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andubailey
07-20-2009, 02:11 PM
I recently killed off all my grass in my backyard and seed with K31. The K31 seemed to thrive all spring, but has completely died off when the tempratures hit the 90's. I watered it twice a week for 15 minutes at a time on weeks it didn't rain. I live 30 miles south of Atlanta and am wondering if tall fescue will work at all in my area. My backyard is shaded, but receives about five hours of direct sunlight per day. My front yard was sodded with emerald zoysia a few years back, but thinned out in lightly shaded areas of my yard. Will fescue, bermuda, or zoysia work best for me? My yard looks like crap and I don't want to invest in the wrong grass again.

RAlmaroad
07-20-2009, 03:52 PM
I would plant St. Augustine or Centipede with temps in Ga. Fescue is a cool season grass. It goes dormant with the heat. Don't want you to feel hurt, but the real problem is not enough water. 15 minutes, 2 times a week is nothing for sod. Not even a drop in the bucket. You need to be watering until the ground gets wet down about 2" or more. Try this: Water that lawn every day for 45-60 minutes and see if it does not green up. If it don't then the sod is dead...But if it does, at least you know. On the coast, the sand leaches the moisture so fast that most people have got to water every day or at least every other day for an hour and a half. Of course, fertilization is required monthly for most of our warm season turf. St. Augustine is a Nitrogen lover to the tune of 1lb/month during the growing season. Centipede gets about 1/2lb nitrogen/month. Centipede like acidic soil while St. Augustine will do better at mid range pH of(6.5+/-).Why did you kill of that beautiful Zoysia? The thinness could have been salvaged. We had a lot of winter kill on the Centipede, but with proper care; it has completely grown back and cannot tell it full of naked spots. The only tell-tale spots are in the semi-shaded spots, but even it is 85% back.

andubailey
07-20-2009, 06:11 PM
I still have zoysia in my front yard and it is doing well. The problem I am having is in the back. It is mostly crabgass with a few zoysia plugs I planted this spring. I just ordered a few bags of blackjack bermuda. This is the second time tall fescue has failed in my yard. Maybe it was lack of water like you said, but this year we got hit by storm system after storm system, and it was still browning. Always mowed at 3 inches and fertized once with 10-10-10 in the beginning of spring. Some of the fescue remains around my house were the sun never shines.

simmos total turf
07-23-2009, 03:19 AM
Here in the great land of Oz, there is moves to ban it due to its massive water requirements. We have not long been introduced to Empire Zoysia and it does very well. If sod is out of your pay packet, use bermuda sprigs, very cheap way to top quality turf surface. Cast them and keep them moist for 10 days, fertilize with Chook poo, then ten days later, use 21-10-15 fertilizer. You must be patient though, takes 6-8 weeks for full cover...
Regards,
Simmo

Think Green
07-26-2009, 10:58 AM
Bailey,
I am in an area not too much different than Atlanta area.
My lawn was overseeded with K31 and Tall Fescue with Bermuda mix.
The K31 and the Tall Fescue does ok for the most part until the temps get over 90-95. The Tall Fescue will start to diminish and slow growth, the K31 will cease until cooler weather. I have 90% full open sun all day with occasional maple trees throughout the lawn. I want to wring the neck of the builder whom planted the grass. I have had to use a butt load of MSMA and Image to throw out the Tall Fescue and the odd Tufted love grass that is growing now.
My lawn goes dormant in the winter, of course, and I scalp and overseed with annual rye to keep things a little greener until early summer when the rye fizzles out.
The truth to the matter is what the other members have told you---Watering those shade grasses is essential to help them survive the heat. If these shady spots are getting less than 4 hours of light per day, then I would suggest making a bed in those areas and doing shade plants or mulching. Nothing but orchard grasses, junk weeds will grow in the deep shade or moss! Trees will compete and win the battle with turfgrasses. Ever been hunting in the woods and notice any good grasses growing under the forest floor?-----NO!! Nature's way of survival!!

10/10/10 fertilizer requires 10# of this fert per 1,000 sq.ft to apply 1# of N or 440 lbs per acre. Zoysia needs 1/2 # of N per 1,000 sq.ft. per growing month. I apply other ferts 4-5 times per season depending on drought conditions. We apply fertilizer treatments to our lawns either 32/3/6, 21/0/0/24S and water!! Lime according to soil tests and pH.
If you use the 21/10/15 you will need to apply 2 1/2 lbs of this product per 1,000 sq.ft. at 1/2 rate for zoysia. 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft will be the maximum rate per feeding.

greendoctor
07-26-2009, 02:25 PM
Bailey,
I am in an area not too much different than Atlanta area.
My lawn was overseeded with K31 and Tall Fescue with Bermuda mix.
The K31 and the Tall Fescue does ok for the most part until the temps get over 90-95. The Tall Fescue will start to diminish and slow growth, the K31 will cease until cooler weather. I have 90% full open sun all day with occasional maple trees throughout the lawn. I want to wring the neck of the builder whom planted the grass. I have had to use a butt load of MSMA and Image to throw out the Tall Fescue and the odd Tufted love grass that is growing now.
My lawn goes dormant in the winter, of course, and I scalp and overseed with annual rye to keep things a little greener until early summer when the rye fizzles out.
The truth to the matter is what the other members have told you---Watering those shade grasses is essential to help them survive the heat. If these shady spots are getting less than 4 hours of light per day, then I would suggest making a bed in those areas and doing shade plants or mulching. Nothing but orchard grasses, junk weeds will grow in the deep shade or moss! Trees will compete and win the battle with turfgrasses. Ever been hunting in the woods and notice any good grasses growing under the forest floor?-----NO!! Nature's way of survival!!

10/10/10 fertilizer requires 10# of this fert per 1,000 sq.ft to apply 1# of N or 440 lbs per acre. Zoysia needs 1/2 # of N per 1,000 sq.ft. per growing month. I apply other ferts 4-5 times per season depending on drought conditions. We apply fertilizer treatments to our lawns either 32/3/6, 21/0/0/24S and water!! Lime according to soil tests and pH.
If you use the 21/10/15 you will need to apply 2 1/2 lbs of this product per 1,000 sq.ft. at 1/2 rate for zoysia. 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft will be the maximum rate per feeding.

This is when you spray up to 2 lb simazine with the label rates of Image and MSMA. Do this in early summer or before the grass gets dry. I almost never spray straight MSMA, it is usually with Image, simazine, the first two together or Sencor. Weed grasses are one of my biggest problems. Any old clown can kill broadleaves with a hand can of Speedzone or Trimec. Don't know of any local "landscapers" that treat lawns with the mixes I use.

simmos total turf
07-26-2009, 05:59 PM
Monument Liquid is the go for grass weeds. Ryegrass, poa, fescue, grabgrass, nutgrass and even suppresses horrible kikuyu. 40ml per 1000 sqm does the job.

greendoctor
07-26-2009, 06:28 PM
Just looked it up online. Monument Liquid is sold as Monument 75WG in the US. The silly prohibition against using it on residential lawns is finally off the label. This looks like the stuff to use if zoysia or bermuda are the desirable species. The golf guys that use this here tell me it works.