PDA

View Full Version : vanguard 5 mounting


Mike M
07-15-2009, 09:07 PM
Joey or anyone having used the vanguard or similar fixtures;

If the fixture protrudes beyond the lip of the slab, I may want to cut the brass plate that comes with it to match flush. I would also drill two holes to mount the plate to the slab.

My question is whether anyone has used a product like Loctite or another adhesive for this type of application. A Kichler rep I met once recommended this.

My next question, I sold my vise, so if I have to make that cut I'd just assume run to a shop and have someone cut the plates for me. Dumb question, but would that be a welder? None of my neighbors have benches, drill presses, etc.

emby
07-15-2009, 11:54 PM
Hey Mike, I am sure that Joey will respond but here is what I have experienced with the Vanguard 8's. I just installed ten of these on a block wall with a cap stone. The mason with a masonary saw grooved out a notch for the wire and took a little off the stone to allow for the thickness of the plate on the Vanguard. He uses Bulldog adhesive on all of the stones and that is what we used to mount the Vanguard. He then glued the top stone down and I got to tell you they look amazing. Great little fixture for colums and stone walls that have a top stone. As far as cutting the bracket goes I am pretty sure that a vise and a sharp hack saw would do the job. A portable band saw would also be good. Hope that helps you out.

Ken

Mike M
07-16-2009, 07:49 AM
Ken,

Have you done retro jobs with the vanguards?

I am wondering if the adhesive alone would be adequate. I'd rather not have to drill up into the cap, this is all older stuff reclaimed/rebuilt for the wall.

Mike

JoeyD
07-16-2009, 09:46 AM
Hey Mike, I am sure that Joey will respond but here is what I have experienced with the Vanguard 8's. I just installed ten of these on a block wall with a cap stone. The mason with a masonary saw grooved out a notch for the wire and took a little off the stone to allow for the thickness of the plate on the Vanguard. He uses Bulldog adhesive on all of the stones and that is what we used to mount the Vanguard. He then glued the top stone down and I got to tell you they look amazing. Great little fixture for colums and stone walls that have a top stone. As far as cutting the bracket goes I am pretty sure that a vise and a sharp hack saw would do the job. A portable band saw would also be good. Hope that helps you out.

Ken



Great advice right here. I have not personally installed one but our in house field training guy says this would be the best way to do it.

You can cut that bracket/plate down. A 4" disc grinder with a cutting wheel would slice through the brass like butter!

I would not recommend gluing the entire fixture in a retro job because I could imagine it being a real PITA to get the fixture unstuck should you ever need to replace or repair it. Not saying the fixture will fail but anything could happen so keep preventative maintenance in mind. Just Anchor it in would be my advice there.

Good Luck!

JoeyD
07-16-2009, 09:50 AM
I wish I had some better install pics but here are the best I have of the Vanguard....

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/lighting/Newfolder013.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/lighting/Newfolder012.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/lighting/Newfolder015.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/lighting/Newfolder028.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/lighting/DSC023382.jpg

BrandonV
07-16-2009, 03:45 PM
joey, not knocking anyone's work but I hope the contractor came in and leveled those steps out where your light is, that really bothers me.

JoeyD
07-16-2009, 03:52 PM
yeah I noticed that too.....I am sure he would have, that isnt even remotley close to being level. I am sure they grooved in for the wire and what not.

JoeyD
07-16-2009, 03:53 PM
Re Post.....sorry

wbaptist
07-16-2009, 05:22 PM
When flush mounting the Vanguard. Remove the two shroud screws you will see two screws holding the the socket mounting plate to the mortar plate. Remove the two screws and replace with an anchor style screw. This allows you to mount the fixture without the mortar plate. Review attached PDF of Vanguard without mortar plate.

JoeyD
07-16-2009, 05:53 PM
Thank you William George Baptist IV, Unique Lighting Systems Cheif Engineer!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f13/xbbox/Smileys/eusa_clap.gif


LOL

Mike M
07-16-2009, 09:43 PM
Thanks, Chief! I plan to do it the way as described, but if the fixture protrudes a little, it will be exposed without a top, so I will go buy a carpenter vise, and hack the plate down to size and drill two holes in it.

Joey, I already asked a local hardware store dude-girl-owner regarding use of my 4.5 grinder as a circular saw, and I was told it's been done but advised against it because of the rpms on the grinder are way more than a circular saw.

I sold my vice and my circular saw at a flea market. I went a little crazy. That was before I decided to bring my truck to AK.

JoeyD
07-17-2009, 09:34 AM
Mike you just need a cutting wheel. We use them all the time for fabricating our off road toys. You can also buy the masonary blades and use them to widen the expansion joins in concrete. Your hardware person didnt know whatthey were talkin about.....

It will look like this but in 4 or 4.5" diamater. Go to a local metal supply house.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/ulsjoeyd/Flap-Cutting-Wheel-for-Metal-T41-40.jpg

Mike M
07-17-2009, 04:29 PM
Cool, Joey. I bought the grinder for the masonry blade to open up expansion joints, but I didn't know if I could use it to cut metal.

Mike M
07-17-2009, 04:32 PM
Joey,

I was on the job today looking over the lip on the wall. It is made of antique bricks and the surface is not even in all areas. Gut shot, should I still avoid an adhesive? I'd hate to crack one of those bricks, but it shouldn't be a problem to drill them.

JoeyD
07-17-2009, 04:40 PM
Drilling them would be best but you have to make the call. I would hate for you to mess the brick up.