View Full Version : Southern Brown patch
09-26-2009, 09:25 PM
What works best,,,, and the fastest
What works best,,,, and the fastest
Anyone, Bueller, Bueller.............anyone..........:confused:
09-27-2009, 04:47 PM
Heritage, Insignia or Compass. Followed by Eagle 20 EW, followed by Prostar. I do not believe in one application treatments for a diseased lawn. Fungicides work very well for me. I go through a rotation with three different chemical classes/MOA on a diseased lawn. On cost, that is included. I never play the kind of games concerning a landscape's health that insurance companies play with human health. Yes, I charge more per 1000 sq ft, however I never go back to a client to tell them "this application is not included, it will cost you extra". As I said, I plan on having to put a lawn on a three fungicide rotation at least once per year. If disease happens more than that, I look at irrigation and the fertilization program which I have control over. I want nothing to do with someone that wants a cheap program, because the first time their lawn looks bad, I will be caught telling them something will cost them extra and if you think they did not want to pay up front, asking them to pay later will not go over any better.
09-27-2009, 06:11 PM
I'm guessing that your turf to be treated is St. Augustine. Listen to Greendoctor; he speaks the truth. Rotation of fungicides are super important. If you are treating several lawns, Insignia is the most cost effective per 1000K-though expensive initially. Certainly use the Eagle and Prostar. These are all water soluble products and most are not available in a granular form. Generally put these WILL NOT CURE a fungus but prevent it or clear it up. Summer Patch, Take-all, and other fungi should be considered in your IPM program as a positive and will be there to deal with regardless. A final note is that fungus will never be eradicated but lies dormant and a final deep Application of Heritage or Insignia should be put down just before grass goes dormant. On the coast of SC this will happen about mid-October.
Greendoctor really knows his warm-seasoned grass. My lawns are still green while others are browning, my lawns are still lush and thick, while many are thinning and sick. I got a big bowl of cookies and "My yard still looks pretty not like....next door" this weekend while some "others" got a good cussing!
Let us know what you decide.
09-27-2009, 06:18 PM
Or firing. If I let a lawn patch out or die, I am no better than the long line of "landscapers" and yard people the client has had in the past. It is also my belief that a well fertilized lawn is more resistant to diseases. My fertilizer program is high in micronutrients, accounts for soil pH and puts down lots of potassium. No SCU, XCU or granular urea goes down on my lawns. Back when I used to use those types of fertilizers, I would be seeing lots of leaf spot, brown patch and Take All.
Or firing. If I let a lawn patch out or die, I am no better than the long line of "landscapers" and yard people the client has had in the past. It is also my belief that a well fertilized lawn is more resistant to diseases. My fertilizer program is high in micronutrients, accounts for soil pH and puts down lots of potassium. No SCU, XCU or granular urea goes down on my lawns. Back when I used to use those types of fertilizers, I would be seeing lots of leaf spot, brown patch and Take All.Okay, so what should the process be?
Eagle or Prostar first, then the final with Heritage?
Yes its St. Augustine. Thanks
09-27-2009, 09:24 PM
I would start with Heritage or Insignia, then Eagle, then Prostar. Heritage is the most systemic of the three. Apply it with a good nonionic surfactant, 2-4 gallons per 1000 and application technique that covers leaf and stem tissue thoroughly.
09-27-2009, 09:44 PM
One more thing, get some potassium and micronutrients down. Those do not "feed" disease and will aid grass in resisting and recovering. I apply 1/2 lb K per month and a micronutrient mix that has iron and manganese in it. Zinc and copper will be added if the soil test indicates a need.
09-27-2009, 11:12 PM
i agree with green doctor but i know no one here that would pay for this kind of application guideline. but, we live in totally different climates and the norms are different. here, one app at max rate usually takes care of it, never comes back and the fast changing weather here plays a huge role in that too!
09-28-2009, 12:06 AM
I will agree that it is a different story when bermuda or st augustine sod is around $2.00 a sq ft and zoysia is at least $3.00 a foot. That does not include labor to prep and unroll. Having a lawn die on me due to a bad herbicide mix or uncontrolled disease can get expensive.
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.