Oil change?

[kona]

I just got a Exmark metro and am changing the oil for the 1st time ,after the first 8 hours of use per the owners manual.
--What type of oil is best SAE 30?
--Can i use synthetic instead of conventional oil?
THANKS

[wmsland]

What kind of engine is it? Engine owners manual probably has the answer to your question.

[2 man crew]

Your owner’s manual should recommend what weight oil to use for what temperature ranges you will most likely be in.

Yes you can run synthetic oil. You may want to break it in with a petroleum oil (faster break in).

[kona]

15 hp kawasaki twin cyl

[Barkleymut]

SAE 30 is what you need and I usually run non-synthetic for the first 100 hours then switch it to Mobil 1.

[GarPA]

im no enging oil expert but the research I did supports exactly what Barkleymut told you...sae30 to break in... then synthetic is ok

[65hoss]

Mobil 1 synthetic

[kona]

Originally posted by Barkleymut
SAE 30 is what you need and I usually run non-synthetic for the first 100 hours then switch it to Mobil 1.
I have an Exmark metro w/ 15 hp kawasaki. It has 9 hours on it . I am currently using SAE oil. What type of MOBIL 1 OIL should i use. 10w30-10w40? My owners manual says that these types of oil burn faster, is that true? What do you use?
THANKS, I really do appreciate your help!!!!!
I am just starting out.

[65hoss]

After a long discussion with Fred at eXmark on this subject, I believe we came to the conclusion of 10w-30. 10w-40 if your in extremes.

[Richard Martin]

kona,

You should use Mobil 1 10w30. It is true that they will use a little more oil but it should not even be enough to add any between oil changes.

[Joe W.]

What about Mobil 1 30?

[TLS]

I prefer to use MOBIL-1 10W-30. If for anything, its cold start viscosity advantage over straight 30W oil. I haven't noticed any oil usage in any of my equipment.

[f350]

mobile has a 30wt for extreme use. i run this in my turbo buick

[digger1]

Better stay with whats recommended in your owner's manual or by the factory until the warranty period has expired. If for some unknown (unfortunate) reason you develop a major engine problem and the factory has to repair/replace the engine, the first thing they check is the oil type and maintenance records (if you keep any). Any deviation from factory recommendations gives the dealer/factory an out (i.e. your stuck with a piece of scrap iron).
For what its worth, most mechanics will tell you multi-weight is good for year round use due to temperature extremes (spring, summer, fall). I have been told that straight 30 weight is best for any engine that is kept at a constant speed with a load on it.
Good Luck with your new mower.