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View Full Version : CT Crabgrass Help Needed


dschribs
08-26-2009, 12:10 PM
Why it is every year I get lots of crabgrass around this time?? My lawn has virtually zero crab grass up until Mid August or so - then it honestly starts to get a little out of hand. I've just been pulling it but it's a losing battle.

I always though crabgrass was more of a problem in the spring. Should I have used a pre-emergent? If so, when? I always thought that a pre-emergent was applied in March or April no? If I had applied it back then, would it have prevented the crabgrass from sprouting now??

FYI - I'm in CT.

RAlmaroad
08-26-2009, 12:33 PM
Crabgrass in TN germinates in June and we're lower and warmer than y'all. So your one time a year pre-em in Early spring is gone. Crab is constantly setting seeds. I'll be in a minority to say that pre-em one time a year is wrong--so be it. However I put it down every 85-90 days and I use a good grade (Barricade with Anderson's fertilize). Minimal crab except on high pressure area next to fields. Little or no crabgrass should be seen up there is the springtime. Just think or research the germination cycle of crabgrass and therein lies your answer. Most seeds need 55+ degrees to germinate, however crabgrass with the hard shell needs 70+ for about 5 or more days to sprout. Others may say Bulls*it, but that's my theory. I'm old and been around the block more times than the Good Humor truck.

dschribs
08-26-2009, 12:52 PM
So one application of pre-emerg in Spring would prevent most Crab grass from sprouting in late Summer? Interesting....

Say March 15 or so in CT - does that sound about right?

borwicks
08-26-2009, 01:34 PM
So one application of pre-emerg in Spring would prevent most Crab grass from sprouting in late Summer? Interesting....

Say March 15 or so in CT - does that sound about right?

No. Monitor your ground temps. When they hit 50 degrees for at least 2 days you should get it down. I believe it takes 5 days of ground temps at 50. Then put it down every 2 months after that. You usually want it down by may 1st in my area. Then 2 more applications after that. If the lawn is thick and in good shape it should keep most the seeds from germinating without the pre-emergence. Bare spots and along edges you will see it. We shoot the active annual grasses with Q4

RAlmaroad
08-26-2009, 02:17 PM
So one application of pre-emerg in Spring would prevent most Crab grass from sprouting in late Summer? Interesting....

Say March 15 or so in CT - does that sound about right?

That the way a lot of folks think. Did you read my post following your problem? No way will pre-em last a whole season. Rain, foot traffic, irrigation, heat, all take down pre-em. Rain takes it way below the level of the seeds. With all of the rain, no wonder there's so much crabgrass. Pre-em works best when it is just slightly (1/8")below ground level. It surrounds the seeds and frys the hair root when it sticks out of the seed hull. More pre-em per application stays on the surface longer and is effective longer. However that much stunts the hair roots of the good grass. Put it down on March 15 and another application will be due the 1st of June--just in time when the crabgrass is germinating and sticking its foot in the water for testing. This is for my own lawn in Tennessee and is fescues not the SC lawns were I use "Gallery".

borwicks
08-26-2009, 03:00 PM
That the way a lot of folks think. Did you read my post following your problem? No way will pre-em last a whole season. Rain, foot traffic, irrigation, heat, all take down pre-em. Rain takes it way below the level of the seeds. With all of the rain, no wonder there's so much crabgrass. Pre-em works best when it is just slightly (1/8")below ground level. It surrounds the seeds and frys the hair root when it sticks out of the seed hull. More pre-em per application stays on the surface longer and is effective longer. However that much stunts the hair roots of the good grass. Put it down on March 15 and another application will be due the 1st of June--just in time when the crabgrass is germinating and sticking its foot in the water for testing. This is for my own lawn in Tennessee and is fescues not the SC lawns were I use "Gallery".

Thumbs Up..I agree 100 percent.. I switched from 1 to 2 last year. Still get burned. Iam doing 3 next year.

bx24
08-26-2009, 05:08 PM
People get issues since the apply / spray too late and get break outs by curbs/driveways or they do not do split apps and/ or fall apps..

Kicker is read the labal for Pre-M / Dim EC etc..All there.

borwicks
08-26-2009, 05:59 PM
People get issues since the apply / spray too late and get break outs by curbs/driveways or they do not do split apps and/ or fall apps..

Kicker is read the labal for Pre-M / Dim EC etc..All there.

Good point. I may just spray the edges with a pre-m come this time of year.

RigglePLC
08-26-2009, 09:29 PM
Put your first application down on the day of your first mowing in spring. Apply again about 6 weeks later. (If you have had problems in the past years.)

dschribs
08-26-2009, 10:28 PM
So how's this for next year??

Pre-emergant - March 15
Another application 6 weeks later


Alos - what's the best product to use in CT???

Thanks for the help!!!

Smallaxe
08-27-2009, 09:58 AM
CG has appeared in all the irrigated lawns this year. Only in the unirrigated lawns has it not presented itself as a problem. If a lawn is established CG is never a problem unless over-watering is a common practice during the heat of summer.

Case in point: We had one lawn with new sod that we soaked for 2 weeks in June. This 'service' put down N on top of it and a pre-m along with it.

It got very hot for over a week and the sod was showing a lot of stress so rather than backing off the watering, we had to keep going till it was healthy again. By the time we finished over watering the CG was coming up in the sod within 2-3 weeks after the pre-m was put down.

The pre-m was already washed into the root zone of the sod where we wanted roots to grow.
The mythology about pre-m say many things EXCEPT what it REALLY is...

A Root Inhibitor!!! That idiot - dumped Root Inhibitor on recently laid sod!!!.

RAlmaroad
08-27-2009, 11:21 AM
CG has appeared in all the irrigated lawns this year. Only in the unirrigated lawns has it not presented itself as a problem. If a lawn is established CG is never a problem unless over-watering is a common practice during the heat of summer.

Case in point: We had one lawn with new sod that we soaked for 2 weeks in June. This 'service' put down N on top of it and a pre-m along with it.

It got very hot for over a week and the sod was showing a lot of stress so rather than backing off the watering, we had to keep going till it was healthy again. By the time we finished over watering the CG was coming up in the sod within 2-3 weeks after the pre-m was put down.

The pre-m was already washed into the root zone of the sod where we wanted roots to grow.
The mythology about pre-m say many things EXCEPT what it REALLY is...

A Root Inhibitor!!! That idiot - dumped Root Inhibitor on recently laid sod!!!.

Exactly!!! A hairline root is a hairline root whether it is from a seed or a root. That's the big reason for using "Gallery" which is the least pruning root pre-em. Dumping great quantities of pre-em at one time and expecting it to last a whole summer is a practice that I will not do. Imagine what it is doing to newly expanding roots of established lawns much less to stressed sod. I do a lot of pulling in the beginning of the warm seasoned grasses which have few crabgrass herbicides anyway.
The fescue in TN is not really much of a problem if pre-ems are applied early and regularly to keep it on the surface. Finding even a split application that keep crab at bay is still a little difficult. However finding a time to apply pre-em again is just as challenging; all of which is dependent on how much water either through irrigation or rain has occurred. Applying too much too soon will surely prune the roots and cause a thinning of grass. Applying pre em with fertilizer is just as bad--nitrogen burn. Overall "Gallery" applied with water as a carrier rather than fertilizer has worked out the best in both warm and cool seasoned grasses. In Tn, a good granular with pre-em to start the season is about all of the granular that I use; the rest of the season I let the turf tell me what it needs. I'm still a great fan of the 14-0-44 on both grasses. Of course soil test in October and April are a must in order to judge soil amendments, micros, etc.
As with all grasses, each one is different according to temps, rain, soil, IPM practices and lots of other factors, pre-em have got to used likewise.

tremor
08-30-2009, 03:35 PM
Forget using any pre-emergent in CT in March - waste of time & material.

Use Dimension TWICE - First time 4/15 & again 6 weeks later. Use .25#AI/A both times.

So if you have a .10 Dimension apply 250 lbs/Acre
if you have a .13 Dimension apply 192 lbs/Acre
if you have a .15 Dimesion apply 167 lbs/Acre

If you get the itch in March again next year spread a few bags of Solucal or similar liming material instead.

GWhunter
08-31-2009, 11:51 AM
I've been wondering the same thing. I'm here in NE ct and about to install a new lawn. I've had soil testing and was planning on hydro seeding. My hydro guy won't guarantee the work unless I add sprinklers. I'm not against the idea since it will save time for me. But I held off on doing the work this spring because of CG. I was told that the CG blooms in this area would be done by the beginning of August and that a fall plant would be best. Not I've been hitting some area's with round up hoping to kill the majority of CG before I add my topsoil/compost layer on top. I'm going to harley rake the new soil into the exsisting soil and add the recommended lime (soil test called for lime in the top 6" on soil). The hydro seeder was going to add liquid lime to the mix also. Since he said it takes awhile for the pelletized lime to actually work. So with all this prep work will my new lawn have the best chances for success? I know the my contractor is really pushing tupersan and a few other additives on my but just how effective will this be?

Matt:confused:

tremor
09-07-2009, 03:18 AM
Seeding in September is ideal. Don't delay at all now.