Iron for green up

[lawncuttinfoo]

I see a lot of granular ferts with 2% iron, think this will do anything or is a 100% iron spray really needed for true greenup?

[shovelracer]

Ah yes 2% is plenty, 3-4% is a lot. You are not going to apply 100% to anything, I'm sure the label mentions something about suggested rates.

[JDUtah]

First, you will never find 100% Iron, as the iron atom must bind to another to form a stable solution. Second, even at that, you will be diluting it.

Second, 2% iron is hit and miss. It depends on the application rate. If you are applying a fertilizer with a high N concentration you might be better with 3-5% Fe. If you can't do the math to know how much iron per K (or acre) you are applying as you apply 1 lb N per 1,000 sqft (or acre)... or you don't know how/why N% and Fe% relate to each other... you shouldn't be applying anything yet IMO.

[lawncuttinfoo]

If you can't do the math to know how much iron per K (or acre) you are applying as you apply 1 lb N per 1,000 sqft (or acre)... or you don't know how/why N% and Fe% relate to each other... you shouldn't be applying anything yet IMO.

LOL your horse is not as tall as you think.

Lesco 24-0-11 2%FE 50%PPSCU:
covers 12K per 50 lbs = 1.33 oz FE per 1 K Sq Ft
there are my numbers, want to follow with your own numbers and suggestions or just more generalizations and assumptions?

[JDUtah]

LOL your horse is not as tall as you think.

Lesco 24-0-11 2%FE 50%PPSCU:
covers 12K per 50 lbs = 1.33 oz FE per 1 K Sq Ft
there are my numbers, want to follow with your own numbers and suggestions or just more generalizations and assumptions?

Sorry if I offended. It surely wasn't my intent. I am glad to hear that you know the how. Many people on this forum don't. :drinkup:

You wanted a specific answer but gave a general question, so sorry for the generalizations. Now that we have more specific numbers we can get to more specific answers. But before that...

The why... why can 2% Fe be enough Iron in one fert mix but not another? It should be easy to answer now.

[lilmarvin4064]

most acid clay soils don't need iron. but it helps. many sandy soils need it. If you're soil is over 7.x pH, you need to spray iron. sulfate is faster but stains worse than sucrate. 18-0-18 4% iron is much better than 24-0-11. my 2cents

[mngrassguy]

I can see using iron to enhance color but to use it to force dormant grass to green up...idk.

[lawncuttinfoo]

I can see using iron to enhance color but to use it to force dormant grass to green up...idk.

What do you suggest? N?
This guy waters every other day/every day and its still going brown. It's been a very mild summer here no extreme heat.

He's been with his fert and squirt guy for 35 years so I dont want to infringe on that but I suppose I'll ask what was put down prior.

[mngrassguy]

I would need a lot more background info in order to recommend anything. It doesn't sound like drought dormant.

What time of day is he watering? How much? Are you cutting at 3-1/2" tall?

If he already has someone ferting, don't even consider doing something extra.

Is he in the NW suburbs?

[Smallaxe]

What do you suggest? N?
This guy waters every other day/every day and its still going brown. It's been a very mild summer here no extreme heat.

He's been with his fert and squirt guy for 35 years so I dont want to infringe on that but I suppose I'll ask what was put down prior.

Plug the ground and see what is going on in the root zone. 'Water everyday' - is a meaningless point if there is no way to know where the water goes. Many soils are hydrophobic and have thatch problems that can no longer withstand the sun for more than 4 hours per day.
Plug the ground and check. Most likely solution is - aeration - once the weather starts to cool.

[JDUtah]

Plug the ground and see what is going on in the root zone. 'Water everyday' - is a meaningless point if there is no way to know where the water goes. Many soils are hydrophobic and have thatch problems that can no longer withstand the sun for more than 4 hours per day.
Plug the ground and check. Most likely solution is - aeration - once the weather starts to cool.

I'm curious. If it needs it, why wait to aerate?

Lancuttinfoo, still waiting on the why...

[mngrassguy]

I'm curious. If it needs it, why wait to aerate?

Lancuttinfoo, still waiting on the why...

Aerate during the hot, dry part of summer could kill a lawn.

[JDUtah]

Aerate during the hot, dry part of summer could kill a lawn.

enlighten me?... how? documented cases? Studies? Personal experience? I haven't killed one lawn yet aerating it in 85 to 100+ heat.

I have saved a few though...

[mngrassguy]

I've never killed a lawn by aeration but I saw one that was. Of course, it wasn't watered afterwards but I'm not going to take that chance.

Also, aerating in 85 degree heat might kill me.:laugh:

[Smallaxe]

I'm curious. If it needs it, why wait to aerate?

Lancuttinfoo, still waiting on the why...

We have a brown dried out dead spot, freshly killed/dormant grass. It has to be green in 2 weeks. I am going to aerate by hand, overseed with AR, rake it smooth, add a lot of compost, rake in some more AR, and soak.
Next step will be to soak again, then soak again, and so on.

Just aerating and leaving the plugs laying about and the holes cut, baking in the sun, doesn't do the roots any good, when they are exposed in those cut holes.

[growingdeeprootsorganicly]

aerating is best done in the spring or preferably the fall.

less stress to root zone, less OM break down, less chance of stirring up summer weeds seeds, plus theres a right time to do every thing and the summer is not the time for that.
just IMO