Mainline Leak Conundrum

[EagleLandscape]

I have a site that should be using about $500 a month in irrigation water during the summer months. The installation was poor, and we seem to have a large mainline break about once a month, pushing the water bill to $2000+ monthly. We notice the break, and shut it off asap, but still a big hit to the customer.

Backflow is several hundred feet away from controller. System has a smartline in it, with no master valve.

Could I just use an Add a zone and do a master valve. is there a standalone flow meter with shut off?

2.5" mainline.

[mdlwn1]

Maybe a little off topic, but what is the water source? I have just been through 2 years of the same breaks only to finally pin it down on pressure fluctuation and a bit of air hammer making a bad install worse.

[EagleLandscape]

Domestic city water.

Pressure is probably an issue that makes the problems bigger.

The backflow is up at the street, and the property slopes downhill, to approximately a drop in elevation of 20-35' ft. Enough to add alot more pressure to the fittings down hill. Surprisingly, the majority of the breaks have been over tightened MA on the inlet side of the valve for the most part. I think we have had 4-6 breaks over the summer that I can recall.

[Mike Leary]

we seem to have a large mainline break about once a month, pushing the water bill to $2000+ monthly. We notice the break, and shut it off asap, but still a big hit to the customer

I don't get the "once a month" deal.

[EagleLandscape]

locators?????

[Wet_Boots]

If the breaks are triggering a runaway flow, you might get use from a paddle switch

[EagleLandscape]

link por favor? and information about it.

we take care of 5 properties from this owner, i really want to make sure I solve the problem (runaway flows and not noticing until the waterbill is run up) the first time around.

[Wet_Boots]

McDonnell Miller (http://www.mcdonnellmiller.com/MM-General-Catalog.asp) is one major manufacturer of the switches, and I think some of them are tweakable for triggering flow. But if you can get a cable from the controller to the backflow preventer, you might have a flow meter communicate with the controller, and that would be far more accurate. And besides, that would allow for a master valve, which sounds like it's been "paid for" already, with water wastage.

[mitchgo]

yes you can use Add-A-Zone for a master valve.
Tap off your nearest valve box to your back flow preventor .

This is an easy fix to something you didn't do

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

I would steal a wire for the master and use the add a zone on two valves myself John.

[EagleLandscape]

So an Add-A-Zone can run 2 signals at the same time?

IE: master valve and zone 5 running at the same time.. etc?

[DanaMac]

I don't get the "once a month" deal.

Well Mike, I would assume that with you being married for so long, you would have figured that out by now. :)

See, the way a female body works is like this.................... Oh never mind, it would just complicate you :laugh:

[Without A Drought]

to piggy back fimco, can you marry two zones and free up a wire? and not have to use the add a zone.

[Wet_Boots]

Make it three valves, and add a flow meter. The master valve is not in the add-a-zone circuit. It gets a dedicated wire.

[1idejim]

what about the leak?

[mitchgo]

So an Add-A-Zone can run 2 signals at the same time?

IE: master valve and zone 5 running at the same time.. etc?

No,

From my understanding, a controller will always send power to the mastervalve/ pump port when another zone is being turned on unless the controller has the ability to turn on/ off that option.

So as long as you have it wired up correctly it should work

However, I agree with peter. Either using a zone valve for the add a zone to give yourself a dedicated line. Or if you have the ability to double two zones together for a spare wire.

Either case a master valve would be extremely beneficial to this system

[Wet_Boots]

what about the leak?What else? :p

http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:cslz8g1Bif2EhM:http://www.cyberbrands.com/pub/images/leakender_med.jpg

[Mike Leary]

Maybe it's under a tree.

[hoskm01]

Maybe it's under a tree.
Found one of those this year. Plagued the zone for at least 2 years. Luck only, that I found it.

Sounds like master valve is the best way to go. Can you piggy up two zones to free up that wire, at least at the first valve/box?

[Waterlogged]

I'm afraid I'm with Boots on this one. Run a wire for the master valve. I'd consider a pressure regulator, and do you know what velocities you are working with, and if so can you change them? With $1500.00 a month I would think you'd have lots of money to work with.

[AI Inc]

Found one of those this year. Plagued the zone for at least 2 years. Luck only, that I found it.

Sounds like master valve is the best way to go. Can you piggy up two zones to free up that wire, at least at the first valve/box?

Or possibly a second clock synchronized to run just the MV.

[EagleLandscape]

Depending on hydraulics, the best thing is to run two zones off the same wire, to free up another to insert a master valve.

I am concerned about doubling up (2) - 2" zones... we shall see.

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

Depending on hydraulics, the best thing is to run two zones off the same wire, to free up another to insert a master valve.

I am concerned about doubling up (2) - 2" zones... we shall see.

John use the add a zone on the two zone valves. Just don't try and do a master and a valve on the add a zone.

[Wet_Boots]

Ahhhh for the good old days, when you could use earth ground as the master valve 'wire'

[EagleLandscape]

John use the add a zone on the two zone valves. Just don't try and do a master and a valve on the add a zone.

good thinking my long lost texas friend. will do. good talking with you the other day!

[Wet_Boots]

Consider controlling three valves with the add-a-zone, if you can use the extra wire for a flow meter/sensor

[Mike Leary]

I'd always wondered how these guys work out.


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