, but don't know how it is removed.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Tom

tmabry
09-19-2012, 07:26 PM
You can't just end this story with a bunch of repair pictures, and leave us all hanging!
Unless I missed it, we all need to know what has happened to the original mower, and how this story has played out.
Is it still alive or dead? If it is still alive roughly how many hours?
And lastly, please give a final summation if you would purchase again.
Thanks

Roger
09-19-2012, 09:07 PM
tmabry, ... oh the mower was put into use immediately. In fact, after many, many more hours, the cable broke again. Making the repair the second time took only about an hour. Bear in mind, the original post on this thread was more than 3 years ago.

It has run lots of hours since these pictures. It is now in semi-retirement, as strategy has shifted. Hand mower use is far less than last year, and the years before.

Would I buy another? In a heartbeat without giving another mower a consideration.

AYRTIME
09-22-2012, 09:07 AM
Spare Bushing??
Thankyou for all the great pics and info. I have just successfully completed the clutch cable replacement.

One concern is a left over part. I have a chrome coloured bushing about 5/8" long with about 5/16" ID hole left over. This part dropped out during disassembly and I was unable to locate its proper "home". Any help appreciated.
Richard

Tomahawker
11-11-2012, 12:03 PM
AYRTIME,

I think the part you are referring to is in the image below from Roger's original post:

http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153795&stc=1&d=1246714701

It's a sleeve for the bolt that attaches the top deck to the lower deck piece. I imagine it is needed to keep the deck pieces in alignment and to prevent the bolt from crushing or cracking the plastic deck pieces.

Hope that helps!

AYRTIME
11-11-2012, 01:18 PM
Yes thankyou I figured it out by retracing parts and where I found the bushing.

Wouldn't you know it. I had a new belt but didn't replace it while I was repairing the cable.
Ended up a couple of weeks later tearing the mower apart again to replace the drive belt.
Works like a charm and I'm getting pretty good at the disassembly and reassembly!
Thanks all.
Richard

bryan535
09-27-2013, 08:42 PM
Thanks so much for this thread. From start to finish it took me 2 hrs.

Billscaping
09-27-2013, 09:04 PM
If this site can give me answers like this on all my equips,I'm a happy landscaper,great stuff,really :clapping:

jberg53
05-04-2014, 03:50 PM
Roger, thank you very much for posting pics and sequence of tear down, would have never figured it out! As some of the other posters I needed the attachment kit also, that was a job in itself. All back together, started up, made some adjustments on drive speed and gonna go mow. Again Roger Thank You for your great pictures.

JB

zackslandscape
05-04-2014, 04:25 PM
have fun with it

Roger
05-05-2014, 09:00 PM
jberb53... glad to hear the photos and descriptions helped. When I made the first posts in July 2009, nearly five years ago, I never dreamed the thread would have this kind of life. I continue to be amazed at first-time posters make comment about the photos and descriptions. Had I realized they were going to be this useful, I would have done a better job. :)

I don't know how people are finding this thread. WWW is a huge enterprise, with all kinds of information, and to narrow down to this thread for the specific issue is quite amazing.

Maybe I should give up mowing and move to documenting repair jobs.

JATPOL
07-15-2014, 08:31 PM
Roger, thank you for your post. It was very helpful and I ended up replacing the cable on my HRX 217, but after I replaced the cable, my transmission arm control level doesn't want to go all the way back. It only goes halfway and is stuck in that position and my lawn mower goes very slow due to this. Also, the clutch cable seems to be loose because of the arm and it isn't going all the way back. Would you know a way to fix that?

Thanks again for your post. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :)