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grassmasterswilson
08-16-2009, 09:50 PM
I am still working on my program to provide quality control I seem to have a program for fescue and another for bermuda.

Fescue program follows

early Feburary pre emergent and post app
late feburary fertilizer
april post app
sept post app
oct fert
nov fert

What do you think? In NC the temps from June-August are often in the mid to upper 90s and I have a lot of turf that isn't irrigated. So in order to keep turf burn down I try not to spray in the heat of summer.

My bermuda program is pretty similar except the fertilizer schedule is a little different and I have a winter treatment for weeds.

Any suggestions would be greatly apprectiated!

RAlmaroad
08-17-2009, 04:47 AM
I am still working on my program to provide quality control I seem to have a program for fescue and another for bermuda.

Fescue program follows

early Feburary pre emergent and post app
late feburary fertilizer
april post app
sept post app
oct fert
nov fert

What do you think? In NC the temps from June-August are often in the mid to upper 90s and I have a lot of turf that isn't irrigated. So in order to keep turf burn down I try not to spray in the heat of summer.

My bermuda program is pretty similar except the fertilizer schedule is a little different and I have a winter treatment for weeds.

Any suggestions would be greatly apprectiated!

FOR FESCUE: Your pre-em is going to be gone in 2 1/2 months. That mid february could be just pre-em with fertilizer, and another application could be pre-em with fertilizer again in 75 days. This will keep crabgrass at bay. A little "Drive or Acclaim" about July might help with any late germinating or weed pressure. July 4th is my target date for any crab that should show up. For some reason, I alway have a little around the driveway. Could be because the pavement is constantly warming the soil. Additional fertilizer would be on a "Look and See" attitude. Fall fertilization needs to be before the grass goes dormant in order for the plants to take up the Nitrogen and store it in the roots. That November fertilize may be a little late depending on the dormancy cycle. I'm just over here in TN; this is my program for my own yard. I use 5-5-25 with Barricade in Spring (slows mowing). Offer a soil test in October; this will target your fertilizer need specifically for the late September fertilize (Winterizer) and for the Spring. You could tweak the dates to suit your zone and climate.

cpa4t9r
08-17-2009, 09:47 AM
FOR FESCUE: Your pre-em is going to be gone in 2 1/2 months. That mid february could be just pre-em with fertilizer, and another application could be pre-em with fertilizer again in 75 days. This will keep crabgrass at bay. A little "Drive or Acclaim" about July might help with any late germinating or weed pressure. July 4th is my target date for any crab that should show up. For some reason, I alway have a little around the driveway. Could be because the pavement is constantly warming the soil. Additional fertilizer would be on a "Look and See" attitude. Fall fertilization needs to be before the grass goes dormant in order for the plants to take up the Nitrogen and store it in the roots. That November fertilize may be a little late depending on the dormancy cycle. I'm just over here in TN; this is my program for my own yard. I use 5-5-25 with Barricade in Spring (slows mowing). Offer a soil test in October; this will target your fertilizer need specifically for the late September fertilize (Winterizer) and for the Spring. You could tweak the dates to suit your zone and climate.

I've had excellent results with mid-February app of Barricade (20-10-10) at ~6 mo rate (TTTF/KBG). Used pre-m and dimension with less success in the past. No breakthroughs to date. Now about that bahia....