PDA

View Full Version : power edger for steel edge installation?


dichdoc
07-28-2009, 08:24 PM
Hey all, I have wondered over from plowsite looking for landscaper advice. I run a metal fabrication business that over the past three years seems to be focusing on welded steel landscape edging. I recently installed 480' of 1/8" x 4" steel edging as a sub for a landscaper. We had a miss communication and long story short I need to put around 280' of edging a few inches deeper into the ground. The edging goes around two raised "berm" beds filled with large bark mulch. My question is would a power edger of some type follow along the steel digging a trench to push the edging into without hitting the top of the steel causing large amounts of damage? I could rent a three wheeler for around 75 a day or buy a Sthil FC 56(string trimmer type) for $269 (locally available NOW). I'm looking at it as an investment for future installations to limit manual shovel work. My price range right now would be under $500.00. I this a viable option for the predicament I am in now and what would be a decent tool until I can buy the Cadillac Bed Shaper? Thanks Travis

dichdoc
07-28-2009, 08:28 PM
Here is a pic of some of my edging 4" on the down hill side 8" uphill wih 4" above finished patio as planting bed retainer and an 8" by 30" fire ring. All seams are welded and 1/2" rebar stakes welded around every 4'. Travis

Stillwater
07-28-2009, 10:22 PM
I understand exactly what you are talking about, Their is a hub on the edger cutting head on most stick edgers that would probably get in the way, if you removed the guard you could probably get the slot cut if you went down at an angle being careful not to catch the edging, but you might not get the depth you are looking for. you want a clean slot cut so the edging can go down evenly. it looks like their is going to be some shoveling involved anyway you choose to go. When you try the edger try back dragging towards you instead of going forward.

is that steel edging sold by the foot or pound were you are.

dichdoc
07-28-2009, 10:50 PM
Thanks for the response are you speaking to the 3 wheeled variety or both styles? I'm seeign the 3-4 wheel styles have a tilting blade would that help. I buy the steel from my metal supplier technically by the pound converts to around 1.50 a foot for a 20' stick. I charge by the linear foot installed. Travis

Stillwater
07-28-2009, 11:09 PM
with the 3 wheeled walk behind you will probably hit the installed edging more than you care to but with the hand held stick edger you can manipulate the angle more on the fly and get right into where you want to to be. But for a fresh install a walk behind edger is the way to go. I have a stihl and a kawi and a john deere. but then again you might like the stick edger they are easier to control, I use them to install low voltage wiring for outdoor lighting. If you have a metal break you can slightly bend the corners of the blades to get a wider cut.

White Gardens
07-29-2009, 11:31 AM
I would think that you are going to have top pull all the edging before you try and re-set it.

I use my stihl yard boss tiller head on my trimmer with all but one tine removed to trench a slot for the edging.

If I can coordinate the installation around a good rain, then that helps soften the soil to beat in the edging with a hard rubber mallet. Even with the trench, you'll still have sections that won't sit properly and will need a little persuasion.

Also, this steel edging you fabricate, is it painted or powder-coated to keep it from rusting?

Stillwater
07-29-2009, 12:07 PM
I never use a hard rubber or plastic mallet, I get nowhere, 2 pound hammer, and no doubt he is going to be doing some shoveling no getting around that.

the steel banding I installed hear on the vineyard in the 80's same with the edging on the lower cape is still solid with zero visible scaling and by all appearances will last another 30 years it has a patina to it much like copper gets as it weathers and we are on the ocean with allot of salt in the air. The condition underground? I have no clue. This stuff lasts....

White Gardens
07-29-2009, 12:18 PM
I never use a hard rubber or plastic mallet, I get nowhere, 2 pound hammer, and no doubt he is going to be doing some shoveling no getting around that.

the steel banding I installed hear on the vineyard in the 80's same with the edging on the lower cape is still solid with zero visible scaling and by all appearances will last another 30 years it has a patina to it much like copper gets as it weathers and we are on the ocean with allot of salt in the air. The condition underground? I have no clue. This stuff lasts....

It probably has to do with the type of metal used. You see people install col-met edging with the powder-coat finish, and where the paint has failed it has started to rust pretty badly. Makes me wonder if they use a cheap metal.

I've also found a rubber mallet used for a stapler that is used for installing hard-wood floors, and the metal cap on it helps to get a harder blow without knurling the edging.

dichdoc
07-29-2009, 01:34 PM
good stuff guys, my edging is mild steel, unfinished, left to "patina" it patinas quicker where I have welded and ground smooth vs. where the mill scale is left in place takes around 3-5 years to really see a good patina. we're pretty dry here no big worries about it rusting away. I too use a 2lb hammer to beat it in. I clean up the edges with a flap wheel on a cordless grinder. So what about a manual foot edger or flat spade just work around the whole thing and then beat it in? vs. cutting in two spots and pulling out each half of the circle power edge and replace?

dichdoc
07-31-2009, 11:13 PM
Well, I went to price out some wheeled gas edgers (Tanaka 7 Troy built)locally yesterday morning and ended up at Home Depot. In a back corner on a roller cart was a echo trimmer sticking out with low and behold an edger head! Price was $199.00 marked down to $85 it was last years model and was missing the air filter and cover. I offered them $50 but settled for $75 just so I'd feel good about it. The asst manager told me a local engine shop should have the parts. But I told him he (the Home Depot) had them on the shelf for $9.00. Out the door with a $200 edger for $85. Showed up to the edging project from hell this morning and fired it up and edged out a 200' line and beat the edging down into it! Worked great. After speaking to others who have used the edgers for trenching applications like myself they said they were underpowered so without the thousands of dollars handy for a bed shaper I'm thinking I'll build an attachment for my circa 1984 Exmark shown here with the custom dumper. Thanks for all the info. Travis