View Full Version : 44-0-0 vs 34-0-5 fert
americanlawn
07-16-2009, 08:21 PM
Wondering what your thoughts are: 34% vs 44%
If you want to apply approximately 0.9 to 1.0 lb N per 1000 s/f in late summer/early fall, why not go with the 44-0-0 XCU slow release instead of the 34-0-5 XCU slow release? (both are XCU formulations & 25% slow release, which roughly equates to a 35% SCU).
I saw only one difference - applying 2 lbs per K of the 44-0-0 = less bags needed. I should also mention that the 44-0-0 was less dusty, and it seemed to last longer than the 34-0-5 (green turf).
rscvp, thanks.
lilmarvin4064
07-16-2009, 09:35 PM
it would depend on the SGN. standard prill fertilizers SGN like 200 to 250 should be put down at no less than like 2.8 lbs/M, otherwise you could get speckling and reduced "area of influence" especially with combo produts. For this rate, get a fairway or grees-grade product... or get >50% slow-N product and use a 1.5#N/M rate!
mngrassguy
07-16-2009, 10:35 PM
Only downside I could see would be a greater chance of miss application-striping.
americanlawn
07-17-2009, 08:55 PM
Good point. We found the 44-0-0 25% XCU to be less dusty that the 34-0-5. We used the 44-0-0 late fall & early spring and had no streaked lawns whatsoever. We use Spyker spreaders (288 push spreaders & T3000 ride-on spreader/sprayers). When we use up the 34-0-5 we'll switch to the 44-0-0. Less weight to push in the spreader, and less product to carry for our ride-ons. Plus outstanding results. BTW 25%XCU equates to approximately 35% SCU. We use the standard prill size for turf instead of the fine particles that GOFF course greens get -- doesn't blow in the wind as much, and it spreads way better.
Only downside I could see would be a greater chance of miss application-striping.
dmcenery
07-18-2009, 11:49 AM
Larry,
What comprises the rest of the N in the mixtures? Is it just urea or is there some ammonium sulfate in there as well? XCU might last longer than the old SCU but I'm not sure if the color is as good. Also how about the longevity of those two mixes, how many weeks are you getting out of them?
DUSTYCEDAR
07-18-2009, 11:55 AM
humm ill think about this
RigglePLC
07-18-2009, 03:46 PM
Do you need the potash? If soil tests indicate a need--or if heavy sprinkling or rain has washed it away--you need it.
rcreech
07-18-2009, 04:40 PM
If product quality is similar...I would then look at cost/k. Mis-application doesn't really concern me all that much, but I would use a much higher slow release (50% SCU).
The higher the N (slow release) typically the cheaper/k, and also less bags to handle.
Both are BIG when going over large acreages...saving $$$$/k on inputs really adds up.
That is really the only thing I think about!
I never sacrafice quality for price...but price is important!!!!!
greenskeeper79
07-20-2009, 06:37 PM
I think both fertilizers will make the lawn look good for 2 maybe 3 seasons and then everything will go to hell. Too much N, not balanced at all.
rcreech
07-20-2009, 09:05 PM
I think both fertilizers will make the lawn look good for 2 maybe 3 seasons and then everything will go to hell. Too much N, not balanced at all.
Couple questions Greenskeeper,
You say too much N...
Why do you say that?
Here in OH we put on between 3,5-4 lbs of N/K.
Do you think that is too much N????
And what do you mean by being balanced?
If a lawn has good P, K and pH and no clipping removal in minimal...then why would anything other then a good N diet be needed?
lilmarvin4064
07-21-2009, 08:32 PM
I think what he means, and what a good general rule is, KEEP your N to K ratio no less than 3 : 1 ! over the long term.
Think Green
07-26-2009, 12:47 PM
Volatilization and denitrification can cause atmospheric losses of nitrogen fertilizer. Although these losses usually are not considered a health or pollution hazard, they can reduce the efficiency of nitrogen fertilizer applications, resulting in greater costs and reduced turf quality.
Volatilization occurs when nitrogen is converted to ammonia gas (NH3) and escapes to the atmosphere. It is more likely to occur following surface applications of urea or ammonium-containing fertilizers. Losses are favored by high soil pH (basic or alkaline conditions), high temperatures, sandy soils, and thatch. Watering-in applications of urea and ammoniumcontaining fertilizers wil reduce volatilization in turfgrass.
Denitrification takes place in saturated soils when anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that survive in the absence of oxygen) convert nitrate to N2, a gaseous form of nitrogen that escapes into the atmosphere. Turf that survives in poorly drained soils often turns yellow in wet weather owing to denitrification. Improved drainage at these sites will reduce N2 losses.
What month ferts are applied makes the difference in certain locals. But are we making a lawn grow efficiently or are we making hay for forage.??
44/0/0 is 2.27 lbs. per K
34/0/5 is 3 lbs. per K plus potassium!
Which one is cost effective to purchase? At those application rates which one is better for your schedule and costs? Do you need potassium? Or do you need just straight nitrogen?
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