View Full Version : What kind of sticker is this and how to kill?
09-04-2009, 12:28 AM
I have two acres of this stuff and need to kill it.
09-04-2009, 12:37 AM
Sandburs. Very tuff to kill. Loves sandy soil, thin turf. Aerate, topdress, overseed and fertilized to improve nutrient competition.
09-04-2009, 12:40 AM
Not interested in doing that many things for it. Just was looking for some type of spray. If there's nothing simple (besides round up) then disregard. Thanks tho.
09-04-2009, 01:02 AM
I don't think Round-up will kill them but I've never tried myself. Sandbur leaves have a very "hairy" surface so weed control has a hard time getting into the plant. Google Sandbur and you'll get a wealth of info like this:
This says MSMA will work but watchout if you have any fescue grasses. Good luck
09-04-2009, 01:46 AM
Actually, it is called carpet burweed. Many people call it sandbur,spurweed, etc.. We have it in my area as well. I get calls every Spring from people wanting it controlled. It is easily killed with Trimec/3way type herbicides. There are 2 problems with this though. 1st, you must kill it before the seed(bur) develops. Otherwise, your "sticker" is still there. 2nd, prevention of more burweed germination once you've killed what's there is difficult. The reason is that typical pre-emergents will not control it. The only preventative herbicide that will work is either Simazine or Atrazine. Unfortunately, the residual pre-emergent capabilities of these is limited at best to about 45-60 days tops. Luckily, it is a cool season annual and if you can keep it out of your lawn until the weather gets hot, you've got it beat for the season. I can kill it for people but this is why I offer no guarantees to anyone except Full program customers...period. Hope this helps.
09-04-2009, 09:49 PM
MSMA is about the only thing we use on sandspur around here.
09-04-2009, 11:35 PM
Thanks very much everyone.
09-05-2009, 07:30 PM
Good answers Ted,
Preemerge is the only way to control this weed before it even starts.
The existing weed then needs to be controlled before it goes to seed or all else has failed. Like Cocklebur, once the plant is dead, the seed is left for the sticking!!!!
November preemerge and March preemerge is the only effective way to keep it out.
09-05-2009, 11:14 PM
Well the plant has been on this property for probably 3 or 4 years through the seasons. My goal is to treat it and kill it until all of the seeds from the previous seasons have become ineffective. I realize this will take 3 or 4 years. I just want to prevent any more live ones from growing and producing more seeds.
09-06-2009, 11:00 AM
You can detect this weed in the Spring after the preemerge's have been down. If any should slide through the barrier and grow, then you can treat them with a blanket spray of trimec 992 with surfactant. Monitor their death rates!!
I had a neighbor with a severely thinning bermuda lawn, and this man loved to mow his grass at 1" or less. He hadn't fertilized ever and the weeds weren't to bad but the lawn burweed was terrible. You couldn't walk across his front lawn without any shoes on. I treated his front with Barricade and Pendimethalin in March for us. I did this from my heart because my kids and his grandkids played together. I was tired of pulling out the burrs in 5 kids feet.
Keeping the turf thick if possible is the only way to keep the stuff from germinating.
09-06-2009, 11:34 AM
I've had a couple calls lately about sandburs. They want they magically sprayed so they just dissapear NOW. I have to tell them that, sorry, it's too late in the season for any chemical to make them go away. Even if they were sprayed with round-up the burs are still there. I advise that they are going to have to either hand pull them or wait till next spring and apply a good preemergent.
What's the BEST preemergent option for sandburs (carpet burweed)? I've used the "big three" (pendi, Dimension, barricade) over the years, but never was able to really ascertain which did a better job against the burs.
I've also been told, or read, that the bur seeds remain viable in the soil for about 8 years.
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