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View Full Version : Hydro seals leaking, need help with replacement - Exmark


genesis215
08-24-2009, 04:43 PM
I have a 2000 52" Exmark Turf Tracer HP, and both seals up near the top of the hydros are leaking oil, and it runs down onto the hydro and deck belts, and makes the belts slip severely, so I don't get much mower speed, and the blades bog down easily. I need to get these seals replaced, and needed advice on how to do it. My hydros are Hydro-Gear BDP 10L-117P. Thanks for your help.

1997 Ford E150 Van - 5.4L Triton V8 (16 mpg)
76"x14' Single-Axle Trailer w. 4' Gate Ramp & Jack
52" Great Dane Super Surfer - 22HP Kohler Command V-Twin
52" Exmark Turf Tracer HP - 26HP Kohler Command V-Twin
21" Troy-Bilt Push Mower - 5.5HP Honda OHC
Kawasaki KGT27A Line Trimmer
RedMax TR2300S Line Trimmer
Shindaiwa LE260 Edger
Stihl BR 600 4-MIX Backpack Blower
Stihl 024 AVS 18" Chainsaw

Restrorob
08-24-2009, 09:11 PM
This is not your exact pump but the procedure is the same on most all;


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Hydro%20Gear/HydroGearPSeriesSteerShaftSealInsta.jpg

genesis215
08-26-2009, 01:35 PM
Thanks for the info. I actually am needing to replace the gasket in this picture. It's part #11 in the photo, right below the end cap: http://j-thomas.com/Catalog/199_hydro-gear_pumps_bdp-10l.html

Again, thanks for your help.

Restrorob
08-26-2009, 07:40 PM
OK, A seal is a seal and a gasket is a gasket. Either one can be positioned on the top depending on how the OEM mounted the pump.

The charge pump should be removed before the end cap, So figure on getting part #3 on your diagram as well.

Now, From my experience you want to make SURE these pumps are perfectly clean of sand/dirt before you open them. Just a couple grains of sand can wipe the pump out.

Once the charge pump is removed and you start loosening the end cap screws, The springs inside cylinder block #12 in your diagram will push the cylinder block up out of the housing, If you let this cylinder block raise all the way up the pistons can leave the cylinder bores or c0ck in the bores. If this happens you will be there a while trying to get them back into the bores to re-install the end cap.

It's best to have a extra hand (helper) to hold the cylinder block down while the end cap is off.

Torque the charge pump screws and the end cap screws to 180-220 in.lbs.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Hydro%20Gear/HydroGearPSeriesChargePumpRemoval.jpg


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Hydro%20Gear/HydroGearPSeriesEndCapRemoval.jpg



Good Luck

Ruben Rocha
10-29-2009, 04:16 PM
Great post restrorob.
I believe my trunnion seal is leaking on a hydro-gear bdp16a-409
I have not removed the pump yet but my question is how is the retainer removed and installed? Is it a pry off/drive on type of clip or is it a snap ring?
Looking at mine it almost looks like it has a set screw in the body of the pump right where the seal is.

Restrorob
10-29-2009, 09:42 PM
That is a one time slide in clip, It can be pryed out with a small pic tool near the little ears working all the way around it pulling a little at a time.

This seal can be replaced without removal of the pump from the machine if you have room to access it, Carefully drive a small screwdriver between the trunnion shaft and the inner lip of the seal then pry it out, Again be careful not to gouge the shaft with the screwdriver.

If you order Hydro Gear #70739 Reference #12 below it will come with a new one time clip. Install the new clip with a deep socket slightly smaller than the ears on the clip, You should be able to push it in by hand.


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Hydro%20Gear/HydroGearBDP-16AParts.jpg


Good Luck

Ruben Rocha
06-01-2010, 04:21 PM
Just a update on my problem.
I still have a leak which I believe is the trunnion seal.
But I have tried twice to replace it.
There is no way to do it in place. So I need to remove the pump.
The problem I have had is the high pressure lines to the wheel motor are steel with what are called parker seal-lok fittings.
I have soaked them in pb blaster for hours on end. but no luck breaking them loose.
I have pulled the wrench so hard that it starts to twist the tube.
My only option at this point on next try is to pull the motor loose as well as the pump as a assembly and I may have enough play to replace the seal.
Big job.

Other than that it is cut the pipes and replace them.
I have found that if I don't clean the pumps the leak slows down quite a bit.
Buy it does get quite a bit of build up around the pump wich blocks the cooling fans.

Anyone deal with these parker fittings before.
This is on a hustler unit.

piston slapper
06-01-2010, 04:57 PM
Is this pump on a hustler Z or a Emark turf tracer?

On a Hustler, Put a wrench on the fitting on the pump and a wrench on the hydro hose to keep from twisting the steel line in two.

If you loosen both ends of the steel lines (mark the lines before removing) , then remove the lines at the wheel motor, both steel lines will come out with the pump. Without removing the engine.

Ruben Rocha
06-01-2010, 05:24 PM
As I said it is a hustler.
And I was talking about the wheel motor not the engine.
There is no hose
It is all steel tubing.
In fact one line allowed me to rest the wrench against the frame on the fitting while using the second wrench on the compression nut.
I pulled on it till it started to twist the pipe and gave up.
A couple of times in the past few months.
The spec says the torque is 40 ft pounds. So I know I exceeded it.
So the way it is made there is two steel lines from the pump to the motor.
If I remove the wheel,then the brake assembly I can remove the four bolts that hold the wheel motor.
Then after disconnecting the steering damper and steering linkage. I just might be able to replace the seal without removing the low pressure hoses.
If I have the room to turn it all a bit to make room to get to the shaft.

Of course also after removing the pump pulley and mounting bolts.
Then have to put it all back together and adjust the brakes,linkage,bla bla.

Just fyi.
This parker seal-lok fitting is a flare fitting. but there is also a ferrule on the tube. But it also has a o-ring where the flare and fitting mate together.

Ruben Rocha
06-01-2010, 05:31 PM
I think the end result will be to plan to replace the two factory formed steel lines and o-rings.
When I put a cheater pipe on the wrench.

piston slapper
06-01-2010, 05:59 PM
This post started as an Exmark pump problem. ....You didnt give the model or any other pertinent info....you seem to have all the answers....good luck.

Ruben Rocha
06-01-2010, 06:07 PM
No if you read my prior posts. I did. I responded on a similar problem with a hydrogear bdp16a. Which the exmark also uses a hydrogear.
That's how my replies started.
I just updated my reply.
Sorry for the confusion.