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View Full Version : I need the STIHL Service Manual for BR500-600 blower --STIHL 4180 manual "i think"


jlbf0786
10-12-2009, 05:30 PM
I'm having trouble out of a BR550 blower, I bought a 550 and 600 from a fella last wk, and i'm pretty sure the BR550 needs the valves set.. its not a carb problem.

I took a look at the valves, but im not going to mess w/ it before getting the proper setting requirements.

If anyone has access to the STIHL Service Manual for these machines please send me a link or file. (i think its the Stihl 4180 service manual)-but im not sure.

Preciate it,

j. barringer
charlotte nc

mnms0562000
10-12-2009, 06:59 PM
How old is the machine? Is it very hard to turn over?

jlbf0786
10-12-2009, 07:59 PM
I think its about 2-1/2 yrs old, its not hard to turn over though.
It ran earlier, but it acted almost like the throttle wasnt adjusted tight enough to keep the rpm's up. but the throttle wasnt the issue, i screwed the Throttle (T) in turn by turn and it didnt raise the RPM's much-"if any"

I know the carb is clean, i set the H/L needles as follows:
H= 3-1/2 turns
L= 2 turns
the throttle had no impact on it wether it was turned in all the way or not.. so thats what got me thinking it was the Valves.

any ideas???

mnms0562000
10-12-2009, 09:07 PM
I'll check the manuals we have at work tomorrow and let you know what I find. I know stihl has been having issues with the BR550 and 600 blowers.

Also, have you tried adjusting the throttle on the blower tube?

jlbf0786
10-12-2009, 09:24 PM
mnms0562000,

I appreciate it!

Yeah, I checked the throttle linkage after i checked the carb settings..
it was good to go.
It was running poor the day i bought the 2 blowers, the 600 runs great but this 550 is having some issues.

but i feel like ive checked about everything that can be checked that would cause this issue.. (besides gauging the valves that is!) i know you have to reset the valves about every 100-150 hrs. and i bet this unit has atleast that amt. on it and then some.

ed2hess
10-12-2009, 10:19 PM
Just search this forum for "BR600" there is a lot of info in adjusting those valves.

mowerknower
10-12-2009, 10:22 PM
Is it running steady at full throttle but just doesnt seem to run fast enough? If so, you might want to try a new tip on the blower tube. If the tube wears out and is too big the blower will not get full rpms

jlbf0786
10-13-2009, 10:03 PM
I cant figure it out at this point...
I found the proper valve settings online, set the valves using a modified feeler guage i made..(just cut the feeler guage to fit under the rocker arm)

and its still running like crap..

any input would be really appreciated!


thanks

jb
charlotte nc

jlbf0786
10-15-2009, 09:01 PM
I set the valves w/ one of the Stihl guages, didnt help anything!

When i got it, the spark plug wire was cut off where the boot attaches..
so i spliced another wire/boot to the wire.

I checked it w/ an ignition light, seems to be getting fire fine.

ed2hess
10-15-2009, 10:44 PM
I am a two stroke guy but I'll bump you along. On two stroke you would check to be sure the crank seals are okay ...in place. I would run a test carb on the unit but I guess both of yours aren't working? Pull the gas lines and suck on line to be sure it is getting gas. I guess the valves may not be seating...build-up on them maybe.

jlbf0786
10-16-2009, 09:19 PM
bumpity bump bump!

need'n some help!

mowerknower
10-16-2009, 10:09 PM
could you be a little more specific with how its running. Have you done a cylinder leakdown test yet. If the previous owner ran crappy oil there is a good chance that the exhaust valve is shot. You could also check flywheel key. Have you pulled the carb? Ive seen guys pull the carbs and then put it back on without hooking up the impule tube, it will run but run poor.

ed2hess
10-16-2009, 10:54 PM
Do a compression check to see if the valves are holding. Then do a leak test if compression test is okay. Leaks can be found by running the unit and spraying carb cleaner around the crank shaft, the head and the carb gaskets.

mowerknower
10-16-2009, 11:12 PM
Do a compression check to see if the valves are holding. Then do a leak test if compression test is okay. Leaks can be found by running the unit and spraying carb cleaner around the crank shaft, the head and the carb gaskets.
\
Yeah thats the best test, not.

mowerknower
10-16-2009, 11:13 PM
Leaks can be found by running the unit and spraying carb cleaner around the crank shaft, the head and the carb gaskets.[/QUOTE]
\
Yeah thats the best test, not.
That will just tell you if theres is a vacuum leak not a presure leak

LIBERTYLANDSCAPING
10-16-2009, 11:51 PM
This one will throw ya for a loop....

Make sure the gap between ignition coil & flywheel is not to great. The coil should be very close to flywheel. If it is to wide of a gap, it can have issues idling, hard starts, low rpm, lack of power. :usflag:

jlbf0786
10-17-2009, 12:21 AM
Do a compression check to see if the valves are holding. Then do a leak test if compression test is okay. Leaks can be found by running the unit and spraying carb cleaner around the crank shaft, the head and the carb gaskets.

I dont have a compression test kit on hand, I went to Harbor Frieht today and never thought about it. (probably could've gotten it cheap)

Anyway, its not cranking at all! - I hooked up a spark tester and its getting fire.. but I now think its an issue w/ the fuel getting to the carb!

I put a new fuel filter on, but i went to reinstall the plastic groment that the lines come from and the lip broke, I will get a new one tomorrow and let yall know if was the issue.
And if it starts up then i'll see how good of a job i done on the valves.

And i did check the spacing between the coil and flywheel, its supposed to be .008" so thats what i set it at.

I am getting really fed up w/ even messing with this blower, its really not worth it to be honest!

jlbf0786
10-17-2009, 12:28 AM
Have any of you ever made your own compression test kits?

jlbf0786
10-23-2009, 05:26 PM
I finally got the BR550 running, now its not wanting to idle correctly.

I did adjust the carb to the factory "fine tuning" settings of:
H= 3-1/2
L= 2

The idle adjustment screw can be all the way in and it doesnt make much of a difference, it still doesnt want to idle correctly.. it wants to cut off.

Im not sure if it could be the valve adjustments i made, but i did it to spec. using the Stihl vavle adjustment guage.

Anyone have any ideas on this?

topsites
10-24-2009, 01:44 AM
Here's where to find your manual, not going to walk you through it:
http://www.stihlusa.com/

Have any of you ever made your own compression test kits?

Golly, a silly test gauge thing is like $5 or $10 at the store...

jlbf0786
10-24-2009, 02:26 AM
Topsites,
You can't get a Stihl Service/Shop Manual through Stihl's website.
the only way you can get one is from a dealer!

RonAyersMotorsports
10-27-2009, 01:23 PM
Topsites,
You can't get a Stihl Service/Shop Manual through Stihl's website.
the only way you can get one is from a dealer!

That's correct and they are only about $8.00 from the dealer. So save yourself time and buy one.

ed2hess
10-30-2009, 10:23 PM
I dont have a compression test kit on hand, I went to Harbor Frieht today and never thought about it. (probably could've gotten it cheap)

Anyway, its not cranking at all! - I hooked up a spark tester and its getting fire.. but I now think its an issue w/ the fuel getting to the carb!

I put a new fuel filter on, but i went to reinstall the plastic groment that the lines come from and the lip broke, I will get a new one tomorrow and let yall know if was the issue.
And if it starts up then i'll see how good of a job i done on the valves.

And i did check the spacing between the coil and flywheel, its supposed to be .008" so thats what i set it at.

I am getting really fed up w/ even messing with this blower, its really not worth it to be honest!
Compression testers can be found at autozone and cheap. Not likely the problem unless valves aren't closing all the way. You test the unit for not getting fuel by spraying a shot of quick start in. If it starts then you are correct you got a fuel delivery problem. That obvously can be carb or an internal leak in the engine(hence a leak tester). Units with valves pose a more complicated problem I think. A echo will not start if one of crankshaft seals are leaking bad. The can be checked by looking for oil/dust on both sides. Easy to see on echo without pulling a lot of thigns off.

ed2hess
10-30-2009, 10:27 PM
Leaks can be found by running the unit and spraying carb cleaner around the crank shaft, the head and the carb gaskets.
\
Yeah thats the best test, not.
That will just tell you if theres is a vacuum leak not a presure leak[/QUOTE]

Okay I used the wrong term..........it will tell you if you got a vac problem. Thanks for correcting me. But in this case the unit won't run so he would need to do a vac test.