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singular
10-13-2009, 07:49 PM
Hi all,

I just put down some Patch Master a couple days ago on a bare area in my yard about 100 square feet. I think I put it down too thick because the bag said it covers 300 square feet and I used the whole bag. I did not apply more than a half inch thick as the instructions say. So I am not sure where they get their estimate coverage from.

Anyway, my question is: How long will it take for the seed that has settled on the top of the mulch to work it's way down to the soil? And, would it help to put a thin layer of soil on the top?

Thanks for all of your help.

all the best,
Joe

Hoy landscaping
10-13-2009, 08:00 PM
i have no idea. but keep me posted. i would like to know the outcome

Whitey4
10-13-2009, 10:11 PM
PatchMaster is one of THE worst products on the market. I still can't believe Scotts sells it.

Rake it all out. Fill in (level) the holes) with some top soil. Buy the Scotts seeding soil. Put down the Scotts or Pennington top shlef sun and shade mix, and top dress with the Scotts starter soil. I failed to notice your location.... if you are in zone 6, forget it. Too late. Zone 7... maybe not too late, but it's close.

OH, and BTW, the rye will take about 7 days to sprout... the KGB will take a week longer.

singular
10-14-2009, 08:35 AM
Thanks for your reply Whitey4. Could you tell me why Patchmaster is such a bad product?

Also, do you think I would be better of leaving it, see what comes up, and then overseeding in the Spring? It's going to be raining all weekend and I do not have the time to do it now.

By the way, I live in Maryland.

all the best,
Joe

LushGreenLawn
10-14-2009, 09:15 AM
The seedd will germinate in the paper mulch, and the roots will grow down to the soil. The seed does not have to touch the soil.

I don't think its a bad product. Its fescue with a paper mulch. What's the difference between that, and buying seed and paper mulch from lesco?

I have used it in a pinch to fill a bare spot or two and it worked for me, just keep the paper moist.
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ron mexico75
10-14-2009, 09:28 AM
Keep it damp!!!! I would say 7 to 10 days and you should start to see tiny seedlings. Once they start, put a little more seed down. Spring is NOT the time to seed, now is your chance to get thick grass before that thin area is infested with weeds this spring and summer.

Besides, late winter/early spring is the time to put your pre- emerg down and the seed will not germinate in pre-emerg.

singular
10-14-2009, 10:27 AM
The seedd will germinate in the paper mulch, and the roots will grow down to the soil. The seed does not have to touch the soil.

I don't think its a bad product. Its fescue with a paper mulch. What's the difference between that, and buying seed and paper mulch from lesco?

I have used it in a pinch to fill a bare spot or two and it worked for me, just keep the paper moist.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your time.

singular
10-14-2009, 10:29 AM
Keep it damp!!!! I would say 7 to 10 days and you should start to see tiny seedlings. Once they start, put a little more seed down. Spring is NOT the time to seed, now is your chance to get thick grass before that thin area is infested with weeds this spring and summer.

Besides, late winter/early spring is the time to put your pre- emerg down and the seed will not germinate in pre-emerg.

Thanks for your reply. I have been keeping it damp at all times. I know the importance of not letting the product dry out.

david shumaker
10-14-2009, 08:14 PM
I think PatchMaster is a waste of money. You're paying for a little seed and mostly shredded newspaper. I carry a bucket of peat or compost mixed with seed for bare spots. I loosen up the bare spot and throw down my seed mixture. It's alot cheaper than PatchMaster.

Smallaxe
10-14-2009, 10:12 PM
Keep it damp!!!! I would say 7 to 10 days and you should start to see tiny seedlings. Once they start, put a little more seed down. Spring is NOT the time to seed, now is your chance to get thick grass before that thin area is infested with weeds this spring and summer.

Besides, late winter/early spring is the time to put your pre- emerg down and the seed will not germinate in pre-emerg.

Late winter/early spring is not the time to put down pre-m, in turf. It is the time to grow grass and make turf. The TGCL philosophy is on the way out... get with it...

Whitey4
10-15-2009, 01:23 AM
Thanks for your reply Whitey4. Could you tell me why Patchmaster is such a bad product?

Also, do you think I would be better of leaving it, see what comes up, and then overseeding in the Spring? It's going to be raining all weekend and I do not have the time to do it now.

By the way, I live in Maryland.

all the best,
Joe

I used to work for Scotts, and I've used every single product. It's newspaper with a little seed in it. First off, the color is grotesque. Secondly, the seed is imbedded in paper pulp. While it will germinate, it won't root in that, it needs soil, compost, peat... the Scotts stater soil is a pretty good product for spot repairs. It has some starter fertilizer in it too. All you need to to buy some seed to go along with it. Much better results.

You already used it... see what happens, but I think I might throw just a bit of peat on top of it. That might help with rooting some.

If you just want easy, and don't care about spending 4 times the money you need to, the new EZ seed product is foolproof for patch repairs. It will grow grass on concrete... of course, it would eventually die, but it would grow. If used on dirt, it's foolproof.

Seeding in the spring... if the lawn has a history of crabb grass problems... it's doable, but more expensive. Seed early, like March 30 in MD, and use a starter fertilizer that has Tupersan (trade name) or siduron (chemical name, same thing) when you seed. That will help control the crabb grass, but will allow the grass seed to germinate. Then, around the end of April, after the grass is growing, use a regular CB pre-emergent (which would also prevent grass seed for completing the germination process).