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MowinginEureka
10-13-2009, 05:00 PM
Hi. I need to repaint the bottom of my Honda powered Toro Proline mower and repaint the bottom of my HRC216 Honda mower. I dont really care about the color as I am just painting under the mower deck. What kind of paint should I use? I need something as smooth(durable would be nice too) as possible, we get super bad rain here and everything clogs like every 20 feet of mowing no matter what. I also have a lot of dings and marks in the bottom of my Toro due to rocks and other stuff that gets run over, should I fill these in with some sort of bondo or JB weld and paint over them? Thanks!

Cleve
10-13-2009, 06:28 PM
I kinda think that you won't be able to find anything that will really work well.
I'm sure the Honda has an aluminum deck and anything you put will be gone after cutting a few yards. Same for the Toro deck even though it is steel.
A few years ago I tried a couple of things during the season when the grass is fairly new or just damp.
After cleaning the deck well I sprayed a coat of plain silicone spray on it. Seemed to work for a while. Can also try simple vegetable spray (same as used in cooking).
I think even a heavy duty epoxy coating would only last a short time with everything picked up by the blades hitting it.

Ruben Rocha
10-13-2009, 06:34 PM
HUH???
In Florida nothing lasts on the underside of the deck. It stays bright and shiny when the grass is dry.
Some people use fluid film to help mitigate grass from sticking to the deck but it does not last long in Florida from what I can tell.
I just keep scraping the deck when it is wet til the season drys out.
As far as dings I think you are wasting your time trying to fill them.

Restrorob
10-13-2009, 07:31 PM
Waste of time/paint, The under side of any deck is nothing more than a sand blaster. How much paint stays on anything put inside a blast cabinet ?

scooby074
10-13-2009, 10:49 PM
Im not a commercial guy, but ive had really good luck with POR15 under mower decks. Clean it well (pressure wash and scrape) then 2 coats of POR.

grasshog08
10-13-2009, 11:52 PM
try the rubberized car undercoating!
Posted via Mobile Device

MowinginEureka
10-14-2009, 02:54 AM
Ended up just getting some tractor paint. Pressure washed, hand cleaned, used a wire brush on a drill for the corners, and then used 180 grit to get a good surface. Then I primed. Currently the first coat of paint is drying, tomorrow goes on the second coat. The stock paint on my mowers usually last about 6 months if you clean it enough. I'm going to go buy a pressure washer later this week to keep them in better shape. We shall see!

topsites
10-14-2009, 04:08 AM
I wouldn't repaint them either.

GraZHopA
10-14-2009, 12:52 PM
I will have to agree with some of the others. It seems like a waste of time to paint the underneath of a deck. However, it is your deck and if you feel the need I say go for it! If you need to choose another color my vote is for GREEN! :laugh:

Cleve
10-14-2009, 02:32 PM
I will have to agree with some of the others. It seems like a waste of time to paint the underneath of a deck. However, it is your deck and if you feel the need I say go for it! If you need to choose another color my vote is for GREEN! :laugh:

No matter what color he paints it, I got a feeling it will end up GREEN anyway.

Ruben Rocha
10-14-2009, 03:12 PM
You go fella but by the second cut on the mower I think you will find most all of your work was for nothing.
Nothing will make the under deck smoother than the sand that eats the metal away after a couple of years.
Granted it is important to keep it clean and slick but????

MowinginEureka
10-15-2009, 03:16 PM
It is odd. I had another thread asking about what to do to make my mower clog less. In that thread I had a couple different people agreeing with me that I should paint the bottom of the deck. I'm hoping it will be easier to clean as long as it stays clean and maybe gets a fresh coat of paint every now and then. At the very least it's a rust inhibitor here. Seawater and lawnmowers don't mix.

Ruben Rocha
10-15-2009, 03:25 PM
If you use the mower on a regular basis you will hardly ever see any rust.
The sand will take care of that.
If you are trying to reduce clumping then that is another story.
Trying to keep a slick surface is what the posts were about. Some people say fluid film,some say cooking no stick spray, and many other methods such as there is a no stick paint that tractor supply sells.
What I am saying is for the effort it takes you will do just as well to just buy a small paint scraper and clean the deck with it till the wet season is over.

magnetman
10-15-2009, 05:25 PM
Painting under mower decks can be done with success but a product is needed that wonít chip easily and will remain flexible over time. Traditional oil base paints continue to harden and become more brittle over time which leads to chipping, cracking, peeling, not to mention rusting so therefore useless.

Our company makes a product that has been used extensively to coat under mowers and it is probably the No. 1 use for the product in the AG industry. It also finds wide use by municipalities for corrosion protection on snow and ice removal equipment.

Chassis Saverô is a single component moisture cure urethane that cures with a combination of hardness and incredible flexibility. The product is so flexible that it can be coated on a thin metal test panel and folded years later like a sheet of paper without cracking. Upon initial inspection of the cured coating, many people mistake the finish for powder coating or a baked enamel.

Iím posting a site link below. Chassis Saver is sold by many automotive paint stores and some auto parts stores. A Dealer List is on the web site. If a dealer in not found in your area, product can be ordered directly thru Toll Free phone # on the site

Someone mentioned POR15. Chassis Saver is similar chemistry and considered the high performance alternate to POR @ 45% lower cost.

Anyone interested, please feel free to contact me for help or with any technical questions.

Chassis Saver comes in 4 colors/finishes. I recommend either gloss black or silver for mower decks.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

Regards
magnetman

MowinginEureka
10-15-2009, 07:25 PM
Bookmarked the website. I'll take a look at it later, especially if this paint doesn't last very long. True, as they are used on a regular basis they do not see much rust, but, I do not like rust. I use an old edger blade to scrape the deck with. I'm trying to figure out what kind of paint they used in the first place. It seems like almost an automotive type paint. Anyone know? Thanks for all the help. I have fluid film...didn't notice a difference. Does it need repeated applications?

magnetman
10-18-2009, 12:48 AM
Bookmarked the website. I'll take a look at it later, especially if this paint doesn't last very long. True, as they are used on a regular basis they do not see much rust, but, I do not like rust. I use an old edger blade to scrape the deck with. I'm trying to figure out what kind of paint they used in the first place. It seems like almost an automotive type paint. Anyone know? Thanks for all the help. I have fluid film...didn't notice a difference. Does it need repeated applications?

Most small and mid size equipment makers are still using a general purpose industrial enamel. Some may use better, perhaps a lower cost automotive urethane and some bigger companies have adopted powder coatings but it depends on the size of the equipment.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/Monstaliner/images/mp.com_logo_long-250x32.jpg
www.magnetpaints.com

Restrorob
10-18-2009, 10:59 AM
Our company makes a product that has been used extensively to coat under mowers and it is probably the No. 1 use for the product in the AG industry.


I was going to leave this alone but since it's back up top I have a question about this product.


What's the life span of this product under a mower deck ?

In other words, How long after applying before the first small sign of deck metal showing through this product ?


Thanks

scooby074
10-18-2009, 11:49 AM
magnet: You say your product is superior to POR. In what way is it better? Living near salt i use a fair bit of POR. If yours is better , and cheaper, then i may pick some up next time i need some outdoor paint ( unfortunately i checked your website and the nearest store that sells it is 200 miles away but POR is local so i dont know)

magnetman
10-18-2009, 11:54 AM
I was going to leave this alone but since it's back up top I have a question about this product.

What's the life span of this product under a mower deck ?

In other words, How long after applying before the first small sign of deck metal showing through this product ?

Thanks

It really depends on how much abrasive material and rocks get thrown at it before it starts to deteriorate.
I don't have a mower personally to coat or I'd have more info. What I do know is what people have
told me but I have not asked your question of them.

Do you have a mower deck you would like to test it on?

http://www.magnetpaints.com/images/got_rust+3_cans.jpg
http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

magnetman
10-18-2009, 11:59 AM
magnet: You say your product is superior to POR. In what way is it better? Living near salt i use a fair bit of POR. If yours is better , and cheaper, then i may pick some up next time i need some outdoor paint ( unfortunately i checked your website and the nearest store that sells it is 200 miles away but POR is local so i dont know)

Scooby I have new Canada dealers to list later this coming week and next. Check the site again and let me know if you find something or not.

Regards
Eric

Jason Rose
10-18-2009, 12:23 PM
Uhhh, for one, forget the paint under the deck, no matter what you use it's just going to wear off down to shiney smooth metal.

I've used the chassis saver magnet "paint" and can tell you, it dosn't work. $85 for a gallon, used to paint the inside of my dump bed. Prepped the bare (new) metal and the previously painted metal very much as per the instructions. The crap was peeling off in sheets in 6 months. I ended up having to strip it all off with a grinder stripper disk and went back with regular primer and paint.

I had high hopes for the chassis saver product... Metal in a dump bed that hauls gras clippings is VERY hard to keep from rusting. I keep the bed clean, and usually dump every day. The grass is very hard on metal. Every bed I've had I have to paint at least once per season inside, where the outside dosn't have any problems. I thought the chassis saver would bond better and not let rust form under it... wrong.

Restrorob
10-18-2009, 12:30 PM
Do you have a mower deck you would like to test it on?


Why sure, I would use my boss's new 60" Classic Dixie Chopper. He has 5 acres of thicker grass cover than myself with thinner sandy areas, He runs a low lift blade which I can only get high lifts for my ZTR. I would want to be fair in testing.....

After seeing Jason's post, Will I be wasting time ?

Jason Rose
10-18-2009, 12:39 PM
I forgot the other place I painted the chassis saver on... My snow plow blade on my ZTR was sitting there, so I wiped it clean and rolled it on there too. It totally peeled off, right back to the factory paint, in the snow. I could have used regular PAINT and it would have adhered much better... The instructions said it can be applied over existing paint, but yes, an "etched" surface is better. Like I said, I had both in my dump bed. The sides were new metal, and I used a wire wheel on the grinder to scuff them before application of the chassis saver.

If the stuff really needs to have the sirface prepped with a sand blaster to work, then it needs to say that on the instructions. I know that's the "prefered method" but most people don't have a blaster in their garage. It just didn't work for me, using the other prep methods that were given.

magnetman
10-18-2009, 12:40 PM
Why sure, I would use my boss's new 60" Classic Dixie Chopper. He has 5 acres of thicker grass cover than myself with thinner sandy areas, He runs a low lift blade which I can only get high lifts for my ZTR. I would want to be fair in testing.....

After seeing Jason's post, Will I be wasting time ?

If Jason simply applied Chassis Saver to bare smooth mew metal, I would not expect any results other than what he described.

Hey JASON! You said you followed our directions? Please tell me the truth, what you did before applying the product.

Eric

Jason Rose
10-18-2009, 12:46 PM
If Jason simply applied Chassis Saver to bare smooth mew metal, I would not expect any results other than what he described.

Hey JASON! You said you followed our directions? Please tell me the truth, what you did before applying the product.

Eric

Posted that... I used a wire wheel on a grinder to etch the surface. It's been about 4 years ago now, so forgive me if I misquote the actual instructions, but I recall that being acceptable. I wire wheeled both the bare new steel and the painted diamond tread of the flatbed. I did apply the chassis saver to some areas that were not etched, and it peeled up there just as it did where I had used the wire wheel. I didn't skimp either on the wirewheel. I spent a lot of time on that project, because I expected it to last, and didn't want to mess it up because it was supposed to be a "permanent" solution.

I applied it with a roller, which was also listed on the instructions as being ok. I'm sure a spray gun would have been better though, but I was told that if I did that the gun would be trash as there's no way to remove the stuff after it cures even a little.

Yes I used, whatever it called for, to strip any oil off the metal. I remember I bought a thinner that was the same brand. I bought the stuff from a local auto paint shop.

magnetman
10-18-2009, 01:41 PM
Chassis Saver is a urethane which is known to have poor adhesion to smooth surfaces. The reason it works so well to stop rust is because it's near impossible to chip or crack. As long as you can get it to stick to your surface, it really does stop rust by preventing oxygen and moisture getting to the metal.

Our directions say that sandblasting is optimal but if blasting can not be done to use coarse abrasive to rough up the metal. Wire wheeling does not abrade metal well enough, it burnishes it. A grinder would have been a better choice.

Chassis Saver really sticks best to existing rust by penetrating the rust and forming a mechanical bond.

Also, applying this product over an old paint by just "wiping clean" is a complete waste of time especially when it's a costly product.

This conversation got dragged completely off topic when we were talking about mower decks and now inside a dump body.

Can someone educate me better: What condition does the underside of a mower deck get to when used regularly?

Ronniecoleman
10-18-2009, 07:06 PM
Can someone educate me better: What condition does the underside of a mower deck get to when used regularly?

Under commercial use a mower decks paint does not last more than a couple of weeks. What most people are looking for is a product that prevent grass buildup. Rust is not a problem for me, because most of the time the sand in the soil keeps the decks clean. The main clogging times for me are with cool season weeds in early spring and summer time wet yards with alot of crabgrass. So my question to you is does the product last more than two weeks under a deck and does it prevent grass buildup.

Restrorob
10-18-2009, 07:29 PM
does the product last more than two weeks under a deck and does it prevent grass buildup.


This question has already been asked.....


It really depends on how much abrasive material and rocks get thrown at it before it starts to deteriorate.
I don't have a mower personally to coat or I'd have more info. What I do know is what people have
told me but I have not asked your question of them.


Can someone educate me better: What condition does the underside of a mower deck get to when used regularly?


Take any piece of painted steel/metal and put it in a sand blasting cabinet with fine sand, Hold the gun 4 or 5 inches away and start blasting.....

magnetman
10-18-2009, 07:39 PM
Under commercial use a mower decks paint does not last more than a couple of weeks. What most people are looking for is a product that prevent grass buildup. Rust is not a problem for me, because most of the time the sand in the soil keeps the decks clean. The main clogging times for me are with cool season weeds in early spring and summer time wet yards with alot of crabgrass. So my question to you is does the product last more than two weeks under a deck and does it prevent grass buildup.

I understand and it makes sense. My company mfgs the product and I have only heard from people who have sworn that it works under mower decks.
For how long, I don't know.

When cured, Chassis Saver is hard as a rock but flexible as well. It is very difficult to chip the stuff. At the same time, I can see from the feel of the surface that grass is going to have a hard time sticking.

I would like to find out for sure. I want to give FREE samples to 6 people who want to try it for this purpose. Please... I need photos of before and after.

Here are the available finishes. I like the silver because it has a lot of aluminum flake and it sticks to metal best. You could topcoat it with the gloss black or leave it alone.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/images/panels.jpg

Appx how many sq feet exists under the decks of the average commercial machine?

MowinginEureka
10-18-2009, 08:01 PM
I will bite on that. I'll take some paint, I have a riding mower that needs the bottom of the deck painted. It's a walker mower. The paint I applied to my walk behind mowers seems to stick well after a days worth of mowing, but unfortunately there was a rock in some grass and it took chunks of my paint (and blades) with it. Which is understandable with any paint. Otherwise it seems to hold up ok. The paint is absorbing the green which I also understand because its not a urethane or acrylic I think...its just spray paint. As long as I keep it clean it will help during these winter months of intense wet grass. I don't expect much from rattle can paint. Maybe the magnet paint will fare better? I do have a camera and can take pictures. I can use sand paper, a grinder, or a wire wheel to sand and abrade the metal before painting. But, I do not have access to a sand blaster. Let me know!

dwb-mows
10-18-2009, 08:47 PM
Philadelphia resins 2 part epoxy rust inhibitive primer no need to top coat. get a couple of good coats on then just touch up when chipped.

Restrorob
10-18-2009, 09:16 PM
Appx how many sq feet exists under the decks of the average commercial machine?


OK, I will give this product a test and review.

Pics before and during installation of product then after testing.

But, There's no way I can sand blast a brand new machine. I will use my ZTR in which I don't mind a little pre-mature blasting, A quick measurement 54" long-27" wide with 4" sides plus a baffle. You can do the math part.....

magnetman
10-18-2009, 10:11 PM
Philadelphia resins 2 part epoxy rust inhibitive primer no need to top coat. get a couple of good coats on then just touch up when chipped.

Epoxies will definitely work and have great adhesion but they are very hard and brittle. Chipping will be more than urethane.

magnetman
10-18-2009, 10:14 PM
Help anyone, How do you PM on here?

Restrorob
10-18-2009, 10:45 PM
Eric,

I don't think you can PM yet, Take a look at this; http://www.lawnsite.com/showpost.php?p=2130737&postcount=2


You may need to chew the fat a little longer before their enabled.....

scooby074
10-19-2009, 02:37 AM
Eric: I would have loved to give it a try, but my deck is POR'd:weightlifter: Im still curious about how your product differs from POR besides being cheaper (which in itself isnt bad). Is there a chemical difference? There both Urethane based paints and both experience sun fading.

Ronniecoleman
10-19-2009, 10:10 AM
I would be willing to test your product as well, once your able to pm we can discuss contact info.

All_Toro_4ME
10-19-2009, 11:26 AM
I'll jump aboard and take the plunge to test as well. We've had a very wet season here and the underside of the decks definately show it. I'll post before and after pics as well.

marksc
10-22-2009, 10:00 AM
I'll take some of that action. I have been looking for a viable solution for my Scag. I was seriosly concidering POR15 but if this equivelent or better I would like to try it.Does this leave a smooth finish or will you see brush strokes. The only problem I see is that you won't get feedback from us Northern guys till spring, but it will make a great winter project.

EcoGreen Services
10-22-2009, 10:31 AM
I've had good luck with 3M rubberized undercoating as long as you spray it really wet so you don't get a rough finish.. The Bedliner touchup spray bombs have also worked well for me.

I did one with Nason single stage urethane once just because I had some left over in the gun from painting a truck.. Gave it a quick sandblast and put on 4 coats allowing each to flash well.. The nice smooth high gloss finish really helped with wet clumping but didnt last as long as the other 2 products

scooby074
10-22-2009, 10:14 PM
I'll take some of that action. I have been looking for a viable solution for my Scag. I was seriosly concidering POR15 but if this equivelent or better I would like to try it.Does this leave a smooth finish or will you see brush strokes. The only problem I see is that you won't get feedback from us Northern guys till spring, but it will make a great winter project.

For a smooth finish, use a foam brush. Por at least will self level a bit

Jason Rose
10-22-2009, 11:11 PM
What I did I used both a roller and a brush. Yes, you end up seeing brush strokes, and with the roller it leaves little air bubbles that break in the surface.

In my opinion, for the guys that want to take the time to try the Chassis saver. If you can't sand blast what you are going to coat, to insure adheision, don't bother trying it.

marksc
10-23-2009, 09:04 AM
What I did I used both a roller and a brush. Yes, you end up seeing brush strokes, and with the roller it leaves little air bubbles that break in the surface.

In my opinion, for the guys that want to take the time to try the Chassis saver. If you can't sand blast what you are going to coat, to insure adheision, don't bother trying it.

I was planning on a wire wheel for any buildup and then flexible sandpaper on a grinder for any corrosion then 100 grit for the final scuff. As with any finish it's all about the prep. Then after the product has set mirror it up with 1500 grit and apply a glaze. I am hoping this will cut down on buildup in spring as well as protect deck from corrosion. Also foam brush sounds like a good applicator to reduce streaks.

budgetlandscape
10-28-2009, 09:42 PM
Prep work is pretty simple on bare metal of any type- use an abrasive (something with the word "sand" in it, not a wire wheel, they actually create a pattern of smooth surfaces that may look rough, but have no porosity to create adhesion) to open up the surface and remove solid particulates. Then go over the whole area with a solvent such as laquer thinner, wax and grease remover, mineral spirits etc to clean the oils and moisture out of the metal. Then use a good primer - spend a little money here because this is what determines whether or not the coating will adhere to the base metal. I prefer epoxy primer - the worse it smells, the better it works in my experience. let it dry per instructions on the container, then wipe it off with a tack rag to remove all the things in the air that stuck to it during the drying process. After that choose a topcoat based on what your needs are; in this case something slick and durable. My choice? John Deere brand Slip Plate, an enamal paint containing graphite that makes for a super slick finish. They use this stuff in grain handling equipment where it needs to slide out completely everytime. Shop at your local auto body store, not quallmart for these supplies and you will find freindly people that know their stuff.

ianmaggy
10-31-2009, 10:20 PM
I understand and it makes sense. My company mfgs the product and I have only heard from people who have sworn that it works under mower decks.
For how long, I don't know.

When cured, Chassis Saver is hard as a rock but flexible as well. It is very difficult to chip the stuff. At the same time, I can see from the feel of the surface that grass is going to have a hard time sticking.

I would like to find out for sure. I want to give FREE samples to 6 people who want to try it for this purpose. Please... I need photos of before and after.

Here are the available finishes. I like the silver because it has a lot of aluminum flake and it sticks to metal best. You could topcoat it with the gloss black or leave it alone.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/images/panels.jpg

Appx how many sq feet exists under the decks of the average commercial machine?
I'd be willing to give it a try. It would be used on a deck with rust and leftovers of the original paint. I could provide detailed pictures of the process. It would be a winter project since I live in Canada. Final results could be known next may. I would use no sandblast and no spray gun since it is what most people will do.

Rough mower size 49"X 30" X 4" deep.