PDA

View Full Version : What oil do you use? 5w or 10w?


TimTim2008
09-13-2009, 03:17 AM
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3Nd9Tirb9ow/Sm5pCkKuyCI/AAAAAAAAFSM/bLdZ-IgnIGg/s400/autozone100_3382.jpg

What type oil do you use?

I see some of you guy use 10w30, some 5w30, Some Synthetic, some regular..

I've been using 5w30 Regular, but i may upgrade to Synthetic

4.3mudder
09-13-2009, 01:36 PM
15W40 Rotellla diesel oil in all my stuff. Yes, there are gasoline engines.

greendave
09-13-2009, 09:58 PM
15W40 Rotellla diesel oil in all my stuff. Yes, there are gasoline engines.

Here we go again.

WHY would you use that weight oil in engines it's NOT supposed to go in? Do you know more about modern day engine design than the engineers? Are you a tribologist?

Sheesh.

Roger
09-13-2009, 10:19 PM
greendave, I agree with you. I continue to be astonished at this question. Every owner's manual provides the specifications for oil to be used, yet the question still arises. Yes, I ask the same question: Why are you mowing lawns if your expertise in lubrication engineering is better than those who design the engines, and those who warranty them? An engineer who has responsibility for the design and creation of specifications certainly has a better paying position than mowing grass. How does somebody get smart about these matters by following a lawn mower all day?

4.3mudder
09-13-2009, 11:38 PM
Here we go again.

WHY would you use that weight oil in engines it's NOT supposed to go in? Do you know more about modern day engine design than the engineers? Are you a tribologist?

Sheesh.


WTF??, I don't have to be any of the people to know what I can use.

There are lots of people who use higher weight oils in engines due to less oil usage.

The equipment that I have some of it was used when I bought, lots of hours, ran rough. Oil consumption was high using straight 30, and or 10W30.

You switch to a higher weight oil, all those problems are kept to a minimum.

Next time, think before you speak. I have been running that oil for a long time now with no issues, because there won't be any kind of issues.

Plus, what would be cheaper. Stripping the engine down to put a set of rings, or keeping the oil topped off?

4.3mudder
09-13-2009, 11:40 PM
And if you read the label on the back of the jug, it will say for diesel and gasoline 4 stroke engines. READ.

greendave
09-14-2009, 01:11 PM
WTF??, I don't have to be any of the people to know what I can use.

There are lots of people who use higher weight oils in engines due to less oil usage.

The equipment that I have some of it was used when I bought, lots of hours, ran rough. Oil consumption was high using straight 30, and or 10W30.

You switch to a higher weight oil, all those problems are kept to a minimum.

And you open up the possibility for a host of other problems

Next time, think before you speak. I have been running that oil for a long time now with no issues, because there won't be any kind of issues.

I did think first. And I stand by my reply. I'm sick and tired of all of you tribologist wannabes out there thinking 'thicker oil is better.' Well, it's NOT. Try sticking that 15w40 oil in any late model overhead cam engine and see how long it lasts.

Plus, what would be cheaper. Stripping the engine down to put a set of rings, or keeping the oil topped off?

Or replacing the engine due to bearing failure brought on by oil starvation?


If your equipment is so old and tired that it needs thicker oil to run properly, then I would submit you have bigger problems than oil can 'fix.'

greendave
09-14-2009, 01:13 PM
And if you read the label on the back of the jug, it will say for diesel and gasoline 4 stroke engines. READ.

And how about if YOU read the owner's manual for the engine and FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS for PROPER oil usage.

1998tahoe
09-14-2009, 01:25 PM
5w40 rotella synthetic. If it will run a diesel with turbo temps around 1250-1500 degrees it will run a small engine for ever. At least with proper oil and filter changes.

greendave
09-14-2009, 02:00 PM
5w40 rotella synthetic. If it will run a diesel with turbo temps around 1250-1500 degrees it will run a small engine for ever. At least with proper oil and filter changes.

Yup. Most any synthetic will far outperform a conventional motor oil.

whoopassonthebluegrass
09-14-2009, 02:26 PM
I've found that 75-90 gear lube is the way to go for all my machinery.

4.3mudder
09-14-2009, 03:23 PM
If your equipment is so old and tired that it needs thicker oil to run properly, then I would submit you have bigger problems than oil can 'fix.'

And how about if YOU read the owner's manual for the engine and FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS for PROPER oil usage.

Look you need to lay off. You got everything side tracked because of your BS negativity because I use a different oil.

My equipment runs fine, did you not read that, or you probably misinterpreted that. You run thicker oil in and engine to reduce oil consumption.

Now, if I had a brand new or gently used machine and was using it, I would run the specified oil that is designed for it such as 10W30 or straight 30. But, used equipment i have done that in the past, it does not work, it burns oil, not a lot, but I don't want to have to keep putting oil in it so I choose a thicker weight to reduce.

Talk to nosparkplugs on here, he will tell you the same thing.

grass_cuttin_fool
09-14-2009, 04:13 PM
greendave, I agree with you. I continue to be astonished at this question. Every owner's manual provides the specifications for oil to be used, yet the question still arises. Yes, I ask the same question: Why are you mowing lawns if your expertise in lubrication engineering is better than those who design the engines, and those who warranty them? An engineer who has responsibility for the design and creation of specifications certainly has a better paying position than mowing grass. How does somebody get smart about these matters by following a lawn mower all day?

And the diesel oil is severe duty and is actually approved for air cooled engines....dont be so quick to dis Mudder.....Ive been using it for years and never had an oil failure...Shell rottella 15/40 user here also

LushGreenLawn
09-14-2009, 04:21 PM
And the diesel oil is severe duty and is actually approved for air cooled engines....dont be so quick to dis Mudder.....Ive been using it for years and never had an oil failure...Shell rottella 15/40 user here also

Approved by who, the oil company or the engine MFG.
Posted via Mobile Device

dbvolfan1
09-14-2009, 04:21 PM
My CC Tank with a 23hp Kawi reocmmends 15w-40 Shell Rimula which is basically a premium version of rotella. I've not used 'diesel' oils in a non-diesel before but CC CS sweares thats what I should use.
Furthermore, I know a bunch of Yammi FJR owners I ride with who have used nothing but Rotella in their 4 cylinder engines for 100k plus miles and swear by it.

grass_cuttin_fool
09-14-2009, 04:36 PM
Approved by who, the oil company or the engine MFG.
Posted via Mobile Device

Im not getting into a pissin contest here....unless you are in canada and operating in a colder climate about any oil will do.....diesel oils are just formulated for higher engine temps, and the make up of the oil is designed to catch and trap dirt and soot better than conventional car oils.... The fleet garage I worked for....the Mobil one, cheveron, castrol and shell reps told me the same thing and recommended me to a diesel oil for my mowers.....4000 hours total on my machines....Im a believer

pugs
09-14-2009, 06:32 PM
My CC Tank with a 23hp Kawi reocmmends 15w-40 Shell Rimula which is basically a premium version of rotella. I've not used 'diesel' oils in a non-diesel before but CC CS sweares thats what I should use.
Furthermore, I know a bunch of Yammi FJR owners I ride with who have used nothing but Rotella in their 4 cylinder engines for 100k plus miles and swear by it.

Thats what they recommend for the hydraulics....not the engine.

Kawasaki recomends straight 30.

I cant vote as you dont have SAE 30 in your list.

greendave
09-14-2009, 07:14 PM
Look you need to lay off. You got everything side tracked because of your BS negativity because I use a different oil.

You're the one who started replying in caps, my friend. I didn't sidetrack anything with my BS negativity, I was pointing out for the less experienced here that straying from manufacturer recommended oils can have unwanted side effects if you don't understand what's going on. One size does not fill all with today's ICE's.

My equipment runs fine, did you not read that, or you probably misinterpreted that. You run thicker oil in and engine to reduce oil consumption.

Sounds to me like you're covering up a mechanical problem. If you want to, you can. I don't recommend it, and I can't ever recall reading that in an owner's manual either. You did also state in one early post that your engine "ran rough," and the wording inferred that the oil viscosity was the cause, and that putting in thicker oil in 'fixed' the problem.

Now, if I had a brand new or gently used machine and was using it, I would run the specified oil that is designed for it such as 10W30 or straight 30. But, used equipment i have done that in the past, it does not work, it burns oil, not a lot, but I don't want to have to keep putting oil in it so I choose a thicker weight to reduce.

Good enough.

Talk to nosparkplugs on here, he will tell you the same thing.

He's a tribologist or engine designer?



.......................

greendave
09-14-2009, 07:15 PM
I've found that 75-90 gear lube is the way to go for all my machinery.

:D I like your style.

jkilov
09-14-2009, 07:36 PM
I mostly use 10W-40 semi-synthetic or 10W-30. Like the first one much better. 10W-30 turns dark really fast, like it can't handle the heat of air cooled engines, consumption also is much higher. At the scheduled oil change 10W-40 looks and smells better (not scientific I know) and my 36" WB is doing fine after about 1500hrs with this oil.

4.3mudder
09-14-2009, 10:50 PM
greendave, you need to look over everything one more time. First of all, "ran rough", the equipment was run rough meaning it was used hard when other people had it before me. get it? Used hard, abused, ran till the wheels fell off. Simple.

All caps in the wording, started on your post first of all, Number 3, go take a look. Your post with the 2 words "WHY" and "NOT". You see any caps other than for punctuation in number 2 post, didn't think so. Ya, you may see some caps in mine later down the thread but thats expanatory.

Why did I start off by saying what i use, no one said what specific model of engine it was going in, how many hours did it have, and was it a new or used model.

We don't have to be engineers to put a certain oil in a machine. If it works and runs to it's full potential, then so be it.

greendave
09-14-2009, 11:24 PM
greendave, you need to look over everything one more time. First of all, "ran rough", the equipment was run rough meaning it was used hard when other people had it before me. get it? Used hard, abused, ran till the wheels fell off. Simple.

All caps in the wording, started on your post first of all, Number 3, go take a look. Your post with the 2 words "WHY" and "NOT". You see any caps other than for punctuation in number 2 post, didn't think so. Ya, you may see some caps in mine later down the thread but thats expanatory.

Why did I start off by saying what i use, no one said what specific model of engine it was going in, how many hours did it have, and was it a new or used model.

We don't have to be engineers to put a certain oil in a machine. If it works and runs to it's full potential, then so be it.

"The equipment that I have some of it was used when I bought, lots of hours, ran rough."
This phrase, from one of your posts reads as though the equipment ran rough, as in did not run smoothly. Your choice of words didn't convey the thought that it was mistreated, or not well cared for - to me, anyway.

"Why did I start off by saying what i use, no one said what specific model of engine it was going in, how many hours did it have, and was it a new or used model."
And this statement you made was what I was driving at with my first post: the wholesale endorsement of something not recommended without qualification, as you did in your first reply.

And yes, I capitalized 'why' and 'not' for emphasis. You, however, capitalized your words for other purposes. And, when someone replies with a "WTF", and we all know what it means, it sets a negative and defensive tone that just sends these threads down the toilet.

Let's just agree to disagree, and leave it at that.

Merkava_4
09-15-2009, 01:41 AM
One of my old Honda manuals for the GX200 specifies 10W-40, so that's what I've been using for all my 4 cycle engines. Valvoline Premium is the brand I use.

dbvolfan1
09-15-2009, 08:06 AM
Thats what they recommend for the hydraulics....not the engine.

Kawasaki recomends straight 30.

I cant vote as you dont have SAE 30 in your list.

No, seriously...the Kawi Manual that came with the Tank indicates that I should use 10w-30. The Tank manual from CC indicates that 15w-40 Rimula is preferred but that 10w-30 is fine. I contacted Cub Care about it and they said Rimula was recommended for both the hydraulics and engine itself. My local CC dealer said the same thing as well.

I agree though that 10w-30 feels right and will probably switch to that at the next interval.

greendave
09-15-2009, 07:31 PM
One of my old Honda manuals for the GX200 specifies 10W-40, so that's what I've been using for all my 4 cycle engines. Valvoline Premium is the brand I use.

If Honda says it's good for one specific application of theirs, what would make it better than what is spec'd, for say, a (insert unit here)?

greendave
09-15-2009, 07:32 PM
Guys, there is some great reading on this site: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
I'm sure there's others, too.

AVLC
03-02-2010, 11:04 AM
the sythetic rotella diesel oil 5-40w is good for gas motros with more hours or miles because the clearences are larger in the cylinder so the thicker oil helps lubricate better. Never had any problems with this oil all of our motors run good.

SLR
03-10-2010, 02:14 PM
I don't touch the oils with a lowly & rediculous 5w in it!(unless it's winter,
then it's 0 weights)
I run 10w40's only. In my blazers manual it reads: use 5w30 only, to which i been laughing at for the last +decade, 10w40's only (for summer usage) in all my combustables!

joel29m
03-10-2010, 02:42 PM
10w 30 in the winter, 10w 40 in spring- summer.
Posted via Mobile Device

SLR
03-10-2010, 02:53 PM
I've found that 75-90 gear lube is the way to go for all my machinery.

I actually did this in a ring/piston blown'n CT70 to seal it up..worked good for another month, then i sold it for $150.

VegetiveSteam
03-13-2010, 12:32 AM
I may have missed part of the question but the only question I saw was "What kind of oil do you use?" That question makes me ask the question, "What kind of oil do I use in what?" Like I said, maybe I missed the complete question but without knowing what the oil is being used in I couldn't even begin to guess what type of oil to recommend.