View Full Version : PG- Ultra

09-16-2009, 10:39 PM
this isnt really the right forum, but this is where i think it will be seen by folks who could use this info

the B+S motor on my machine was junk again after last season, due to the
motor being NLA, and i not being impressed or interested in PG's ultra upgrade kit-- i had the motor rebuilt
i had this rebuilt by a shop 2x this year and got about 4 months out of it,
running crummy most of the time-- and cost about $300

so this brings me back to my original feelings about B+S motors,
they are cheap and when they croke you buy new

My Solution:
i purchased this motor brand new from an online retailer $350
BRIGGS 121607-0562 there may be other models that will work
this is a 6.5hp vertical intek motor with NO pto shaft
very similar to the oe motor

i ordered base gasket #14-1029 $4
crank seal 32-1037 $1
pto seal 32-1042 $1

i took the bottom sump pan with pto off of my old motor and swapped it
onto the new motor, changed a few other parts
i will post some pics and details tomorrow

any ways , i have a new motor up and running

09-16-2009, 11:15 PM
JB,thanks for the information. I was considering a rebuild--but dealer was worried about problems with aluminum block. Cancel that idea.

Your solution is brilliant. I hope it works out OK. Somewhere there has to be a motor with a pto shaft that suits the Ultra situation. My home lawn mower has a PTO shaft but it comes out the left side. (Tecumseh)

So if the shaft came out on the left--you would have to shift the spreader to the left or the motor to the right...hmmm. Or add an additional right angle bevel gear. Or maybe a small belt to connect the two horizontal shafts...or maybe drive the spinner with the big drive pulley. Maybe rotate the motor 45 degrees.

Your idea is sweet.

ted putnam
09-17-2009, 12:01 PM
Your idea is sweet.

Yes it is... I would like to know more details, specifically, parts necessary and your online supplier. It would be a great winter project for me and my guys.

09-17-2009, 09:11 PM
got the new motor from tulsa engine warehouse

took a few pics while i was assembling
needless to say, this is the motors internals, clean everything and work in a clean enviroment

basically heres what i did
1. drain engine oil from both old + new
2. remove clutch from old motor, and old motor from machine,
3. flip motors upside down and remove 7
3/8 bolts from bottom of sump pan
4. carefully pry pan off with flat screwdriver
it will come off easy so dont gouge the metal
5. pull start cord -to turn motor over until the timing marks on the
crank and cam gear align
6. remove governor assy from new motor,
it sits loosely on the shaft above the cam gear
just slide it up and off
7.remove cam shaft, grab and wiggle while pulling up;
on old motor the governor and cam shaft are an assembly
they remove as 1-- carefull there is a thrust shim @ the end of shaft
8.install old cam assy into new motor, b sure timing marks are aligned
9. carefully pry old crank seal out of sump pan with screwdriver, clean bore
and put a dab or rtv on outside race and install new seal with seal installer or large socket + hammer will do
10.remove allen screw from bottom of sump pan, use a punch and tap the
roll pin out of the pto gear, remove pto shaft retainer bolt and clip, slide out pto shaft, pry pto seal out and install new(like above), reassemble pto shaft
11. clean engine case mating surfaces- remove and old gasket material 1st and wipe with thinner or other
12.dab mating surfaces with RTV and install gasket
13. align governor assy to the governor arm(this will be very obvious when your looking at it)
14. install old sump pan onto new motor, it will just slide right down into place
dont force, and be sure cam is aligned in sump pan as you slide is down
15.install 7 bolts, i used 20 ft lbs, not sure the actual spec
16. fill with 20 oz 10w30 oil

the new motor had a different style muffler that was larger and fired directly to the front of engine, so i swapped the muffler from my old motor (side firing)onto the new 1

on some versions of this briggs motor the tach/kill wire terminates at the throttle plate, if this is the case simply unplug the kill wire from the coil and
plug in the wire from your old motor

some variations have different throttle/ carb provisions, it may be necessary
to swap out the whole throttle plate assy and carb from your old motor,
if you have alot of hours on your old carb, save yourself some headaches
and just replace it with new now

the replacement motor i got, had a larger external of flywheel alt as compared to my original motor-- looks like a good thing, should provide
better amps for batt and pump- ill post back on this once i test with meter

09-17-2009, 09:14 PM
more pics here

ted putnam
09-17-2009, 11:18 PM
Looks like you might be able to put an exhaust deflector on that new muffler and use it. My muffler's pretty well shot...