View Full Version : Something to be careful of...

09-11-2009, 10:56 AM
A friend of mine that also cuts grass recently looked at his 16ft trailers frame and side rails and noticed the vertical support pieces for the side rails on the passenger side in the rear of the trailer were completly cracked!! His trailer is only around 4 years old! We came to believe it happened as a result of constantly loading and unloading heavy mowers, when you run a mower on or off a trailer, you can see the back part sink down pretty much and the part behind the rear wheels has little support. I welded the pieces back together and added some extra bracing. I remember he once thought about adding some sort of drop down pieces that would drop to the ground when loading, but he never did. I am going to start watching my own trailer for this.

09-11-2009, 12:02 PM
If you're handy at welding, you can add support braces to the sides (like you did), and/or weld brackets to the outside of the rear of the trailer and put sliding supports in them. The supports could have "foot pads" on the bottom to keep from sinking in to asphalt on hot days. You would slide them down to ground level and use a heavy duty pin or bolt to hold them in place, that way the rear of the trailer will have support, just like a tongue jack, when the weight of the mowers get to the rear of the trailer. I saw a trailer with a support system like this a few years back and thought it was a good idea. It wouldn't be very hard nor expensive for you as it sounds like you know what to do with a welder. Or for those who don't want the hassle of welding and creating a support system, you could always place jack stands under the rear, which is very easy as well and probably just as fast to do at a job site. Just my .02

Kennedy Landscaping
09-11-2009, 12:08 PM
What brand was the trailer?

09-12-2009, 02:20 AM
I dont know what make his trailer is? No labels anywhere? But it is heavy duty, the frame is made of 3"x5" angle steel and the top rails are 1/4" thick angle 2"x2". The jackstand idea that slides down to the ground was what he wanted to do but never got around to it, now he just uses WBs so nothing that heavy anymore so he probably wont do it, Well I wont do it, as I do all his welding for him! I am going to keep an eye on that part of my trailer from now on though.

09-12-2009, 02:42 AM
I have seen new trailers that should not be allowed to go on the road.

Might just be a cheap built trailer to begin with.

09-12-2009, 02:51 AM
Manufacturing flaws. Build them cheap and charge high price, that's how lots of things are nowadays.

Richard Martin
09-12-2009, 07:41 AM
I have a 16 foot Mid Atlantic and run a 1200 pound Dixie Chopper up and down it all day long. I was under mine yesterday adding a 12 volt source and everything looked fine. I'll look at it a little closer today since I wasn't looking for a problem yesterday.

Lawn Pawn
09-12-2009, 10:32 AM
.....the frame is made of 3"x5" angle steel.......

In my opinion...... and we know how those are. If the frame is not channel or box tubing, it's not a quality trailer.

May be better just fixing this with a new one.

Lawn Pawn
09-12-2009, 10:37 AM
.....the frame is made of 3"x5" angle steel.......

In my opinion...... and we know how those are. If the frame is not channel, square or rectangle stock, it's not a quality trailer.

May be better just fixing this with a new trailer at this point.

09-12-2009, 10:43 AM
Richard Martin, How are you adding the 12 volt source? What is the purpose?

Jay Ray
09-12-2009, 11:11 AM
Usually the greatest distance between vertical supports is where the axles are.

It's a cantilever situation when unloading/loading.

Supports placed at an angle, like a crane boom, maybe 1/2 x 3 flat bar over the wheel area might reduce the stress at the vertical supports. This would create a slight pinch point and reduce the width available for loading, otherwise angle iron would be better.

Richard Martin
09-12-2009, 11:13 AM
Richard Martin, How are you adding the 12 volt source? What is the purpose?

Eh... A cop pulled over while I was stopped on the side of a busy road to service a lawn. Although I put a cone out and have a small flashing Amber LED light he "requested" that I get something better and a little brighter. I have a 12 volt Whelen Guardian 150 dual Amber strobe but much like just putting the hazards on, I didn't want to chance killing the battery.

So I have a couple of old LED tail and brake lights that the side marker is burned out of. I have a couple of old plastic battery boxes that I'd accumulated over the years and cut one to mount on one of my round fenders up higher. I got a LED flasher from www.superbrightleds.com (under $10), a waterproof switch and the old tail light and mounted the whole thing on my left fender.

I use a 7 pin connector for my truck and trailer. The truck already had 12 volts at pin number 4. It was just simply a matter of running a black 14 guage wire from the light on the fender up to the trailer connector and putting it on pin 4. I also connected it to my break-away battery for my trailer brakes so now that gets charged every time the truck runs. Most utility trailers don't bother putting a way to charge that little battery. Mine was down to 6 volts but now it's back up to 12.6.