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View Full Version : Blending new wall to old yard?


4d_POWER
09-06-2009, 10:12 AM
What's a good type of fill I can bring in to add to my yard to blend in the old yard to the new wall I had placed last December.


Looking to bring in some fill, and compact it down where necessary, then adding topsoil, while sloping the yard a little more to smooth it all out.



Thanks.

forestfireguy
09-06-2009, 12:02 PM
Was that wall done by you or a contractor? I can see it looks like it was put in to increase useable space, but why was it left graded like that above? I wouldn't bring in fill. I'd either terrace the wall with another shorter one above or grade the whole yard in a more gentle way to the top of the wall. Kind of surprised a contractor would leave it looking like that at all. If you consider the cost and labor involved in moving fill up there and then topsoil I think grading would be a better choice. Can you get a small excavator or skidsteer up on top ? If not a larger excavator could do it from the bottom.

4d_POWER
09-06-2009, 01:06 PM
This job was done in January, in MD, and it was unable to be graded and filled at that time due to the weather. The wall was done by a contractor, i've tried and tried to get him back out here but to no avail. The last time I talked to him in early June he Promised Promised Promised he'd be there in 2 weeks...LOL. I guess he doesn't want to be bothered with this little job. I'm not here to cut on a contractor though. He did great with the wall. Enough's enough, time to get it fixed.

If you look at the 3rd pic, there is a sidewalk there where the wheelbarrow is,
that part will need some fill and slope.

I can get a termite up on top, my plan was to grade it a little, but I'd like to know what kind of fill would be good to use.

Thanks.

shovelracer
09-06-2009, 09:24 PM
You came here for advice right. Here is some good advice. Rip that thing out and have it done over. There is no way that the wall has geogrid judging from the cut. Backfilling it will only add load causing it to fail faster. In addition the drain rock should be wrapped and it is not. The wall appears to already be bowing above the white car, if it is it is only a matter of time till it comes crashing down.

Your options are:
1) wait till it comes down, and hope that the company is still around to be sued for repair and damage.

-or-

2) Get an engineer in there to design it right. Take the existing as a loss and shell out 3-4 times the original price to have it done properly.

forestfireguy
09-06-2009, 09:32 PM
Racer is right..........Thats good advice. I didn't want to get into the wall job and risk being insulting. Did your town require a permit for that? Here if it's over 4ft it's gotta have a permit and stamped plans from an engineer. You should ride your contractor harder, you paid him to do a job, it's not done. If he made a concession in price thats the only way I could see letting it go, BUT, I wouldn't want people seeing a job I did finished like that. If you go ahead on your own a teramite is not the machine for the job, I'd prefer a mini ex, a track skid would be my second choice. Anyway, good luck......

4 seasons lawn&land
09-06-2009, 10:29 PM
you came to the wrong place... most will try to bash the taj mahal if they didn't build it. Get ready to sort through some BS.


Any aggregate stone is fine, it looks from the pic that you would be fine to go ahead with top soil from there but you cant tell exactly from the pic.

4d_POWER
09-06-2009, 10:52 PM
ok hold up ya'll are freaking me out..


If by geogrid you mean square looking plastic like fabric. The wall is geogridded every 2 courses at least 4 feet behind the wall.
There was drain line buried and also some of the lower blocks were holesawed and have pvc drain pipe in them.
The base course was sunk in almost a whole block.
As for wrapping the drain rock, I have no idea about that.
Everything looked like it was done in a professional manner with a knowledgeable builder.
The builder is very experienced and has over 200 walls in the tri-state area using this system. Maybe that's why he hasn't come back, too busy building more walls.

Looking at the wall up close I can see no bowing at all.

Thanks for your advice. I appreciate it.

shovelracer
09-06-2009, 11:07 PM
Got any pics of the construction?

Lite4
09-07-2009, 07:27 AM
If it were me I think I would build a second shorter wall above the first and use the area in between as a real nice planter. The grade just looks too high still from the top of the soil line to the top of the wall to really get a usable grade on it. However, if this is the course of action you are leaning towards I would put in either a good drainable gravel or some clay based subsoil and pack the heck out of it with a wacker about every 8-10" you fill so you don't have much settling when you start watering everything. It still looks like you have about a 5-6' drop from the sidewalk to the top of the wall. My 1st recomendation is still just another short wall behind the first one.

4d_POWER
09-07-2009, 06:00 PM
here's another pic, the distance on the tape is 14 feet at the widest point.

Also I put up a pic of the wall.

amscapes03
09-08-2009, 09:11 PM
Build a second wall. Set the new wall back 8 to 9 feet from the existing wall.

Rivervalleylawns
09-09-2009, 12:03 AM
Im not here to bash, I will just give you another professionals advice and you can take what you want from it.
*Your elevation is atleast 8 to 9 feet over that wall at 14 feet out. Meaning that wall is going to be load bearing.
*I didnt see nothing about rebar being put vertically, or horizontally.
*You said they put 1 block in the ground. 2' is standard.
*My eye initially saw a curve in the first picture on the straightaway. The fifth picture clearly shows a curve as well. We build straight lines for a living so there easy to spot out when done poorly. We dont mean to bash, you just have to understand this is our way of showing ourselves apart from some blow smoe claiming he does alot of walls. You are parking cars there so it would be important to know if that wall can secure that load. If everything is good, the easy part would be smoothing that current slope out. Wish you the best of luck with your wall. We do have to charge a pretty penny to put them in but basic fundamentals are a necessity to have a secure wall.

CertPro
09-09-2009, 11:26 AM
Drainage aggregate behind a wall DOES NOT have to be wrapped. In fact NCMA recommends not to wrap it.

Lite4
09-10-2009, 07:04 AM
Drainage aggregate behind a wall DOES NOT have to be wrapped. In fact NCMA recommends not to wrap it.Exactly.* And tell me how exactly do you wrap stone when you are using Geogrid to support your walls tied back 4-6' behind the walls?......:dizzy:

Moneypit
09-10-2009, 10:13 PM
PiratesLandscape
Im not here to bash, I will just give you another professionals advice and you can take what you want from it.
*Your elevation is atleast 8 to 9 feet over that wall at 14 feet out. Meaning that wall is going to be load bearing.
*I didnt see nothing about rebar being put vertically, or horizontally.
*You said they put 1 block in the ground. 2' is standard.


Huh? Vertical and horizontal rebar?? Bury 2' on what looks to be a 6' wall?? Wow. You can just pretend none of that was ever said.
The wall sounds like it was built properly. The only problem I see is that it is not quite as straight as I would like it. No need to freak out.
The best and most expensive solution is to build another wall behind the existing. That way you wont have that drastic slope and you will have more useable area.
The quick and inexpensive way is to do what you want by adding fill and grading.
Good luck.

Rivervalleylawns
09-18-2009, 10:08 AM
Do us both a favor, and check with a civil engineer. How many projects have you used one on???

Moneypit
09-18-2009, 09:02 PM
Any engineer who says to do what your suggesting should have his head checked.

billwlod
09-22-2009, 11:39 AM
I see geo grid

steve5966
09-23-2009, 09:51 AM
Im not here to bash, I will just give you another professionals advice and you can take what you want from it.
*Your elevation is atleast 8 to 9 feet over that wall at 14 feet out. Meaning that wall is going to be load bearing.
*I didnt see nothing about rebar being put vertically, or horizontally.
*You said they put 1 block in the ground. 2' is standard.
*My eye initially saw a curve in the first picture on the straightaway. The fifth picture clearly shows a curve as well. We build straight lines for a living so there easy to spot out when done poorly. We dont mean to bash, you just have to understand this is our way of showing ourselves apart from some blow smoe claiming he does alot of walls. You are parking cars there so it would be important to know if that wall can secure that load. If everything is good, the easy part would be smoothing that current slope out. Wish you the best of luck with your wall. We do have to charge a pretty penny to put them in but basic fundamentals are a necessity to have a secure wall.

Rebar on a SRW? Time to find a new engineer.
3 courses buried on a six footer? See above.
Curve in the wall? Maybe. Could just be the shadows.

The PVC coming out of the middle of the wall? I hope that was ornamental.

4d_POWER
10-02-2009, 09:05 AM
Thanks for the responses guys. Right now I am unable$$ to build another wall above it. I need to use fill.

Would shale fill be the best to use, or clay type fill? I have access to both.



Thanks!