PULL Backflow preventor

[PI&L]

do you pull the back flow pereventor when winterizing or drain it and leave in place. If you pull it what do you do with it on residential or commercial jobs?

[AI Inc]

Blow thru it , and leave it.

[Mike Leary]

pereventor

That describes most of the forum members. :rolleyes:

[AI Inc]

Sad part is Mike , untill ya pointed it out, it looked fine to me,lol

[PI&L]

you blow through the back flow:confused::confused:

[Mike Leary]

We've done it with our compressor that can be adjusted for psi. 7psi is all that's needed for backflow winterize.

[AI Inc]

you blow through the back flow:confused::confused:

Yes , we ignore the book and put the blowout on the supply side where it belongs.

[mitchgo]

If the BFP is the heart of the system and the controller is the brain.
I want to make sure my heart is safe.

Yes I blow through backflow devices.

I personally don't think you need to reduce your PSI just for the backflow device.
I like a quick 1-2 seconds of going though TC #2 with #3 and #4 open. Then blow out through your quick coupler or TC # 4.

[Waterworks R Us]

you can do what you want, i am a certified backflow tester in tn. i love to repair backflows damaged by my irrigation competitors who think its ok to blow them out . when i go to repair their damaged backflows and tell the customer why its damaged i usually gain them as a irrigation customer. im not stealing their customer they lose them because of ignorance. Backflows internal parts exist of rubber and plastic that is intended to flow water not air , and why leave the device exposed to the weather when its not even being used thats my opinion everyone has their own.

[whoopassonthebluegrass]

Installing a Wilkins 375 BFP (http://www.sprinkler.com/buy/item/wilkins_375/1182) tomorrow. Perfect solution: 4 bolts and you take the guts inside for the winter.

[Waterworks R Us]

i totally agree with you on the wilkins 375 thats all i install now

[AI Inc]

Installing a Wilkins 375 BFP (http://www.sprinkler.com/buy/item/wilkins_375/1182) tomorrow. Perfect solution: 4 bolts and you take the guts inside for the winter.

RPZ is not too common around here. Only use em when we have to. Otherwise its a Febco 765-1.

[HokieAg07]

Blow through them, if on unions remove water from supply side standpipe, put back on unions and go home.

Break a few #1 check springs now and then but other than that no issues..

[AI Inc]

If blowing thru them kills 10 out of 1100 , 9 out of those 10 were probably ready for replacement anyways.

[M L Thomas]

Depends on type.

Majority of ours are FEBCO 825's, some 805 DC's and 765 PVB's. We have winterized thru all of them for 23 years with no problems. Watts devices do not like air. Wilkins are slightly more tolerant.

In our area our meters are mostly in pits in the front yard. In order to winterize and not go through the device we would have to connect to meter, blow to device then change connection to downstream side of device and do the rest of the system. Instead as stated we install 825's and do not have a problem.

[DanaMac]

If blowing thru them kills 10 out of 1100 , 9 out of those 10 were probably ready for replacement anyways.

I agree here. If we break something in the RP or the PVB, it was probably on it's way out anyhow. I'm not spending another 30 minutes on every single job installing a blow out port. If I was installing, I would put one in though. and if I did, it would be after the backflow preventer, with a bibb/spigot hooked in. That way I don't have to un-thread a plug, blow out, re-tape the plug, and thread it back in/pull it out because it cross threaded/re-tape and try again. Hook to a bibb device and open up. Less time, more money through the day. Much quicker to hook to the TC as well, as opposed to a threaded tee.

[Wet_Boots]

With all I go through with RPZ's they can stay outside.

[jerryrwm]

When you remove them from the line for the winter, do you test them in the spring when you reinstall them? Don't they require them to be tested if removed from the line?

[AI Inc]

Around here very few towns even test. Only 1 town that we work in tests and the water dept does it if on town water. If on a well , not testing is done.

[Mike Leary]

Around here very few towns even test. Only 1 town that we work in tests and the water dept does it if on town water. If on a well , not testing is done.

That's bull.........our purveyors realized there could be a conflict-of-interest if they tested and we took over not only the City, but the Fire Dept, too.

[AI Inc]

Mike do you still have that fire protection BF testing gig going?

[DanaMac]

No testing here, except for some commercial. Do what the hell we want here in the wild wild west

[Mike Leary]

I pretty much quit doing it because of the logistics and liability involved. I think Russ is doing a few of them, but it is a royal pain.

[Waterworks R Us]

All water purveyors have their own set of rules not sure about there but in the south backflow prevention has become a big issue. Here local water purveyors have to meet state regulations but they can exceed them to what ever extent they wish . state minimum requires ALL BFP be tested annually in state of tn. So check with your local water dept. to find out their requirments.

[alf500series]

okay so back to the question-- i was told by a local irrigation company that you can winterize the system by hooking up to the last nipple(output end) of the backflow device and and running the air thru that--is that going to hurt the backflow device? and if so how do you winterize the system.
spell it out for us dummies out here.

[Mike Leary]

okay so back to the question-- i was told by a local irrigation company that you can winterize the system by hooking up to the last nipple(output end) of the backflow device and and running the air thru that--is that going to hurt the backflow device? and if so how do you winterize the system.
spell it out for us dummies out here.

A cheap ass bicycle pump will do it; they only need 7 psi. We've also run low pressure compressor air with no melting.

[alf500series]

but how is 7 psi going to clear out the irrigation lines-they are going to need at least 40 some psi aren't they?

[Mike Leary]

but how is 7 psi going to clear out the irrigation lines-they are going to need at least 40 some psi aren't they?

Back the clown car up; I meant ONLY the backflow preventer, not the system.:hammerhead:

[alf500series]

okay thats what i figured but where do hook into to blow the lines out at?

[Mike Leary]

Most of us slimeball, piker lowlifes use a quick-couple valve downstream of the backflow preventer for the compressor. I still prefer the hand pump for backflow. You can go in at the backflow, but be carefull with pressure.

[alf500series]

what if the system doesn't have one of those?

[mitchgo]

Go through the last test **** of the back flow assembly.

If they aren't avb valves you can dig up a head and connect up that way

You could plumb in your own quick coupler.

[alf500series]

but does it hurt to run thru the last valve of the backflow device?

[Mike Leary]

You could plumb in your own quick coupler.

If you do, make it a brass swing joint into a brass tee; that will absorb the heat of the compressor.

[alf500series]

got a pic of what that would look like?

[Mike Leary]

but does it hurt to run thru the last valve of the backflow device?

Carefull with the pressure, you could melt the plastic checks and retainers.

[Mike Leary]

got a pic of what that would look like?

You flatter me; suffice to say it should be a swing joint of all brass. Let's see if I can remember: 1/ Rain-Bird 33DLRC quick couple valve w/key to take compressor, 2/ 3/4" brass 90 ells and close nips at the top, 1/ 6" 3/4" brass nipple, 1/ 3/4" 90 ell & close nip into brass 1" x 3/4" thr tee. Sch 80 m.p.t.into brass tee.

[Kiril]

A brass swing joint.

[Mike Leary]

A brass swing joint.

Like to see that sch 80 & brass! :clapping: