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americanlawn
10-13-2009, 07:03 PM
Here's a pic of my lawn. It's 635 feet deep & 135 feet wide. The front half is always treated with pre & fert, but the back half never gets treated except for broadleaves once a year.

The back half always gets tons of foxtail & some crabgrass (see how brown it is cuz the annual grassy weeds are going dormant - I realize this is my fault).

Any of you guys just apply "pre" with no fert? rscvp, thanks :waving:

p.s. That is a "burn pile" in the middle cuz we can burn here.

mdlwn1
10-13-2009, 07:14 PM
Yeah I have...but I usually will back it up with a fall fert. I mean if the sunlight hits the soil..than all your really doing is keeping things at bay for a little while. Not too sure what your saying really.

atouchofnature
10-13-2009, 07:51 PM
Yes, you can apply pre-emergent without fertilizer, but as mdlwn said, you aren't doing much to help the situation, other than holding weeds at bay for a little while.

I am assuming that frequency of mowing is your reason for not wanting the fertilizer. If that is the case, apply a fall fertilizer (which is more beneficial than spring fertilizer anyway). The fall fertilizer will help thicken your turf, without adding a lot of extra mowing.

If finances are your reason for not wanting the fertilizer, I would take the fall fertilizer instead of the pre-m, you would get more benefit per dollar spent.

RigglePLC
10-13-2009, 10:30 PM
Without fertilizer? Sure why not. Like Barricade 65 WP for instance. Or maybe Dimension 2.5 G.
http://www.dpwigley.com/Spring%20Valley%20Products_1.html

Or maybe Team Pro as a granular.

Smallaxe
10-13-2009, 11:04 PM
My question is - Why have annual grasses in your lawn to begin with? When do you over seed with real grass?

Grandview
10-14-2009, 06:42 AM
I would treat the entire yard. I do not use crabgrass control either. I fertilize 3-4 times and mow at 3 inches. Crabgrass is not a problem. It is cooler here also.

americanlawn
10-14-2009, 06:53 PM
Thanks everybody -- you all nailed it on the head. The Kentucky bluegrass (as well as other perennial grasses) grows pretty well around the perimeter of this backyard (protected by large trees), but the areas that get baked with hot sun "thin out", and the foxtail takes over by mid July.

I'll apply a winterizer fert in the open areas soon (cuz the perimeter areas don't need fert). Then I'll apply a preemergent next spring.

We're running into more & more (large properties) that don't really want much fert in the spring. I understand why, and we've treated several properties with liquid Dimension plus BWC (no fert) in the spring with a ride-on unit. But I figure on ordering some dry PRE with a little fert in it as well (so it spreads easier). One thing about dry preemergent products........they don't need to be watered in within 7 - 10 days.

Thanks for your input. :waving:

Smallaxe
10-14-2009, 08:49 PM
The pre-m is going to prevent anything fron growing in those dead spots?

mdlwn1
10-14-2009, 11:13 PM
A little off topic...but I havent spring fed in almost 20 years (except for new customers) If you hit it hard enough in the fall..you really dont have to in the spring. I come in right about when the seed stalks start to slow and that will usually last me until late August.

Smallaxe
10-15-2009, 09:46 AM
A little off topic...but I havent spring fed in almost 20 years (except for new customers) If you hit it hard enough in the fall..you really dont have to in the spring. I come in right about when the seed stalks start to slow and that will usually last me until late August.

A little further off topic perhaps, but just curious - Do you bag the clippings ,generally, or mulch them back in?