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grassmasterswilson
10-06-2009, 11:54 AM
I am in North Carolina along I-95 and in the last couple of years the fire ants have really moved in. I first noticed them on commercial properties and this year they have moved into my high end residential.

I am thinking of adding fire ant treatments to my list of services. Haven't seen many guys advertising it so it might be good.

For those who treat them.... are you doing a blanket app or treating individual mounds? How do you charge compared to weed apps? What products are you using?

tomslawnservice
10-06-2009, 04:05 PM
Hi, I live in Louisiana and we have them all over the place here. I don't treat them commercially because I don't have a license to. But for my own yard I found the best way is to get rid of them is to use Ortho Orthene.( It is a white powder that comes in a bottle) Just sprinkle a little on the mounds and wait a couple of days.
Then come back and use a all season long product. They come in lots of brands and all work about the same. But I prefer the ones that you don't have to water in.
If you don't get rid of the mounds first the all season stuff won't work at all.
I pay around $20.00 for 5,000 sqaure feet of coverage.
Hope this helps

grassmasterswilson
10-06-2009, 07:42 PM
thanks tom.

I have also found this that my local ag university puts out.

http://ipm.ncsu.edu/agchem/5-toc.pdf

fire ant products are on page 214 and 215. anyone else like any of these products or would stay away from certain ones?

Jimmie
10-06-2009, 09:32 PM
Top Choice is the best for fire ants.
http://www.backedbybayer.com/Bayer/CropScience/BackedByBayer.nsf/id/EN_NoFireAnts_Home

gregory
10-07-2009, 08:24 PM
not trying to be a smart ass but use the search button and you will find alot of info.. ric has had alot of info on fire ants

couillion
10-10-2009, 09:45 AM
I am in North Carolina along I-95 and in the last couple of years the fire ants have really moved in. I first noticed them on commercial properties and this year they have moved into my high end residential.

I am thinking of adding fire ant treatments to my list of services. Haven't seen many guys advertising it so it might be good.

For those who treat them.... are you doing a blanket app or treating individual mounds? How do you charge compared to weed apps? What products are you using?


Fire Ants are a way of life here, get used to them. You can control them, but because they can easily migrate from field to field, it's been difficult to eradicate them.
I've been using Orthene 75% Turf, Tree & Ornamental Spray Insecticide with success for years. Spot treat the mound with up to one tablespoon, larger mounds require more. I include this as part of my price and service, it's easier on the equipment. I use 3 to 4 pounds per year at about $13.00 per one pound can.
I've recently started using TalStar PL broadcast in my own yard for year round control, it seems to work for about six months. I get 2 applicatons from a 25 pound bag, cost for a 25 pound bag was about $1.00 per pound.

gunsnroses
10-10-2009, 10:10 AM
Use bait, you have to kill the queen

Ric
10-10-2009, 04:37 PM
Use bait, you have to kill the queen

Gunsnroses

You said kill the Queen. What about ploymorphic polygyne Solenopsis invicta or monomorphic polygyne Wasmania auropunctata or Solenopsis geminatta which are polymorphic and both monogyne and polygyne. These are all Fire Ants and not the original Polymorphic monogyne Solenopsis invicta fire ants that are native to Brazil??? Or do you even have a clue of what I am talking about?

Why Buy Bait when in fact you can make your own.

Level Teaspoon of Boric Acid

2.5 oz of Honey or corn syrup

Heat slowly until the Boric Acid has Liquefied and then add 3 oz of water.

Most all species worker ants can not digest solid food. Therefore Liquid baits are sometime a better choice. Queen ants eat the Nectar of the god's or the Honey Dew from the larva that can digest solid foods. Solid food baits might get to the queen quicker but Liquid baits will bring down the total population quicker and still get to the queen.

Of course there is more than one way to skin a cat. But Knowing the Morphology of the species you are trying to control and the environment in which they live helps you make better choices of control methods.


BTFingW This post is my attempt to raise the bar here at LS so I don't have to read about 3 dog toys being sprayed by some fool and having it made into a International incident by the rest of the fools.

Have a nice day.

lawnspecialties
10-10-2009, 07:32 PM
BTFingW This post is my attempt to raise the bar here at LS so I don't have to read about 3 dog toys being sprayed by some fool and having it made into a International incident by the rest of the fools.

Have a nice day.

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

gunsnroses
10-10-2009, 11:05 PM
Gunsnroses

You said kill the Queen. What about ploymorphic polygyne Solenopsis invicta or monomorphic polygyne Wasmania auropunctata or Solenopsis geminatta which are polymorphic and both monogyne and polygyne. These are all Fire Ants and not the original Polymorphic monogyne Solenopsis invicta fire ants that are native to Brazil??? Or do you even have a clue of what I am talking about?

Why Buy Bait when in fact you can make your own.

Level Teaspoon of Boric Acid

2.5 oz of Honey or corn syrup

Heat slowly until the Boric Acid has Liquefied and then add 3 oz of water.

Most all species worker ants can not digest solid food. Therefore Liquid baits are sometime a better choice. Queen ants eat the Nectar of the god's or the Honey Dew from the larva that can digest solid foods. Solid food baits might get to the queen quicker but Liquid baits will bring down the total population quicker and still get to the queen.

Of course there is more than one way to skin a cat. But Knowing the Morphology of the species you are trying to control and the environment in which they live helps you make better choices of control methods.


BTFingW This post is my attempt to raise the bar here at LS so I don't have to read about 3 dog toys being sprayed by some fool and having it made into a International incident by the rest of the fools.

Have a nice day.

164020


I dont know why you want to nerd out with an aggressive tone on me.
First off if you didnt read what grassmaster said....he has multiple properties for ant control, not a patch of dirt he can mix up some honey and smear around. Take advion for example, I would much rather toss .5 oz per thousand as a broadcast bait than mix some honey in a spraypaint can lid. He is trying to make a living. Do you think ants colonies with multiple queens or single queens demand a separate type of control? or were you just trying to impress everyone by throwing up some latin. Edumacate me. Rotate your baits just like you would any insect control (I never said liquid was not bait). BTFing way, do you think raising the bar at lawnsite is advising a professional to use honey!? Tell me how after you explain to the homeowner that their dog died because it ate 6 ounces of borax laced honey.... or was that a chew toy. ps germinata has only one t.
Have a nice day, and I hope you take this in good fun conversation and not so pissy

ted putnam
10-10-2009, 11:25 PM
Gunsnroses

You said kill the Queen. What about ploymorphic polygyne Solenopsis invicta or monomorphic polygyne Wasmania auropunctata or Solenopsis geminatta which are polymorphic and both monogyne and polygyne. These are all Fire Ants and not the original Polymorphic monogyne Solenopsis invicta fire ants that are native to Brazil??? Or do you even have a clue of what I am talking about?

Why Buy Bait when in fact you can make your own.

Level Teaspoon of Boric Acid

2.5 oz of Honey or corn syrup

Heat slowly until the Boric Acid has Liquefied and then add 3 oz of water.

Most all species worker ants can not digest solid food. Therefore Liquid baits are sometime a better choice. Queen ants eat the Nectar of the god's or the Honey Dew from the larva that can digest solid foods. Solid food baits might get to the queen quicker but Liquid baits will bring down the total population quicker and still get to the queen.

Of course there is more than one way to skin a cat. But Knowing the Morphology of the species you are trying to control and the environment in which they live helps you make better choices of control methods.


BTFingW This post is my attempt to raise the bar here at LS so I don't have to read about 3 dog toys being sprayed by some fool and having it made into a International incident by the rest of the fools.

Have a nice day.

:laugh::laugh::laugh: Hey Ric, if you look at the board, you can see which "fool" started the thread and then you don't HAVE to read anything. BTFingW, Boric Acid laced doughballs work pretty good for Roach bait too. I hear they're as big as small dogs(the Roaches that is) down in your part of the world. Have a nice day...:laugh:

Chilehead
10-10-2009, 11:36 PM
Top Choice is the best for fire ants.
http://www.backedbybayer.com/Bayer/CropScience/BackedByBayer.nsf/id/EN_NoFireAnts_Home

Yes it is, but have you seen the price of TopChoice lately? It's insane!

Ric
10-11-2009, 12:27 AM
164020


I dont know why you want to nerd out with an aggressive tone on me.
First off if you didnt read what grassmaster said....he has multiple properties for ant control, not a patch of dirt he can mix up some honey and smear around. Take advion for example, I would much rather toss .5 oz per thousand as a broadcast bait than mix some honey in a spraypaint can lid. He is trying to make a living. Do you think ants colonies with multiple queens or single queens demand a separate type of control? or were you just trying to impress everyone by throwing up some latin. Edumacate me. Rotate your baits just like you would any insect control (I never said liquid was not bait). BTFing way, do you think raising the bar at lawnsite is advising a professional to use honey!? Tell me how after you explain to the homeowner that their dog died because it ate 6 ounces of borax laced honey.... or was that a chew toy. ps germinata has only one t.
Have a nice day, and I hope you take this in good fun conversation and not so pissy

Gunsnroses

Please check all your fact before engaging your keyboard. Boric Acid is in fact also used as a Eye Wash and FOOD PRESEVATIVE. I am sure you and your dog have already eaten a teaspoon of Boric Acid many times with out any ill effects.

BTFingW If you re read my post I said "Of course there is more than one way to skin a cat. But Knowing the Morphology of the species you are trying to control and the environment in which they live helps you make better choices of control methods." What I might of missed saying is the economic or budget you have to work with is also a factor in choice of control methods. But somehow the members of LS seem to only care about what chemical will kill everything that moves and nothing about learning anything else.

I challenge the members of LS to raise the bar and actually start posting some real Educational threads. Some suggestion might be the basics that most members seem to skip over like HOW TO READ A LABEL, Or WHAT ARE CHEMICAL GROUPS NUMBERS and what does that number stand for? Let us not forget the MSDS and PRIMARY HAZARD CLASS OR DIVISION etc etc.

PS Gunsnroses don't take it personal, You were the last to post and I was looking to go off on everybody.

Chilehead

Top Choice is a good product, BUT it does not last in sandy soil. Your post is just what I am talking about when I say people only care what Chemical to use and nothing more about how it really works or where to use it. Sorry to go off on you as a individual, I am actually going off on everyone.

ted putnam
10-11-2009, 12:46 AM
[QUOTE=Ric;3224732]

WTF didn't you go off on me too! You included me as one of those fools in that thread about the dog toys. I mean really...I should have been offended but I wasn't. Overall, I thought that thread was pretty assinine myself...considering the source.


PS Gunsnroses don't take it personal, You were the last to post and I was looking to go off on everybody.

Ric
10-11-2009, 11:45 AM
[QUOTE=Ric;3224732]

WTF didn't you go off on me too! You included me as one of those fools in that thread about the dog toys. I mean really...I should have been offended but I wasn't. Overall, I thought that thread was pretty assinine myself...considering the source.


PS Gunsnroses don't take it personal, You were the last to post and I was looking to go off on everybody.

Well Ted

Wear those boots if they fit. I mean I would hate to slight you when in fact only a select few get the full wrath of the Cantankerous Old Guy.

gunsnroses
10-11-2009, 12:37 PM
Gunsnroses

Please check all your fact before engaging your keyboard. Boric Acid is in fact also used as a Eye Wash and FOOD PRESEVATIVE. I am sure you and your dog have already eaten a teaspoon of Boric Acid many times with out any ill effects.


.

I do not agree with you telling me to check my facts. Ld50 is 2000mg for a rabbit. A teaspoon of borax is about 4 grams, that is enough to kill a dog twice the size of a rabbit. Lots of dogs in that size range, just sayin'. I do agree the bar should be a bit higher, though I think that is impossible on this forum. We all see how unexperienced some folks are, besides there are many homeowners that chime in. What is the fix? I think we all can filter what we reply and read. If I post a false statement please call me out, I am here to learn like everyone else. I dont believe anyone is here to provide a free service to society. I am not taking things personal on here, lord knows we all have bigger things to worry about. Cheers

Ric
10-11-2009, 01:38 PM
I do not agree with you telling me to check my facts. Ld50 is 2000mg for a rabbit. A teaspoon of borax is about 4 grams, that is enough to kill a dog twice the size of a rabbit. Lots of dogs in that size range, just sayin'. I do agree the bar should be a bit higher, though I think that is impossible on this forum. We all see how unexperienced some folks are, besides there are many homeowners that chime in. What is the fix? I think we all can filter what we reply and read. If I post a false statement please call me out, I am here to learn like everyone else. I dont believe anyone is here to provide a free service to society. I am not taking things personal on here, lord knows we all have bigger things to worry about. Cheers

Gunsnroses

Use some common sense. Are you actually going to put out 6 oz of bait in one place where a dog or child can get it??? Most liquid baits don't have a teaspoon of liquid or well under the LD 50 for a cat etc. You are nit picking trivial things.

But you do make one good point. I now agree it is impossible to raise the bar on this forum................

gunsnroses
10-11-2009, 04:26 PM
Gunsnroses

Use some common sense. Are you actually going to put out 6 oz of bait in one place where a dog or child can get it??? Most liquid baits don't have a teaspoon of liquid or well under the LD 50 for a cat etc. You are nit picking trivial things.

But you do make one good point. I now agree it is impossible to raise the bar on this forum................

well if you are still speaking of your boric syrup mix then I say bad idea, dogs sniff out gas leaks, cancer, bombs, etc .... If you are speaking about professional product baits then we are on the same page. not nit picking

Ric
10-11-2009, 05:52 PM
well if you are still speaking of your boric syrup mix then I say bad idea, dogs sniff out gas leaks, cancer, bombs, etc .... If you are speaking about professional product baits then we are on the same page. not nit picking

Gunsnroses

Give me a Break fool. I do some consulting for a few Citrus Gloves. Using a Quart Ball jar and chick watering lid we make our own Liquid bait traps. Filling them with a Quart of the Boric Acid Syrup mix. They are covered with a 5 gallon bucket to keep water etc off them. They are placed every 150 feet. After years of doing this I have never heard of a problem. BTW the Growers have Hog Dogs as well as family pets that run free in the groves. This of course is Control Methods at the most economic level for large acreage.

PS I have seen commercial Rat Bait Boxes torn apart by dogs before ant baits. Unless you get that dog to the vet, He is a goner.

gunsnroses
10-11-2009, 11:48 PM
Ok you win Ric To fully answer my first reply in my personal opinion. Here is what I would do or try to sell.

I would buy a 12lb bag of advion, you should find it for under $150.00
broadcast at 1.5lb per acre. One bag covers about 344,000 square feet, or 8 acres. With .25 acre properties you could do + or - 33 homes. If you charge a .5 hour minimum of 40.00 per hour = 20.00. Sell product at x 3 mark up from wholesale. At about 34.00 per lb to keep it simple or close to $8.50 per 1/4 acre lot.
1 home at 20.00 minimum labor
plus $8.50 per home on product

at $28.50 per home....not a bad price.
33 homes at $28.50 each = almost $940 from one bag. You will never be perfect with footage so it is an approximate figure. IMO that is how to make money. Do 3-4 apps per year and you have made an extra 3,500 for the season. Not a bad way to skin a cat

LilesLawn
10-12-2009, 02:02 AM
Top choice is the best. Need to blanket, otherwise you just chase them from one area to another.

Ric
10-12-2009, 10:21 AM
Ok you win Ric To fully answer my first reply in my personal opinion. Here is what I would do or try to sell.

I would buy a 12lb bag of advion, you should find it for under $150.00
broadcast at 1.5lb per acre. One bag covers about 344,000 square feet, or 8 acres. With .25 acre properties you could do + or - 33 homes. If you charge a .5 hour minimum of 40.00 per hour = 20.00. Sell product at x 3 mark up from wholesale. At about 34.00 per lb to keep it simple or close to $8.50 per 1/4 acre lot.
1 home at 20.00 minimum labor
plus $8.50 per home on product

at $28.50 per home....not a bad price.
33 homes at $28.50 each = almost $940 from one bag. You will never be perfect with footage so it is an approximate figure. IMO that is how to make money. Do 3-4 apps per year and you have made an extra 3,500 for the season. Not a bad way to skin a cat

Gunsnroses

OK now let us run my numbers for skinning the cat.

Karl

Hopefully you are reading and will verify my numbers since you use the same program and post that fact in the past. And we buy chemicals together.


My Numbers:

I was paying $ 15.46 a quart but recent price increase is now $ 24.00 a quart. A quart of Bifen XTS will cover 5 + acres or rounding off for sales tax $ 5.00 per acre. Now add 1/2 gallon of Joy dish soap from Wally world cost $ 2.97. Total cost per acre $ 8.00. Cost per 1/4 acre is $ 2.00 and it will get fleas, ticks, chinch bugs, etc etc as well as other species of Ants that Advion doesn't control. So one Quart will get 20 stops of 1/4 acre properties @ $ 50.00 each or $ 1,000 gross off a $ 24.00 quart of Bifen XTS. And they say you can't legally steal.

The fact is and Karl can once again verify, At those margins I bought a used Truck and put a 300 gallon skid sprayer with chemical injector just to spray Bifen XTS. I paid back my total capital out lay in 1.5 months and I only work part time as I am just about to turn 69 years old next Monday.

As long as egos come into play we can't fix stupid or raise the bar here at LS. I am a fool for even trying.



LilesLawn

Friends in Texas tell me Top Choice can give up to 14 to 15 months control in Texas' clay soil. Gee that too bad, because you are missing a great opportunity at a great margin to up sell services to a current customer by seeing them only once a year. You have to remember, The greenest thing in the green industry is the green back dollar.

gunsnroses
10-12-2009, 10:41 AM
Damn Ric you win again you old fart! try Aloft if you havent...

Ric
10-12-2009, 10:56 AM
Damn Ric you win again you old fart! try Aloft if you havent...

Gunsnroses

It is not a matter of win or lose but trying to raise the bar of the industry in general. It is unfortunate that the green industry attracts those who can't make it in structured jobs and brings down the public perception on our industry. We are seen as Lawn Boys and reading threads here like spraying 3 dog toys only goes to prove that.

Ric
10-12-2009, 11:01 AM
Damn Ric you win again you old fart! try Aloft if you havent...

Oops I guess I would have had more luck talking to a refrigerator, At least when I opened the door a light would have come on.

gunsnroses
10-12-2009, 11:27 AM
164191

Ric can we talk about something else?

gregory
10-12-2009, 12:10 PM
what ric says is the truth i started to use his fire ant control this year and haven't had one problem i spent 15.00 to 16.00 for the bifen xts and i got 40k sq of turf to spray.the last 2 years i was using top choice and i was getting control for 6-8 months at the price i was paying wasn't worth it this way is alot cheaper and just as good.....so that qt will last me all year... not bad no fire ants no chinch bugs all for 16.00 per year..


ric on a side note i called him and he told the price was 15-16 for the qt i called him about that ag stuff you were telling me about and asked him so if you want let me know and i will just get for you again from him svae your self 60.00 per case

gregory
10-12-2009, 12:10 PM
nice pic guns.....

gregory
10-12-2009, 01:58 PM
never mind ric he called me back and told the same price

Volman
10-12-2009, 02:24 PM
Ric,
What is the purpose of the dish soap in your mixture. Does that not cause prolems in the tank?

Ric
10-12-2009, 02:55 PM
Ric,
What is the purpose of the dish soap in your mixture. Does that not cause prolems in the tank?

Volman

Dish soap acts as a sticker spreader and also breaks surface tension to allow the insecticide to sink in. Soap in itself is a insecticide in the fact that it breaks the molding cycle of insects so they can't go to the next instar. Of course all of what I have talked about in this thread should be covered in your applicators Manual. Add some understanding and a little common sense and it isn't rocket science. Hug! or maybe it is for some people.

Karl

Yes when we were getting Bifen XTS for $ 15.46 it was a price mistake and under cost. Sorry I was only buying one case at a time then. But at $ 24.00 a quart it is still 60% of what Lesco wants to sell it for. Thanks again for turning me on to that great price.

BTW Karl, Doesn't Gunsnroses picture look like the girl I just broke up if you put blond hair on her??

fl-landscapes
10-12-2009, 02:58 PM
Volman

Dish soap acts as a sticker spreader and also breaks surface tension to allow the insecticide to sink in. Soap in itself is a insecticide in the fact that it breaks the molding cycle of insects so they can't go to the next instar. Of course all of what I have talked about in this thread should be covered in your applicators Manual. Add some understanding and a little common sense and it isn't rocket science. Hug! or maybe it is for some people.

Karl

Yes when we were getting Bifen XTS for $ 15.46 it was a price mistake and under cost. Sorry I was only buying one case at a time then. But at $ 24.00 a quart it is still 60% of what Lesco wants to sell it for. Thanks again for turning me on to that great price.

BTW Karl, Doesn't Gunsnroses picture look like the girl I just broke up if you put blond hair on her??

Ric,

Dont sell yourself short I think your ex was even hotter then the one on this thread.....think I'll give her a call now that you broke it off:laugh:

Volman
10-12-2009, 03:41 PM
I understand it breaks some surface tension. And NO it is not in my applicators manual (using dish soap). What about any problems sudsing up in the tank?Volman

Dish soap acts as a sticker spreader and also breaks surface tension to allow the insecticide to sink in. Soap in itself is a insecticide in the fact that it breaks the molding cycle of insects so they can't go to the next instar. Of course all of what I have talked about in this thread should be covered in your applicators Manual. Add some understanding and a little common sense and it isn't rocket science. Hug! or maybe it is for some people.

Karl

Yes when we were getting Bifen XTS for $ 15.46 it was a price mistake and under cost. Sorry I was only buying one case at a time then. But at $ 24.00 a quart it is still 60% of what Lesco wants to sell it for. Thanks again for turning me on to that great price.

BTW Karl, Doesn't Gunsnroses picture look like the girl I just broke up if you put blond hair on her??

Ric
10-12-2009, 06:07 PM
I understand it breaks some surface tension. And NO it is not in my applicators manual (using dish soap). What about any problems sudsing up in the tank?

Volman

Not until your tank level drop below the agitator. Sudsing needs air to foam up. Air suction leaks will cause tanks to foam up. One of the ways I get around foaming is to refill my tank before it runs dry. However filling the tank with fresh water can cause some sudsing which I have never found to be an issue. I like Dish Soap and use it with just about every thing. But my rate 0.25 % of my final mix. That is a 1/2 gallon soap per 200 gallons.


Brian

Please feel free to go after her. I am sure your wife won't mind.:) But I will warn you she fits the Blond stereotype perfect.

ArizPestWeed
10-13-2009, 12:44 AM
Treating bugs with soapy water suffocates them , too .
You need to really soak 'em pretty well for this to happen .
Kills 'em quick

Ric
10-13-2009, 10:03 AM
Treating bugs with soapy water suffocates them , too .
You need to really soak 'em pretty well for this to happen .
Kills 'em quick

Good Point Air Head

Fact is a heavy rain will suppress Chinch bugs. But for soap to work best you need a 1 to 2% solution as well as lots of water. But the point has been made many times that for good insect control large volumes of mixed spray work best. Granules also require watering in and the more water the better. Watered in and watered down are two different things.

roadhawk
11-06-2009, 03:28 PM
I've read lots of good info about fire ants so far on this site (as well as tons of other subjects) in the various threads, and http://fireant.tamu.edu/ has a nice listing of the various control products, but one thing I haven't come across yet is what got me looking here in the first place with blisters on my hand.

I go out to work on something and there's a nice big bed of those critters right in the way. I want them gone NOW so that I can keep on working. I don't want to wait or do something else.

Advion Pro version seems to be the quickest I've found stopping foraging in 12-48 hours with 90% control in 3 days. That's too long if I need to do work there NOW.

Is there something better than gasoline with its fire, biological, legal, etc hazards that I'm missing? For this usage it wouldn't have to totally annihilate them, just put them down hard enough to get the work done and without them just popping up from anther spot in 1/2 hour or whatever. I can go back later to do the long-term kill treatments.

Is the soapy water method going to be the best answer?

Ric
11-06-2009, 04:23 PM
roadhawk

About the fastest and easies Insecticide to use for spot treatment is ORTHENE. You can find it at all the Big Box stores that have garden supplies. It comes in a Black plastic bottle with a Yellow Cap. It even says Fire Ant control on the bottle.

When first open it there will be a Paper Seal. DO NOT TAKE THE SEAL OFF. Punch a hole with an Ice Pick Two holes at most. Now use the Black Bottle like a Salt shaker right on top of the mound. Only apply less than a teaspoon and wait about 15 minutes before going back to that area to work. Put the cap back on for safe keeping until the next time. With Orthene you get quicker results by applying it on top of the mound. For some reason Fire Ants take the Orthene down to the queen. BTW Orthene has a bad sink to it.

gregory
11-07-2009, 09:58 AM
like i have told you many times ric your fire control plan is great.it worked great all season last year didn't have one problem with fire ants all rainy season and it is cheaper then top choice......

Think Green
11-07-2009, 05:22 PM
Wow,
This thread went from a simple question.........to a debate,.......then to a blood lust for the jugular.
I for one agree with ric, on the prospect of knowledge in what you are dealing with. The terms Monogyne and Polygyne are the reference to how many queen's are present within the colony.
I have been away from this forum for a few weeks as the rains have kept us in boats here in the delta of Arkansas.....!! Knowing how the ant feeds, breeds, and takes care of the Queen(s) will aid you in their control. Take into consideration the weather, temperature, and moisture. The time of the season will either slow or hasten their control. The hives may be deeper or shallower thus making complete control a trial.
Liquids are better considering, we have used the dry commercial baits with little or no results. There is something about the Orthene that Ric states, that will drive the Ant to bring it back to the colony and to the queen(s).
There is nothing wrong with raising the BAR on this forum, as long as the bar doesn't hit the majority in the forehead!!!!!!!