Fall Packages - Pricing

[ecoguy]

Hey folks. I'm the new guy, just getting going in the business on Vancouver Island. Eco Friendly. I'm looking for advice on pricing. Here's what I'm thinking for my fall packages:

Basic: -$199

- Final mow and trim
- Leaf removal (mulch, compost)
- Weeding
- Dethatching

Deluxe: - $279

- Basic plus Core aeration


Recommended: - $399 (over $100 in savings)

- Basic and Deluxe plus
- Overseed with Eco lawn seed
- Organic fertilizer treatment
- Top Dress with Super soil (70% compost, soil ph is 7)
- Follow up maintenance check

What do you think? Too low? Too high? I based the numbers on my cost as well as what the competitor down Island charges for similar Eco services.

Also, what do you think about the services? Is there something I've missed. For instance, do I need to fertilize and topdress?

Thanks!

[Smallaxe]

Pricing is all relative and depends greatly on quality of the property and quality of the job. As far as the services go - you question the need for topdress and fert for the fall time?
When do you think fertilizer is most appropriate?

[terrapro]

Why would you have flat rates? What do you do for a 1acre property, eat the loss?

I think you are over complicating things. Don't limit yourself, just charge an hourly rate. Give them an estimate based on how much time it will take you times your hourly rate then hand them a bill when you are done.

[starry night]

I'm sure this thread will go on for some time. But my first thought is: do you know anything about de-thatching? It really tears up a lawn. Do you really need to do it? In 25 years, I have never de-thatched a lawn. I am big on aeration especially in the Fall. And as smallaxe alluded, Fall is THE time to fertilize.

Also, you will find from most respondents on this forum that true eco or organic treatments are individualized rather than part of a "program". Sure a client needs to know pricing per item but you ought to be telling them what parts they need rather than letting them choose.

[ecoguy]

Hey guys, thanks for the good thoughts. One of the reasons for the bulk pricing is just to give me an idea for my profit margins. I'm currently writing my business plan. No, I don't plan on offering everyone the same treatments just because they are willling to pay. I get that.

I hadn't heard the negative about de-thatching. Everything I've read is that's if there is a buildup its best to deal with it. Once a person's lawn has become truly organic thatch should no longer be an issue anyways. The problem I face is virtually all the lawns I'll be inheriting are chemical dependant and very unhealthy so I'll be having to do a lot of renovations first, and then slowly move forward with consistent organic treatments. I plan to administer soil tests in the Spring to help me know what each lawn needs.

As far as fertilizing goes, I do realize that Fall is the best time, I just wondered if a good top dress AND a good fertilizer might be somewhat redundant.

As far as treating large 1 acre property, in all likelihood I will not be doing those. Its nearly impossible to be truly organic while treating an acre of grass.

[ecoguy]

It looks like Power Raking may be a better option then de-thatching if the thatch problem isn't too great. Perhaps I should make that part of the package and only recommend de-thatching for the lawns that are really bad.

[starry night]

Compost will help break down thatch (without tearing up the grass roots.)

[Smallaxe]

... The problem I face is virtually all the lawns I'll be inheriting are chemical dependant and very unhealthy so I'll be having to do a lot of renovations first, and then slowly move forward with consistent organic treatments. ...

The quickest and simplest way for grass to come down off the synthetic fertilizer high is with aerating and topdressing with compost. Regulating the water will have a lot to do with success or failure of an organic system.
Focus on soil structure. No matter what a soil 'test' says - soil 'structure' will determine how well any nutrient is used. Increase availablity rather than volume.

[ICT Bill]

It looks like Power Raking may be a better option then de-thatching if the thatch problem isn't too great. Perhaps I should make that part of the package and only recommend de-thatching for the lawns that are really bad.

Kentucky Blue Grass can get thick thatch, many other varieties do not so it will depend on the type of grass used

Often folks will charge a base fee for services like this that covers most yards, say 3000 sq ft. Then an additional charge per 1000 sq ft
The amouint charged can be all over the place so it is difficult to put a number on it. Kansas City has different pricing than New Yrok City

The program sounds great, on new customers that are transitioning you should make core aeration, seeding and top dress manditory each fall for 2 years. A great stand of turf will eventually crowd out weeds but you have got to get the soil fertility up for the program to work effectively.

You are trying to sell a soil fertility program not a feed the plant program

[ecoguy]

Thanks Bill. That's good advice. Having a base for 2000 sq feet and then an addition for each 1000 square feet after that. What do you think would be a good addition?

As far as grass seed goes, I plan to use Eco Lawn, its 7 different types of Fescue and comes highly recommended.

[ICT Bill]

Thanks Bill. That's good advice. Having a base for 2000 sq feet and then an addition for each 1000 square feet after that. What do you think would be a good addition?

As far as grass seed goes, I plan to use Eco Lawn, its 7 different types of Fescue and comes highly recommended.

I have NO experience with that seed. ask around there is seed and then there is SEED. You get what you pay for with grass seed IMHO
Look at Pennington's Myco seed, it is coated with Mycorrhizae, they claim 30% less water needed. I know them pretty well and would trust what they say as they team with Dr. Mike Amaranthus

[Kiril]

You get what you pay for with grass seed IMHO

I agree when talking about establishing turf from scratch. Over seeding applications are less an issue and IMO not worth the cost of the exceptionally high priced Pennington Myco

[DUSTYCEDAR]

aerate them heavy seed and slice seed if needed in bare areas