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View Full Version : Anyone use Automotive store Oil Filters on mowers? $2.99 VS $9.99ea


TimTim2008
09-10-2009, 05:12 PM
http://betteroutdoorproducts.com/BodyPages/Images/ServiceTips/service_P1000273.JPG


I know its been asked before, but what are you guys thoughts on autoparts store oil filters?

I use a LOT of "Kohler Engines 14 to 20 HP Oil Filter OEM # 52-050-02" filters.
but i'm tired of pay $9.99 and sometimes MORE for this same filter.

Anyone use Automotive store, Oil Filters on mowers?
(from pepboys, autozone, napa, etc)


Auto oil filters are only $2.49 to $3.99
when the OEM part is sometimes $9.99 (or more) at the shops..


HELL, autozone and pepboys run a $9.99 OIL change special, that comes with a oil filter & 5qts of OIL all for under TEN bucks..


PS. is there other parts (like spark plugs, or platinum plugs) that we can use too?


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3Nd9Tirb9ow/Sm5pBxutOcI/AAAAAAAAFR8/U6idpyVyADs/s400/autozone100_3379.jpg

The Fram number is PH7575 or PH3614 ?

Fleetguard LF3335

Purolator L10241

Wix 51348

Napa 1348





Here are the Wix Specs:

Part Number: 51348

UPC Number: 765809513488

Style: Spin-On Lube Filter


Service: Lube


Type: Full Flow


Media: Paper


Height: 3.404

Outer Diameter Top: 2.921


Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed


Thread Size: 3/4-16


By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11


Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes


Burst Pressure-PSI: 275


Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM


Nominal Micron Rating: 21


Gasket Diameter (attached)


O.D. 2.734

I.D. 2.430

Thickness 0.226



VS $30+ for this BS overpriced kit

http://www.greenpartstore.com/assets/images/johndeereparts/cce/2008/lg235m.jpg

Cleve
09-10-2009, 06:48 PM
Yes, and I do get most of my filters and anything else I can from auto parts stores.
The only filters I won't use are Fram or the store brand. Just don't trust them. There are many web sites now that have good info on which filters are good and which are bad.
I do know that NAPA gold, Wix, Purolator, KN, and some other "Brand" names are also good. Just NOT Fram.

TimTim2008
09-10-2009, 06:59 PM
intresting... anyone use cheap filters in skids steers/track loaders too?

now i may not go cheap on the hydro filter and fluid..


but in the mowers ,i change them every month or 100hrs or so.. so that can add up to $ in savings

Cleve
09-10-2009, 07:06 PM
intresting... anyone use cheap filters in skids steers/track loaders too?

now i may not go cheap on the hydro filter and fluid..

Not sure what you mean by "cheap".
I won't use anything considered cheap on anything I own. Oldest mower to best auto, they all get what I hope is "best". I go synthetic whenever I can and will only use oil or filters that I have researched to make sure they are built well.
My main intent of the answer to your post was that I will purchase from most any auto parts store if the price is right.

Breezmister
09-10-2009, 07:35 PM
intresting... anyone use cheap filters in skids steers/track loaders too?

now i may not go cheap on the hydro filter and fluid..


You can use any auto filter on any mower, Wix, Fram, Napa etc. Eveyone has an opinion on which is better :confused: And yea, I have used Wix and Fram on BobCat skid streets and Kubota front end loaders

But for hydros, I always use the OME filters. I have seen what happens when you don't use the right filter, they blow up and make a BIG mess :laugh:

Need4racin
09-11-2009, 11:23 AM
I would only use a wix filter. Btw, Napa gold and Carquest blue are relabeled wix filters.

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 11:34 AM
I use (gasp) wal-mart supertech filters.

On the oil forums at bobistheoilguy.com there is a guy who runs then for 10k miles or more and then cuts them open and points out how good they still look. I do not run them in my vehicles though, because I use amsoil filters with a 15k mile oil, but if I was going to change them at 3k miles, I would.
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LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 11:36 AM
Btw, on hydros, I do buy the oem filter also, I'm worried about pressure, but they may be on the return line anyway. I figured for something that's done so little why risk it.
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VegetiveSteam
09-11-2009, 12:24 PM
How does $6.00 each for Kohler 52 050 02-S filters sound when purchased 12 at a time shipped to your door?

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 12:29 PM
How does $6.00 each for Kohler 52 050 02-S filters sound when purchased 12 at a time shipped to your door?

For oem filters from a reliable source?
Posted via Mobile Device

VegetiveSteam
09-11-2009, 01:03 PM
Yes OEM Kohler filters.

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 02:01 PM
Yes OEM Kohler filters.

OK, the suspense is killing us. Where do you get your filters from.

VegetiveSteam
09-11-2009, 03:16 PM
That is the price I sell them for when bought by the dozen.

TYCINC
09-11-2009, 03:20 PM
I use (gasp) wal-mart supertech filters.

On the oil forums at bobistheoilguy.com there is a guy who runs then for 10k miles or more and then cuts them open and points out how good they still look. I do not run them in my vehicles though, because I use amsoil filters with a 15k mile oil, but if I was going to change them at 3k miles, I would.
Posted via Mobile Device

yep and supertech oil. . no problems for me! I dont get why people say Fram is no good. . I havent had any problems and ppl I know haven't had probs with em. . .

2Brosmow
09-11-2009, 03:56 PM
wix, purolator & super tech for me. All are good filters, much better than the fram filters. Do a little research you will see why the fram filters are junk.

Kanstulman
09-11-2009, 04:06 PM
Oil Filters Revealed

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

Recommended Filters

Based on the simple criteria above and the information I gathered in the Oil Filters Revealed, I have found some filters that are readily available and are of good quality in my opinion. I have disassembled many filters and made observations and measurements on them. Sadly, some of the most common and popular filters don't cut it in my book. Those filters are described in the next section. The filter names are also links to the reference filter page, which gives the intimate details of that filter in the Chrysler/Ford reference filter version. You will find all the hard data for these filters there. What follows are filters that I recommend in alphabetical order:

AMSOIL

The SuperDuty line of filters is no longer being sold by AMSOIL. They now have their "Absolute Efficiency" line of filters that are intended for long duration use along with their premium synthetic oils. The SuperDuty filters had to be changed out at least once between oil changes. From the pictures, they appear to be manufactured by Donaldson. Donaldson manufactures filters mainly for truck applications intended for long duration use. They also manufactured the Hard Driver filter, which I used with great success for several years.

Baldwin

These filters are well constructed and are highly regarded in trucking circles. They don't have as much surface area as some others, but they are one of the best filters you can get for around $5. These are the filters I have been using lately.

Bosch

This used to be another Champion Labs filter sold at Auto Zone, but now it is made by Purolator. It has an impressive surface area and uses a cellulose/synthetic blend media. This should result in well-above average holding capacity. I generally like the Purolator design as well, so I wouldn't hesitate using a Bosch after verifying it was still a Purolator.

Carquest

Like NAPA, they sell two lines of oil filters. One is painted red and the other is painted blue. They are both made by Dana/WIX and the blue one is supposed to be better.

Fram Tough Guard

Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.

Hard Driver

This was one of the few oil filters that uses a fully-synthetic filter element with a dual-density layering "depth" media. The construction of the filter is what you would expect from a quality filter with steel filter element caps and special epoxy-coated steel mesh retainers to keep the element from flexing. It also has a good flowing, strong steel case and a zinc-coated backplate to prevent preinstallation corrosion. I used these for a few years with no problems until Donaldson stopped manufacturing them. Donaldson does list part number P169071 in their Endurance line for the same application. This may be a viable substitute for the Hard Driver.

K&N

It's a white Mobil 1 filter with a nut welded to the back. It's made by Champion Labs using what I call their "performance" design instead of the "Ecore". Save the $2-$3 plus shipping and get the Mobil 1.

Mobil 1

This filter is made by Champion Labs using what I call their "performance" design instead of the "Ecore". It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and has a high holding capacity. It is rated by the manufacturer at just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. Given the choice between the Purolator Pure One and the Mobil 1 filters, I would choose the Mobil 1 because of the restriction concerns of the Pure One. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have seen this filter sold at Auto Zone and K-mart and used them a few times, but I feel they are not worth the money in the end.

Though I have never had problems, I had received feedback from a few people back in 1999/2000 that these filters may leak at the base. It seems that the seal between the backplate and can may burst under high pressure (at startup). These were on Ford engine applications.

Motorcraft

The one I opened in 1999 seemed to be a Purolator hybrid. It had the Premium Plus case (anti-drainback valve, gasket, etc), but with what appeared to be a Pure One filter element. This was a cheap way to get a Purolator Pure One. It is sold at many locations including Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. I have heard from several people that Motorcraft seems to switch between Purolator and Champion Labs as the manufacturer so be observant. The Motorcraft I took apart in 2008 appeared to be a regular Purolator Premium Plus. Not worth the extra couple of bucks anymore in my opinion, but it probably looks snazzy under a Ford hood.

NAPA

They sell two lines of oil filters: NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. They are both made by Dana/WIX and there is no obvious difference between them. They may have different elements, but NAPA does not state that this is the case.

PowerFlo

This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Murray's Auto Supplies.

ProLine

This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Pep Boys. Pep Boys also sells the Purolator Premium Plus brand, which is pretty dumb (to be selling both).

Purolator Premium Plus

The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter elements of the low-end filters and the bypass valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end caps. In the ProLine (one of the Purolator clones), the string was wrapped too tightly and had damaged the filter element. All the other Purolator-made filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably have been fine. I usually go with these in a pinch or when recommending the cheapest oil filter possible.

Purolator Pure One

This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.

WIX

Another quality oil filter similar in design to the Purolator. It has metal end caps on the filter element, a standard nitrile anti-drainback valve, and a seemingly good flow. They are manufactured by the Dana corporation. These appear to have a depth gradient filter element, which uses cotton fibers to progressively trap smaller particles as they get deeper in the filter. This helps maintain good flow as the filter gets plugged.

Filters To Avoid

The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

AC Delco Duraguard

AC Delco no longer seems to manufacture oil filters. They are now made by Champion Labs using their new "Ecore" design. See that section below for the details.

Champ (Ecore)

Champion Labs touts their new "Ecore" design as a major advancement in oil filter technology. In my humble opinion, they are a major advancement in cost savings for Champion. I have no data to back this up, but that's what fiber end caps and plastic core tubes say to me. I particularly don't like their "patent pending" bypass valve design, which depends on the stamped leaf spring at the back of the filter to regulate the bypass pressure. One unlucky dent in the back of the can knocks it out of whack, assuming it was correct to begin with.

Fram Extra Guard

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Fram High Mileage

Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.

Pennzoil

This filter is a Fram. It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State

This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Pennzoil...

STP

This is a Champion Labs "Ecore" filter that I have seen at Auto Zone and Walmart.

Breezmister
09-11-2009, 07:04 PM
I have found some filters that are readily available and are of good quality in my opinion.

Thank you for taking all the time it must have taken to do this. Bottom line tho, what in your opinion are the top 5 filters ?

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 07:10 PM
That is the price I sell them for when bought by the dozen.

I don't mean this as a personal attack on you, but a random member on lawnsite is not really a reliable source. Who knows where the origin is? mabye China from someone who has a Kohler stencil in his little hut.

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 07:13 PM
One thing I have always wondered...

OEMs outsource their filters, they really don't make their own, so how do we know they are quality filters? They could be sourcing them from champion (the makers of the Wal-Mart filters) or fram or any other filter that gets a bad rep.

BTW, a previous post trashed champions encore design, but after doing some research, including looking at pictures of used ones cut open, I like the design.

Breezmister
09-11-2009, 07:42 PM
One thing I have always wondered...

OEMs outsource their filters, they really don't make their own, so how do we know they are quality filters? They could be sourcing them from champion .

Exactly :drinkup: But back in the day, I know that Kawasaki filters had "Made in Japan" on them...So I don't know if they still do or not :confused:

VegetiveSteam
09-11-2009, 07:46 PM
I don't mean this as a personal attack on you, but a random member on lawnsite is not really a reliable source.

This is definitely true. I can't argue that. On the Internet it's hard to know for sure who you're talking to.

A lot of people trust their expensive equipment to random members advice on Lawnsite.

My personal feeling is, why would you use anything other than an OEM filter? The original post talked about 9.99 filters versus 2.99 filters. For 7 bucks is it worth the gamble? Especially when the quality of the aftermarket filter is in question or this thread would have never been started. What do the aftermarket filter companies do if your engine fails because of their filter? Give you another filter? I can tell you first hand what Kohler will do. Within 90 days (which is the standard part warranty) if the Kohler engine is damaged by a defect with the Kohler filter, Kohler will repair the engine. Same goes for air filters.

My back and forth to work car is a 91 Taurus with 170,000 miles on it. Until the last oil change that car had never had anything other than a Motorcraft oil or air filter on it. No reason really other than I like to use OEM filters. I stopped at Auto Zone the last time to get my oil and filter and they had a special on 5 quarts of oil and a Fram filter for less than I could normally buy 5 quarts of oil. Being hard to pass up I bought the special and I used the Fram filter. I've never been a big Fram fan but a company doesn't stay around 80 years making junk filters. Still I am uncomfortable with not having a Motorcraft filter on my car. I guess we all have to be anal about something. Are there better filters on the market? I'd say definitely yes. Is the Fram filter going to damage your engine? I would have to say probably not. But. If the oil filter does fail what happens then? Who picks up the bill?

I'm not on here trying to sell filters. I was just stating what I sell mine for.

Check with your Kohler dealer about buying in quantity. I'm sure you can buy them cheaper than 10 bucks.

LushGreenLawn
09-11-2009, 11:58 PM
Another thing that has crossed my mind is this:

I have seen push mowers last for years...my dad has had the same push mower ever since I can remember. I'm 28 now, and can remember my older brother using it since way before I was old enough to push it. It has been used enough to have the engine put on 3 different decks.

That engine takes no filter. Yes, the newer engines are a little more advanced, but its really just a bigger small engine. Does the oil filter really matter that much, especially since these little motors come with canister air filters that should be on a dump truck.

TimTim2008
04-15-2013, 07:11 PM
i cant find them for $2.99 anymore.. lol. its more $4.99 now for aftermarket

kgs1
04-15-2013, 09:00 PM
there is a nice tread by 'precision' at the top of this forum on oils & filters.....good stuff!

Nate'sLawnCare
04-15-2013, 09:49 PM
I'll pay the difference for a better quality filter. If I change my oil every 50 hours, the $7 difference works out to be 14 cents per hour. Compare that against replacement or even fuel costs per hour for your equipment, it's not much in the overall scheme of things.

zackvbra
04-18-2013, 01:54 PM
i dont buy generic parts store brands. I buy OEM everything from my dealer. Sure it costs more, but why stray off what is specifically designed for the piece of equipment?