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kirk1701
08-01-2009, 10:04 AM
Thats the question :dizzy:

:confused:
:confused:
:confused:

So here's the plan.
Cut short, Core Aerate then, 1 of two choices:

1. Powerseed and topdress with compost

or

2. Spread seed with spreader "daily" just what area I can get covered with the compost the same day?

Thats the question; it's just me so I'll be doing this all myself and its a lot to cover, about 15,000 SQ FT.

If I powerseed I would be renting so thats a one day job and take back next day then start covering the seed with compost which would take a week by myself.

Or 2. Just do what area I can get done on a daily basis and spread with spreader.

Smallaxe
08-01-2009, 11:03 AM
Its a little early for overseeding in Wisco. Are you planting Southern grasses? Timing maybe right for them - I don't know.

Core-aerating for a seed bed is still the funniest joke, added to the lawncare mythology. :laugh:
The barrier of the pre-m mythology isn't even funny, but the aerate for seed bed is.

kirk1701
08-01-2009, 10:14 PM
Its a little early for overseeding in Wisco. Are you planting Southern grasses? Timing maybe right for them - I don't know.

Core-aerating for a seed bed is still the funniest joke, added to the lawncare mythology. :laugh:
The barrier of the pre-m mythology isn't even funny, but the aerate for seed bed is.

No small axe just planning ahead now for fall, probably do all this mid to end of September. Tall Fescue.

Lawn is healthy now, great shape just want to inprove the soil, loosen up the compaction so less run-off by aerating.

Gold Star Lawns
08-02-2009, 05:04 PM
i forget the exact %'s of the outcome...but your turnout is going to be better if you powerseed...i think the rate of seeds making it is 70-80%, whereas if you just overseed...its drastically lower(i forget the % for this). I would do both...powerseed then to a overseed as well.

Smallaxe
08-02-2009, 10:25 PM
No small axe just planning ahead now for fall, probably do all this mid to end of September. Tall Fescue.

Lawn is healthy now, great shape just want to inprove the soil, loosen up the compaction so less run-off by aerating.

Now that makes sense. :)

kirk1701
08-03-2009, 09:09 PM
Now that makes sense. :)

See!!!!
Told you I was learning from you all :drinkup:

And lawn is looking awsome smallaxe, very pleased.

I got ever car slowing down when they pass, neighbors are jealous and even have some jealous enough to run off the curb at the street just to attempt to kill the grass.

Smallaxe
08-04-2009, 08:54 AM
:) Cool... :)

kirk1701
08-06-2009, 05:14 PM
I just got my first quote for Aerating the lawn. Not exactly what I was expecting I guess, or the guy just guestimated and gave me a price of $150 for front and back.

How do you guys go about giving a price?

any measuring involved or just look at the property and give price?

I thought $150 was reasonable but not sure.

DA Quality Lawn & YS
08-06-2009, 08:07 PM
I just got my first quote for Aerating the lawn. Not exactly what I was expecting I guess, or the guy just guestimated and gave me a price of $150 for front and back.

How do you guys go about giving a price?

any measuring involved or just look at the property and give price?

I thought $150 was reasonable but not sure.

Greenhorns should be using a measuring wheel. Experienced guys can eyeball turf size pretty decent. I bought a wheel this year, and found that a few properties I eyeballed were off by a bit. I call it a learning mistake.

At any rate $150 for 15K sq ft of turf is a pretty good price. $10/K. If it is a reputable establishment, I would hire them. Unless you want to jar all of your teeth out doing it yourself:laugh:

kirk1701
08-06-2009, 11:46 PM
Greenhorns should be using a measuring wheel. Experienced guys can eyeball turf size pretty decent. I bought a wheel this year, and found that a few properties I eyeballed were off by a bit. I call it a learning mistake.

At any rate $150 for 15K sq ft of turf is a pretty good price. $10/K. If it is a reputable establishment, I would hire them. Unless you want to jar all of your teeth out doing it yourself:laugh:

Thanks DA, pretty much what I needed to know.

I called three places out of the yellow pages and this guy called me back next day though I missed the call, he left message on machine then I left message on his again LOL.

So, finally we got in touch with each other today and he came out same day.

Other two places we'll, said they would be in contact or someone would call in a week so its been a week.

In my opinion, early birds get the worm. Seemed like a nice enough guy so, think I'll let him know tomorrow and set up for third week in Sept weather permitting. :drinkup:

kirk1701
08-10-2009, 04:11 PM
Just got a call-back.

Were set for Aerating first week in Oct. A little later then I originally planned basically because of last year. Mid-sept was still 90+ degrees, dry and had an extra $140 water bill :laugh:

So, maybe planning later I can avoid that charge and less time watering.

Smallaxe as per our PM.
The guy that is doing the Aerating said same thing 1. Aerate 2. Spread w/spreader & 3. Compost. (only we agreed swith steps 2 & 3).

I'm still debating this switch and also thinking slit seeder, BUT for good reason but there maybe a valid reason why was good last year as I was told differently here last year so I wanted to open this up.

Last year I was going to just spread seed with spreader, against everyones advice of renting the powerseeder it didn't work so after strongly being recomended to rent a slit seeder here (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=2471180#post2471180) I did.

I had AWSOME results afterwards so makes me wonder whats the difference between then and now?

kirk1701
08-13-2009, 11:28 AM
Just got a call-back.

Were set for Aerating first week in Oct. A little later then I originally planned basically because of last year. Mid-sept was still 90+ degrees, dry and had an extra $140 water bill :laugh:

So, maybe planning later I can avoid that charge and less time watering.

Smallaxe as per our PM.
The guy that is doing the Aerating said same thing 1. Aerate 2. Spread w/spreader & 3. Compost. (only we agreed swith steps 2 & 3).

I'm still debating this switch and also thinking slit seeder, BUT for good reason but there maybe a valid reason why was good last year as I was told differently here last year so I wanted to open this up.

Last year I was going to just spread seed with spreader, against everyones advice of renting the powerseeder it didn't work so after strongly being recomended to rent a slit seeder here (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=2471180#post2471180) I did.

I had AWSOME results afterwards so makes me wonder whats the difference between then and now?

BUMP :rolleyes:
Where is everyone?

Smallaxe
08-14-2009, 09:24 AM
With a slit seeder it won't matter when the compost goes on. Just take a little time to visualize what your seed is experiencing and whether it is a good thing...

kirk1701
08-14-2009, 10:38 AM
With a slit seeder it won't matter when the compost goes on. Just take a little time to visualize what your seed is experiencing and whether it is a good thing...

I'm actually leaning more toward what you said smallaxe.

Fist week of Oct, Aerate
Then take my time, got pleany of compost now that I found a place to get it so fill the holes.

When all that's done rent the power seeder last and that should be Mid Oct so it will be cooler, weather should be just right in my neck of the woods for a good seed bed :walking:

Agree/disagree or anything you guys would change?

Smallaxe
08-15-2009, 06:32 AM
I do have the question though... If it was so great a catch last year why is the such an intense blanket of seed needed again this year?

kirk1701
08-15-2009, 09:02 AM
I do have the question though... If it was so great a catch last year why is the such an intense blanket of seed needed again this year?

Not following your question?
Sounds like you don't think the powerseeder is needed?

That would be a catch :clapping:

Lawn is still looking great, wouldn't repeat that app of weed and feed the beginning of Aug if I could take it back, LOL. but other then that me a happy camper.

However I do now have a better maintenance schedule for next year.

kirk1701
08-30-2009, 11:37 PM
I do have the question though... If it was so great a catch last year why is the such an intense blanket of seed needed again this year?

Sorry for avoiding that question smallaxe

The idea is or was thinking along the line that over the course of the summer more of the seed left from the year before last when I had TruGreen seed the lawn (which they used a cheap seed) would now be dead and need to be replaced. We'll, looks like more of my seed I planted last year took and even less of what Trugreen planted was left then I originally thought. :laugh:

Weather pattern is already starting to change here, overnight lows in the 50's and daytime highs in the upper 70's for the next week but no rain in site. So, no powerseeder needed as thought. Think I'm going with the plan smallaxe laid out.

1. Cut short
2. Aerate
3. Take sections at a time and spread seed and cover with compost.
4. Water and keep moist but with this being done end of Sept into Oct that shouldn't be to hard specially with leaf's falling as cover to keep moist. :drinkup:

1badmach1
08-31-2009, 12:51 AM
Hey kirk just wondering where to get a good quality seed around our neck of the woods? What kind of seed do you plant with good results?

kirk1701
08-31-2009, 06:42 AM
Hey kirk just wondering where to get a good quality seed around our neck of the woods? What kind of seed do you plant with good results?

Check out Lowe's. One of the garden center managers told me the this is what all the contractors come in for and I figured hell I'll give it a try.

It's pennington 100% Tall Fescue and says in a gold circle on the bag 99.9% weed free. Also says on the front disease & insect resistant. They have some bags with the grass seed isle, also by the checkout in lawn and garden and more in the back by the fertilizer so you can't miss it. BIG 50 Lb bag is $95 and It's performed real good this summer after having powerseeded with it last fall, so just purchased three bags for this fall. :cool2:

Thing is, it's not listed on pennington's site, can't find anywhere else online so I thought maybe a lowe's exclusive? Then I found it at wally world but it's a bit different, 20 Lb bag for $48 and includes drought resistant but I'll stick with Lowes.

foreplease
08-31-2009, 06:54 AM
:
If I powerseed I would be renting so thats a one day job and take back next day then start covering the seed with compost which would take a week by myself.


If you powerseed, topedressing with compost may improve your yard but the seed will have been buiried in large part by the machine.

Think about aerating vs. hand spreading all that compost. If you can pull great plugs and lots of them, dragging them around to break up and spread may be easier and bring good results.

What kind of seed are you planning to use?

kirk1701
08-31-2009, 07:08 AM
If you powerseed, topedressing with compost may improve your yard but the seed will have been buiried in large part by the machine.

Think about aerating vs. hand spreading all that compost. If you can pull great plugs and lots of them, dragging them around to break up and spread may be easier and bring good results.

What kind of seed are you planning to use?

See above on the seed :)

As for the power seeding, that was my original plan and even still have the revitalizer by Lawn solutions still scheduled to rent out from Vance equip for the first weekend in Oct. However it was smallaxe who changed my mind on power seeder but for the life of me I now can't find where he mentioned it to me :laugh:
"In other words me getting old"

So you think I should stick with the power seeder? Not cancel my rental for the first weekend in Oct?

Here's another question, would it be worth having the lawn de-thatched the same time I have it aerated?

Smallaxe
08-31-2009, 07:55 AM
... Here's another question, would it be worth having the lawn de-thatched the same time I have it aerated?

If I remember right - this is a new lawn last year - not just renovated, last year. Is that true?
Dethatching should not be necessary in a relatively new lawn and is never necessary in a fescue lawn.

Thatch is a buildup of living and dead, roots and stems, forming a barrier over the top of the ground, blocking the movement of water into the soil.

Grass clippings are a valuable source of ground cover and actually recycle nutrients into the soil. They are not thatch. They may be scratched up so your seed has better contact with the soil, but I typically just toss the seed right on the lawn and it works its way down. Actually I believe it germinates better if there is some moisture holding mulch material in place. I've always had good luck anyways.

foreplease
08-31-2009, 08:10 AM
For some reason I saw your powerseed or not question and read all the responses on page 1 without noticing there were more pages. Sorry. I see the seed from Lowes you mentioned. You also mentioned a PM from Smallaxe, maybe that is where he changed your mind and it's not showing up in a search?

Do you have excess thatch? It's easy to look in a few places. Aerating helps with thatch, particularly if you have plenty of cores and drage them around. Topdressing will help too but I can't see doing it the way you are tackling it (by hand). I hope you are buying it bulk this year :)

I've read Smallaxe's take on aerating and overseeding here and in other threads. I disagree with him. The method you are considering (aerating and slit seeding) is ideal, IMO. Either one alone is good for overseeding. If you were looking at a complete renovation I would say aerating alone is not enough and that you would absolutely need to slit seed.

BTW, the slit seeding machines and "dethatching" machines (power rake?) are very similar. If I had a known thatch problem to resolve I would aerate heavy and often, drag the cores, topdress, and reduce water and fertilizer. I might verti-cut (power rake).

kirk1701
08-31-2009, 10:04 AM
If I remember right - this is a new lawn last year - not just renovated, last year. Is that true?
Dethatching should not be necessary in a relatively new lawn and is never necessary in a fescue lawn.
Thats correct, I guess you could say it's new as of last year being I did it myself with my own seed. Now, year before last (2007) TruGreen killed off the weeds, Aerated & power seeded however in 2008 was when I got hit with VERY BAD case of brown patch and I still blame TruGreen especially after what you guys have said on here.

Still had some of the Chemlawn seed left this year but not much. After seeding this year I do expect chemlawns cheap seed to be gone next year.

For some reason I saw your powerseed or not question and read all the responses on page 1 without noticing there were more pages. Sorry. I see the seed from Lowe's you mentioned. You also mentioned a PM from Smallaxe, maybe that is where he changed your mind and it's not showing up in a search?

Do you have excess thatch? It's easy to look in a few places. Aerating helps with thatch, particularly if you have plenty of cores and drage them around. Topdressing will help too but I can't see doing it the way you are tackling it (by hand). I hope you are buying it bulk this year :)

I've read Smallaxe's take on aerating and overseeding here and in other threads. I disagree with him. The method you are considering (aerating and slit seeding) is ideal, IMO. Either one alone is good for overseeding. If you were looking at a complete renovation I would say aerating alone is not enough and that you would absolutely need to slit seed.

BTW, the slit seeding machines and "dethatching" machines (power rake?) are very similar. If I had a known thatch problem to resolve I would aerate heavy and often, drag the cores, topdress, and reduce water and fertilizer. I might verti-cut (power rake).

I wouldn't say excessive thatch, I can rake in one area and pull up dead grass some of which are clippings but I wouldn't say its too bad.

As for the compost, YES LOL I was going to do it with 40Lb bags as that was the only way I could get it. I checked with places locally and kept coming up empty so I bought what I could at Lowes, stored in the garage and have about 50 bags. However, they ran out :cry: I did get lucky, the guy I have doing the aerating turned me onto a local place that does sell it bulk :clapping:
Now the question becomes how much do I need for 15,000 SQ FT? and they sell by the scoop, each dozer scoop is supposedly 1 Cubic yard? LOL

Slit seeding Vs Spreading by hand? I will say I did it last year and had mixed results. Slit seeding worked better in the back where I killed it off and reseeded from scratch after you guys here pleaded with me to rent one :drinkup: On the same token, spreading with spreader and topdressing worked better in the front so I guess I have a decision to make :dizzy:

kirk1701
08-31-2009, 10:52 AM
As for the seed; I'd say it was about time I look on the bag and see what it was :clapping:

It's not Pennington, its Rebel 4

http://www.turf.com/products/rebels-iv-grass-seed.php

kirk1701
09-03-2009, 03:13 PM
If I remember right - this is a new lawn last year - not just renovated, last year. Is that true?
Dethatching should not be necessary in a relatively new lawn and is never necessary in a fescue lawn.

Thatch is a buildup of living and dead, roots and stems, forming a barrier over the top of the ground, blocking the movement of water into the soil.

Grass clippings are a valuable source of ground cover and actually recycle nutrients into the soil. They are not thatch. They may be scratched up so your seed has better contact with the soil, but I typically just toss the seed right on the lawn and it works its way down. Actually I believe it germinates better if there is some moisture holding mulch material in place. I've always had good luck anyways.

Just read through the other thread here in renovation:
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=287800

After reading that along with some other factors where I was already leaning toward spreading the seed with a spreader Vs power seeding I think I've made up my mind; no power seeder needed smallaxe :drinkup:

Like you said, I don't have a complete renovation, so the seed already has plenty of grass and thatch to bind to and germinate.

Plus, like I was already thinking earlier I can take sections, spread the seed and cover same day rather then power seeding which will do all in one day then the seed would be left dry till I get it covered with compost.

However, thanks for everyone's input and especially foreplease but like I said in an earlier thread also, the back yard last year which I killed off DID REQUIRE power seeding however the front yard had grass much like the front and back does this year. I had to spread more seed in the front last year by hand because the power seeding just didn't do as well, maybe because it was still hot, was too much to keep watered by hand and we'll, dried out. Doing it in sections over the course of the fall I can handle the watering and keeping moist a lot easier doing little bit as I go. :drinkup:

I start next Tuesday after the guy aerates. I'll be sure to post before and after pic's here.

foreplease
09-03-2009, 10:31 PM
Good luck, I hope the weather cooperates. On a project much like yours, I am working on a soccer field this week, making the most of a ten day away game stretch. Double aerated it, then went over it twice with a JRCO rake, put down 175# of seed (light) and got the first half of it topdressed today. Using 25 yards of a very nice 4:1 sand-compost mix. Dragging it in a couple directions and plan to give it a shot of fertilizer before starting the water again. We also cut and removed two large spots of bentgrass and moved some sod in from a practice field because the mix was a lot closer to a match than sod I could buy. I would have preferred to seed that too but knew I could not bring it in before next game.

kirk1701
09-03-2009, 10:41 PM
WOW!! :)
Sounds like fun.

Thanks again foreplease:drinkup:

kirk1701
09-06-2009, 11:03 AM
Hey guys I got a question on whether this would be a good idea?

The lawn is ready to be mown, however schedule is to get Aerated day after tomorrow (Tuesday). Would it be a good idea to wait on the mowing till after the Aeration, throw some seed out and then mow?

My thinking is the lawn being high I can mix the seed up in the grass clippings (Not catching grass) as its mulched along with the plugs being on top of the grass I can somewhat chop them up at the same time????? :walking:

foreplease
09-06-2009, 03:25 PM
Mow. The less distance the seed has to travel to get to the soil the better. Mow again after the aerating and seeding if you do that.

kirk1701
09-06-2009, 04:11 PM
Mow. The less distance the seed has to travel to get to the soil the better. Mow again after the aerating and seeding if you do that.

Thanks forplease, we have rain in the forecast all week so maybe your missing what I'm asking? Or Vice verse

I'm thinking if I mow afterwords there will be just that much more grass clippings to act as "covering" to keep the seed moist? Plus, with rain in the forecast makes it all that much better and that will push the seed and the clipping closer to the ground. Add to the fact the plugs will be on top and I can catch them with the mower blade at the same time breaking them up to get rid of them. Therefore solving two problems at one time, then after mowing start spreading the compost before the grass grows again.

Also, how badly should I expect the aerating to mess up the lawn? Can anyone post a pic of a freshly aerated lawn so I can see what to expect?:confused:
YEP, my first time doing this and days before Operation Renovate I'm getting nervous, LMAO!!

foreplease
09-06-2009, 10:23 PM
I know what you are saying (now) but don't think that is how I would do it. If anything, I might let it grow after the seeding and aeration are both done, then create a cover with the extra clippings. More likely, though, I would not change my mowing schedule or criteria. It is a little different when you have only yourself to keep happy than on an in-season athletic field.

My take on mowing is that I always mow this time as though I may not be able to mow next time. Probably does not make complete sense but that is how I look at it. Sometimes I mow more often than planned but rarely - and I mean exceptionally rarely - do I mow less often. This sometimes finds me mowing two or more days in a row or mowing in the rain. So be it.

I am a little more patient with myself on my own yard :)

All I am saying is get the seed as close to the soil as possible when you put it down rather than relyling on it to find its way through long grass where it may get blown around with your clippings before settling. If you know it is going to rain, keep mowing becaus eit is surely going to grow. Who knows, the aeration guy may get rained out, then you have a mess.

foreplease
09-06-2009, 10:28 PM
Also, how badly should I expect the aerating to mess up the lawn? Can anyone post a pic of a freshly aerated lawn so I can see what to expect?:confused:
YEP, my first time doing this and days before Operation Renovate I'm getting nervous, LMAO!!

Meant to include this in previous reply.

The worse it seems to mess up the lawn, the better job you had done. Having seen photos of your lawn, I do not think there is any chance that the guy can overdo it. Your lawn is in good health, is what I mean, and can both tolerate and benefit from a LOT of holes. After you have been through the process a few times you may find that although you are satisfied with his work that you had gotten more holes punched.

kirk1701
09-06-2009, 11:25 PM
Meant to include this in previous reply.

The worse it seems to mess up the lawn, the better job you had done. Having seen photos of your lawn, I do not think there is any chance that the guy can overdo it. Your lawn is in good health, is what I mean, and can both tolerate and benefit from a LOT of holes. After you have been through the process a few times you may find that although you are satisfied with his work that you had gotten more holes punched.

:drinkup:
I went ahead and mowed this evening; after finally making up my mind whether or not to mow and then barley got it done in time before the rain hit :laugh:

and your right, with this weather the guy doing the aerating might get rained out really makes sense. Watching the weather now, 40% chance tomorrow and 50% Tuesday (Day of aerating) then two days of dry weather and right back at it again with more rain. So, with all this dam rain (Shhhh I didn't badmouth the rain) not to mention temps in the 80's for high's and overnight low's in the 60's how can I go wrong with my seeding, perfect weather. :cool2:

kirk1701
09-07-2009, 02:51 PM
Here's a few Pic's for you guys. Both front and back, what it looks like before the aeration and I'll get the same ones again afterwards but I won't post then till I'm done. Actually, what I might do is create a .HTM document (web site for short) and upload it to my webspace with side by side shots of before and after. :drinkup:

The first 4 you all have seen before, just these were just took today, Labor Day Sept 7, 2009.

As you can see in the last photo I do have some bald spots, these is not from dead grass but from where we had word done we had some tree's took down and made dents in the yard so we knew that would happen so hence the reason it was done prior to the rfeseeding :) I just filled the holes in.

kirk1701
09-07-2009, 02:58 PM
Here's how I plan on tackling this little project, zones 1 - 4 so I don't have to cut the whole lawn short at 1 time afterwards and I can 1. spread seed and cover with compost same day.

First two pics are zone 1 then third one down is zone 2 then 3 and 4.

kirk1701
09-07-2009, 03:06 PM
Finally, a few of the backyard, a recent project I just finished putting a walkway through the garden and one of the side of the house.

Plan is to take care of the front first, Starting Sept 10 because I have some things to take care of this Wednesday and 1 zone a day so 4 days I should be done Sept 13 or 14th.

Then, rest a week, keep it watered but start the back sometime the week of the 21st depending on weather.

Can you tell I can't wait to get started :cool2:

And I've said this before, thanks guys I couldn't have done this without you all here at LawnSite :drinkup:

foreplease
09-07-2009, 09:05 PM
Looks well organized. I've forgotten now what seed you chose. Hope you're using a drop spreader around the edges to keep it out of your garden, landscaping rocks, etc. Good luck with this.

Smallaxe
09-08-2009, 05:53 AM
Looks like the lawn in most places is doing fine. A little compaction through the gate and some thinning in the back shaded areas, but again its doing real good.
The propane tank looks a bit out of place. Some plantings around that might be a consideration, now that planting time is here again. :)

kirk1701
09-08-2009, 07:27 AM
Looks like the lawn in most places is doing fine. A little compaction through the gate and some thinning in the back shaded areas, but again its doing real good.
The propane tank looks a bit out of place. Some plantings around that might be a consideration, now that planting time is here again. :)

You should have seen that filthy thing before last weekend, the whole backside of the house in on the north side and therefore everything molds in Kentucky. Worst place I ever lived for mold and just so happen I developed allergies to mold when we moved here :cry:

Spent last weekend powerwashing the back side of the garage and shed, house, raingutters and the gas tank. Thought doing that now would be better then after the new seed was put down so that's me thinking ahead :)

We have thought about putting something around the tank in the past, just never could decide on what though because in the summer that thing gets HOT and we were thinking anything we put around it would 1. burn up and 2. be hard to get to the tank to wash the mold off.

Now a question for you, you say you can notice a "little compaction through the gate"; is that's what's causing that as it happens every year? This year it's not as bad as previous years becasue that ends up being the path to get the garden tractor out and I thought it was just because it was high traffic area. I took different paths this year, have another gate on the other side of the house so in one gate and out the other and go to the right one time and to the left the next then straight down the middle and so forth. Same thing happens in front of the ramp going up into the shed where the tractor stays.

kirk1701
09-08-2009, 07:49 AM
One more question also, I forgot about. Thinking I probably DON'T need this as none of you have mentioned it but thought I'd ask. Should I put down a starter fert with the seed? I know scotts has that stuff in the green bags all over Lowe's this time of year but for the price they want, I never bothered before.

If I should, would I be just as well off going with the regular Scott's Turf builder straight fert with no weed controls? It's like $30 a bag Vs the starter fert which is over $50 a bag for the same size?

foreplease
09-08-2009, 08:47 AM
I almost mentioned this yesterday but thought you had covered it earlier. No weed control produscts of any kind for several weeks after the last seed goes down. Since it is an overseeding rather than completely new lawn, I think you should let the needs of the existing turf govern the fertilizer program.

kirk1701
09-08-2009, 08:53 AM
I almost mentioned this yesterday but thought you had covered it earlier. No weed control produscts of any kind for several weeks after the last seed goes down. Since it is an overseeding rather than completely new lawn, I think you should let the needs of the existing turf govern the fertilizer program.

Sounds good to me foreplease. :)

Now, new problem as of this morning. My first though was dollar spots :confused:

Opened the door this morning and first I thought we had a storm overnight and leaf's on the lawn. Closer examination shows its not leafs but spider webs on the lawn BUT!!!!!

Along with the web is a reddish looking spider in the web so its not dollar spot right? What is it and should I be concerned.

EDIT! OK I got some pic's that took better then expected. Can clearly see the webs from a distance (along with other problem on the road) and up close with a red dot for spider.

kirk1701
09-08-2009, 04:31 PM
Who knows, the aeration guy may get rained out, then you have a mess.

Tic tock Tic Tock....
Waiting patently, it's 3:30 here now and have not heard heads or tails from the guy.

Last time we spoke was Sept 3 and set a date for this morning :rolleyes:

I know south of me it has rained a lot, but the ground here has had time to dry out however you think he would call.

Call him? Been there done that, answering machine. I haven't called today though as I don't want him to think I'm rushing him and get to be a nuisance.

Glad now I did go ahead and mow, hell might even get another mowing in :laugh:

kirk1701
09-09-2009, 05:06 PM
Question for you guys

Does aerating and aervating do the same thing :confused:

So I get home from work today and the guy is just finishing up, He's just loading the machine back on the trailer and I walk out to the road and say it don't look as bad as I thought it would.

He said no and what a nice yard I had and went on for a bit and I said I expected to see plugs ontop but I don't and he says thats the difference between a aervating and aervating, this machine has spikes which make holes in the ground but don't remove no dirt from the ground.

I just got robbed didn't I :cry:

foreplease
09-09-2009, 07:11 PM
Kirk,
I wouldn't say robbed-just two different operations. Unfortunately, using an Aeravator is a great way to overseed-he could have drilled yours in had you known. I like the idea of pulling plugs and dragging them around. You get the air and water exchange in the soil and benefit of juicing microbial activity with the soil removed and dragged back in.

All is not lost...search the forum for opinions on Aeravator (brand) and Google it for demo/explanation.

Still working here...
Posted via Mobile Device

kirk1701
09-09-2009, 10:52 PM
Kirk,
I wouldn't say robbed-just two different operations. Unfortunately, using an Aeravator is a great way to overseed-he could have drilled yours in had you known. I like the idea of pulling plugs and dragging them around. You get the air and water exchange in the soil and benefit of juicing microbial activity with the soil removed and dragged back in.

All is not lost...search the forum for opinions on Aeravator (brand) and Google it for demo/explanation.

Still working here...
Posted via Mobile Device

So is it cheaper to arerate then aeravate?

Kinda wondering now if this guys trying to pull a sly one and charge for one and do another.

I do know this, he was here from 12:30 till 3:45 PM and went both directions across the front yard, once across the back.

foreplease
09-10-2009, 06:51 AM
That I don't know. Can't be much difference one way or the other.

Please post photos and/or description of your seeding and topdressing procedure so we can help you mop this up.

Smallaxe
09-10-2009, 07:57 AM
If there was an aeravator available for rental here I would use that as opposed to plugging.
If he used a 'spike' aerator, then yes - that does nothing for compaction, in fact it packs the circumfrence of the holes pretty good.

kirk1701
09-10-2009, 08:23 AM
If there was an aeravator available for rental here I would use that as opposed to plugging.
If he used a 'spike' aerator, then yes - that does nothing for compaction, in fact it packs the circumfrence of the holes pretty good.

Yep, thats what the front had was spikes.

I was a bit shell shocked when I seen it.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't call him and make sure he knew what we discussed and have him now arerate it before I go further?

By the way, could someone answer the question with the pictures above on the spider webs; think the post got lost between all this going on.

foreplease
09-10-2009, 08:38 AM
We need to determine exactly what your guy did. Aeravator is a brand name and a pretty good process for some things. Now it sounds like something else was done?

In the photos, you have some type of mycelium (spider web looking things) but I wouldn't worry about it at this time of year if it was my yard. You do have a lot of them though.

kirk1701
09-10-2009, 09:33 AM
We need to determine exactly what your guy did. Aeravator is a brand name and a pretty good process for some things. Now it sounds like something else was done?

In the photos, you have some type of mycelium (spider web looking things) but I wouldn't worry about it at this time of year if it was my yard. You do have a lot of them though.

I just got off the phone with him, used some terminology you guys use on here and told him my brother-N-Law was in the business in another state and he tells me what to do and have done. :laugh:

Anyhow I made sure the price was still $150, it was :drinkup:

2. He said the name of the unit was a grasshopper and it was a $5,000 machine and 50 times better then aerating because it loosens the top 3" of soil and the spikes vibrate which is better then removing soil and plugs :confused:

3. He started getting a bit upset with my questioning his work, has been in the business 20 years and if I wasn't satisfied get someone else next year ;) or have my brother-n-law do it.

We ended on good terms, I told him it wasn't that I wasn't satisfied it was just not what I expected but I would trust his judgment.

kirk1701
09-10-2009, 09:51 AM
You guys wanted pic's, here's a few along with some I did last night after spreading seed along the property line and compost.

kirk1701
09-10-2009, 09:53 AM
And a few more

kirk1701
09-10-2009, 11:12 PM
For the record I want it to be known those ugly looking cinder blocks under the tree's.....
We'll they are not my doing, neighbor trying to block water from going downhill :laugh:

Actually, there is a book being wrote on the neighbor, look for it to be published sometime this spring :drinkup:

kirk1701
09-16-2009, 04:33 PM
As promised everyone, here's the link to the web site. I created a quick and easy one and linked the thumbnails so they are hyperlinked to click on and view bigger image.

This way, not overloading the site with all these pics :drinkup:

Before and after shots, I'm done with the front and will start the back next week so the web site will be updated weekly, just check back.

http://home.insightbb.com/~kirk1701/Lawn.htm

Please let me know if any links do not work.

kirk1701
09-23-2009, 09:14 AM
Just thought I'd post an update for you guys. I mowed the front yesterday (with exception to the bare spots) and what more can I say it looks great :cool2:

I got the green that no one else has and it almost like radiates or gives off a neon glow. LMAO Dam neighbor will be jealous now :rolleyes:

Anyhow, I would like to get some pic's up ASAP but want to do it on a sunny day but we haven't had to much of that lately, not complaining as I have not had to drag a water hose around the yard too much, nature has done most of the work for me.

I started on the back yesterday so will also update those pic's when I get a chance. It's looking awesome though, thanks in part to most of you here.

kirk1701
10-02-2009, 11:18 PM
Web page updated with new photo's of this week, I'm really pleased with the results and can only hope the back tuns out half as good :)

http://home.insightbb.com/~kirk1701/Lawn.htm

foreplease
10-03-2009, 08:06 AM
I've been wondering where these pictures were. Man what a lot of work to do by hand. Looks good though. Are you happy with the "Aeravatnig" process now? I think you would be better off with many passes with a core aerator but that this way turned out well for your seed.

You could sell those lawn chairs to help fund it. Doesn't sound like you have any time to sit in them. :)

Thanks for the update.

kirk1701
10-03-2009, 08:31 AM
I've been wondering where these pictures were. Man what a lot of work to do by hand. Looks good though. Are you happy with the "Aeravatnig" process now? I think you would be better off with many passes with a core aerator but that this way turned out well for your seed.

You could sell those lawn chairs to help fund it. Doesn't sound like you have any time to sit in them. :)

Thanks for the update.

It was a lot of work, some mornings I was up and out at dawn getting started but I'm glad its done now. :clapping:

Can't say I'd be happier with aerating Vs aeravating yet, being this was a first taime for me but yea I would have liked to plug the holes with compost as you all said so, next time I'll get someone else and be a bit more specific before they come out.

Sale my chairs? I enjoy my chairs every morning with the coffee and the deer in the field in back.

kirk1701
10-05-2009, 07:17 PM
Now here's what makes all that work pay off :clapping:

First sign of cold weather and all my neighbors yards turn brown (see pic) as if they are in the middle of a drought :laugh: because they go dormant.

All I need for Christmas is something red because the grass is still green :walking:

Now a question. Last year I followed the dates on the slips TrueGreen left and did my applications the same time of year they did it the year prior; yea I know :hammerhead:

So this year rather then just doing the lime app the same time someone else felt like coming out and doing it (Which was a week before Christmas I might add). I know there is no wrong/right time to put down lime and I put some down today under the tree's in the front which gets three or four apps of lime a year.

When would be the best time to do the lime application for the entire yard?

I've heard many many views on this and all make sense like "After all the leaf's have fell and you've picked up the leaf's. Because the leaf's cause acidic soil so no use putting lime down till the leaf's are gone???

kirk1701
10-07-2009, 11:40 PM
BUMP!

See Lime question above.

Thanks

Smallaxe
10-08-2009, 05:17 AM
It really doesn't matter when and it will take time for it to change the pH. What is the pH? Lime could be a waste of time.

kirk1701
10-08-2009, 08:06 AM
It really doesn't matter when and it will take time for it to change the pH. What is the pH? Lime could be a waste of time.

Test from the side where the tree's are came back last month, pH of 6.8 but keep in mind this is only on the side and where I just put down 200 Lbs of lime AFTER those results.

This side gets limed like that 3 times a year plus the regular lime treatment when I do the whole yard. The rest of the yard I haven't had tested since the last treatment (once a year) which was Dec of 2008 so it's due and would "guestimate" the pH to be right around 5.8 to 6 at present.

kirk1701
10-26-2009, 04:31 PM
Updated the website today folks, dam I'm looking good.

Everyone elses weeds have done gone dormant and my lawn is still green and being cut weekly :laugh:

http://home.insightbb.com/~kirk1701/Lawn.htm

I put out my winterguard this morning, waiting a week and doing the anual lime treatment and with exception to some mowing and leaf pickup I'm done for the seaosn.

foreplease
10-26-2009, 11:48 PM
Looking good, Kirk! Have wondered where you have been. Earlier tonight I could not get pictures to load but have seen them now. Nice job.

kirk1701
10-27-2009, 08:44 AM
Looking good, Kirk! Have wondered where you have been. Earlier tonight I could not get pictures to load but have seen them now. Nice job.

Thanks foreplease, I feel I really outdone myself as I never thought just me doing it myself would get it looking this good.

Later when I get a chance, I'm going to post a treatment schedule (based off the success and failures of this year) that I promise I'm going to stick to :laugh: for next year. Like the no fert the first of August.

Want you all to look at and see if there's anything you'd change.

As for the pic's, yea I tested them here as I uploaded, some will load half way and quit, have no idea what's going on there; could be the browser I click compatibility view in IE 8 and it loads fine so I know the whole pic is on the server.