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View Full Version : Some More Drainage Help


GravelyGuy
07-23-2009, 10:21 PM
Thanks for those that helped me out with the last drainage job I had going, it turned out well. I have another job here, actually several more, but we'll start slow here.

You can see in the pictures where the water comes out of the downspout and collects by the grill. I was thinking I could simply run a piece of tubing off of the down spout 10-15' away from the spot and make some kind of dry well. I've never done a dry well before so let me know what you think.

Dreams To Designs
07-24-2009, 08:53 AM
Check out NDS products, especially the Flo-Well. A catch basin at the bottom of the downspout, with some 4" PVC pipe to a properly installed Flo-Well will make that area usable again. You do have to perform some soil analysis and calculations, but the NDS Pro website will guide you.

http://ndspro.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=17

If you can, it is always best to run the downspout tubing to open air if you can get the right pitch and have a place for the pipe to empty, that won't cause another problem.The use of a Pop-up emitter will make the outlet a cleaner, less obtrusive option. I like to add a few feet of perforated pipe, a sock and some drainage rock leading up to the Pop-up. This method allows a majority of the outflow to percolate right into the ground and has prevented any Pop-ups from freezing or malfunctioning.

Kirk

White Gardens
07-25-2009, 03:15 PM
What is the grade like on the other side of the fence (behind the grill)

GravelyGuy
07-26-2009, 12:12 PM
Check out NDS products, especially the Flo-Well. A catch basin at the bottom of the downspout, with some 4" PVC pipe to a properly installed Flo-Well will make that area usable again. You do have to perform some soil analysis and calculations, but the NDS Pro website will guide you.

http://ndspro.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=17

If you can, it is always best to run the downspout tubing to open air if you can get the right pitch and have a place for the pipe to empty, that won't cause another problem.The use of a Pop-up emitter will make the outlet a cleaner, less obtrusive option. I like to add a few feet of perforated pipe, a sock and some drainage rock leading up to the Pop-up. This method allows a majority of the outflow to percolate right into the ground and has prevented any Pop-ups from freezing or malfunctioning.

Kirk


Are you saying that you think my best option would be to avoid the dry well and just run the pipe underground to the low area at the back of the property? This would be much easier. The soil in this neighborhood has a ton of clay in it so I would have to make a large dry well because it is going to drain slowly.

I helped another customer a few doors down put up a flag pole and I had to dig a 2-3' hole and the it didn't drain well at all.

The grade on the other side of the fence is acceptable. Water doesn't really accumulate there and there is no basement.

Thanks for the help.

Dreams To Designs
07-26-2009, 12:28 PM
Open air is always best. Allow it to percolate back into the soil naturally. A drywell will need maintenance in time, but sometimes it is the best solution. If a permeable layer of soil can be reached with reasonable digging, a drywell is an excellent alternative.

Looks like the area in the back was, or is a drainage swale. If it is still active, take advantage of it and the water should move away. If it has been disrupted, as is so often the case in suburban areas,you will need an alternative. A raingarden can be a worthwhile addition to most landscapes and can be created quite easily. A dry creek made is only attractive and successful if it is maintained.

Kirk


Kirk

GravelyGuy
07-26-2009, 12:35 PM
Open air is always best. Allow it to percolate back into the soil naturally. A drywell will need maintenance in time, but sometimes it is the best solution. If a permeable layer of soil can be reached with reasonable digging, a drywell is an excellent alternative.

Looks like the area in the back was, or is a drainage swale. If it is still active, take advantage of it and the water should move away. If it has been disrupted, as is so often the case in suburban areas,you will need an alternative. A raingarden can be a worthwhile addition to most landscapes and can be created quite easily. A dry creek made is only attractive and successful if it is maintained.

Kirk


Kirk

Kirk,

Can you give me some details? Should I just bury non perforated pipe, or should I use perforated pipe with a sock in a bed of gravel?

Any suggestion on how prevent erosion where the pipe exits? Simple splashblock maybe?

White Gardens
07-26-2009, 12:52 PM
Can you divert the water with a pop-up and go underneath the fence with it.

GravelyGuy
07-26-2009, 01:10 PM
Can you divert the water with a pop-up and go underneath the fence with it.

Under the fence would be directly into the neighbors yard or into the front yard. I think using the existing low area at the back would probably be best, but I'm open to ideas. I'm new to this kind of stuff.

White Gardens
07-26-2009, 07:47 PM
Under the fence would be directly into the neighbors yard or into the front yard. I think using the existing low area at the back would probably be best, but I'm open to ideas. I'm new to this kind of stuff.

I just wasn't sure if you had a good slope going to the front yard to take advantage of the grade.

Ya, definitively can't drain into the neighbors yard, but if you could go out front with it, then go for it.

Otherwise you'll have to take advantage of the low spot in the back.

GravelyGuy
07-26-2009, 08:22 PM
I just wasn't sure if you had a good slope going to the front yard to take advantage of the grade.

Ya, definitively can't drain into the neighbors yard, but if you could go out front with it, then go for it.

Otherwise you'll have to take advantage of the low spot in the back.

Should I use perforated pipe in a bed of gravel that dumps out onto a splash block, or just use a regular piece of nonperforated tubing buried underground?

Simple=better for me here.

Dreams To Designs
07-27-2009, 09:25 AM
Use solid pipe on a 1% pitch to about 5' from where you will exit, best to use a pop-up as your exit. For the last 5', use PVC perforated pipe with a sock on it in a bed of gravel, underground, leading up to the elbow for the pop-up. That way, any water that does not exit through the pop-up can slowly leach directly into the soil, minimizing icing in the pop-up elbow.

If that low area is indeed a drainage swale as it appears, it is already designed to have the water flow to somewhere where it will be absorbed back into the ground and recharge the ground water. If you dump the water into storm drains or streams, the water is usually carried away from the area and does not recharge the local groundwater.

Kirk

White Gardens
07-27-2009, 09:42 AM
I agree with Dreams. He's got you covered on this one.

I generally don't like splicing in black perforated pipe, so I drill a couple of holes in the elbow of the pop-up, and maybe use perforated PVC instead of the black flexible tubing.

I'm sure it doesn't really matter though.

The only other thing I could think of from the pics is that you might be able to play with the grade back by the grill. It appears that you have a good 3-4 inches of height against the patio to be able to push water away from it. It will help the patio last longer too.

GravelyGuy
07-27-2009, 09:20 PM
Thank you guys so much for your help/knowledge. I think that will work well for this. We'll see how it goes.:)

Dreams To Designs
07-28-2009, 09:42 AM
Ryan, it really is simple; water flows downhill, and get it to a place that it can be reabsorbed into the local aquifer. Get the water away from homes and structures and give the folks a ayrd to play in and you'll have solved problems, beautified the surroundings and made a client very happy.

You may want to suggest a rainbarrel in conjunction with your drain. You can harvest some of the rainwater to water the plants on the patio or around the garden and drain the rest away to the swale or drywell. If you do go with a drywell, try the NDS Flo-Well. It will make the job easy and more efficient. If you do go with a Flo-Well, don't put a basin & grate in the top. It will allow water to carry soil, leaves, sticks, etc. into the drywell which creates a maintenance issue. If you would like to add a basin in the area, use a standard catch basin with a side outlet, in addition to the catch basin for the downspout. A catch basin will allow you to catch and remove debris being carried in towards the drywell.

Don't forget to take some pictures.

Kirk