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silverado212
09-09-2009, 06:42 PM
Just got a BR600 and man I am gonna enjoy this fall. Bought a pull behind leaf vac 8 HP Briggs on it a few weeks ago for $100 bucks. Alittle rust but runs good. Going to mount it on the tongue of my trailer and build sides for a box. Leaf removal should be a breeze this fall.

Richard Martin
09-09-2009, 07:42 PM
Excellant. Make sure you read your instruction manual. Use a good quality 89 or better fuel and a good synthetic oil. It should last you a good, long time.

Also be absolutely sure to read and do everything on page 21. It tells you never to just shut the blower off after running the blower hard. You MUST let it idle for a few minutes before you shut it off.

It says this in the instruction manual for every piece of Stihl equipment I've ever owned (9 pieces). A lot of people have problems with ignition coils on Stihl equipment and the failure to follow these instructions is probably the main reason.

mowerbrad
09-09-2009, 08:02 PM
Yup, don't be cheap and buy low grade mix and gasoline. Use the high end stihl mix and good gasoline and you should be all set.

Alan0354
09-10-2009, 02:56 AM
Excellant. Make sure you read your instruction manual. Use a good quality 89 or better fuel and a good synthetic oil. It should last you a good, long time.

Also be absolutely sure to read and do everything on page 21. It tells you never to just shut the blower off after running the blower hard. You MUST let it idle for a few minutes before you shut it off.
It says this in the instruction manual for every piece of Stihl equipment I've ever owned (9 pieces). A lot of people have problems with ignition coils on Stihl equipment and the failure to follow these instructions is probably the main reason.

I thought this is pretty much a must for all other equipments. You can over heat the motor if you shut off right after WOT for a while.

Richard Martin
09-10-2009, 03:53 AM
I thought this is pretty much a must for all other equipments. You can over heat the motor if you shut off right after WOT for a while.

Most people never read their manuals. Or they do but they don't comprehend or they choose to ignore them. Just do a poll on oil change intervals one time and see what you come up with. Most Kohler and Kawsaki engines are now 100 hours on the oil and 200 hours on the filter. I've seen people say they change both at 50 hours. Why? Are they changing the oil and filter at 750 miles on their tow vehicles? Nope. The engines in our tow vehicles usually cost a lot more than a $1000 walkbehind engine. Why do they over maintain the cheap engine and ignore the expensive engine?

LushGreenLawn
09-10-2009, 07:20 AM
I was going to buy one two days ago, until the dealer told me I needed to adjust the valves once a week. I am going for the kawasaki 750.
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THC
09-10-2009, 07:25 AM
I've had a br600 for two years. I've even used it in -20C to clear snow. I use home depot brand echo oil and cheap gas and it's sthil perfect.

LushGreenLawn
09-10-2009, 07:53 AM
Never thought about using one to clear snow, is it faster than a snow blower. A 6" storm in my area is a catastrophe, state of emergency is declared and no one is allowed on the roads, that's how much snowfall we get. We usually get 2-4 inches if anything.
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WH401
09-10-2009, 08:20 AM
I was going to buy one two days ago, until the dealer told me I needed to adjust the valves once a week. I am going for the kawasaki 750.
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More like once after the first 139 hours, and then "as required" after that. Though, I would probably check the valves before the initial 139 hrs. If the rope is tough to pull on a 4-mix engine, like a 2 stroke would be because of the compression, than that's a tell tale sign that your valves need to be adjusted. IMO, this is a minor maintenance requirement and the performance and productivity that can be had from a BR600 will easily out weigh it.

THC
09-10-2009, 08:33 AM
Never thought about using one to clear snow, is it faster than a snow blower. A 6" storm in my area is a catastrophe, state of emergency is declared and no one is allowed on the roads, that's how much snowfall we get. We usually get 2-4 inches if anything.
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No. Unless you have no snow banks and it's very VERY light, 6", imo is too much. But for an inch or two, an the beginning of winter, before you have banks at the edge of the drive way, it's perfect.

Once there is banks, then even if it's half an inch, it's better to use a 4' shovel. It's fast and there's no blow back so you don't get covered with snow.

Richard Martin
09-10-2009, 03:29 PM
I was going to buy one two days ago, until the dealer told me I needed to adjust the valves once a week. I am going for the kawasaki 750.
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As long as you've been coming to Lawnsite and reading about the BR600? Tell me you're just kidding please.

LushGreenLawn
09-10-2009, 08:09 PM
As long as you've been coming to Lawnsite and reading about the BR600? Tell me you're just kidding please.

Well....Kind of kidding. That is what my local dealer, which is a huge dealer BTW, told me. I do no better, but after being told that, and realizeing that I could not get a correct answer on when they should be adjusted, I decided to buy a regular 2 stroke unit.

LushGreenLawn
09-10-2009, 08:10 PM
More like once after the first 139 hours, and then "as required" after that. Though, I would probably check the valves before the initial 139 hrs. If the rope is tough to pull on a 4-mix engine, like a 2 stroke would be because of the compression, than that's a tell tale sign that your valves need to be adjusted. IMO, this is a minor maintenance requirement and the performance and productivity that can be had from a BR600 will easily out weigh it.

I know the dealer was a little off with his estimate.

The kawi blows more air than the sthil, and was the same price, and is a regular two stroke. I guess I'l find out on saturday when it arrives if I made the right choice.

silverado212
09-10-2009, 10:22 PM
Stihl hp synthetic only. Had a little left of the black bottle Stihl oil mix so had to use that up, but HP syn from here on out.

STIHL GUY
09-10-2009, 11:05 PM
hope you enjoy your purchase

WH401
09-10-2009, 11:16 PM
I know the dealer was a little off with his estimate.

The kawi blows more air than the sthil, and was the same price, and is a regular two stroke. I guess I'l find out on saturday when it arrives if I made the right choice.

Only by 8 cfm.

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 09:13 AM
Only by 8 cfm.

Yeah, I know. I didn't really buy it for more power, I bought it to stay away from the 4 mix.

Honestly, from what I heard, they are both good blowers. I posted about the once a week valve adjustment to see what kind of reaction I would get really. It kind of floored me with the dealer told me that. I would buy a BR600 just as easily if it weren't for the incorrect dealer advice.

Richard Martin
09-11-2009, 10:47 AM
I posted about the once a week valve adjustment to see what kind of reaction I would get really. It kind of floored me with the dealer told me that. I would buy a BR600 just as easily if it weren't for the incorrect dealer advice.

To be techincal about it your dealer was correct. Stihl calls for a valve adjustment after only 5.1 days. If you're using it 24 hours a day. The BR600 manual calls for a valve adjust at 130 hours. That's it all it says about valve adjustments. Of course in the real world no one will use it for 130 straight hours. It may take some operators a couple of years to accumulate those kinds of hours if they don't have a leaf season.

Kennedy Landscaping
09-11-2009, 11:46 AM
Does the valve adjustments apply to the 550 as well? I've had mine for almost a year now and haven't done em yet. I ran it hard last leaf season though.

WH401
09-11-2009, 12:41 PM
Does the valve adjustments apply to the 550 as well? I've had mine for almost a year now and haven't done em yet. I ran it hard last leaf season though.

Yeah, I believe it's all 4-mix engines.

MnDLawn
09-11-2009, 12:46 PM
Does the valve adjustments apply to the 550 as well? I've had mine for almost a year now and haven't done em yet. I ran it hard last leaf season though.

LOL, I have 3 seasons on mine and have never checked the valves, maybe I will do that today, it's raining.

Richard Martin
09-11-2009, 04:44 PM
This is info I got from 2 factory trained Stihl mechanics.

If the valves are adjusted properly the pull start is very easy to pull. It should not take the effort that a 2 stroke engine does.

THC
09-11-2009, 05:19 PM
This is info I got from 2 factory trained Stihl mechanics.

If the valves are adjusted properly the pull start is very easy to pull. It should not take the effort that a 2 stroke engine does.

How would you adjust valves.. assuming I can find them I mean. Do you need special tools or timing light or caliper thingy?

Richard Martin
09-11-2009, 06:58 PM
How would you adjust valves.. assuming I can find them I mean. Do you need special tools or timing light or caliper thingy?

You'll need the special feeler gauge from Stihl. It's dirt cheap. I couldn't tell you how much it costs because my dealer gave me one. Remove the cover, remove the valve cover. You'll see the rocker arms. Look at the rocker arm and you'll see a U shaped channel that the feeler gauge fits into. Make sure the valves are closed and stick the feeler gauge into the U shaped grove between the rocker arm and the valve stem. There should be a slight amount of drag as you put the feeler gauge in and pull it out. More than likely it'll go in without any drag. Just adjust the rocker arm until you feel that slight amount of drag. Then put everything back together. 15 to 20 minutes at the most if you've never done it before.

THC
09-11-2009, 07:51 PM
You'll need the special feeler gauge from Stihl. It's dirt cheap. I couldn't tell you how much it costs because my dealer gave me one. Remove the cover, remove the valve cover. You'll see the rocker arms. Look at the rocker arm and you'll see a U shaped channel that the feeler gauge fits into. Make sure the valves are closed and stick the feeler gauge into the U shaped grove between the rocker arm and the valve stem. There should be a slight amount of drag as you put the feeler gauge in and pull it out. More than likely it'll go in without any drag. Just adjust the rocker arm until you feel that slight amount of drag. Then put everything back together. 15 to 20 minutes at the most if you've never done it before.

Is there a special gauge for each type of engine?

I ask because I took an old snow blower to the dealer couple years ago. While in was in there, I bought a brand new Ariens 28" for a couple grand. So then I had two snow blowers when the season started and it started with a blizzard.
Long story short, The old reliable snow blower that had it's valves adjusted and several things (it wouldn't work but gave great service for 10 years, Temucsh engine, Noma brand) but it stopped working again after about an hour of use. Then my brand new snow blower broke down too.:cry: 6 driveways into my day. 41 driveways to go with no snow blower.

So I bought another new one, a toro and it's been great ever since.

But I still have two snowblowers that don't work and one is brand new. I'm going to make a snow blower thread in a month and try and get them back to working. I don't trust my dealer to do a good job anymore.

The engine just stops.

Richard Martin
09-11-2009, 08:10 PM
Is there a special gauge for each type of engine?

The Stihl gauge is only for Stihl 4-Mix engines. It's .10 MM thick and is very narrow to fit inside the U channel in the rocker arm.

Richard Martin
09-11-2009, 08:17 PM
Let me add that most engines uses a standard feeler gauge set that is available at any auto parts store or Sears. You should have a set of these feeler gauges as part of a basic tool set. It'll look kinda like a whole bunch of flat strips of metal in a holder. They kinda fan out of the holder and each is marked as to it's size. You would read your repair manual to find out what size you need for a specific task. Usually there are also 2 brass feeler gauges included. Those are for setting magnetos, ignition coils and other applications where a magnet is involved.

THC
09-11-2009, 08:27 PM
Let me add that most engines uses a standard feeler gauge set that is available at any auto parts store or Sears. You should have a set of these feeler gauges as part of a basic tool set. It'll look kinda like a whole bunch of flat strips of metal in a holder. They kinda fan out of the holder and each is marked as to it's size. You would read your repair manual to find out what size you need for a specific task. Usually there are also 2 brass feeler gauges included. Those are for setting magnetos, ignition coils and other applications where a magnet is involved.

I think I have a set, I use it for spark plug gapping. I also have a wheel thing that has guages. Little wire loops of different sizes around the edge.

Towbear
09-11-2009, 10:09 PM
We just bought 3 more of the BR600 because of our happiness with the first two. Will probably gauge all once a year