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View Full Version : Kaw not running right????


SunState Lawn Care inc
09-12-2009, 06:30 PM
I have a twin cyl Kawasaki I think this one is 17HP but might be wrong, anyway the mower was running fine then it just shut off sitting idleing.

My son tried to crank it back up it will run for about 10-15 seconds then die down, if you choke it it will try and run some more but dies out again and so on. If it sits a minute it will crank and do the same again some times it spit back through the carb when you play with the choke trying to make it run more. I cleaned the carb out and retried with the same results, We took the carb to the shop we deal at and had him go through it also he found nothing either so we tried it all again with the same results.

The motor has gas pumping out of the fuel pump when you pull it over and the bowl on the carb has gas in it after it shuts off. I pulled the valve covers and all the valves are moving in and out. We used different gas from another tank to make sure it wasn't water in the gas as well right after the shop cleaned the carb.

I bought a spark checker and haven't tried it yet to see if it is firing all the way until it shuts off yet but thought I would ask and see if anyone has had this issue before. This has been a great motor so far it doesn't have many hours on it, it has mostly been a spare or one my son does his side jobs with.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Restrorob
09-12-2009, 08:06 PM
I bought a spark checker and haven't tried it yet


Post the results of this test......

SunState Lawn Care inc
09-13-2009, 08:27 PM
Both coils fire until the motor stops running any ideas?

Restrorob
09-13-2009, 08:49 PM
I have a couple but would like to have the engine model AND spec numbers off the white bar code label on the engine block.

SunState Lawn Care inc
09-14-2009, 05:50 PM
Code FH451V-AS08

E/NO FH451VA39277

Restrorob
09-14-2009, 08:29 PM
OK SS,

You have confirmed rocker movement so we can assume it has enough compression to run since it does fire off for a few seconds, The spark test shows ample spark to the point the flywheel stops moving. You have fuel from the fuel pump and the carb has fuel in the bowl on shut-down.

With the above I can't help but to think there's still something inside the carb plugging a port/passage or jet.

Now, Since I've found problems with carbs that other tech's couldn't let's focus on how you cleaned the carb.

Here's your carb;

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/KawiFH500and531CarbBreakdown.jpg


Parts that should have been removed for cleaning;

By Ref. #

1) #2
2) #20
3) #17
4) #31
5) #32
6) #11
7) #19 but not that critical if it doesn't fall out on it's own when #20 is removed, Just spray that port good.

And of course the float needle valve, In the very tip of #11 is a small port the size of a wire brush bristle and should be checked with one to make sure it's open.

All other jets/passages and ports should have spray type carb & choke cleaner with the little straw (no gumout brand) shot through them followed by compressed air if available, You want to see light through all jets and see cleaner exit the other end of ports/passages when sprayed.

If you didn't remove #2 let me know, There is a process that will save a little time.....

SunState Lawn Care inc
09-14-2009, 10:16 PM
RR I cleaned it and also took it to the repair shop and had them clean it and soaked it also neither made a change in it. I didn't remove #2 when I did it, I don't know if they did but would think they did they are a pretty good shop.

Restrorob
09-14-2009, 10:46 PM
Have you replaced the spark plugs since it stopped running the first time ?

Do you have a compression tester ?

Although not as good as a leak-down tester it would show if there's enough compression for proper running.

Merkava_4
09-15-2009, 12:55 AM
With the above I can't help but to think there's still something inside the carb plugging a port/passage or jet.


One of the best tips I ever got was from a guy who owns a mover shop: He told me he uses torch tip cleaner wires to clean out carb passages and orifices. I tried his recommendation on a B&S carb with fantastic results. There were 2 holes in front of the jet that were plugged up with white corrosion -- I assumed from sitting over the winter with water condensation in the fuel. The tip cleaner removed the white powdery corrosion that a burst of carb cleaner would have never done.

Restrorob
09-15-2009, 11:53 AM
Just thought this should be posted here as well since I agree with what pugs states;


Dont use those. They will end up making the holes larger if you are not careful which could cause the engine to run poorly. Honda has a set of Jet cleaners. They look like torch tip cleaners but they are smooth so you wont grind material away. Use these or any other smooth small wires for this.

SunState Lawn Care inc
09-22-2009, 06:31 PM
GUys thanks for the input I have boiled it down to the fuel pump and will get one tomorrow and replace the old one.

Thanks

I MOW ALONE
12-29-2009, 10:33 PM
OK SS,

You have confirmed rocker movement so we can assume it has enough compression to run since it does fire off for a few seconds, The spark test shows ample spark to the point the flywheel stops moving. You have fuel from the fuel pump and the carb has fuel in the bowl on shut-down.

With the above I can't help but to think there's still something inside the carb plugging a port/passage or jet.

Now, Since I've found problems with carbs that other tech's couldn't let's focus on how you cleaned the carb.

Here's your carb;

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Kawasaki/FH/KawiFH500and531CarbBreakdown.jpg


Parts that should have been removed for cleaning;

By Ref. #

1) #2
2) #20
3) #17
4) #31
5) #32
6) #11
7) #19 but not that critical if it doesn't fall out on it's own when #20 is removed, Just spray that port good.

And of course the float needle valve, In the very tip of #11 is a small port the size of a wire brush bristle and should be checked with one to make sure it's open.

All other jets/passages and ports should have spray type carb & choke cleaner with the little straw (no gumout brand) shot through them followed by compressed air if available, You want to see light through all jets and see cleaner exit the other end of ports/passages when sprayed.

If you didn't remove #2 let me know, There is a process that will save a little time.....

having a problem with this carb. took off and cleaned because it was surging at idle only and ran fine otherwise now after cleaning it fires right up but will only run good half choke. took off again cleaned again same thing but did notice on #11 the small port at tip may be plugged should i be able to spray carb cleaner through it cause i cant. i tried to open with the tip of a needle and it wont open like it is metal and should'nt be open :confused:. have good flow to carb.